I don't see anything visually wrong with the board. Also, I don't know if it would help or not to reflow the arched contact points, but I'd put a meter on them before messing with that to see if you are getting voltage to those points. Still makes me wonder if the issue is with the wiring somehow, but would have to trace for those lights to the backbox to ensure no issues.

Getting beyond my troubleshooting skills, so could use the help of others here.

Is it a possibility that the certain diodes are bad on the board?

My electronics knowledge is limited, but I would think that would be unlikely. Do you have a multi-meter? If so, I think it is time to take some voltage readings to see if you can figure out if power is even getting to the sockets (or even the ends of the wires where connected to the circuit board).

Could be a diode. Could be those pins on that board need to be re-flowed. Looks for cracks in the solder.

You should do some simple continuity tests. Your meter should have a mode that beeps when you touch the probes together. Use that mode to touch the silver ring where the lamp holder contacts with the pin on the board plug that it should connect with (just following the traces on the board). Make sure each silver pad hits each pin. Then you'll know the board is good.

If you have a 6v power source you can wire it up to each socket through the pin plug (just trace to each solder pad for each lamp) and see if the lamps work there on the bench.

Do the same tracing with the wiring harness that plugs into the board and the ends that plug in to the backbox. You'll have to manually trace them or find in the schematic where they plug in, but the coloring should be obvious. Test each wire from one end to the other to make sure the wires are all intact.

If that all works then you look at what might be controlling each light, which is where I'd have to do more research, but usually some sort of transistor on the board.

I've come to the forum to ask for advise on diagnosing a few issues on my JP.
Several different problems, but all light related.
First one:
- At the feed T-Rex apron lights. When a game is started the top T bulb is not lit and the others, R-E-X bulbs are flashing. This should be opposite with the T bulb flashing and the R-E-X bulbs off until the proper shots are made to spell T-REX during gameplay.
Second:
-when game starts all the red & green targets on playfield are lit up. On about half of them, when they get hit, the bulb insert below dims and the light can be still seen in the insert flashing. The insert light should be off completely to show that shot was made.
Third:
The green & yellow power shed scoop lights are constantly flashing throughout gameplay. They should coordinate with the rules and light up according to when the scoop shot should be made.

Any advice would be appreciated on how to tackle these issues.
I've been watching the lights during gameplay, when a shot is hit and they are supposed to be off the light is still on and flashing. There seems to be added voltage to several bulb sockets throughout the playfield. Maybe bad diodes/resistors on the sockets?

I’ve been having some launch issues the last few days, and figured it was just the rubber tip coming loose again (I fixed several weeks ago). Then it hit me . . . why is there an old style rubber tip on this pin? Looked up in the manual, and of course it is not there. Removed it altogether and balls are launching perfectly again. I’m sure some owner up the line at some point wondered where the rubber tip was and put one on it.
CFB0E2E3-C964-4F6F-8C90-D73FE4B1BA3B.jpeg

Silly question but which chip on the sound board is the DSP one?

Sounds like all those issues are related. Something with the lamp matrix.

Are CN6 and CN7 connected correctly to the CPU board?

If you run that lamp tests shown on page 28 of the manual, do you see anything that makes sense, like some certain rows or columns working wrong in the individual lamp test?

Hey! Happy to join the club!
20190530_102100 (resized).jpg

Just uploaded a video to my YouTube channel that shows how to make your own vinyl decals. I used the JP decals that I created for my machine as my example. I might make these available to purchase in the future but thought you might be interested since its JP.

Hey Lonzo, Good video (btw, love your pin room and collection!) I would offer a few alternatives. FYI, by no means am I saying my way is better, just different and potentially more cost effective if someone doesn't want to invest in a laminator and/or laser printer.

1) Use a photo quality inkjet printer (ideally 6 color, but 4 color will do) which offers several benefits: 1) no heat is involved, so no issues with substrate, warping, misfeeds, paper separating, etc., 2) much more vivid colors verses laser, 3) a glossier finished print verses laser, 4) and often times easier/better color matching.

2) Instead of using a laminator, you can utilize adhesive gloss laminate that is applied cold and is readily available in rolls from Amazon (I can provide link if anyone is interested).

3) For cutting, instead of scissors I use a straight edge and razor knife, but my OCD requires perfectly straight lines (I also have a couple of tools for cutting rounded corners, punching circles, etc.)

Another option that I'm exploring is a die cutting machine like Cricut, Silhouette, Brother, etc. These units have the ability to precisely cut out decals (and many other things). At this point, I've not actually had my hands on one, so I still need to test to see if they are everything they are marketed to be.

Welcome, we are happy to have you! I see you needed something to break up the horror theme you have going. Then again, T-Rex and raptors are pretty horrifying.

Slightly more expensive at Marco. Not sure on shipping.

Thanks for the comments. You are ever in central Arkansas give me a shout and come play.
I understand that there are more ways to skin a cat and I am glad that you have a method that works for you. I will try and explain the reasoning behind some of my choices.
1. I find that laser offers more vivid colors than any of the inkjet printers I have used. I’m sure there are better ones out there though. I have also had some inkjet decals fade over time which I haven’t had with the laser. This might not be an issue with a higher quality ink. I also like the laser for water slide decals as you don’t have to clear them before you put them in water.
2. I have tried the self stick laminate and I just haven’t had good results from it. Maybe your brand is better than the stuff I have tried.
3. I also use other tools to cut when the decals are bigger. I probably should have mentioned that in the video. (Rookie mistake. Lol). I also use punches for holes etc. My vinyl cutter has a laser cutting option but I have not tried to use it to cut decals as I think it would be impossible to line something up that had been printed on another machine. I might try it sometime though.

Hope that made sense and I am always looking for tips to improve my work as well.

Well, for me it has a lot to do with pricing, can't afford NIB games anymore. But this one I had to have, much appreciated by the rest of the family who's not that into pins that beat the crap out of you almost every time.
Do you have a pinsound board for this one also?

Can someone check these wires for me? This is a lamp down in the bottom left hand corner (T-Rex side). Mine doesn't work and I've check it out with my DMM. I've got a new socket on order but a closer inspection of the wires has me wondering. It seems odd that both wires for that socket are coming from the same terminal.

IMG_1995 (resized).JPG

Absolutely on the Pinsound. I've slightly modified Endprodukt's orchestration (not much you can do to improve it), and his orchestration completely changes the game with the music and callouts from the actual movie.

If you want to get an idea of it, you can download the orchestration from http://pinsound-community.org and I'm happy to give you a .psrec file you can play via PinSound Studio on your computer.

That doesn't make sense how that is wired. I just put my pin back together, but if nobody else can provide a pic I can get you one later tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks. I mean, it seems a simple fix but that's often when I cause myself problems. I figure I'll take the wires off tonight and hook it up the way all the other circuits are wired. I'm pretty sure that isn't the original wiring anyway on that last socket.

I have over 20 years experience selling, supporting, and training on production digital CMYK & CMYK+ color laser printers/presses ranging from tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars. I'm not saying that you cannot get excellent results from such systems or even a few hundred dollar laser printer, but for home use applications the right affordable photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks and OEM premium papers outperforms laser from an image quality perspective (I'm currently partial to the Epson Photo XP series). OEM inks will keep their vibrancy just as long as toner based systems, and a 6 ink color system will offer a much broader color gamut than a 4 color laser system can produce. However, as you noted you cannot skimp. I find that third party inks and papers do not perform nearly as well as the OEM supplies (I've tried a multitude of non-OEM products over the years). When it comes right down to it, for the types of things we are making either technology is a solid choice as long as you choose a quality color printer and use quality supplies (e.g. ink, toner, substrate). For waterslide decals, I agree that laser is definitely the better choice as laser typically has a more solid toner density (i.e. wet ink is more transparent that solid particle toner). Fortunately, I own both a color inkjet (Epson XP-850) and a color laser (HP 3600N) printer so I use whichever one delivers the best results on a given application for me. Anyway, just my 2 cents on the topic.

Here is the laminate I use. It is great stuff that lays smooth and has a high gloss. I have sold literally hundreds of decals using it along with having it on standup targets that have taken abuse over 2 years now and they still look brand new: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759SV64G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
As you do, I apply prior to cutting and have to be careful as once it touches anything it is stuck for good. Cut it slightly oversized, lay it on top of the graphic by rolling it on from left to right, and while doing so use a felt edged squeegee to avoid any air bubbles, then a final squeegee over the entire surface for complete adhesion. Probably about the same effort as using a traditional laminating machine, but if all a person wants to do is make a few decals then they can do so without the expense of the laminator.

I'm really curious about the automatic cutters. I'm not a fan of Cricut's software as it is online only and requires a monthly subscription (I avoid reoccurring monthly services if at all possible). The Silhouette offers locally installed software, and both units have a feature called "Print and Cut". From what I can discern, you design your graphics in whatever application you like, export to a supported format (typically a JPEG - lossy, but you can always export with minimum compression), import into the cutter software, then manually and/or automatically generate the cut lines (these can even have bleeds if you like). You then print the image from the application which applies a registration mark on the page. When you put this into the cutter, it reads the registration mark and from there it knows the relative positioning of where the cuts need to be. For adhesive vinyl, it can even just score the top layer for peeling off the decal leaving the surround material behind. Again, this all sounds great and looks easy and accurate in the videos, but up to this point I've hesitated to spend a few hundred bucks to see how it really works. I need to find a friend or neighbor that has one of these things so I can actually test and play with it.

Throwing "caution" to the wind, I rewired it and the socket works now. Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the matter. No pictures are now necessary.

Awesome, and well done.

I already have it installed (my BSD is now in vintage mode..) and have been "updating" the endproduct mix a bit. It's a blast having a near excellent mix to work with.

I might have to try some of the self adhesive laminate that you refer too. The stuff I have used is from Office Depot and I don’t get any bubbles but when you look at the reflection it just looks like it has a blotch type pattern. I have had some success with some Mylar sheets I have bought from Marco for drop targets. And I actually cut them out with my vinyl cutter. I designed the exact size in my cutter software and then cut them and applied and they did look good.
Over the next couple weeks I guess I need to try and figure out the contour cutting because my cutter can do it but I have never really had the “need” to do it. If I could figure it out it would sure make selling decals easier as the hand cutting is what has kept me from doing it.

Just wondering if you go to TPF and if we have met down there at the show?

I've been to TPF the last 3 years (since I got into pinball). I only had my Getaway until I acquired my JP about 3 months ago.

If you would like to try some of the laminate before going to the expense of buying a full roll, PM me with your name and address and I'll be happy to mail you a couple of samples you can test with. I'm currently on my fifth roll of the stuff and about to order another one. Prior to finding this I used Marco Specialties clear mylar, but I found it to be expensive, harder to work with, and it did not lay down nearly as well (blotchy, like you stated) as what I'm using now.

The key is to lay it down progressively instead of all at once, and then to squeegee the entire surface when applied (it too will look "blotchy" until you do, but is completely smooth afterwards). The other trick I learned is to actually tape the paper to the surface to keep it from moving while applying the laminate (I just use little pieces of masking tape that overlap opposite white edges and my cutting surface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015AOIYI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00). It is also best to do individual decals or smaller sets at a time. I've do things as large a apron cards all of the time, but on occasion have even done longer decals up to 20" and even full speaker panel sized (much easier with a helper). I use the little plastic squeegees I've collected from ordering vinyl here are there. I also bought an adhesive felt sheet from Hobby Lobby (they're like $1 a sheet) so I can keep the edge nice and new.
IMG_2383.JPG

Oh cool. Yeah, I actually watched the entire movie on my PC and captured sound clips throughout. I added several sound effects/callouts, and removed a few from his original mix.

I've refrained from posting my updated mix, as I've not asked his permission to do so. Don't know what he would think, but the couple of times I've communicated with him he was not very engaging, so I figure its not worth the bother. My intent is not to disparage him at all, as his PinSound mixes are some of the best made, but I think he tends to be more independent than collaborative which I can respect.

Right, I was thinking the same thing.. Having spent ages on my BSD and MSF mixes, I can see how someone just adding bits and pieces here and there shouldn't be uploading anything unless it is a total different beast, then it should be shared. Which I might actually end up with if I have the time

Received my apron decals from Mr_Tantrum today. They look great! I also added a few pics of the instruction cards that I had mentioned.

Thanks again

0C3F6C6E-3514-4C3C-BC3F-D6334B3E0096 (resized).jpeg

3C5D8043-6779-4918-B7EE-CB811D0F53AC (resized).jpeg

BDBBE294-6050-4EDB-90DB-EF01255F1189 (resized).jpeg

Very nice.

While I'd never do this myself, after seeing your instruction cards, I'd love to see a whole machine worn and weathered. Like it'd been on the island exposed for a number of years.

Just look at the before pictures in my Restoration thread.....Done.

I've gotta say thats the nicest jp i've seen. Big fan of the customizations!

Very nice of you, thank you. The previous owner had already added quite a lot, but of course I had to put my flare on it. Hasn't had a cabinet restore (I've done some touchups to it), but overall it is a very nice pin in great condition that is fun to play.

Yall see that 5500 jp in madison? Dude is smoking something...

I would only ask $5499 for mine

I had told some one I wanted 4k for mine with the trex mod and color dmd. 3200 without them. They thought that was still too high. So then I decided ths game is never leaving, lol.

So I replaced the t-rex left/right motor and gearbox which definitely improved the smoothness and torque available. However, I also replaced the relay and diode on that board and the rex still only goes left, with either flipper button.

Any help?

I've added so many mods and customizations that I would definitely want higher than average market value. Then again, it's not for sale anyway so doesn't really matter at this point.

You need to check out the bi-directional relay. It is in the middle of the playfield, not necessarily back by T-Rex. I did a solder reflow on mine and that fixed the problem when my T-rex would only go left.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/91#post-4571777

Does anyone know if the ramps for sale at pinball life and Marcos are the same? PL says reproduction and Marco has it listed as the whole ramp assembly including the flasher and everything that would be mounted to it, but nothing about being a repro..

those are pretty good looking. homemade?

I was wondering the same thing. I might call Marco and ask about the ramp.

Yeah, sorry, wasn't clear... I reflowed it first and then replaced the actual relay on the board (along with the diode), still nothing. I has some messed up thru holes so I'll check continuity real quick.

No, there's a vendor in Washington State that was making them for JP and several other games, but the name escapes me right now. If I can find their link, I'll post it up.

https://sites.google.com/view/pingravings

Yep, that’s them! Thanks man

What does he charge for them?

It was something like $30-50 depending on which set. I don't know if I found out what the JP ones were specifically.

Those metal cards are really dope. Something about them not having corners really bugs me though. Are they that thick that you cant bend them?