Any luck?

Nothing yet!

Do you want measurements so you can make your own?

For anyone interested I put up the electric fence mod in my store. I have one finished right now and all subsequent ones will be made to order (3-4 days for production).

A little help. T-Rex moves without any issue and closes his mouth except when it’s time to pick up the ball. Then he just refuses to do so. In Test I can close his mouth upright and I can close it up until about halfway bent over. But then it wil not close. I’m certain this problem has been addressed. Any help is appreciated . Thanks

That would be great, thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/82#post-4161300

fosaisu hope this helps.

This has happened to a lot of folks and, recently, to myself. You need to check the wires inside the gray tubing that runs from the T-rex coil under and around the collar on the playfield. My black wire was split in half. So, Rex could close her jaws in the upright position because the wires were touching. When she would bend down, the wires were not connected, so no more jaw action.

Folks on here have suggested just replacing both wires all the way from the coil to the underside of the playfield where it connects. That's the best course of action if you can't find an obvious split. Plus, if you do both, less worry for down the road.

Ive got another game in my sights at the moment, but I need to pull the trough on my game completely out and clean it all and re-install. I have so many ball kick out issues now its unplayable. The lip where the ball feeds into the VUK is just too high. The balls get hung up there over and over. Really frustrating. So, I will pull the mech....when is the question. If I get this new game...hopefully its plug and play for a bit. Then I could pull the trough. Fingers crossed.

Any tips on pulling the whole trough out and cleaning?

That's great on the bar measurements. Only other helpful info would be placement & size of holes.

Here are a couple of photos from my JP photo archive that may help with regards to installation placement.

Gord

DSCN3386 (resized).JPG
DSCN3387 (resized).JPG

Hello

I cannot find part numbers to plastics in my manual. Anyone know the part of this one located on the upper left of the play field?

Thanks

Screenshot_20190621-165935_Gallery (resized).jpg

So, do you have what you need now? You should be able to measure the hole positioning by the holes on top of your backbox.

Also, I painted the player facing side of mine black to match the backbox. Seems to be less distracting to me now that the silver color. My other side was rusty, so I actually covered it with aluminum tape (happen to have some) to make it more reflective. Otherwise, I'm sure some steel wool and elbow grease would have done the trick.

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/8019/plastic-for-jurassic-park-2

Crap.. I'm missing a wire. Can someone look and see where this wire connects?

It's a yellow/blue wire coming down through the playfield with all of the ramp/gate wires. I believe it is paired in the same tubing as the red/blue wire. I had to cut these to remove them and I don't see where the yellow/blue was cut off. I have all of the other wire pieces there to pair up. I think I see a yellow/blue on the little junction board where the other yellow & red wires go but not sure why I don't have a cut off end.
pasted_image (resized).png

- Edit... I connected the yellow/blue to what I thought was yellow/blue on the junction board but I am not getting lights.

Ah dang.. something happened and I lost all of the GI on the back half of the playfield. I am hoping it is some loose wire somewhere because it did it when I shoved the playfield back. The diagrams in the manual I have are hard as heck to read.. where does that circuit go? Is there a fuse just for that purple/violet GI string?

Maybe this will help?

Be careful there are some yellow/blacks that look a lot like yellow/blue with old dust on them or if you’re wearing your beer goggles on a Saturday night.

F7F6A059-FF47-403E-87C2-925F1A802CDC (resized).jpegD602D7D1-A9A6-40D3-B59F-3DF7253FAAFF (resized).jpeg9B663A7D-3ED3-46B5-9DE6-F9331F6AD5AE (resized).jpeg49788FB0-1569-49B1-9E3B-9762C5F8CBD7 (resized).jpeg12755FDC-6AF3-45DA-BD98-A48441DE470B (resized).jpeg

I left my pf up if you need some more pics just holla

TY, I'll check tomorrow morning!

Got a few lighting issues to work out but the playfield is in the game! Figuring out what the best lighting is for the loopcombo signs, waiting on my TREX sticker for the apron and gotta see what is up with the back-half GI. Most the game plays!

All that and I think I need to take the t-rex gearbox out. I should have opened it up when I had it out. The poor guy is struggling to get left and right.

If you haven't seen them, you need to get this decal from Titan.. it finishes off the lockbar area so nicely. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133
0622192035 (resized).jpg

Ditto on the Titan lockbar decal: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/118#post-4970989

I have a Like New complete Smart Scoop mod by Tim's pinball mods if any of y'all guys are interested. Listed in market.

Mod - For Sale

Jurassic Park Smart Scoop mod by Tim's Archived

Used, good condition - “Like New complete Smart Scoop mod by Tim's pinball mods. Complete with instructions. These are sold out from Tim's website. I had it installed and then took off my machine. Price...”

2020-05-12

Bulverde, TX

bigcat68

85 (OBO)

Archived after: 97 days

Viewed: 407 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I already have one, but wanted to let everyone know this is a great mod. I realize there are already LEDs above the scoops to direct you to a required shot, but having the scoops glow red makes it much more apparent (not to mention it's just cool having the scoops glow red).

So I found one disconnected wire (to the shoot again light). Fixed it and shoot again works now.

The ones that aren't making sense are the ones on the mode lights. Underneath all the mode lights are on the sane board. Yet extra ball, stampede, and 1 smart missile don't work. I replaced the bulbs and then I exchanged a socket I knew worked with one that isn't working.

When I put the one that I know is good in a spot that isn't working, the light still doesn't work and the socket that wasn't working is now working in it's new location.

Can it still be a broken wire since all the lights are working on the board except the 3? I've tried reseating the wire to the board but nothing.

I guess I wasn't understanding you at first. You are referring to the lamps that use the removable twist on sockets, right?

If that is the case you could have a few issues:
- Corroded or broken contacts for the lights not working
- Loose solder connections on the board that need to be reflowed
- Broken/damaged tracers on the circuit board

Can you provide some pics of the light board (with the lights that don't work removed). Eventually, you might have to remove the board to examine both sides.

When I get a moment, I'll get a picture. Thanks!

Are these lights tied into the lights above the hole and flash at the sametime, or are they just tied into the GI?

They are tied into the intelligence of the scoop lights. They only illuminate when the above scoop light is on (i.e. they are only on when that scoop is an active shot).

Crap, I guess my t-rex was hanging on by a thread. I rebuilt the gearbox and it definitely has some parts of the gears that are worn. It has some "dead" spots where it gets really hard to spin. From what I'm reading the game, even though the motor is 5v, doesn't supply "full wave rectification" which makes the left/right motor sluggish. I think I realized this when I was bench testing with a 5v power supply to the motor directly, it ran excellently. In the game, it gets stuck far left. Now, manually moving the t-rex it gets stuck far left so I think that is a gearbox issue but if the motor gets more power it seems like it is not an issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jp-t-rex-not-moving-leftright#post-1104004

There isn't enough information in that post for me to know what to do. Has anyone made this modification?

I hate to spend $200 on a gearbox and motor but after tearing it all apart I don't see much else I can do. All the other wear/movable parts have been cleaned and lubed so the rex moves easily on it's own. The gearbox/motor seems to be the largest issue.

Can I get the motor on its own? I don't see the part number listed anywhere, I have to imagine this is something common?

Just thinking out loud....
what rom version do you have?
Correct me if im wrong but
Wasnt there an update for power to t rex in one of the later original roms?

Ah found it :

Just in case... maybe by updating your rex became slower?

Revision History: (Included for reference. Info is not complete, but this info was included in official service bulletins)
v5.10 / Service Bulletin #47
Symptom: We have found a condition that occurs in some games , in Game Over Mode. The display blacks out for approximately 15-30 seconds.

Problem: There is a communication error between the game C.P.U. and the display board C.P.U. at which time the game micro-processor goes into a wait status which times out in approx. 15-30 seconds.

Solution: Install CPU/DISP EPROM Revision 5.10.

v5.01/v5.10 / Service Bulletin #53
CPU 5.01 is the latest T-Rex related update. This slowed the left/right motor down to reduce wear and tear on the gears.
CPU 5.10 is the latest revision and was released strictly to eliminate the display blanking out in attract mode.item #4).

v5.0 / Service Bulletin #42
Symptom: The Left-Right motor fails prematurely, or struggles to move the head left and right.

Cause:Damage to the gearbox, due to excessive speed of the mechanism. (The motor operates one of the switches used to stop it’s rotation and due to wide variations of the motor speed, over travels and strikes the mechanical stop.)

Cure: To prevent shock to this motor, use the attached diagram to adjust the left and right limit switches and change the program to version 5.00 as supplied in the kit. The new program provides a more intelligent speed control to help slow it down prior to the limit switch closure.

v5.0 / Service Bulletin #39
Symptom: Sometimes the dinosaur can not properly grip the ball resulting in it slipping from the dinosaur’s mouth. When this condition occurs, and, the ball drains to the outhole before the dinosaur is in the upright position, (TOP SWITCH ON), the mouth coil remains energized, resulting in possible damage to the coil and its associated transistor driver (Q26).

Cure: If you find that the ball slips out of the dinosaurs mouth, gently bend the metal forming the upper teeth slightly outward, this will insure the ball is “swallowed” every time. Additionally, the updated CPU ROM sent with this bulletin will prevent this lock-Jaw condition from occurring even when the conditions described above are simulated. We strongly urge all games be updated to this version ( 5. 00). In addition, this program also allows the dinosaur to operate more intelligently. In the past, when the center switch was not found on its initial search, the assembly would be disabled. Now, this search will be resumed each time the T-Rex “feed mode” is enab

I am not 100% sure what version I'm on. I think I have some newer chips here to install as well, so I can look at both. There is definitely a mechanical issue, I can feel it in the gearbox. I just don't know if it is something common to do the modification to the relay board (doesn't seem to be) or even if anyone here has tried that. There is definitely a difference in speed/force when just applying 5v to the motor directly.

Also, I noticed that the left/right motor is only moving one direction even during tests, this did not used to be the case. Guess I need to check the relay board for that as well, it sounds like. Maybe this is related to power as well.

I know when I got my JP the Trex would only turn 1 way, it was a bad relay in my case. There has been discussion to which one it is, but it's on bottom side of playfield.

Thanks, I saw a few threads on this so I'll be checking that out.

Has anyone modified Tim's scoop light mod to be color correct? Instead of red I was going to replace with the proper color, but now I don't remember how that works. Does the mod key off the green "power" light above each scoop? Or is the it color below (blue or yellow)?

Dangit, now I have a few issues. Moving to a new thread to keep it clean: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-rebuild-issues#post-5059847

On mine, the scoops flash red whenever lower lights (yellow) are on or flashing for all 3 scoops.

However, his video shows that green on control room triggers scoop light (not how mine seems to work as yellow is on when it is active): https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=45&v=KAbxpj3kALc

Thanks... I was having trouble deciphering from the video. I guess I could cross-reference the wire colors he suggests hooking up to. I thought I looked at the lamp wires and it was all the lower colors (non-green) of the two pairs of lights. I guess that makes sense? You light the scoop by hitting it when the power lights is on and then it turns on the colored light and scoop light?

In that case, they should be the color of the lower light (yellow and blue) to match.

Did anyone else know they had the ramp in stock?

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-main-ramp-assembly.html

I just ordered it... not cheap on shipping but it's available.

I can try taking a video later to hopefully clear things up if you would like.

No. I'm surprised. Let us know how the quality is.

Please share picture after you installed it. Thanks!

Will do. Doesn't look, at least in the picture, that it has the end ball stop bracket so I guess I'll relocate that but it is nice that everything else is attached.

Mr_Tantrum the decals arrived, they look awesome! Better than I expected, high quality!

Glad you like them. Can't wait to see picks of your game once you get everything back to 100%.

T-Rex now has some grass at the front of her pen. Thanks @mr_tantrum.

JP (resized).JPG

For those of you who purchased the custom apron cards designed to use flush mounted lighting, here is what you need to do (FYI, the light in person is more diffused throughout the circle - hard to photograph):

1) Lift playfield and rest on bar. You can see the default setup of the sockets and lights
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2) Remove cards, remove two screws behind to remove apron, and remove 4 bulbs in sockets
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3) Lift or remove apron and bend sockets outward about 30 degrees or so
IMG_2369.JPG

4) Install flex bulbs and bend to where LEDs are flat and centered into each hole (position apron to do this)
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5) Apply decal (I just installed mine over the top of original, but you could heat original a little and remove first), turn on game and test LED function, make any adjustments needed
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6) Put game back together and play some JP pinball
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Camouflaged much better now . . . you can hardly see the stealthy T-Rex!

Nice instructions, looks great! That came together quick!