(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,149 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 128 of 143.
#6351 5 months ago

A little more info. When I reinstalled the flippers I noticed that the wires were reversed on the EOS switches on the pics I took before removing them. On the left flipper the blue wire goes to the shorter leaf of the EOS switch and the brown wire goes to the long leaf. The right flipper was opposite, blue to long leaf and brown to short leaf. I resoldered them the same way thinking this must be correct.

Also I notice that I don’t get an LED on the flipper board when I just close the first switch on the right but I do get an LED when the second switch gets closed.

Here’s the flipper in question:
image (resized).jpg

#6353 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Swap flipper switches.

Not clear on what you are meaning here? EOS switches or flipper button switches?

#6354 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Also I notice that I don’t get an LED on the flipper board when I just close the first switch on the right but I do get an LED when the second switch gets closed.

I would assume it is an incomplete circuit to the electronic flipper board...
Did you check for cold solder joints, reseat IDC wires to the connector...
Did you check for continuity of the solid state EOS contacts...
Did you check the continuity from the solid state flipper board IDC connector to the
flipper buttons/EOS switch/Flipper coil...
Did you check for bad fuse.

#6355 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I would assume it is an incomplete circuit to the electronic flipper board...
Did you check for cold solder joints, reseat IDC wires to the connector...
Did you check for continuity of the solid state EOS contacts...
Did you check the continuity from the solid state flipper board IDC connector to the
flipper buttons/EOS switch/Flipper coil...
Did you check for bad fuse.

SSF check (resized).JPG
#6356 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Not clear on what you are meaning here? EOS switches or flipper button switches?

Button switches. Bad contacts could cause intermittent function. Or just replace those and eos, easy enough to do and it's excluded.

#6357 5 months ago

This post is to those of you that have purchased Geteos’s JURASSIC PARK T-REX REPLACEMENT STANDUP BOX.

First, let me say that the box is very nice. I am very pleased. My question concerns installing the flasher and spot lights.

If you have installed your replacement box, may I ask if you would be willing to post a picture of the back side of the box with all lamp connections? I am most likely being an idiot and over looking the obvious, but at the moment I am confused.

Thanks,
Phil

#6358 5 months ago

Problem solved, it was the new EOS switch. I guess it either had some residual material on the contact from manufacturing or the switch didn't have quite enough tension to stay closed at rest. I ohmed out the EOS switch and it was clearly not making contact. I cleaned it and readjusted it and everything is back to normal.

Thanks guys!

#6360 5 months ago
Quoted from BleacherBum:

This post is to those of you that have purchased Geteos’s JURASSIC PARK T-REX REPLACEMENT STANDUP BOX.
First, let me say that the box is very nice. I am very pleased. My question concerns installing the flasher and spot lights.
If you have installed your replacement box, may I ask if you would be willing to post a picture of the back side of the box with all lamp connections? I am most likely being an idiot and over looking the obvious, but at the moment I am confused.
Thanks,
Phil

Sorry for the delay Phil, normally I can respond pretty quick but I was out today on a day trip for work.

Check your PM for a link to the PDF instructions I just put together for the box install.

In case anyone else is looking for them I put the link into the item description in the store.

#6361 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Problem solved, it was the new EOS switch. I guess it either had some residual material on the contact from manufacturing or the switch didn't have quite enough tension to stay closed at rest. I ohmed out the EOS switch and it was clearly not making contact. I cleaned it and readjusted it and everything is back to normal.
Thanks guys!

Awesome. Now get back to playing some

#6362 5 months ago

I received installation instructions from Greg for his replacement standup box. As I figured I was trying to do something stupid. Now have it installed along with the stun gun mid. Both look and work great. Thanks Greg for making these great mods.

Phil

#6363 5 months ago
Quoted from BleacherBum:

I received installation instructions from Greg for his replacement standup box. As I figured I was trying to do something stupid. Now have it installed along with the stun gun mid. Both look and work great. Thanks Greg for making these great mods.
Phil

Pics or it didnt happen...

#6364 5 months ago

I have one white dino egg ball left for sale, and can ship today. Please PM if interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/127#post-5040679

#6365 5 months ago

Has anyone found good LED replacements to upgrade the look of the “shoot the T-Rex when lit” lamp and the T-R-E-X indicator lamps on the apron? I’m thinking in these modern times there must be an upgrade to the old “bulb condom” look.

#6366 5 months ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Has anyone found good LED replacements to upgrade the look of the “shoot the T-Rex when lit” lamp and the T-R-E-X indicator lamps on the apron? I’m thinking in these modern times there must be an upgrade to the old “bulb condom” look.

Dude, where you been? Read back, some one made a whole new 3D printer box for that...

Nothing for the apron though...

#6367 5 months ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Has anyone found good LED replacements to upgrade the look of the “shoot the T-Rex when lit” lamp and the T-R-E-X indicator lamps on the apron? I’m thinking in these modern times there must be an upgrade to the old “bulb condom” look.

Couple of options from Comet:

Non-ghosting white or clear domed red wedge: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm

Non-ghosting red faceted wedge: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd3528-ng.htm

#6368 5 months ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Has anyone found good LED replacements to upgrade the look of the “shoot the T-Rex when lit” lamp and the T-R-E-X indicator lamps on the apron? I’m thinking in these modern times there must be an upgrade to the old “bulb condom” look.

I just put non ghosting LEDs in there with no condom. Works fine.

#6369 5 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Couple of options from Comet:
Non-ghosting white or clear domed red wedge: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
Non-ghosting red faceted wedge: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd3528-ng.htm

Faceted with a red bulb condom looks great.

#6370 5 months ago

Yup, any of those bulbs. I did the frosted 2SMD and they look good.

#6371 5 months ago

Some one should make a new apron with the letters TREX backlit....just sayin

#6372 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Some one should make a new apron with the letters TREX backlit....just sayin

How about a new sticker that has clear/red inserts? Then just have to use shorty bulbs without domes to fit under. I can probably get that sticker made pretty easily.

#6373 5 months ago

I just put the red condoms back on over the Frosted Warm White LED's. I like the look of the solid red dome instead of a white dome and whatever color base. The condom cleans up the look of a raw LED bulb.

#6374 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How about a new sticker that has clear/red inserts? Then just have to use shorty bulbs without domes to fit under. I can probably get that sticker made pretty easily.

This is quite doable if there is actually a market for it. I'd be happy to make them for $10 each. I haven't looked or tried, but is there enough clearance for a non-domed LED? I think even that might project above the apron surface.

#6375 5 months ago

I was thinking something like this. Where the "off" lights are a semi-transparent circle that is lit up by a red LED from behind.

Untitled-2 (resized).jpg
#6376 5 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This is quite doable if there is actually a market for it. I'd be happy to make them for $10 each. I haven't looked or tried, but is there enough clearance for a non-domed LED?

I can look in a few minutes. If not I am guessing the mech can be modified a bit to sit lower, I don't recall any tight clearances. Or heck, a 3D printed armature with different sockets.

I can do the design and printing to if you don't end up doing it. I'm doing some JJPOTC decals right now and I have the decal in question uninstalled. I can give you a scan if needed.

#6377 5 months ago

Not low enough by default, but two easy solutions. One, flex bayonet bulbs, easy enough. Or replacement sockets if you want to go clean. Should be a really easy swap if someone prints the stickers.

0614191412 (resized).jpg0614191415 (resized).jpg0614191415a (resized).jpg0614191416 (resized).jpg
#6378 5 months ago

Thats nice dude!

You could also laser cut the letters with black over the white lens. Then just remake the sticker with a bigger jp logo and font size without the trex letters. Over booooard, lol. Would be cool though.

#6379 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Thats nice dude!
You could also laser cut the letters with black over the white lens. Then just remake the sticker with a bigger jp logo and font size without the trex letters. Over booooard, lol. Would be cool though.

Yeah, that could be cool too. I guess you could change the sticker around since you are remaking it.

#6380 5 months ago

You almost have to do decals for both sides, as you will never completely match the coloring or style.

#6381 5 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You almost have to do decals for both sides, as you will never completely match the coloring or style.

Yeah, thought about that... then you can definitely redesign it!

I'll do them in a week or two if no one else does. I am in the middle of doing like 10 for JJPOTC.

#6382 5 months ago

Interested to see how these come out? Could be really cool

#6383 5 months ago

Interesting idea, it'll kind of modernize the apron by doing something like that. Hmm I'm going to have a look at it today to see if I can come up with something too.

#6384 5 months ago

Just tossing around some concept and placement ideas. Want to throw some instruction text on there too. Maybe the fence/electrical stuff.

pasted_image (resized).png
#6385 5 months ago

Btw, this is what the updated sticker looks like that I had sitting around. I am not sure if this was NOS updated or someone redid it, but it surrounds the lights now.

0615190835a (resized).jpg
#6386 5 months ago

Mine looks that way too

15606239872313677508917774616400 (resized).jpg
#6387 5 months ago

Here is a first stab at something.. I figured I would bring in some movie elements and make it a bit more realistic. Open to ideas.

Apron-Sticker (resized).jpg
#6388 5 months ago

Here is one of my ideas.

JP Apron Art.jpg
#6389 5 months ago

Whichever version or all that come to be built, I am a fan of the hidden bulb lighting the decal from below. Just looks more complete Imo.

#6390 5 months ago

Shit, I just realized I could use the new sticker and just put some sort of translucent plastic under the lights. Boom, stock but updated.

#6391 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Shit, I just realized I could use the new sticker and just put some sort of translucent plastic under the lights. Boom, stock but updated.

Not a bad idea. You could actually just print 4 red circles on photo paper, cut them out, then adhere to underside of the decal.

Also, there is room enough for more than one design to suit different tastes. I like where you are going with yours.

#6392 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Not low enough by default, but two easy solutions. One, flex bayonet bulbs, easy enough. Or replacement sockets if you want to go clean. Should be a really easy swap if someone prints the stickers.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like the flex idea, maybe I’ll get some time tomorrow or early in the week to actually print and fit the art correctly and test a flex bulb.

#6393 5 months ago

Before I go to too much effort, other than the couple of us, is there any interest in this? For me, having to remember to remove the bottom bulb every time I lift the playfield (I’ve broken one, scratched top of my backbox, etc.) is enough of a reason to figure out a flush mount solution.

#6394 5 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Before I go to too much effort, other than the couple of us, is there any interest in this? For me, having to remember to remove the bottom bulb every time I lift the playfield (I’ve broken one, scratched top of my backbox, etc.) is enough of a reason to figure out a flush mount solution.

I didn't even know this was an issue.

The flex work/fit fine... it's an easy solution if you want to use the existing sticker, as well. I was going to do clear/semi-opaque inserts with red bulbs behind. That way they are white/clear when not lit. I might replace the holders so I can lower them and use a brighter light (the flex have limited options). One of their quasar bulbs or whatever with like 4 SMD on it could be nice.

I'd probably have to get 100 of each printed if I did it.. that's the place I'm using for the POTC stuff, at least. I am guessing interest is limited, maybe 20 people if that.

I need to find some semi-transparent material anyhow for a window on POTC so the same stuff will probably work for this as well. Now that I found the decal, I might just do that... problem is I only have the left. I don't really want to do just the left, but it might look ok. I guess I could see if there is some other option, like Kinkos or something. The other stickers I am making are for targets so they are heavier duty. The biggest thing would be the die cut so it has the right shape. I don't think I could cut them out to look decent, the rounded corners would get murdered.

#6395 5 months ago

Ah so close. I am missing 2 parts, both arriving from PBL on Monday. In the meantime fixing a few little things, tidying up, re-connecting a few cut wires, etc. Got the geteos mods installed..might mod them a bit Have a hankering for some flickering flame lights on the gate.

0615191630 (resized).jpg
#6397 5 months ago

How much does an led fan like that run? The pro ones we use in arrays at work are like $4000 a piece or more.

#6398 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah so close. I am missing 2 parts, both arriving from PBL on Monday. In the meantime fixing a few little things, tidying up, re-connecting a few cut wires, etc. Got the geteos mods installed..might mod them a bit Have a hankering for some flickering flame lights on the gate.[quoted image]

I'd like to try to play a game with the flippers in those positions - ha!

#6399 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

How much does an led fan like that run? The pro ones we use in arrays at work are like $4000 a piece or more.

They are pricing their model at $250 but you can buy something similar around $150. Then, you have to figure out video on your own.

#6400 5 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'd like to try to play a game with the flippers in those positions - ha!

Heh... it was screwing with my brain. I need to climb under and hook those up. I just got the diverter in to place (totally forgot it needed a bushing, couldn't figure out what was going on). I'm repairing my ramp break today and barring those two items tomorrow I should be ready to put it back together!

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