Wasn't sure what the issue was. I did also notice during the Raptor mode ("The Raptors are out!" The one where you shoot the raptor pit with the raptor going back and forth for points value) that that screen was frozen during that mode. No movement, and the timer was stuck on 22 seconds left.

But was looking forward to seeing what the Wizard mode screen looked like in color. Guess I'll have to try it again.

Yes, I do.

79CEE326-3A51-426A-B580-5D50D086D896.jpeg

Almost there! Missing a few parts, gotta get that Marco order in today.

0609192117 (resized).jpg

Don't forget to take the protective masking off BOTH sides of those new plastics you have there.

Lookin good!!

OK I am onboard with both the sign and fence as a set let me know when you have some ready for sale, this looks great!!

Just took a closer look at the loose wire, the surrounding area, and the manual, and I'm still at a loss. Any additional help from anyone regarding how to wire the flasher given my situation is greatly appreciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/126#post-5038081

HEH... yeah, it's all just tossed on there for fitment and photo. You can see some of them are removed where I installed flasher domes, etc.

Still for sale, lower price. Save on shipping and pick up at Pinburgh.

ddd

SOLD!

Mod - For Sale

For Sale- Custom Jurassic Park Lit Topper Archived

Used, good condition - “Custom JP Topper $275 shipped obo or $250 pick up. Came with my recent purchase but won't fit in my basement so I am selling as a stand alone. Please see the video on YouTube fo...”

2019-06-20

Pittsburgh, PA

daveddd14

275 (OBO)

Archived after: 120 days

Viewed: 332 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

For the two of you who have posted photos (thank you), you both have a long double orange going to that flasher, while I have a 6" single black/yellow. Now I am questioning myself wondering if that flasher has ever worked since I've owned the pin (I just upgraded flasher bulbs is why I noticed). So, if I have to resort to plan B and rewire, can someone tell/show me where the two oranges connect on their other end so that I can?

The orange wire goes from the top right flasher to the horizontal flasher just next to it

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Then from there it goes to this sort of mounting junction thing

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My playfield is on some stands right now so it's hard to flip over. I can trace it in a few days once I get it back in the game.

I’m still confused. After looking at mine, I have the double orange in those 3 locations, just not on the non-working flasher.

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I'll see if I can get a better picture laying on my back, lol. I'm interested enough now that I want to see what is up!

Note: all relay A/C circuitry, Brights/Flashers are all orange wires for voltage...
If you cannot find the "rogue" orange wire then I would attach the "jumper wire, black-yellow wire"
to one of the orange wires of the nearby Brights/Flasher lamp sockets.
Better yet, change the black-yellow wire to orange and attach...;( less confusing ).

Anyone replaced the rubber and plastic on the front of the t-rex? I am trying to find a suitable match and I don't really want to randomly go buying stuff on amazon.

0610191944 (resized).jpg

Wow.. didn’t even know mine was missing.

You could take it to the craft store to find something, but just thinking about what is around the house. That looks similar to bike inner tube if you have something like that around to try.

Oh good option. I have some gray rubber from a shower floor pan, but wanted to keep it black. I'll see if I have a tube laying around... I worry it won't sit flat once cut. I suppose a craft store is the next option, thanks.

Damnit, just broke the ramp right near the diverter. I was trying to rivet back in the plate which connects the wire ramp. I am guessing this is unobtainium, looks like I'm doing some plastic welding. Damnit, damnit, damnit.

Bummer... I feel your pain. I've had a similar experience working on a different pin

I printed a black piece to replace the plastic so it is all black and blends much better. You could trim any piece of thin black plastic to replace the original.

I just installed Cliffy's and came really close to breaking mine doing something stupid. I swear I had a mini heart attack.

Hope...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/57#post-4771199

I think someone suggested rubber from an innertube. Could either buy a cheap new tube at Walmart or bike store for a couple of bucks.

I'll give this a try and report back. If I fry my pin, I'm going to put 100% of the blame on you!

Well, I soldered onto lead of flasher just below where orange wires were connected, and I'm back in business. After looking at things closely and seeing where my wire would reach, this had to be where it was originally. Thank you to everyone for your help with this. I know it is just one flasher, but my OCD just wouldn't let it go.

UPDATE: 1 BALL REMAINING (2 ARE SOLD)

I have 3 extra Pinball Life Powerballs/Navi-Balls/Rolling Stones (https://www.pinballlife.com/powerballnavi-ballrolling-stone.html) that came with the box of goodies when I bought my Jurassic Park. These are used as a replacement for the silver ball in the dinosaur egg chute. I've had them sitting in a storage box for the last couple of months, but figure that I will never use them. Normal price with shipping from Pinball Life is around $30. I will offer them for $24 each including US shipping (will ship outside US but will need to add shipping).

Please PM if interested, and the first 3 to commit get the balls.

FYI, for $2 more I will include one of my custom egg target decals for the white square target in the egg chute (pictured below)
IMG_2273.JPGIMG_2274.JPG

Put that ball in the tumbler for a bit to make it really look like a dino egg...

Oh nice!!

Yeah, I'll start there and use some polycarb for the plastic unless I can find something else.

They already have a "spottiness" to them which helps the egg appearance. Would be funny if could actually shape them like an egg and they still worked.

All this talk about eggs has got me thinking. I have a cheap Mattel Raptor I got from Target glued to a piece of plastic and mounted over the raptor pit. It is one of the raptors that has "jumping" action with springs in it's legs. I am tempted to drill a small l shaped hole in the plastic above it, add a piece of stiff wire to the raptor leg, and make it so that the raptor physically moves up and down when the ball hits the kickback. Has anyone done anything like this?

Sounds fun - would love to see it!

Not as nice as mine though...

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Tims?

The captive ball. It was run through a tumbler. It has a greyish spotty finish now that looks like a real egg. I think the stock powerball is too white.

The more you play with them the dirtier your balls will get.

Agreed. Mine looks really close to yours and its WAY nicer than a bright white ball.

Trying to figure out if this is an OEM part or not... sorry no pic, but easy to describe.

Most of the gray, clear and metal posts which support a plastic use a metal post inside of them that is threaded top and bottom with a built in "nut" ... PBL calls it a "Machine Post/Stud". Every single one on my game are the exact same EXCEPT one. The one is about 2-3mm taller (the top threaded portion). I can't see where this might have specifically gone. Maybe I could see it as one of the support for the Amber piece, but there is only one of them. Does this one go somewhere special or did someone just toss the wrong one in the game?

Top of the right sling? Where the main wireform is secured.

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YES!!! Thank you!!

(I'm glad someone else is using colored nuts!)

Is this the Pinball Life ball or something different?

Pinball Life. Put it in a tumbler. How many times do I have to say the same thing?

I have one dino egg ball left. Whoever is first to commit gets it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/127#post-5040679

Sorry dude, I did not see you explicitly state that it was the Pinball Life version of the ball (I know there are others brands/types out there). I get the tumbler part, just wanted to make sure it was done with the same exact type of ball.

Didn't mean to "dude" ya. Thanks for the info.

Having a new flipper issue. My right flipper was very weak and cleaning contacts didn't seem to matter so I decided to do a flipper rebuild. Bought the kit from Pinball Life and rebuilt all flippers. Soldered in all the wires as they were before. Turned on the machine and all was wonderful for two games. Right flipper was back to full strength, working great.

Then suddenly right lower flipper stops working completely. Right upper flipper is fine. Remove the glass and the right lower flipper just vibrates slightly when the flipper button is pressed. You can't see it but you can feel it with your finger. I rechecked the wire connections and they seem fine. Also metered out all the fuses on the flipper board and they are ok. Flipper moves freely by hand, no binding in the coil sleeve itself. Flipper will hold up when moved by hand but won't fire so it's the high voltage side that's the issue.

Ideas on where to go next?

Try cleaning your EOS and flipper contacts again. On mine, the set of contacts on the flipper button were not "square" and the amount of contact surface area must have been too small to carry enough current.

Did that, no effect.