(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by jamex
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There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 126 of 143.
#6251 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Oddly, mine does not have the spacer at all and I have no problems with the ramp.

Ditto here.

#6252 6 months ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Take the screw out of the spacer over the pop bumper, that should just be a spacer there holding the rail up. Your T rex area looks correct,

Actually, I don't think anything is supposed to be holding the rail up. On mine and all the ones I've seen, there's been nothing there. The only thing that touches is that ball on the underside on top of the pop bumper.

#6253 6 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Actually, I don't think anything is supposed to be holding the rail up. On mine and all the ones I've seen, there's been nothing there. The only thing that touches is that ball on the underside on top of the pop bumper.

Hard to tell from original flyer, but doesn’t look like anything is there. https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1343&picno=3211&zoom=1

Funny in that there are clear pop covers instead of amber, and also a white light on one of the scoops instead of yellow (probably forgot the cover). Pic also shows a white captive ball.

#6254 6 months ago

For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.

Thanks!

#6255 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.
Thanks!

Cool hopefully there is some still in stock come payday.

#6256 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hard to tell from original flyer, but doesn’t look like anything is there. https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1343&picno=3211&zoom=1
Funny in that there are clear pop covers instead of amber, and also a white light on one of the scoops instead of yellow (probably forgot the cover). Pic also shows a white captive ball.

I nabbed a white ball from PBL... it looks good IMHO. The yellow pops with the logo are a must have, personally. They are so prominent in the game.

#6257 6 months ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Cool hopefully there is some still in stock come payday.

Really the only item that keeps me from making these on demand is the flasher socket because I buy them from Marco.

If you're willing to re-use your existing one or buy it from Marco yourself, then I can produce one in a couple days.

#6258 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Really the only item that keeps me from making these on demand is the flasher socket because I buy them from Marco.
If you're willing to re-use your existing one or buy it from Marco yourself, then I can produce one in a couple days.

I don't need one if you want to spare one on mine.

#6259 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hard to tell from original flyer, but doesn’t look like anything is there. https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1343&picno=3211&zoom=1
Funny in that there are clear pop covers instead of amber, and also a white light on one of the scoops instead of yellow (probably forgot the cover). Pic also shows a white captive ball.

We need to get a bunch of nice photos from that guy who opened up the NIB JP a couple months ago. That would solve any questions about what was suppose to be where. I sure he has to have some video of the rail showing if there was a space there or not.

#6260 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.
Thanks!

In the picture of the sign mod there looks to be a fence to the right of it. Are you selling this as well? Can we get better pictures of that fence mod also?

Great looking mods by the way.

#6261 6 months ago

I need a new switch for the ramp switch assembly (500-2679-00). I do not need the complete assembly just the switch. The manual does not list the separate pieces that make up the assembly. Does anyone know what switch I need?

Thanks,
Phil

#6262 6 months ago
Quoted from BleacherBum:

I need a new switch for the ramp switch assembly (500-2679-00). I do not need the complete assembly just the switch. The manual does not list the separate pieces that make up the assembly. Does anyone know what switch I need?
Thanks,
Phil

I think the part you are looking at in the manual is 500-5679-00 (hard as heck to read) which is this (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5679-00) and the actual switch is just a basic DB3 or DB5 I believe (I have no idea what the differences are) like this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/95-4118-90. You can actually transfer the wireform from the old switch if it is in good condition. Otherwise, if you look on page 27 I believe the individual switch part numbers are listed. I think you want #34 which is 180-5117-00 and no on really has it (http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5117-00) but it looks like this part superceeds it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5198-00

#6263 6 months ago

Thanks much for the quick and detailed response. This was very helpful. I had spent my time looking at the ramp assembly page (68), which was not helpful at all. I looked a Marco and then thought I would see what PBR had. PBR had the 180-5117 switch.

Many thanks,
Phil

#6264 6 months ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

In the picture of the sign mod there looks to be a fence to the right of it. Are you selling this as well? Can we get better pictures of that fence mod also?
Great looking mods by the way.

I do plan on making the fence available in the next week or two. I'm just adding some finishing details and need to assemble a couple before I put it in the store. Thanks!

#6265 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think the part you are looking at in the manual is 500-5679-00 (hard as heck to read) which is this (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5679-00) and the actual switch is just a basic DB3 or DB5 I believe (I have no idea what the differences are) like this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/95-4118-90. You can actually transfer the wireform from the old switch if it is in good condition. Otherwise, if you look on page 27 I believe the individual switch part numbers are listed. I think you want #34 which is 180-5117-00 and no on really has it (http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5117-00) but it looks like this part superceeds it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5198-00

There's a good thread on here about the differences between DB3 and DB5. I attached the relevant picture showing the part number breakdown.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games

The gist is that DB3 is rated for 0.1A/250V and DB5 is rated for 1A/250V.

When I replaced mine I just grabbed a switch with the same dimensions from a local electronics surplus store and reused the rest of the assembly. The force of the ball rolling through the little wire gate I think is enough to actuate whichever switch you put in. At worst you'll need to bend the wireform.

DB Switches (resized).jpg
#6266 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

There's a good thread on here about the differences between DB3 and DB5. I attached the relevant picture showing the part number breakdown.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games
The gist is that DB3 is rated for 0.1A/250V and DB5 is rated for 1A/250V.
When I replaced mine I just grabbed a switch with the same dimensions from a local electronics surplus store and reused the rest of the assembly. The force of the ball rolling through the little wire gate I think is enough to actuate whichever switch you put in. At worst you'll need to bend the wireform.[quoted image]

Nice info!

#6267 6 months ago

How do you mount the (upper) trex switch without it getting mangled by the motor, yet still activating at the top? Seems like a fine line that I can’t get in

#6268 6 months ago

How's the quality of the gamerwraps inner art?

IMG_9045 (resized).PNG
#6269 6 months ago
Quoted from poopedmypins:

How do you mount the (upper) trex switch without it getting mangled by the motor, yet still activating at the top? Seems like a fine line that I can’t get in

? The rotating plate+pin should pass by the switch for top and down... adjust the switch blade so it activates at the right time/position of the pin.

#6270 6 months ago

Can I get a pic of yours? Mine won’t line up right, I must be doing something wrong

#6271 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.
Thanks!

Just ordered! Glad to see your inventory is getting bought up!! Congrats on the successful mods.

#6272 6 months ago

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

#6273 6 months ago
Quoted from poopedmypins:

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

It's on the other side of the wood brace from the coin box on the bottom of the cabinet. No photos right now since I'm at work.

#6274 6 months ago
Quoted from poopedmypins:

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/106#post-4865531

#6275 6 months ago
Quoted from poopedmypins:

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

As others have stated, it is not in the backbox but on the cabinet bottom somewhere inbetween the shaker motor and the bottom speaker. You are free to spend money to reinstall one for completeness sake, but be warned that every Data East knocker I have ever heard is pretty weak. The Bally/Williams one startle adults when they are not expecting it, the Data East one's wouldn't bother a cat. I would equate the volume of the knocker to be about twice as loud as the sound emanated when you hit the flipper button.

#6276 6 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

As others have stated, it is not in the backbox but on the cabinet bottom somewhere inbetween the shaker motor and the bottom speaker. You are free to spend money to reinstall one for completeness sake, but be warned that every Data East knocker I have ever heard is pretty weak. The Bally/Williams one startle adults when they are not expecting it, the Data East one's wouldn't bother a cat. I would equate the volume of the knocker to be about twice as loud as the sound emanated when you hit the flipper button.

I was very disappointing hearing this next to WCS when I 1st got JP home......

#6277 6 months ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

How's the quality of the gamerwraps inner art?[quoted image]

I like the quality of the Stern side art on my Munsters much more than this set which I have on my Jurassic Park. JP feels like a big sticker whike the Stern art is more rigid and scratch resistant. I'm very careful raising the playfield on JP and there are already marks.

#6278 6 months ago

Anyone happen to know the rest of the measurements for the shoulder screw that attaches the up/down motor to the T-rex? I found the screw on Marco, but wasn't planning on a Marco order anytime soon - and $10 for a single baby screw seems awful. Only problem is they only list it as '5/16 overall length' - doesn't have anything about the shoulder, size, etc... Thoughts on just using a regular screw with a washer?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=530-5248-00

#6279 6 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

We need to get a bunch of nice photos from that guy who opened up the NIB JP a couple months ago. That would solve any questions about what was suppose to be where. I sure he has to have some video of the rail showing if there was a space there or not.

I was planning on asking a similar question about this during the week as my very original JP doesn't have the metal spacer under the rail. I checked old JP market listings on pinside and saw that most don't have the spacer, but some do. The NIB JP definitely does have the spacer in place as seen around the 18m31sec mark in the unboxing video. Zoomed in images are attached showing this.

18m31sec.JPG18m32sec.JPG
#6280 6 months ago

Sounds like a production line change to prevent some issue with the ramp sagging or being misaligned. Guess it couldn't hurt.

#6281 6 months ago
Quoted from wanderer:

I was planning on asking a similar question about this during the week as my very original JP doesn't have the metal spacer under the rail. I checked old JP market listings on pinside and saw that most don't have the spacer, but some do. The NIB JP definitely does have the spacer in place as seen around the 18m31sec mark in the unboxing video. Zoomed in images are attached showing this.[quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting. Wonder what the serial number is on that machine? Did he post it? Curious if mine was made before or after it. Mine was a Japan model before. Somewhere I thought I heard they did overseas production first?

Temping to go and put one on, but I've had zero issues with mine, so I'm just going to leave it alone I guess.

BUT, looking at that screenshot, looks like there may have been a lock-nut on there at one point? There's a mark around the post. Or maybe that's just from when they punched the hole?

Found it. around the 4:06 mark. SN#88328 June 1993.

#6282 6 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Interesting. Wonder what the serial number is on that machine? Did he post it? Curious if mine was made before or after it. Mine was a Japan model before. Somewhere I thought I heard they did overseas production first?
Temping to go and put one on, but I've had zero issues with mine, so I'm just going to leave it alone I guess.
BUT, looking at that screenshot, looks like there may have been a lock-nut on there at one point? There's a mark around the post. Or maybe that's just from when they punched the hole?
Found it. around the 4:06 mark. SN#88328 June 1993.

I can't even really imagine why it would be needed. If anything I would think the ball escaping on the other side of the ramp would be more prominent than the backside, so why support it there?

#6283 6 months ago

Put the final touch on the electric fence. The 10,000 volt sign makes it complete.

image (resized).jpg
#6284 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Put the final touch on the electric fence. The 10,000 volt sign makes it complete.[quoted image]

Does it light up?

#6285 6 months ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Does it light up?

Yup, the top lights trigger with the T. rex shot when lit and the bottom two yellow LEDs light up with Electric fence mode.

#6287 6 months ago

NOTE: The production run of JP has the hex spacer.... Over the years "people", lose stuff...
------ Sample games are not production games,they have never been, and they never will be...

#6288 6 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

NOTE: The production run of JP has the hex spacer.... Over the years "people", lose stuff...
------ Sample games are not production games,they have never been, and they never will be...

For sure, easy "extra part" to end up with after a JP topside.
Most of them probably ended up set aside in the cabinet "where did this go? Oh well, everything works!" Before the internet.
One time folded up and to the back she goes! Along with all the other miscellaneous screws and nuts you may or may not find a home for someday.

#6289 6 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

For sure, easy "extra part" to end up with after a JP topside.
Most of them probably ended up set aside in the cabinet "where did this go? Oh well, everything works!" Before the internet.
One time folded up and to the back she goes! Along with all the other miscellaneous screws and nuts you may or may not find a home for someday.

True, true, true. I find it kind of odd that I do repair stuff and their are metal bowels with
leftover screws and whatnot's that the techies and shop-outers have left behind.

#6290 6 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

True, true, true. I find it kind of odd that I do repair stuff and their are metal bowels with
leftover screws and whatnot's that the techies and shop-outers have left behind.

I like looking in the cab and finding hidden treasures. Finding receipts from the 90s, old bulbs, hardware... it's like a time capsule!

#6291 6 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

NOTE: The production run of JP has the hex spacer.... Over the years "people", lose stuff...
------ Sample games are not production games,they have never been, and they never will be...

Mine came with the hex spacer installed. It does kinda seem redundant but I left it installed.

#6292 6 months ago

It's odd that mine didn't have that one. But has the other pieces to help block balls. Like the plastic post right next to that hex spacer. And I have the hex spacer in the upper right corner.

#6293 6 months ago

Does anyone know where to get the short clear ball return guides (550-5043-01 / 550-5045-01)?

Marco has the part listed but it's not in stock. The longer return guides are available 550-5037-01 (https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-parts/playfield-parts-lane-guides/data-eastsegastern-clear-return-lane-guide-550-5037-01/) but not the ones that go on top (shorter) ones.

Edit - Looks like, on closer inspection, the shorter guide is just a truncated version of the longer one. I'm just going to grab 4 and cut two of them.

#6294 6 months ago

I need some help with where a flasher wire goes, please. The back right flasher that comes up through the playfield stopped working and I see that the black w/ yellow stripe wire is not connected. Can someone please tell/show me where I need to solder? Please see center of my pic for flasher I am referring to, and you can also see the disconnected wire.

FE1486BD-0481-4321-85AE-EEC623D52684.jpeg
#6295 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I need some help with where a flasher wire goes, please. The back right flasher that comes up through the playfield stopped working and I see that the black w/ yellow stripe wire is not connected. Can someone please tell/show me where I need to solder? Please see center of my pic for flasher I am referring to, and you can also see the disconnected wire.[quoted image]

The black/yellow wire comes in from the wiring harness and goes up through the playfield to the back right flasher. Then it comes down from there and goes back in to the wiring bundle and goes further down the playfield (I think to that long narrow light PCB). I don't know how you have that wire sitting in the middle there but it looks like it should be going up to the back right flasher. There should be two black/yellow wires going to that flasher (through the playfield) and I only see one in your photo so I think that dangling wire needs to go up there. Again, not sure why it would be so short or hanging there like that. In fact the wires going to that flasher in the oblong hole don't look right.

0609191817 (resized).jpg0609191821 (resized).jpg0609191822 (resized).jpg
#6296 6 months ago

For the flasher right next to the eject shield, I have exactly what you show (photo is hiding the second black/yellow wire).

For the flasher where I have an issue, it looks like I have an oval hole where you have a circle one. Also, my wire colors are different on that same flasher verses yours. You have 2 orange and 2 black/brown while I have 2 black/brown and one black/yellow. Now I'm really confused.

Does anyone else have my situation?

#6297 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For the flasher right next to the eject shield, I have exactly what you show (photo is hiding the second black/yellow wire).
For the flasher where I have an issue, it looks like I have an oval hole where you have a circle one. Also, my wire colors are different on that same flasher verses yours. You have 2 orange and 2 black/brown while I have 2 black/brown and one black/yellow. Now I'm really confused.
Does anyone else have my situation?

Do you have a black/yellow going to the long lamp PCB that you can see in my last photo?

#6298 6 months ago

Got to Wizard mode for the first time with my ColorDMD and may have found an issue with it. During the part where everything goes haywire, the DMD didnt show the meltdown of the system. It just showed the current mode activated until the wizard mode started. Not sure if maybe the current active mode override the wizard mode animation, but I've always seen it with the stock DMD.

Also, as a tip, if you have your smart missile still during Wizard mode, it's pointless to use it. I still had mine, and hoped that it would rack up millions. It did not. Saw no benefit from it.

#6299 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Do you have a black/yellow going to the long lamp PCB that you can see in my last photo?

I will have to check tomorrow, as I'm calling it a night. I'll report back when I have a chance to take a look.

#6300 6 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Got to Wizard mode for the first time with my ColorDMD and may have found an issue with it. During the part where everything goes haywire, the DMD didnt show the meltdown of the system. It just showed the current mode activated until the wizard mode started. Not sure if maybe the current active mode override the wizard mode animation, but I've always seen it with the stock DMD.
Also, as a tip, if you have your smart missile still during Wizard mode, it's pointless to use it. I still had mine, and hoped that it would rack up millions. It did not. Saw no benefit from it.

ColorDMD can’t effect what is out put to the DMD it can only colour it. The worst that can happen is a frame is not identified and it will just show in the default colour. It could not cause a scene to not show. It is possible in sprite mode that it could get lost or stuck in the wrong palette but again the images would still output they would just be very oddly coloured.

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