I had JP for a few months before I installed Cliffy's. I don't notice any bounce backs or the metal catching the balls etc, all 3 fit flush to the playfield as expected. I did have significant wear previously and probably got quite a few balls into the scoops because of the wear. I saw the same complaints before putting the protectors on, so always had that comparison in the back of my mind when first Installed.

I played for about a month without hole protectors and noticed a fairly big difference in shot required to make the A hole. I got my protectors off ebay from a guy in Portugal, so I'm not sure how much they differ in terms of design. Do the Cliffy's bend over time and start to contour around where the hole wear was? Mine are starting to do this and the edges are starting to lift a bit. Before the protectors the ball would sometimes just roll into the hole, now the shot has to be very deliberate.

I also run Titan silicone and find that the bounce back from them can cause a lot of fly balls. I played on another JP recently without them and noticed a difference in the speed of the game without them. The titan's make it a bit more "twitchy" to play. I've adapted to it and don't mind especially after adding the extra post in the left outlane. Without the post, that outlane was the cause of many outbursts...

Took mine off and have been much happier without them. Really can't tell you the percent of in vs. blocked, but know that there are many slow moving shots that have fallen when they otherwise would have been blocked. With them on, I never did make it to the final Wizard mode. With them off, I've made it twice. Again, take that with a grain of sale. My play style could have gotten better. Shots more lucky. Or whatever.

Good to know about the titan rubber. I have it on my JJPOTC and there are a TON of air balls. I bought it for my JP as well, so I guess we'll see. I also have the portugal set and then talked to cliffy and he said he updated his set (I was unaware if the portugal ones are like his or not) so I bought the new pieces from him. I am going to see how they fit and maybe mould them a bit to the holes. My holes were quite worn so I built the up a bit with some epoxy putty and sanded them down. I am not sure they are the same size as original but maybe just a bit less. I can see how the cliffys are more square corners whereas the holes are not.

I just finished two upgrades to my JP that both had an immediately noticeable difference, and I highly encourage everyone to do them if you have not already.

1) Changed the pop bumper spoons to the Williams style (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-921). I know others have said this, which is why I did it. I rebuilt my pops not too long ago on my Getaway, and wow what a difference. When I got my JP, I was disappointed at how sluggish and unresponsive they were compared to my Williams machine. Anyway, I just now replaced the 3 pop spoons with the Williams type, and now the pops are much more lively than before. My gaps already looked good, so all I did was put the new spoons in which were noticeably more flexible and clean the contacts with a dollar bill.

2) Replace the 3 flipper grommets (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00). Another thing I was surprised by was the range that the flipper on my JP had verses my Getaway - they had almost twice the rotation. Again, someone here mentioned replacing the grommets to someone awhile back here in the thread, so since I was ordering stuff I decided to get them. I removed the old ones which were visibly worn, installed the new ones on all three flipper brackets, then I lowered the playfield and was surprised! The two bottom flippers where sticking up about 1/2" on one side and 3/4" on the other. I readjusted the two flippers, and now their range is much more reasonable. Funny thing is that right off the bat I was making shots with ease that I previously struggled to make (the loop past the 3 pops was much easier, and I hit the raptor pit 3 times in a row from the right flipper).

Anyway, a little maintenance goes a long way in making things more enjoyable.

Another under-appreciated item is to replace the coil sleeves on the coils for both slingshot assemblies. It adds an extra bit of action to that area which makes the game play a bit faster.

18+ years I played JP w/o cliffy's. joined pinside. put cliffy's on. immediately started hating playing my all time favorite pin. it became so difficult. It took me about 1 year (100ish) plays to realize what had happened. The cliffy's had made the game too hard to play. The control room shot starts just about everything except multi-ball. It should be relatively easy to hit. Cliffy's make that hole just a few mm larger than a pinball diameter.

I have come around to the idea that Cliffy's aren't actually there to protect but to cover up damage already done.

My holes are already blown out so what's a little more wear? Realistically, the 100-300 (at most) plays/yr a home environment pin sees is nothing compared to what it was built to do.

The products are awesome, fit great, do their job, don't move, etc. etc. but on JP the holes just end up too small IMO.

And I'll go a step further and add every coil sleeve. They're cheap. Some are really easy to replace. Others take a little more time. That includes Raptor pit, Trex Saucer, Boat Dock Saucer, Control Room kickout, VUK, Ramp Diverter, Pop bumbers, Ball through, Ball launch, and Obviously flippers and slings. Ah...I think that's all?

When I did mine, some sleeves were chipped, one I think was split, and another one separated. Wouldn't have been able to tell without replacing them. And yeah, make things much more smoother and sharper.

Yep. Another standard when you shop a machine. Replace all of them.

I don't know what the gate mod currently uses, but I added these flickering LEDs to my WOZ and I think they'd look perfect on the gate flames. Hopefully they are already used

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/153#post-5011301

Hopefully last coat of clear. Had to do some re-work on the "C" and "S" and for my first time I think they are ok. The lines are a bit thick. I had to redo the BUNKER text as well, and touch up most colors around the "C" as I had to sand down my first attempt at leveling it with some clear coat. Overall I'm really happy with the result, especially compared to my old playfield.

I do have another playfield that I might do the same work to if someone is interested. It isn't in as good of shape, has some yellowing that should hopefully sand off but maybe someone else wants a refurbished playfield who has a crappy one now. My old one isn't worth saving but I can harvest the inserts from it I need to fix the spare one I have.

In hindsight I would have done the HAO letters as well as they are cloudy compared to the others.

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The gate I make hooks into the the existing gate 2 bulb wiring, and I don't believe the lights stay steady on for much during the game, they're usually flashing. So if I used flickering LEDs the effect wouldn't really come through.

It would be possible to tie the top two 5mm LEDs into the GI and make those flicker LEDs always on and then leave the other 6 middle LED's to do the flashing. Once I wrap up the other mods, I'll revisit the gate some more.

How long til you start repopulating the top side?

Does anybody have a lower spring cover for t-rex for sale or know what to make one out of?
I tried to make my own out of a piece of rubber from work, but it was too thick and would not let the rex bend all the way down.

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Cool, yeah, I figured I would probably need to do some manual reconfiguration. If you want some flickering LEDs I'll send you som, I have like 10 left over at least. But yeah, I figured I would tie in to the GI.

HA!... well, it's like my 3rd pinball project going on, so... the 2X Spraymax guys are telling me to let the playfield cure for 2 weeks before sanding. That doesn't make a ton of sense to me as I was sanding coats within a few hours and I don't see car repair places letting them cure, it's automotive paint afterall. So, waiting to decide on that... but I have to do all of the wiring on the bottom, replace sockets, etc. So probably at least a week or so.

There are different thickness hole protectors out there. The latest cliffys I got was significantly thinner than the previous protectors on the game. The cliffys are “hyper thin” now. For jp it should impact play because they sit so flat and there aren’t really roll in shots.

Super slick PDFs and powerful flippers are going to bang more shots out than the protectors these days

I put comet 2smd "ice blue" in my pops and and they lightup a nice green. (Phone pic doesn't do it justice as usual)

As far as the cliffys go I had to move my control room/bunker trough back as far as possible, after that I don't find it that hard to hit, not as easy as without, don't get the lazy drop ins but not too many rejects of a good shot either.
The power shed is the only one that I wouldn't mind having the easy ones drop into, I might take that one off because it doesn't take as much of a beating as the other two.
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Has anybody put shorter legs on or know of some that would work?
My JP is a about 2" taller than my LWJP next to it.
Also trying to get the pitch to 6.5 I feel like I have to crank the rear levelers up way higher than I should have to, the previous owner put some red legs on the front but they are 28.5", same as the rear.

I recall sending ChadH an outline of mine and he was planning to make one. If he did, he might recall what material he used.

Maybe an inner tube of a bicycle tire?

Playfield porn? Just finished polishing it after restore and clear.

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I have this other playfield that I am not sure what I will do with. I could maybe restore it like the one above or sell it as it is. You can probably see from the pic it is yellowed. I am thinking this is a clear coat that is crap. So I plan to sand and re-clear. It is missing one insert I think (the S) and I have another playfield I can grab it from and the artwork already made for the waterslide. I can include those things if I sell it as is. Is there interest in a used playfield? I assume so since no one is making them.
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Pm'd

Thanks for hitting me back up, I was going to look you up.

You should always fill the scoop damage before installing cliffy's or they're going to deform and cause issues with slow rollers. It looks like your C scoop cliffy might be starting to bend already.

Yeah I know. I'll fix them if I replace this set or I'll just take them off until I find a fresh PF.

After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.

Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun!

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Very nice

This is very cool work.

Awesome! Nice work.

Excellent! Looks great

Looks great. Well done. Let us know when they will be for sale and how to buy them

Have you checked the switch at the gate entry? Seems like the important one at the top works. Not sure if they both need to be triggered in order for it to work?

That's the only thought I have since it sounds like the coil still works. Other than that, I can't think of anything else that would prevent it right now.

Yup, just waiting on some of the flasher bulb holders from Macro then I'll have 5 of the T-Rex boxes ready to go. Hopefully sometime next week.

I can sell them without the bulb holder right now if people are willing to take out the existing bulb holder from their game (requires you to drill or grind it out of the metal box).

I'll work on getting a pinside store set up tonight to host all the items. They're going to be listed at (USD) $65 for the T-Rex box ($60 w/o the bulb holder). $40 for the gun topper. I'll also put up my JP static gate for $100 and some palm trees with bases for $5/each. Shipping is going to be $15 for North America (tracked/insured). Outside NA it'll be whatever the actual rate Canada Post charges me. You can combine any of the items for the same flat rate.

I'm still working on the electric fence. Now that I have some decal paper I'm going to add something to make the wire area a bit more interesting. I'm also waiting on some #555 sockets to allow it to wire up to the Electric Fence mode without having to modify anything on your game.

No brainer buy, you can count on me for a box and gun once the shop is up.

Sorry no other thoughts. It's not engaging and closing before the ball gets to it, is it? If the diverter works in testing, then sounds like you're either not completing the necessary steps to activate it during a game, or maybe you're using old code that may have an issue with those rules?

The 28.5" are the correct length. You could put new Stern legs on the back which are 30.5". My back levelers are way up. Probably 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" of the 3" leveler is sticking out of the leg.

Good to know yours are that high too, thanks.
I may just put the 30.5" on the rear that's not a bad idea.
I was hoping to lower the whole machine a little for kids and my short girlfriend but i dont remember ever seeing any 26.5" legs, guess I could have them cut and welded.

Can anyone post any pictures of their coin door wiring? I bought a Jurassic Park and they seemed to have wired the coin door oddly. I’d like the get the coin mech working

Hello everyone. Got some cool news (or at least I think its cool). lol
I am starting a YouTube channel that will be mostly dedicated to pinball restoration. Many of you have followed my restoration threads and I appreciate all the feedback. It's fun so I thought I would expand a little bit. I will still have my restore threads but I hope to add videos that compliment and show what and how I do things instead of just pictures.
Jurassic Park makes an appearance in one of my first videos as I show how to fix a Rottendog flipper board that I installed in my JP. Simple fix but it might help someone.
I have a few videos up and would appreciate any comments. Keep in mind that I am just starting this so I will get better. Please be gentle.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPh4fgdB6s2clf50tpaMwSg

You are a pro! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Awesome! I gave your channel a shout out on Facebook. Just wish you had started before you did JP lol

Nice! As a budding pinball refurbisher (can’t call myself a restorer yet) I’ll be watching! See you at TPF!

So I have been part of the club for a month or so and I have two tweaks that I can’t figure out.

1. The ball get stuck behind trex when it slowly rolls back from the right (picture is of the post to see if it is the right size).

2. When riding the right ramp it flies around and jumps off of the ramp after the divider 20% of the time. Picture shown over the top of the pop bumper, what should go there?

Game is level.

Thanks,

Dave

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Take the screw out of the spacer over the pop bumper, that should just be a spacer there holding the rail up. Your T rex area looks correct, I would try to loosen it slightly and push the sleeve towards the back of the machine to test to see if moving it prevents the ball from hanging up there.

So I put that screw in to try and level it, when I got the machine nothing was there. What is the part number so I can buy one?

Sweet I will give that a try.

FYI I think Asmig is referring to the hex spacer that is already there, saying just take the screw out and that's all you need to do. Oddly, mine does not have the spacer at all and I have no problems with the ramp.

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