(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

7 years ago


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There are 8785 posts in this topic. You are on page 124 of 176.
#6151 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm gonna stop replying "awesome" to every update, just assume that I'm posting that each time.

Haha, I appreciate everyone's enthusiasm. I'm really happy that so many people are interested in these. This game definitely deserves some cool mods. I've got another one in my head involving Mr. DNA for the left hand scoop. But I know a lot of people already have the loop combo mod, so I'm not sure how easily I can get it to play nice with that one.

#6152 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I guess that's pinball for you, but I went to play JP for the first time in forever, and 50 amp fuse blew, flippers were unresponsive and actually for some reason the flipper buttons were activating the raptor pit rod... and one of the main power fuse clips broke during my investigation. Who knows when I'll have time to fix this.

Q4 that drives the raptor pit on the PPB board had shorted. This was blowing the main 50v fuse which disables flippers and some. Something about the fault allowed flipper buttons to activate the raptor pit, I guess with some lower voltage. I'm not going to take the time to diagnose further. I'm up and running again.

#6153 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Q4 that drives the raptor pit on the PPB board had shorted. This was blowing the main 50v fuse which disables flippers and some. Something about the fault allowed flipper buttons to activate the raptor pit, I guess with some lower voltage. I'm not going to take the time to diagnose further. I'm up and running again.

Excellent!

#6154 2 years ago

Ok, whatever happens next i'm not admitting to my wife that she's right that i am a little colorblind

She says the signs on JP are dark green behind the logo??

You see black also right?
H3257-L96345893 (resized).jpg

#6155 2 years ago

Looks black to me

#6156 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Ok, whatever happens next i'm not admitting to my wife that she's right that i am a little colorblind
She says the signs on JP are dark green behind the logo??
You see black also right?
[quoted image]

Looks to be a different shade when compared to the black of the rectangle with the dino name in it. I would say it is a deep green.

#6157 2 years ago

Awhile back I designed some 3D printed pop bumper caps for Getaway, and have sold several sets. Got me thinking about JP, as I'm not a huge fan of the current ones it has even though the amber matches the theme. Anyway, here are the first results. I kept the tick marks on the cap which are in classic Williams style, but I think I’m going to get rid of them for this pin (just have the black dino on top). They do take 3 hours each to print, so thus far I've only done one to see what it looked like (also gives a good side-by-side comparison to the OEM caps).

Anyway, I sell them for $25 for the set of 3 which includes shipping to the US (will quote shipping for outside US), so PM me if interested. They match perfectly to my yellow Titan rings, and I like the soft glow they produce. I can also do custom designs if you have something in mind. BTW, due to heat, you must use LEDs in your pops if you install these caps.

IMG_2199.JPGIMG_2200.JPGIMG_2180.JPGIMG_2182.JPGIMG_2186.JPGIMG_2189.JPG

#6158 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Ok, whatever happens next i'm not admitting to my wife that she's right that i am a little colorblind
She says the signs on JP are dark green behind the logo??
You see black also right?
[quoted image]

I think it's a reflection of the grass around the sign. I'm guessing the sign was painted in a gloss black, so it would reflect the grass around it causing the dark greenish look.

That's the story I'm telling myself

#6159 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Ok, whatever happens next i'm not admitting to my wife that she's right that i am a little colorblind
She says the signs on JP are dark green behind the logo??
You see black also right?
[quoted image]

Couple years ago I bought an enamel pin set. The island color does seem to be a dark green. Came out a little lighter with the flash.

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#6160 2 years ago

This continues to get deeper...

#6161 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

I think it's a reflection of the grass around the sign. I'm guessing the sign was painted in a gloss black, so it would reflect the grass around it causing the dark greenish look.
That's the story I'm telling myself

#6162 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Couple years ago I bought an enamel pin set. The island color does seem to be a dark green. Came out a little lighter with the flash.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This raises the question if the outline and circle background are supposed to be orange instead of red (or is that just the camera)?

#6163 2 years ago

Women see color better than men. It's probably dark green.

#6164 2 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Women see color better than men. It's probably dark green.

Scientifically, they have better cones while we have better rods.

#6165 2 years ago

One coat of gloss before I start working on the lifting and missing decals.

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#6166 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

One coat of gloss before I start working on the lifting and missing decals.
[quoted image]

That is looking very nice.

#6167 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

One coat of gloss before I start working on the lifting and missing decals.
[quoted image]

Wow very nice, how did you do the clear coat? DIY spray gun?

#6168 2 years ago

The installation of my trough opto board went quickly and seems to be working well. The mounting holes aligned with the screw holes for me, so no modifications were needed. Thanks, @Davi!

#6169 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Wow very nice, how did you do the clear coat? DIY spray gun?

Thanks. SprayMax 2X from the can, 2 part. I'm about *this* close to buying some auto clear 2 part since I have spray equipment but I just don't do it enough and the SprayMax works pretty darn well.

#6170 2 years ago

Not the best ever but I had to restore the "S" in Chaos (and then later the "C".. it was ghosting and the "stick down with clear" method did not work). I think from a distance it looks ok, close up looks like a 10 year old colored it. I did a waterslide decal but it wasn't anywhere close to black enough so I painted over it with acrylic.

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#6171 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks. SprayMax 2X from the can, 2 part. I'm about *this* close to buying some auto clear 2 part since I have spray equipment but I just don't do it enough and the SprayMax works pretty darn well.

I believe theres a topic on the spraying auto clear somewhere, but looking good allready!

#6172 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

I believe theres a topic on the spraying auto clear somewhere, but looking good allready!

Vid's guide to restoring playfields has everything you ever wanted to know really. I just have anxiety about dealing with stuff that isn't water soluble (cleaning up, thinning, etc) and needing all the stuff to do that. The 2X seems to do a really good job and for $20 it's hard to beat. If I was doing this regularly I would probably invest more time and energy.

#6173 2 years ago

I was hoping you were going to say Spraymax lol. I plan on using it on the F-14 that I’m restoring. I can’t justify buying all the spray equipment for one playfield and have read some good stuff about the canned 2 part stuff on here. You’ve just cemented my choice.

#6174 2 years ago

My internet has been down since yesterday so I’ve had a lot of time to work on my mods. I’ve got the T. rex stand all figured out. I made a custom insert with 4 red LEDs that replaces the T. rex light. It’s plug and play with the stock wiring. Just have to print the decals and I think I’m done!

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#6175 2 years ago

My oh my, you get this stuff done so fast. Crazy.

#6176 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

My internet has been down since yesterday so I’ve had a lot of time to work on my mods. I’ve got the T. rex stand all figured out. I made a custom insert with 4 red LEDs that replaces the T. rex light. It’s plug and play with the stock wiring. Just have to print the decals and I think I’m done!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job. It seems you have to switch off internet on a regular basis

#6177 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

The installation of my trough opto board went quickly and seems to be working well. The mounting holes aligned with the screw holes for me, so no modifications were needed. Thanks, @Davi!

Thanks - I am really happy to read this.

#6178 2 years ago

Put in all the mods just now, I am really happy with how everything came out. I think the scale of everything works really nicely now. I couldn’t get the EL to work the way I wanted it to so I went with yellow LEDs and thin wire instead. The gun is tied into the GI because I realized that it would be pretty difficult to swing the playfield up if it was connected to the gun.

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#6179 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

My internet has been down since yesterday so I’ve had a lot of time to work on my mods. I’ve got the T. rex stand all figured out. I made a custom insert with 4 red LEDs that replaces the T. rex light. It’s plug and play with the stock wiring. Just have to print the decals and I think I’m done!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you just drill out the rivets on the existing box to reuse the light sockets?

#6180 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Put in all the mods just now, I am really happy with how everything came out. I think the scale of everything works really nicely now. I couldn’t get the EL to work the way I wanted it to so I went with yellow LEDs and thin wire instead. The gun is tied into the GI because I realized that it would be pretty difficult to swing the playfield up if it was connected to the gun.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice, and well done.

#6181 2 years ago

Guessing the answer is probably no, but can the box have a top?

#6182 2 years ago

3rd coat of clear setting. Then some 600/800/1000 or something (need to order that higher grit) and then some polishing with a buffing wheel. I'd say for a $40 rehab it's not too bad. Closely the touchups look like an amatuer did them (me!) but for a game without many playfield options and considering what my prior playfield looked like this is a huge upgrade.

Now I wish I sort of did the HAO in CHAOS with the waterslide as those are murky compared to the new ones. Oh well.

0520191519a (resized).jpg0520191519b (resized).jpg0520191519c (resized).jpg

#6183 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you just drill out the rivets on the existing box to reuse the light sockets?

Yup, but you only need to do it to the flasher, the spot light is bolted in. I’d recommend using a dremel with a grinding disk to take out the rivet though.

I need to try to source some of the flasher sockets with the right angle bracket. Anyone know where I can find them?

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Guessing the answer is probably no, but can the box have a top?

Yea I can put a top on the box if you’d like one. I’ll print one out next with the top on.

#6184 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Yea I can put a top on the box if you’d like one. I’ll print one out next with the top on.

Best modder of all time.

#6185 2 years ago

Hey folks, looking for some tips on getting T-Rex to more reliably pickup the ball.

Before T-Rex was eating the ball pretty reliably, but side to side was poor. I had the thing apart, cleaned and regreased the gearbox.. and side to side is pretty decent now. But T-Rex lately has gotten less reliable eating the ball. He tends to go down, teeth the ball and not get a full chomp and fails to grab it.

In test, the switches all activate as I think they should. And if I activate the jaw as soon as bottom switch activates and center switch is active, he eats the ball fine. Bottom switch is set to go off as t-rex is as low as I can make it. The center switch has virtually no adjustment play as the arm and throw is quite short.

In test it's fine... in game play he's inconsistent boot to boot. Sometimes I can see he is just a tad to the right from center like he's overshooting.. and I can reproduce it is harder for him to grab the ball in that position with test mode. But the amount he is different is so slight.. maybe 1/8" of an inch at the saucer. That's the only pattern I've been able to identify. The cam action seems fine.. but it's either slightly not far enough down, or slightly off center and he just teeths the ball.

Suggestions?

Also, does anyone have a map of where the flashing #44 bulbs are in the backbox from factory?

Thx!

#6186 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Hey folks, looking for some tips on getting T-Rex to more reliably pickup the ball.
Before T-Rex was eating the ball pretty reliably, but side to side was poor. I had the thing apart, cleaned and regreased the gearbox.. and side to side is pretty decent now. But T-Rex lately has gotten less reliable eating the ball. He tends to go down, teeth the ball and not get a full chomp and fails to grab it.
In test, the switches all activate as I think they should. And if I activate the jaw as soon as bottom switch activates and center switch is active, he eats the ball fine. Bottom switch is set to go off as t-rex is as low as I can make it. The center switch has virtually no adjustment play as the arm and throw is quite short.
In test it's fine... in game play he's inconsistent boot to boot. Sometimes I can see he is just a tad to the right from center like he's overshooting.. and I can reproduce it is harder for him to grab the ball in that position with test mode. But the amount he is different is so slight.. maybe 1/8" of an inch at the saucer. That's the only pattern I've been able to identify. The cam action seems fine.. but it's either slightly not far enough down, or slightly off center and he just teeths the ball.
Suggestions?
Also, does anyone have a map of where the flashing #44 bulbs are in the backbox from factory?
Thx!

A few things I've dealt with... machine tilt, this had an effect on my t-rex reliably picking up the ball. Saucer broken? That causes issue.

#6187 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

I need to try to source some of the flasher sockets with the right angle bracket. Anyone know where I can find them?

Try this

https://www.pinballlife.com/bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-laydown-mounting-bracket-for-89-bulbs.html

#6188 2 years ago

Perfect! Thanks! I'm going to order a bunch so that people don't need to remove the original one from their T-Rex boxes. When possible I like to make every mod reversible.

#6189 2 years ago

Well, it was too late to edit my old post regarding my pop bumper caps (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/124#post-5001956), so I apologize for the duplicate info. However, I've finalized the design, and I think they came out great. Maybe they are not for everyone, but I did want to offer them to others who might be interested.

I sell the set of 3 for $25 which includes shipping to the US (will quote shipping for outside US), so PM me if interested. I can also do custom designs and different colors if you have something in mind. BTW, due to heat, you must use LEDs in your pops if you install these caps.
IMG_2209.JPGIMG_2208.JPGIMG_2215.JPGIMG_2216.JPGIMG_2223.JPGIMG_2222.JPG

#6190 2 years ago

Has anyone found the ramp flap available premade anywhere?

#6191 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Has anyone found the ramp flap available premade anywhere?

ForceFlow suggested to call/email pinbits.com to see if they can help.

#6192 2 years ago

I've been replacing several of my LEDs from the previous owner's selection, and one that has made the biggest visual difference to me are the blues. I typically color match my LEDs to the inserts they go in, but the deep blue was really bugging me with the light blue/cyan colored circles around the inserts. I replaced all of the blue LEDs with Comet natural white LEDs, and now the blue inserts illuminate a light blue color that better matches the artwork.

Natural White (after)
f50a915c362f88f33447724a978a711b621a9f63.jpg

Blue (before)
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#6193 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

ForceFlow suggested to call/email pinbits.com to see if they can help.

I did and didn't hear back yet, but a local pinsider took a pic and measurements I did and made it last night, lol. The beauty of pinside.

#6194 2 years ago

I may switch my blue LEDs over to white for the same reason, I kind of prefer the light blue over the darker blue

#6195 2 years ago

I have white under mine. It shows really well in the big escape inserts.

#6196 2 years ago

anyone have a description or photo of how the wires to the coil operating the t-rex jaw are routed behind his head? Mine were pretty tight and show signs of previous work. There is a screw mounted zip tie to the left of the half moon plastic bracket.. and the wire is looping behind that bracket up to to the coil. The wire has to go somewhere when the t-rex is up, and not snag either, so it's a little bit important.

If you just tilt your t-rex down to the bite position, the wiring should be clear to see. The purple and black wires. Thx!

#6197 2 years ago

I've seen mention that Cliffy protectors make the hole shots more difficult. I realized I installed the protectors almost immediately after buying JP, so I've not really played without them. The other day I was playing, and I notice most of my shots to the holes end up unsuccessful and I never get through system shutdown. Getting through tri-ball into Chaos multi-ball is pretty difficult for me since often times a seemingly spot-on shot bounces back from the hole.

Anyone do any significant comparisons with and without Cliffy's?

Anyone without Cliffy's have frequent bounce back?

A change I just made was to remove Titan post rubbers and went back to Cliffy posts. Direct hits to the Titan posts send the ball flying into the air. This doesn't happen to the stiffer Cliffy posts. I haven't browsed Titan's offerings lately, so no clue if they now offer firmer posts than what I had. My Titan's were from when the company started offering the competition silicone line.

#6198 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've seen mention that Cliffy protectors make the hole shots more difficult. I realized I installed the protectors almost immediately after buying JP, so I've not really played without them. The other day I was playing, and I notice most of my shots to the holes end up unsuccessful and I never get through system shutdown. Getting through tri-ball into Chaos multi-ball is pretty difficult for me since often times a seemingly spot-on shot bounces back from the hole.
Anyone do any significant comparisons with and without Cliffy's?
Anyone without Cliffy's have frequent bounce back?
A change I just made was to remove Titan post rubbers and went back to Cliffy posts. Direct hits to the Titan posts send the ball flying into the air. This doesn't happen to the stiffer Cliffy posts. I haven't browsed Titan's offerings lately, so no clue if they now offer firmer posts than what I had. My Titan's were from when the company started offering the competition silicone line.

Interesting. I know Cliff just redesigned some of the JP set (I just bought the updated pieces) so I wonder if that changes anything. I also worried about this with my playfield swap and adding cliffys. I wonder if making the hole bigger and then adding the cliffys would change the dimension of the opening at all. Maybe bending them just a bit might open them up more or are they completely open in the hole already?

#6199 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've seen mention that Cliffy protectors make the hole shots more difficult. I realized I installed the protectors almost immediately after buying JP, so I've not really played without them. The other day I was playing, and I notice most of my shots to the holes end up unsuccessful and I never get through system shutdown. Getting through tri-ball into Chaos multi-ball is pretty difficult for me since often times a seemingly spot-on shot bounces back from the hole.
Anyone do any significant comparisons with and without Cliffy's?
Anyone without Cliffy's have frequent bounce back?
A change I just made was to remove Titan post rubbers and went back to Cliffy posts. Direct hits to the Titan posts send the ball flying into the air. This doesn't happen to the stiffer Cliffy posts. I haven't browsed Titan's offerings lately, so no clue if they now offer firmer posts than what I had. My Titan's were from when the company started offering the competition silicone line.

I've only played with cliffy posts on, so have nothing to compare it to. However, Data East Games with Scoop Holes like Jurassic Park are VERY prone to wear around the holes. Essentially, almost every shot into the hole will rub off a tiny bit of wood, especially in games where the scoop holes are close to the front... like Jurassic Park. The end result is that the scoop holes slowly get larger over time with Jurassic Park. Every game you play, the game is (slightly) easier because the hole is bigger. If you really want to make the game a little easier you can always add a post on the left outline. There should already be a pre-drilled hole here. Depending on how wide//how much rubber you leave on the outlanes you can much more finely tune the difficulty with this addition.

Long story short, if you don't use protection with your machine, your A hole is going to get a lot of wear and you have a very good probability of winding up with a gaping A hole... one that swallows balls whole with ease.

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