(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,578 posts
  • 439 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by harryhoudini
  • Topic is favorited by 187 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,807 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

JP Gate.gif
IMG_3709.JPG
IMG_3708.JPG
pasted_image (resized).png
4C5F7814-94C1-4047-BB53-58BD75EFB26B (resized).jpeg
C20DFB53-BAC1-45BA-B228-573FD06D5FF8 (resized).jpeg
Photo_-_Google_Photos (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_3693 (resized).JPG
IMG_3695.JPG
IMG_3692.JPG
IMG_3690.JPG
IMG_3691.JPG
20200325_154014 (resized).jpg
20200325_154043 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7578 posts in this topic. You are on page 121 of 152.
#6001 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

My plastics were all cracked and screws missing, so hard for me to say what was there, but I am fairly sure I didn't remove one there. And I realized the ones for the clear plastic by the VUK are still attached to the clear light dome, heh. I still don't see one for the ramp support, should be interesting when I put it back together.

Here’s the 3” (?) I’m referring to. I’d say it’s necessary as it’s the only support between the top and bottom of the ramp. image (resized).jpg

I didn’t take great tear down pics - obviously. But I can upload what I’ve got if you need them for reassembley of yours.

#6002 10 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Here’s the 3” (?) I’m referring to. I’d say it’s necessary as it’s the only support between the top and bottom of the ramp. [quoted image]
I didn’t take great tear down pics - obviously. But I can upload what I’ve got if you need them for reassembley of yours.

Thanks.. I took a crapton of pics but only from the "left" vantage point (the game is close to a wall) so I can't see what is under that side of the ramp, doh. I have to imagine it was there, like you said... just not sure where it went! I am going to toss a few sizes in my cart on PBL as I have like 150 other things in there waiting for an order.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6g6iG5t6FsTp88a37

I just found this pic, partially disassembled and I don't see where/how that standoff would mount. Weird.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP5bJzmssceoKuyA9

AHHH.. I see where it would go, better view shows the hole:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WMRFe9Rc3M4UsqUN9

#6003 10 months ago

So bummed about my paint job. Everything done except clearcoat, but it has been unusually cold and rainy here the last 3 days so I can't paint. Mothers Day is looking promising, however. I've had the pin torn down for two weeks now, and if I can finally paint tomorrow then I can put everything back together by next weekend.

Anyway, don't mean to moan too much, just having a little JP withdrawal.

#6004 10 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

sooo JP god's... I just finished shopping out my JP and bringing it back to factory (except for the captive ball which I did keep as the white ball) and my poor PF holes that were covered by cliffy's but I got tired of get cliffied on so many shots so I ripped them off.
BUT i've got a 3/4" metal hex spacer, double female, that was in my parts bucket and I purchased a new one from Terry and now I can't figure out where it goes... metal hex spacer = tall 6 sided spacer/post/thingy that screws into a PF post and has a screw go into the top of it.
anything?

How about this one? It is a ball trap preventer next to one of the pop bumpers.

Gord

DSCN3593 - Circle (resized).JPG
DSCN3595 - Circle (resized).JPG

#6005 10 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

How about this one? It is a ball trap preventer next to one of the pop bumpers.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Ding ding ding. We have a winner. Of course now it’s obvious in my pics.

Now I noticed that I’m missing that clear star/jewel post at the front... ugh

#6006 10 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Ding ding ding. We have a winner. Of course now it’s obvious in my pics.
Now I noticed that I’m missing that clear star/jewel post at the front... ugh

Well that's nice, I had neither of those things, lol. I never had issues with balls getting stuck, so must not be that crucial.

#6007 10 months ago

Anyone know if there is any issues w switching out standard 555 bulbs for the 455 in the back box? Just did an led swap and some of the 455s were out.

#6008 10 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Anyone know if there is any issues w switching out standard 555 bulbs for the 455 in the back box? Just did an led swap and some of the 455s were out.

Just changed them on mine. Comet has them,led.

#6009 10 months ago

Thanks I’ll order some. I didn’t know if there would be any problem using 555s other than not having the flash. I put some in for now but never had to use 455 before

#6010 10 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

How about this one? It is a ball trap preventer next to one of the pop bumpers.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looking at this pic again compared to mine (https://photos.app.goo.gl/AN4xk8T4H43VXaDM7) it looks like my light bracket is mounted the other way around. Not sure how that could change unless I re-riveted the light housings to the bracket. Guess this explains why I don't have the clear post. I wonder how that happened.. factory change?

#6011 10 months ago

I've had my Jurassic Park since 1994, and it was bought new for home use before I got it. It doesn't have the clear post, but the plastic has a hole there to add one. In 25yrs not once has a ball got stuck there.

#6012 10 months ago

I've had my JP since 2015. Did a completely tear down shortly after I got it. But the one thing I didn't touch was the Trex. It worked perfectly, and looked complicated enough that even if I put it back together correctly, I felt that I would have messed up how it's settled over time and wouldn't be back to 100%.

This weekend while playing my JP quite a bit, the VUK started to shoot the ball weakly, and then started to take multiple tries, and now multiple tries and the ball gets stuck back in the subway.

So I opened it up, and took out the subway to see if I could spot why or what the ball was hitting and not making a solid shot. Still no idea.

But while looking around, I was inspecting the underside of the Trex, wondering if I should actually take it apart and clean all the mechanical pieces up. Especially the gears of the side to side motion, and noticed a previous hack. Someone at one point stuck a tiny folded piece of paper in the microswitch for the return-to-center switch.

Seeing it, I kinda want to fix it, but again, wouldn't know if I would actually make it worse once I took it apart.

I kinda wanna see what's printed on the paper though. I can see there's at least one word on it.

2019-05-12 17.25.43 (resized).jpg2019-05-12 17.25.52 (resized).jpg
#6013 10 months ago

I'm looking for someone to either make or sell me an East Dock sign mod for my JP. timspinballmods.com doesn't seem to have them anymore.

#6014 10 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

I'm looking for someone to either make or sell me an East Dock sign mod for my JP. timspinballmods.com doesn't seem to have them anymore.

I want to say mr_tantrum makes/sells those now

#6015 10 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

I want to say mr_tantrum makes/sells those now

Thanks for pointing me out for the sign. weasel671 just placed his order with me.

#6016 10 months ago

Spent some time this afternoon installing my Electric Fence mod. It’s 3D printed to match the fence in the original movie. It has an EL wire hooked up to a 12v adapter plugged into the service port, 2 red LEDs that mimic the T. rex shot lamp and 4 yellow & blue LEDs that mimic the electric fence mode lamp. What do you guys think?

6EB5F6FA-A4B1-40FB-8B0B-91D71E62A0BB (resized).jpeg
#6017 10 months ago

I would say as a concept it is great, and I love seeing someone actually developing something people in this thread have been discussing and wishing for.

However, to offer constructive criticism it looks a little bulky, and I wonder about the view from the player's perspective (how much of T-Rex does it block?) I would work on a design that thins the width of the 3 posts (maybe the two outers to the same width as the LEDs with the middle even thinner), and I would use thinner cables (e.g. maybe some straight piano wire instead of looping back whatever thicker material you are using now. Using really thin piano wire would not be as visually blocking and you might even be able to add an extra cable or two. If you were able to use 5-6V LEDs then you could just jumper them off a nearby GI light socket.

FpmSJ.jpg

#6018 10 months ago

I've been having some issues with the ball getting stuck in the right corner of the T Rex metal area, above the saucer. If I hit the area hard the ball hits the left side of the saucer area and jumps up into the upper metal area and gets stuck in that right corner. I have to tilt the machine to get the ball to feed back down which of course causes the machine to tilt.

Any ideas?

#6019 10 months ago

I'm not sure if it's possible, but an electric fence mod would be best if it ran the course of the ramp, starting in the back and running up the left side. It would have to be thinner and likely a bit shorter than the one posted above.

#6020 10 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I'm not sure if it's possible, but an electric fence mod would be best if it ran the course of the ramp, starting in the back and running up the left side. It would have to be thinner and likely a bit shorter than the one posted above.

You mean around the inside edge of the plastic ramp behind the T-Rex?

#6021 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I would say as a concept it is great, and I love seeing someone actually developing something people in this thread have been discussing and wishing for.
However, to offer constructive criticism it looks a little bulky, and I wonder about the view from the player's perspective (how much of T-Rex does it block?) I would work on a design that thins the width of the 3 posts (maybe the two outers to the same width as the LEDs with the middle even thinner), and I would use thinner cables (e.g. maybe some straight piano wire instead of looping back whatever thicker material you are using now. Using really thin piano wire would not be as visually blocking and you might even be able to add an extra cable or two. If you were able to use 5-6V LEDs then you could just jumper them off a nearby GI light socket.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the feedback. My original concept was to use a thin stranded wire instead of the EL, so maybe I’ll build that one too for comparison. That will let me thin out the posts like you said.

I’m currently using EL wire that lights up so it required thicker posts and supports to accommodate it.

From the players perspective it doesn’t block the T-Rex in the upright position but it does block the saucer a bit, that’s why I added the red LEDs to match the shot light.
I was also thinking of making a version that replaces the T. rex shot when lit box that way it doesn’t interfere with the T. rex at all. I just have to figure out a way to integrate the spot light.

The only problem with tying into GI is that they become just static. I like having them match up with game modes.

#6022 10 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

I’m currently using EL wire that lights up so it required thicker posts and supports to accommodate it.

I didn't understand that, and couldn't tell from the pic that it was illuminated. Cool idea. Also, I didn't understand that your LEDs weren't static.

Maybe a video would convey things a little better?

#6023 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I've been having some issues with the ball getting stuck in the right corner of the T Rex metal area, above the saucer. If I hit the area hard the ball hits the left side of the saucer area and jumps up into the upper metal area and gets stuck in that right corner. I have to tilt the machine to get the ball to feed back down which of course causes the machine to tilt.
Any ideas?

Make sure the upper plate is screwed down all the way and that the game is level.

#6024 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Make sure the upper plate is screwed down all the way and that the game is level.

I was just emailing Cliffy. He now has a newly made hole protector for T-Rex. FYI

#6025 10 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I was just emailing Cliffy. He now has a newly made hole protector for T-Rex. FYI

Pics? I don't see it on his site. Is this just for the lower wood area around the eject hole? Wondering how it would affect the ball getting stuck in the upper platform.

#6026 10 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I'm not sure if it's possible, but an electric fence mod would be best if it ran the course of the ramp, starting in the back and running up the left side. It would have to be thinner and likely a bit shorter than the one posted above.

You thinking something like this? You could definitely follow the contour of the ramp between where the line changes on the plastic at both ends. I don't really know much about how to execute the lighting, but I'd be willing to help and/or take on the fence design to follow the contour. In my mind, it would affix to the front lip of the plastic ramp. First step would be to remove the ramp and trace the curve - not sure how fun that is to do (I'd probably build a cardboard template and trace onto it with the ramp installed).

trexfence.jpg

#6027 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Pics? I don't see it on his site. Is this just for the lower wood area around the eject hole? Wondering how it would affect the ball getting stuck in the upper platform.

He will send pics,just ask.They sure cleanup a hole area.

#6028 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You thinking something like this? You could definitely follow the contour of the ramp between where the line changes on the plastic at both ends. I don't really know much about how to execute the lighting, but I'd be willing to help and/or take on the fence design to follow the contour. In my mind, it would affix to the front lip of the plastic ramp. First step would be to remove the ramp and trace the curve - not sure how fun that is to do (I'd probably build a cardboard template and trace onto it with the ramp installed).
[quoted image]

That would look AWESOME. How about a matching static gate over the ramp entrance? Since Tim's isn't available anymore could be a nice accompaniment.

#6029 10 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

what's the point of a PF protector? JP really doesn't see much wear besides the scoops. I can't think of an example I've seen that's shown PF wear except for the scoops which can be protected by Cliffys. IMO - save your effort for something else. Adjusting the switches alone makes putting on a protector a hard sell in my book.
The ramp is easy peasy to remove. Nice heavy plastic makes it pretty durable to any twisting or whatever you need to do to get it out.

Adjusting switches is like the easiest thing to do in pinball, and usually doesnt need to be done.

I've got paint coming off by the t-rex scoop area and starting to wear through on the shooter lane. It's been getting worse despite new pinballs and regular cleaning / waxing.

#6030 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You thinking something like this? You could definitely follow the contour of the ramp between where the line changes on the plastic at both ends. I don't really know much about how to execute the lighting, but I'd be willing to help and/or take on the fence design to follow the contour. In my mind, it would affix to the front lip of the plastic ramp. First step would be to remove the ramp and trace the curve - not sure how fun that is to do (I'd probably build a cardboard template and trace onto it with the ramp installed).
[quoted image]

That would work, but would it be better for sight lines to have it along the outside of that ramp? I like your drawing just for it being longer. One section doesn't give much of a fenced-in appearance.

#6031 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How about a matching static gate over the ramp entrance? Since Tim's isn't available anymore could be a nice accompaniment.

@Geteos is your man for the new static gate: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/108#post-4886785

#6032 10 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

That would work, but would it be better for sight lines to have it along the outside of that ramp? I like your drawing just for it being longer. One section doesn't give much of a fenced-in appearance.

From first glance, the issue is the vertical bend in the plastic ramp. If you look closely, you'll see a nice level section on the curve and at either end there is a vertical rise. My idea would be to run the fence the entire length between the two vertical rises in the plastic lip. I don't know about on the backside of the ramp as space may be restrictive (I'll have to look closer).

#6033 10 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

That would work, but would it be better for sight lines to have it along the outside of that ramp? I like your drawing just for it being longer. One section doesn't give much of a fenced-in appearance.

Okay, after looking more closely, the fence would definitely have to be affixed to the inside of the ramp due to spacing constraints, and it could run to between the two portions of the ramp where the lip waves/elevates.

Big question is if I or someone else designs it and is able to produce it, is anyone going to be willing to pay for it? For this type of item, I would assume a selling price of at or above $100.

ridges.jpg
fence.jpg

#6034 10 months ago

I think its an awesome idea. I agree its a little bulky, I also have my goat in that same spot so I like the idea of it following the ramp like posted above. It's kinda tricky I like that you have it close to the pops for Electric Fence mode. Maybe a way to incorporate both.

#6035 10 months ago

I modeled up a revised thinner version removing the EL-wire portion and replacing it with piano wire, but keeping the 4 warning lights and the two lights in the base. I set it up to print over night but forgot to check on it this morning. I'll have a look when I get home from work this afternoon.

My idea right now is to wire up the blue/yellow warning lights to the T-Rex shot and then hook up the two base lights to either the pop bumpers or into the Electric Fence mode light. What would people prefer?

Wrapping the fence along the entire back section might be a bit tricky as I don't think there are a lot of places to anchor it. Although EL wire along the whole back section would look pretty neat. That would be quite the $$$ mod though. I think sub $100 mods are a lot more palpable for most people.

#6036 10 months ago

Thats pretty slick bro!

Piano wire is going to look awesome. Screw el wire, this aint tron!

Looking forward to the end product...

#6037 10 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

I modeled up a revised thinner version removing the EL-wire portion and replacing it with piano wire, but keeping the 4 warning lights and the two lights in the base. I set it up to print over night but forgot to check on it this morning. I'll have a look when I get home from work this afternoon.
My idea right now is to wire up the blue/yellow warning lights to the T-Rex shot and then hook up the two base lights to either the pop bumpers or into the Electric Fence mode light. What would people prefer?
Wrapping the fence along the entire back section might be a bit tricky as I don't think there are a lot of places to anchor it. Although EL wire along the whole back section would look pretty neat. That would be quite the $$$ mod though. I think sub $100 mods are a lot more palpable for most people.

I'm going to work on the back fence version after I get a couple of other projects knocked out. I already know how I will anchor it, will need to figure out how best to print (will need to be in pieces that assemble together), and also thinking through the blue & amber indicator lighting (I assume 3mm LEDs, but not sure how best to connect them or have them interact). Since it is in back of everything, the EL lighted cables might be well suited.

#6038 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm going to work on the back fence version after I get a couple of other projects knocked out. I already know how I will anchor it, will need to figure out how best to print (will need to be in pieces that assemble together), and also thinking through the blue & amber indicator lighting (I assume 3mm LEDs, but not sure how best to connect them or have them interact). Since it is in back of everything, the EL lighted cables might be well suited.

Cool yea I saw that your working on a getaway supercharger chaser with the assignable led strips. I’ve got that project on my list too lol, parts are sitting waiting for install.

I’m using 3mm LEDs for the warning lights and 5mm for the base. To keep a thin profile I think 3mm are the max.

EL needs 12V DC so it’s a bit trickier getting it tapped in and interactive, otherwise I would’ve just hooked it into the GI. I feel EL makes it look more “electric.” I originally planned to tap the bumper lights and have the wires flash to match them. I think I figured out the wiring (12v zener diode + resistor) to make that work. The tricky part is making it plug and play. My current version requires some soldering on the back end.

#6039 10 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Cool yea I saw that your working on a getaway supercharger chaser with the assignable led strips. I’ve got that project on my list too lol, parts are sitting waiting for install.
I’m using 3mm LEDs for the warning lights and 5mm for the base. To keep a thin profile I think 3mm are the max.
EL needs 12V DC so it’s a bit trickier getting it tapped in and interactive, otherwise I would’ve just hooked it into the GI. I feel EL makes it look more “electric.” I originally planned to tap the bumper lights and have the wires flash to match them. I think I figured out the wiring (12v zener diode + resistor) to make that work. The tricky part is making it plug and play. My current version requires some soldering on the back end.

How were you going to light the upper blue/amber lights? Most of what I find in 3mm pre wired (save a ton of time) are 12V. I can easily tap them into a 12V source for power, but thought they could possibly interact someway with the game. Alternatively, if there is a way to wire them to where they are always on, but alternately flash then that would be cools along with the EL wire attached to one of the pops (not sure which).

For your connectors, can you not use alligator clips for a non-soldering option (I typically use the Matrix ones from Comet)?

Idea for mounting the fence is rather simple. Would design a base in sections (similar to what you have done), but print with a slot on the back that fits snuggly over the front ridge of the plastic ramp. That would give it vertical support, then would just use clear mounting tape below the ridge to adhere the backside of the fence base to the front side of the clear ramp (would not even be noticeable from just about every vantage point).

#6040 10 months ago

Right now I solder 2 leds in series along with a resistor (forgot its rating) and tap into the 6.3v 555 insert bulb for electric fence mode. It flashes when the mode is up next and stays lit when you’re in the mode.

Thinking about it, it might make more sense to tie those 3mm warning lights into the T. rex shot and use the base lights to flash with pops or electric fence mode.

If I keep the EL wire it also could serve as an indicator of electric fence mode or could be lit all the time. I haven’t figured out the wiring to keep something lit and have it flash. I’m guessing I’d need some sort of relay to get this kind of function. Arduino or Tiny could do something like this for sure but then the barrier to entry becomes higher.

#6042 10 months ago

Cliffy updated the whole set, but really it's just the power shed scoop and adding the 2pc shooter eject and t-rex hole. He charged me like $32 to augment the set I already have.

JP-2019-PS-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-TRex-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-ejects-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-full-set-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-scoops-001 (resized).JPG
#6043 10 months ago

I think you'd be surprised how much people will pay for a nice mod, $100 is right in the neighborhood of most decent mods.

#6044 10 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Right now I solder 2 leds in series along with a resistor (forgot its rating) and tap into the 6.3v 555 insert bulb for electric fence mode. It flashes when the mode is up next and stays lit when you’re in the mode.
Thinking about it, it might make more sense to tie those 3mm warning lights into the T. rex shot and use the base lights to flash with pops or electric fence mode.
If I keep the EL wire it also could serve as an indicator of electric fence mode or could be lit all the time. I haven’t figured out the wiring to keep something lit and have it flash. I’m guessing I’d need some sort of relay to get this kind of function. Arduino or Tiny could do something like this for sure but then the barrier to entry becomes higher.

I definitely think the electrical setup is the most challenging for an electric gate mode. Although I obviously haven't done anything with the model yet, but in my head I don't see anything that can't be overcome.

#6045 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, after looking more closely, the fence would definitely have to be affixed to the inside of the ramp due to spacing constraints, and it could run to between the two portions of the ramp where the lip waves/elevates.
Big question is if I or someone else designs it and is able to produce it, is anyone going to be willing to pay for it? For this type of item, I would assume a selling price of at or above $100.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Only concern I have is if it will clutter everything up in that area--any way to remove the "Shoot T-Rex" box by combining it's signage and light alert into the fence as well? I see it as almost a single red alert light at the top of a fence post near the current "Shoot T-Rex" box area. I always thought that box was something that could be removed and the space repurposed.

#6046 10 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Only concern I have is if it will clutter everything up in that area--any way to remove the "Shoot T-Rex" box by combining it's signage and light alert into the fence as well? I see it as almost a single red alert light at the top of a fence post near the current "Shoot T-Rex" box area. I always thought that box was something that could be removed and the space repurposed.

Yes, this is definitely possible. I was looking at the box and I could integrate the spot light into the design, it would be plug and play since the lamp uses flat connectors. Same with the red flasher, which I'm already using in my design. The flasher socket is soldered so it would have to be chopped out. It's riveted to the box too, so cutting the wire seems like the easiest solution to remove it from the area. It would have to be soldered back on if someone wanted to remove the mod.

I test fit V2 of the fence without the EL wire this evening. I uploaded 2 pictures to show the difference between the two. I printed it in brown because I'm starting to run out of grey filament. I used 2 different wires since I had both on hand to check. The silver wire will probably work better because it will reflect more of the base lighting. Next version will have slightly thicker posts to stiffen the structure up a bit. I'm afraid that it might break by a fly ball with the current thicknesses.

Here's a video of the EL version in full operation in case anyone was curious how the flashers work in V1.

IMG_2257 (resized).jpgIMG_2299 (resized).jpgIMG_7667 (resized).jpg
#6047 10 months ago

Does someone have an extra ramp they are willing to sell? Can be scratched, have broken pieces etc. Pm me please if you do

#6048 10 months ago

The day has finally come . . . my new JP paint job is finished.
I love the way it came out, and it really screams "Come play me,
but watch out!"

IMG_7503.JPGIMG_7504.JPGIMG_7505.JPGIMG_7507.JPG
#6049 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

The day has finally come . . . my new JP paint job is finished.
I love the way it came out, and it really screams "Come play me,
but watch out!"
[quoted image][att=4993543,1601134
caption=""][quoted image][att=4993543,1601137
caption=""]

WOAH... crazy. Now you need to heat up your backboard plastic and bend it up (lol, pet peeve.. mine has been hanging down forever)

#6050 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

WOAH... crazy. Now you need to heat up your backboard plastic and bend it up (lol, pet peeve.. mine has been hanging down forever)

The sign is bowed in the middle for effect which may be giving a false appearance as the backboard plastic is perfectly flat (if I'm understanding correctly what you are referring to).

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 5,899.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 149.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
There are 7578 posts in this topic. You are on page 121 of 152.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside