Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I saw something not too long ago where a guy did a restore, and actually had vinyl decals made which he applied to the black cabinet and then clear coated. Can't remember if it was its own thread on in a general thread somewhere, but it looked great.
Yeah, I'm talking with him actually but it sounds expensive to get cut. Lots of vinyl, 3 colors. Contemplating it.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, I'm talking with him actually but it sounds expensive to get cut. Lots of vinyl, 3 colors. Contemplating it.
You could always go "all in" and send it off to HEP: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You could always go "all in" and send it off to HEP: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18
Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.
I actually did a poor man's restoration of my Getaway a couple of years ago. I left the pin in place, sat it on a table and removed hardware, gave it a light sanding all over, did touch up paint and a few wood fills, then applied vinyl decals which I printed at a very reasonable price by a Pinsider in the printing business (I had the artwork - much less than anywhere I could find the decals). Is it a museum piece? No. Is it significantly better than what it was before and does it look nice? Absolutely.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.
I forgot the "sarcasm" emoticon on my post 
Actually, just a cheap way for me to expose HEP to those who may not be aware. His work is incredible, but you must be willing to put much more into a pin than it will ever be worth to others. Kind of reminds me of people who spend six figures on a 1970-1980's car restoration when they could have gone out and bought a brand new high performance car for less money. Just depends on what you are passionate about and what emotes more than just the item itself.
Will the guy share the artwork with you? If so, I could refer you to the Pinsider that did my graphics who was very reasonable. Not to mention, we talked on the phone for about an hour just about pinball. I always like doing pinball business with people that are actually into the hobby.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.
Lonzo did decals when he did his restore. Kcz did decals too https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/to-clearcoat-or-not-to-clearcoat-that-is-the-question-#post-4956787
Retro refurbs sells whole decals
Quoted from edward472:Lonzo did decals when he did his restore. Kcz did decals too https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/to-clearcoat-or-not-to-clearcoat-that-is-the-question-#post-4956787
Retro refurbs sells whole decals
Talking with Lorenzo now, thanks. Yeah, the RR ones were the only option I saw. Would love some radcals but not made yet.
JP is the perfect candidate for Radcals, the corners are already black...
I wouldn't think it would be a tough game to stencil, I lucked out and got a sweet set of Phoenix arcade decals for mine, super high quality, you could put feelers out and see If there is another set floating around out there but I know it was a limited run.
Quoted from J-Freeze:JP is the perfect candidate for Radcals, the corners are already black...
I wouldn't think it would be a tough game to stencil, I lucked out and got a sweet set of Phoenix arcade decals for mine, super high quality, you could put feelers out and see If there is another set floating around out there but I know it was a limited run.
I stenciled my Cyclone, 2 colors instead of three but black background, and it was a PAIN. It was my first time but even still I had a bear of a time getting the paint to lay down opaque enough and removing the stencils leaving enough time to get all the coats of paint down before he stencils pulled off the edges of paint. I don't think I'll ever do it again.
I'd definitely be in for radcals and a hardtop, but now I'm replacing the playfield so I'm probably good there.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I stenciled my Cyclone, 2 colors instead of three but black background, and it was a PAIN. It was my first time but even still I had a bear of a time getting the paint to lay down opaque enough and removing the stencils leaving enough time to get all the coats of paint down before he stencils pulled off the edges of paint. I don't think I'll ever do it again.
I'd definitely be in for radcals and a hardtop, but now I'm replacing the playfield so I'm probably good there.
You're replacing your playfield?! How bad was it?
Quoted from edward472:You're replacing your playfield?! How bad was it?
Zoom in around the pops and lower center between the flippers. Some of that mess are repairs I did to level the playing surface a bit with a special jewelry making epoxy just so we could play the game. The inserts were heavily divoted. The scoop holes are way worn. New playfield is much better (although has a bit of wear) but I have cliffys to cover it all.
0508192058 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:I just wanted to give a shout-out to Comet Pinball https://www.cometpinball.com for their great customer service. I know there are other good LED suppliers, but IMO Comet is the best. Not only do they have great products, but their support is exemplary. Having been in service oriented industries for most of my career, my perspective in business is that things will go wrong. What differentiates the bad from the good and the good from the great, is how they treat their customers and how they address issues when they arise. Comet has always communicated well, takes a customer focused approach to business, and continues to offer great and innovative products.
Comet is and will continue to be my sole source for all things pinball lighting, and I encourage everyone who can use their products to give them a try.
I have to agree.
I recently did several LED conversions, and I experimented with suppliers of all types. I tried every major LED supplier (and some not-so-major suppliers as well) for varios colors, flashers, variances of white LEDs, LED strips, etc. Comet pinball stood head and shoulders above the rest.
When I factor quality, price, and customer service...Comet was above all others.
They are my go-to LED company.
Has anyone converted their 3d standup targets to flat ones? I ordered all the replacement targets from Marco but when I couldn't find them all originally I was heavily considering doing this. I think it looks better, fresher, newer... but I don't understand why the 3d targets were used in the first place. Is it just a visual?
Mr_Tantrum has flat targets if I remember correctly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/107#post-4883478
Quoted from edward472:mr_tantrum has flat targets if I remember correctly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/107#post-4883478
I had some from previous owner, but after having the pin for a couple of weeks, I just didn't like them. Ended up putting 3D ones back on spitter targets (owner still had them), and had to purchase a few more to replace a couple of other flats and/or broken ones that were on the pin.
The main reason I didn't like them was all of the behind area exposed. The game was designed with these thicker targets in mind. Not saying that others wouldn't like it, but just not my preference.
FYI, if anyone is interested in flats, shoot me a PM and I'll sell you the new ones I have at a discounted price. Not sure exactly what I have, but I can take inventory if you are interested.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I had some from previous owner, but after having the pin for a couple of weeks, I just didn't like them. Ended up putting 3D ones back on spitter targets (owner still had them), and had to purchase a few more to replace a couple of other flats and/or broken ones that were on the pin.
The main reason I didn't like them was all of the behind area exposed. The game was designed with these thicker targets in mind. Not saying that others wouldn't like it, but just not my preference.
FYI, if is interested in flats, shoot me a PM and I'll sell you the new ones I have at a discounted price. Not sure exactly what I have, but I can take inventory if you are interested.
Thanks for the input, good to know. I am usually one to go for the stock look in most cases, so after seeing those pics I'm going to stick with the 3d.
Ok... who has done a playfield swap? Am I totally messed up here or is this wiring harness without any connectors at all? I either need to pull it entirely off the playfield while in the cabinet or snip every freaking zip tie and pull every single connector off the boards in the backbox? Fucking Data East... every other wiring loom has a connector.
0509191321 (resized).jpgQuoted from harryhoudini:Ok... who has done a playfield swap? Am I totally messed up here or is this wiring harness without any connectors at all? I either need to pull it entirely off the playfield while in the cabinet or snip every freaking zip tie and pull every single connector off the boards in the backbox? Fucking Data East... every other wiring loom has a connector.
[quoted image]
Should be able to take the connectors off the boards without having to take the bundle apart.
Quoted from Lonzo:Should be able to take the connectors off the boards without having to take the bundle apart.
Yep - just take pictures. I take heads off my games to move them in/out of my basement, and successfully moved JP a few times. I've had the JP PF out a couple times as well, so it's possible without separating wire bundles.
Not separating the bundles per say, but there are about 30 zip ties between the playfield and backbox (all along the black wire sleeve, attached to other wires in the backbox). Ok, glad to know I wasn't crazy... I'm half tempted to put in a plug but the thought of crimping all those pins has me on the fence.
But Data East, WHY!?
And on the same note, it's like 1/2 the playfield parts had connectors and 1/2 I had to just cut, like I couldn't even get under the playfield to desolder them so I just had to cut. Example, all of the lights and switches on the ramp at the gate.
Quoted from winteriscoming:Yep - just take pictures. I take heads off my games to move them in/out of my basement, and successfully moved JP a few times. I've had the JP PF out a couple times as well, so it's possible without separating wire bundles.
It is possible to take the playfield out completely without unplugging anything. I did it when I put in my side blades.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:It is possible to take the playfield out completely without unplugging anything. I did it when I put in my side blades.
1557439003669_0_20190223_072510 (resized).jpgQuoted from SantaEatsCheese:[quoted image]
Woaaaahhhhh.... nice. I will definitely be trying this.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:[quoted image]
Hey Honey, could you please come hold something for me for a few seconds while I do something to the pinball machine? 
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hey Honey, could you please come hold something for me for a few seconds while I do something to the pinball machine?
I don't know if you're really just kidding, but I can't count how many times I've had to say something like that.. or have her use her long arms to reach something that fell in the wee back corners of the cabinet. She used to help me move them before I had a dolly. Soldering wires together under the playfield needs at least 3 hands a lot of the time.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hey Honey, could you please come hold something for me for a few seconds while I do something to the pinball machine?
Make sure you have a chair with something grippy and soft on it so it does not slide. Also be warned the populated playfield is probably 80 pounds and awkward. The wires are not long enough to set the playfield on the ground.
Quoted from edward472:Shout out to Lonzo on the tip for removing the prongs on the TRex saucer. Bought some NOS saucers but had the tabs. The tabs were rejecting the ball. Some sandpaper and 30 mins later.... good to go
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah, I installed a new red one (figured it represented blood) but it too has the tabs (I did keep the yellow one for the dock, but installed a light on the underside to illuminate it). My main issue is that they catch the ball, and I have to nearly tilt sometimes for the ball to fall in the saucer. Can you link to Lonzo's post where he tells how to address the issue, please?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Yeah, I installed a new red one (figured it represented blood) but it too has the tabs. My main issue is that they catch the ball, and I have to nearly tilt sometimes for the ball to fall in the saucer. Can you link to Lonzo's post where he tells how to address the issue, please?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/9#post-4161135
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Make sure you have a chair with something grippy and soft on it so it does not slide. Also be warned the populated playfield is probably 80 pounds and awkward. The wires are not long enough to set the playfield on the ground.
I have some nice X-frame metal work horses that can adjust height/width by spreading the legs (lol), so they make a perfect playfield holder and are tall enough that you don't have to bend over, so they sit right up around playfield height. Perfect for this.
Quoted from edward472:Shout out to Lonzo on the tip for removing the prongs on the TRex saucer. Bought some NOS saucers but had the tabs. The tabs were rejecting the ball. Some sandpaper and 30 mins later.... good to go
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, this is timely! I ended up with 1 yellow and 1 clear (dock with light under it) for my playfield swap, didn't know those tabs were an issue.
Welp... caution has been thrown to the wind. And honestly, praise be to all that is JJP for putting spade connectors on their coils. So much desoldering! And tossing the playfield next to the cabinet, SantaEatsCheese that is KILLER. Found a bunch of surprises.. flipper bushing was falling apart on one, one of the large blue plastic pop bumper mounts was cracked and falling out of the playfield, many shitty repairs with twisted wire and electrical tape. Playfield was way easy to lift on my own with all of the upper playfield crap taken off.
Quoted from woody24:Looking at other commenters, looks like they are picturing something different than what I was thinking was happening? Are you talking about when the ball completes the path of the wireform, and is supposed to drop in the IN lane, but instead drops to the OUT lane? I put the small post rubbers on the two end prongs on my wireform, and have never had an issue since.
BUT if you're talking about the ball falling off and shooting over to the outlane, right after the diverter, then your diverter is miss-aligned. After trial and error and spending some time tweaking the location of my diverter, I've had 100% successful wireform delivery.
Yes, it happens when it is supposed to drop in the in lane but instead drops into the out lane. I thought I had read your post before and ordered 2 post rubbers to fix it, but they were too big (1/4" I think). Do you remember what size you got and where you got them from by any chance? Thank you.
Quoted from weasel671:Yes, it happens when it is supposed to drop in the in lane but instead drops into the out lane. I thought I had read your post before and ordered 2 post rubbers to fix it, but they were too big (1/4" I think). Do you remember what size you got and where you got them from by any chance? Thank you.
Boy. Either got them from Marco's or Pinball Life. I think they are the silicon ones, not Titan but...? Forget. They are rounded on one side and flat on the other. And they are the super small hole ones. The ones that are used on pointy end posts. I think. It's been about 4 years since I got them. Haven't had any issues since.
I did see a JP on location that had taken one of those blue rubber stop pads (I think used on hard corners) and used double sided foam tape to stick it on the downward prongs. It was working the times I had seen. And while it's not much surface space for the tape to hold on too, and can confirm it will hold. I had an emblem stuck to my cars grill with very little surface space. Lasted 10 years of weathering and car washes.
Oh wow. Thank you so much for the kind words @mr_tantrum @harryhoudini @geteos & @daditude!! I pictured online retail as something where you just send out packages and that's the end of it. It really puts a smile on our faces to read such positive (and unprompted) things about Comet Pinball, and motivates us to keep doing the same. I didn't expect to have so many genuinely thankful customers...it's like, wait a minute - we should be thanking you!!
@greg-at-comet has really blown away all our expectations (particularly in terms of customer service), and he is truly passionate about making sure people have what they need any get all their questions answered. Things wouldn't be the same without him.
Thanks so much to everyone in the pinball community for all of their support. It's a such a joy to be a part of.
harryhoudini what are you doing with the old playfield once you're done with the swap?
Quoted from woody24:Boy. Either got them from Marco's or Pinball Life. I think they are the silicon ones, not Titan but...? Forget. They are rounded on one side and flat on the other. And they are the super small hole ones. The ones that are used on pointy end posts. I think. It's been about 4 years since I got them. Haven't had any issues since.
I did see a JP on location that had taken one of those blue rubber stop pads (I think used on hard corners) and used double sided foam tape to stick it on the downward prongs. It was working the times I had seen. And while it's not much surface space for the tape to hold on too, and can confirm it will hold. I had an emblem stuck to my cars grill with very little surface space. Lasted 10 years of weathering and car washes.
Thank you. That helps alot. Now to just find some...
Quoted from woody24:Boy. Either got them from Marco's or Pinball Life. I think they are the silicon ones, not Titan but...? Forget. They are rounded on one side and flat on the other. And they are the super small hole ones. The ones that are used on pointy end posts. I think. It's been about 4 years since I got them. Haven't had any issues since.
I did see a JP on location that had taken one of those blue rubber stop pads (I think used on hard corners) and used double sided foam tape to stick it on the downward prongs. It was working the times I had seen. And while it's not much surface space for the tape to hold on too, and can confirm it will hold. I had an emblem stuck to my cars grill with very little surface space. Lasted 10 years of weathering and car washes.
Do they look like this?
Screenshot_20190510-115925_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from mbott1701:harryhoudini what are you doing with the old playfield once you're done with the swap?
Heh, I have two people that messaged me, and ironically two playfields that I'll have left over when done here. I'll post them up, sounds like people want them for projects or restore.
Quoted from weasel671:Do they look like this?[quoted image]
Found them. This is it.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/39-2364-7
and I'm pretty sure I have mine, where the rounded end is on top, so that any deflection, the ball goes up, not down.
Quoted from woody24:Found them. This is it.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/39-2364-7
and I'm pretty sure I have mine, where the rounded end is on top, so that any deflection, the ball goes up, not down.
Woody24...you're the best! Thanks for your help and time.
sooo JP god's... I just finished shopping out my JP and bringing it back to factory (except for the captive ball which I did keep as the white ball) and my poor PF holes that were covered by cliffy's but I got tired of get cliffied on so many shots so I ripped them off.
BUT i've got a 3/4" metal hex spacer, double female, that was in my parts bucket and I purchased a new one from Terry and now I can't figure out where it goes... metal hex spacer = tall 6 sided spacer/post/thingy that screws into a PF post and has a screw go into the top of it.
anything?
Quoted from ypurchn:sooo JP god's... I just finished shopping out my JP and bringing it back to factory (except for the captive ball which I did keep as the white ball) and my poor PF holes that were covered by cliffy's but I got tired of get cliffied on so many shots so I ripped them off.
BUT i've got a 3/4" metal hex spacer, double female, that was in my parts bucket and I purchased a new one from Terry and now I can't figure out where it goes... metal hex spacer = tall 6 sided spacer/post/thingy that screws into a PF post and has a screw go into the top of it.
anything?
HA.. I have all my playfield parts laying out on my guest room bed and I have only one hex spacer. Is it the one that goes over the top hole on the left sling plastic and holds up the left ramp? I believe there is only one in the game but that one is longer than 3/4".
Quoted from harryhoudini:HA.. I have all my playfield parts laying out on my guest room bed and I have only one hex spacer. Is it the one that goes over the top hole on the left sling plastic and holds up the left ramp? I believe there is only one in the game but that one is longer than 3/4".
It is a 1 1/4”
I used (3) 1 1/4” but needed 4. 2 for the clear plastic above the VUK on the right. 1 for the left ramp support over the left slingshot. And 1 for the top right corner behind the flasher. It doesn’t hold anything but I’m assuming it’s there to act as a way to keep balls from getting trapped behind the flasher.
There is also a 3” (?) hex that holds the clear left ramp in the middle upstream of the diverter.
Quoted from ypurchn:It is a 1 1/4”
I used (3) 1 1/4” but needed 4. 2 for the clear plastic above the VUK on the right. 1 for the left ramp support over the left slingshot. And 1 for the top right corner behind the flasher. It doesn’t hold anything but I’m assuming it’s there to act as a way to keep balls from getting trapped behind the flasher.
There is also a 3” (?) hex that holds the clear left ramp in the middle upstream of the diverter.
Hum... ahhh ha, yes the VUK ones I see are with that plastic, doh. Not seeing the one that goes under the top right flasher, weird. I wish the JP manual had these parts and locations, I am getting spoiled with the JJP manuals.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hum... ahhh ha, yes the VUK ones I see are with that plastic, doh. Not seeing the one that goes under the top right flasher, weird. I wish the JP manual had these parts and locations, I am getting spoiled with the JJP manuals.
Maybe an on route mod? IDK
Quoted from ypurchn:Maybe an on route mod? IDK
[quoted image]
My plastics were all cracked and screws missing, so hard for me to say what was there, but I am fairly sure I didn't remove one there. And I realized the ones for the clear plastic by the VUK are still attached to the clear light dome, heh. I still don't see one for the ramp support, should be interesting when I put it back together.
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