(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by Darscot
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57 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7426 posts in this topic. You are on page 119 of 149.
#5901 9 months ago

Joined the club today! Going to need some cliffy's and a color dmd soon but excited to get her home!

34312B03-B3D1-46CB-A9C8-0F4BD3CF8174 (resized).jpeg
#5902 9 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Ugh! After a lot of tinkering and soldering and troubleshooting with Davi with my Opto board, I finally got it working. Yay! But.... now I can't shut my coin door. I have a Japan import with a center coin slot and it hits about the area of the board with the JP logo on it. All I need is about 1/4 inch of space.
Has anyone else run into a similar issue, or do the double coin slots miss the board? If that's the case, maybe I should look into replacing the door?
Oh, in other news. Double check your maintenance rails for sliding the playfield out on. Mine were EXTREMELY loose. I could hand-tighten all the nuts several rotations. After tightening them up, I wiped them down cause they were dir-tay, then wiped cloth damp with oil over them. What a difference that made.

Take the coin mech off...

#5903 9 months ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Joined the club today! Going to need some cliffy's and a color dmd soon but excited to get her home!

Welcome to the jungle!

#5904 9 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Take the coin mech off...

I use the coin mech.

#5905 9 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

I use the coin mech.

Stop using it

#5906 9 months ago

Whoo! 99% working. The ONLY thing that doesn't work is Ball #6's indicator LED, that's it. I can live with that as I'll never really see it anyways. As least the switch works.

To fix the door from not shutting, I just ended up cutting a notch in the board and relocating the LED power light. Sucks that I had to remove the cool JP logo, but at least I get to keep my Coin mech. It's something that I like to have. I have a ton of old tokens and have the game set to $.50. I like it better that way than just having it set on free play. Since I just have one game, it doesn't bother me.

While I had the opto board out, I also put dabs of hot glue over the leads on the back of the board that stuck out more than others. I also have two layers of Kapton tape over that, and two layers of electrical tape on the mounting plate. Even with all 4 layers of tape, a couple leads were still poking through it all. The hot glue put an end to that.

2019-05-05 16.35.51 (resized).jpg2019-05-05 16.45.13 (resized).jpg

#5907 9 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Whoo! 99% working. The ONLY thing that doesn't work is Ball #6's indicator LED, that's it. I can live with that as I'll never really see it anyways. As least the switch works.
To fix the door from not shutting, I just ended up cutting a notch in the board and relocating the LED power light. Sucks that I had to remove the cool JP logo, but at least I get to keep my Coin mech. It's something that I like to have. I have a ton of old tokens and have the game set to $.50. I like it better that way than just having it set on free play. Since I just have one game, it doesn't bother me.
While I had the opto board out, I also put dabs of hot glue over the leads on the back of the board that stuck out more than others. I also have two layers of Kapton tape over that, and two layers of electrical tape on the mounting plate. Even with all 4 layers of tape, a couple leads were still poking through it all. The hot glue put an end to that.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Well, that was easy

#5908 9 months ago

NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)

ebay.com link

#5909 9 months ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)
ebay.com link

Yeah I saw that a couple of weeks ago. Didn't sell the first time. Cool that it exists, but too rich for my blood.

#5910 9 months ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)
ebay.com link

My game came with a NOS topper...I opened it and put it on! LOL..blasphemy!

#5911 9 months ago

So what is wrong with the repop ones for $150?? Just curious as I have an original already

#5912 9 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

So what is wrong with the repop ones for $150?? Just curious as I have an original already

I got a repop off Ebay a few years ago and it looks perfect IMHO. I love that original style JP topper look.

#5913 9 months ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)
ebay.com link

That's just nuts for a piece of thin blow mold plastic.

#5914 9 months ago

I'd buy the TILT Topper before I'd buy a NOS or re-pro.

#5915 9 months ago

Whelp, I cheated. I added a post on the left outlane but finally got to total system shutdown. Gotta open the lanes back up a bit. This game is still my favorite.

#5916 9 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

So what is wrong with the repop ones for $150?? Just curious as I have an original already

rock914 used to make them. Not sure why he doesnt any more.

#5917 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Whelp, I cheated. I added a post on the left outlane but finally got to total system shutdown. Gotta open the lanes back up a bit. This game is still my favorite.

I ended up doing the same, the left out lane was frustrating many of my friends and family. Figured it was better to put it in and let people have more fun on it.

#5918 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Whelp, I cheated. I added a post on the left outlane but finally got to total system shutdown. Gotta open the lanes back up a bit. This game is still my favorite.

Mine also has a post there. I wasn’t trying to cheat and thought that dimple meant there was supposed to be a post there, lol.

I have to say I’m glad it’s there now though.

#5919 9 months ago

Got my siderail stripes done. Now just need to wait a few days to apply clearcoat to everything.

IMG_2109.JPG
#5920 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Got my siderail stripes done. Now just need to wait a few days to apply clearcoat to everything.
[quoted image]

How much? I have vinyl tape on mine and I hate it...

#5921 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

How much? I have vinyl tape on mine and I hate it...

I would say it would cost you under $40 to do the siderails.

1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 roll of this: amazon.com link »
1 roll of this: amazon.com link »

1) Remove rails (remove bolt at bottom and at top - remove backbox supports to get to top)
2) Lightly sand rails
3) Apply 2 coats of primer 15 minutes apart, and let dry 24 hours
4) Apply 3 coats of yellow 15 minutes apart, and let dry 72 hours (3 days) - do not try to cut this short as you will either bubble the paint if you do it too soon, or the tape will mess it up!
5) Tape your stripes. I selected my angle at random the way I liked it then mirrored it for the opposite rail. To do this set your first stripe where you want it (I wanted it so that the buttons would be on a black stripe). Then apply parallel tape the full length of the rail. When done, remove the pieces where you want to be painted black. Firmly press all edges of the tape down and wrap ends of tape around the edges of the bar. For the opposite rail, place one strip of tape over key area (e.g. button hole) then hold up to other rail to check alignment (they should mirror one another). This may take some adjustment, but once you get the first strip right (lines up on top and bottom to opposite rail) then repeat the tape stripes on it, remove every other one where you want black, press all edges, and you're ready to pain.
6) Apply 2 coats of black 15 minutes apart. Wait 30 minutes after second coat and remove tape covering yellow stripes. Be very careful when you do this and do not touch any of the black painted stripes or you will leave a fingerprint. Let dry for 72 hours (3 days)
7) Apply 3 coats of clear 15 minutes apart. Let dry to fully cured 5-7 days before installing. You could probably rush this a little and just wait 48 hours, but can states full curing takes 5-7 days. Personally, I would prefer full hardening of the paint before I install.
8) Make sure lockbar has good clearance on the sides before installing or I'm sure you will scratch the paint on the new rails.

#5922 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I would say it would cost you under $40 to do the siderails.
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 can of this: amazon.com link »
1 roll of this: amazon.com link »
1 roll of this: amazon.com link »
1) Remove rails (remove bolt at bottom and at top - remove backbox supports to get to top)
2) Lightly sand rails
3) Apply 2 coats of primer 15 minutes apart, and let dry 24 hours
4) Apply 3 coats of yellow 15 minutes apart, and let dry 72 hours (3 days) - do not try to cut this short as you will either bubble the paint if you do it too soon, or the tape will mess it up!
5) Tape your stripes. I selected my angle at random the way I liked it then mirrored it for the opposite rail. To do this set your first stripe where you want it (I wanted it so that the buttons would be on a black stripe). Then apply parallel tape the full length of the rail. When done, remove the pieces where you want to be painted black. Firmly press all edges of the tape down and wrap ends of tape around the edges of the bar. For the opposite rail, place one strip of tape over key area (e.g. button hole) then hold up to other rail to check alignment (they should mirror one another). This may take some adjustment, but once you get the first strip right (lines up on top and bottom to opposite rail) then repeat the tape stripes on it, remove every other one where you want black, press all edges, and you're ready to pain.
6) Apply 2 coats of black 15 minutes apart. Wait 30 minutes after second coat and remove tape covering yellow stripes. Be very careful when you do this and do not touch any of the black painted stripes or you will leave a fingerprint. Let dry for 72 hours (3 days)
7) Apply 3 coats of clear 15 minutes apart. Let dry to fully cured 5-7 days before installing. You could probably rush this a little and just wait 48 hours, but can states full curing takes 5-7 days. Personally, I would prefer full hardening of the paint before I install.
8) Make sure lockbar has good clearance on the sides before installing or I'm sure you will scratch the paint on the new rails.

I mean...youve already got all the stuff....

#5923 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I mean...youve already got all the stuff....

Well, I would need to buy a little more paint. I'll PM you and we can discuss privately.

#5924 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Id like one. Need any papo dinos? I have a couple extra we could trade maybe.

I think I missed this and never replied. Yes, always open for a trade, but I think you'd be getting the short end of the stick since my decal is only $6. PM me to discuss if you still have interest, and I apologize for not seeing your post.

#5925 9 months ago

Hi guys, just joined the club last weekend with a machine I got from a local pinsider. It came with a custom topper (one of a kind I am told?) which cannot fit in my basement so I will be selling if anyone is interested $350 shipped or $325 local pick up. Video of it below;

102E29F1-D94B-4FC2-8A82-1AD5D8778570 (resized).jpeg
#5926 9 months ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Hi guys, just joined the club last weekend with a machine I got from a local pinsider. It came with a custom topper (one of a kind I am told?) which cannot fit in my basement so I will be selling if anyone is interested $350 shipped or $325 local pick up. Video of it below;
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club!

#5927 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

rock914 used to make them. Not sure why he doesnt any more.

I still make them. Built stronger than the original. They are now sold here. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-topper.html

#5928 9 months ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Hi guys, just joined the club last weekend with a machine I got from a local pinsider. It came with a custom topper (one of a kind I am told?) which cannot fit in my basement so I will be selling if anyone is interested $350 shipped or $325 local pick up. Video of it below;
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club. I have seen that one before. http://www.pinballtoppers.com used to sell them. Looks like the previous owner drilled holes in the sides for lights. So in that sense it's one of a kind. Still really cool.

Quoted from Rock914:

I still make them. Built stronger than the original. They are now sold here. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-topper.html

Good to know. Not trying to knock it, but did you make all the details thicker too or is that the way it's painted? The pic looks like all the teeth are mushed together, but in the original the teeth look a lot more spaced out.

#5929 9 months ago

Does anyone know if the lighted scoop topper mods (the plastic signs that go above the scoops) is available anywhere (or anyone have it for sale)?

I'm doing a playfield swap. I bought the scoop light kit but would like to dress up the game a bit.

#5930 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Does anyone know if the lighted scoop topper mods (the plastic signs that go above the scoops) is available anywhere (or anyone have it for sale)?
I'm doing a playfield swap. I bought the scoop light kit but would like to dress up the game a bit.

https://loopcombo.com/collections/all/jurassic-park

#5931 9 months ago

In working on painting my rails, I had to remove the mirror blades my pin came with. What I noticed is they had several scuffs on them from the sides of the playfield when being lifted up and down since the blades were installed. While I couldn't buff them out, good news is the other sides are in perfect condition so I'll just install them on the opposite side of the cabinet.

I know others have mentioned to put felt on the sides, but never really spelled it out. My solution cost all of $1 at Hobby Lobby using adhesive backed 9" x 12" black felt sheets (they were on sale for 1/2 price). The felt is nice and thin so as not to take much room, but still thick and durable enough to protect the side blades. I cut the sheets in 1-1/2" widths the full length of the sheet (12") along with the remainder needed to complete a rail (left side also took a 5" 1/2" high section). I applied the felt even with the bottom of the playfield side exposing about 1/4" at top of the rail so that the felt would not be visible with playfield in place. The felt stuck great, and now I feel so much better knowing that my mirror blades will remain in pristine condition.

I'm also going to do this on my Getaway with pictured blades. I already have a few scrapes and tears on those, so the felt should do a fine job protecting them from any further damage.
IMG_2114.JPGIMG_2115.JPG

#5933 9 months ago

I talked to him last month and he's doing another run. You can PM him on here, and he will contact you when it's available again.

#5934 9 months ago

I have a never isnstalled loop combo mod I will sell. Of course I have to find them. Lol

#5935 9 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

I talked to him last month and he's doing another run. You can PM him on here, and he will contact you when it's available again.

Cool, do you know his u/n?

Quoted from Lonzo:

I have a never isnstalled loop combo mod I will sell. Of course I have to find them. Lol

Sweet, PM'd

#5937 9 months ago

AHHH! He's making more and they'll be available in the store shortly (or now), parts are in stock.

#5938 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

AHHH! He's making more and they'll be available in the store shortly (or now), parts are in stock.

They are in stock now

#5939 9 months ago

Sometimes when I shoot the ramp and it comes down too fast, I loose my ball down the trough on the right side. Any remedies for this? Its getting pretty annoying, especially when I have a good game going!

#5940 9 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Sometimes when I shoot the ramp and it comes down too fast, I loose my ball down the trough on the right side. Any remedies for this? Its getting pretty annoying, especially when I have a good game going!

I've had my game set up for 3 days and I am noticing if I ride the ramp too fast it jumps off and goes god knows where!

#5941 9 months ago

Are you guys saying the ball just falls off the wireframe that crosses the playfield?

If so, is it possible to manually widen the wireframe a little by hand? This might help the ball stay on.

#5942 9 months ago

Mine falls off the ramp from time to time, but only when I get a good straight shot up the ramp with a lot of force. I'm guessing it might be more efficient to slow the ball down after it is up the ramp but before it hits the wireframe.

#5943 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Mine falls off the ramp from time to time, but only when I get a good straight shot up the ramp with a lot of force. I'm guessing it might be more efficient to slow the ball down after it is up the ramp but before it hits the wireframe.

You could probably accomplish this with some sort of small "pad" placed on the bottom of the ramp in a given spot. I'm thinking like a piece of thin rubber, or felt, or something thin that would grip the ball just enough to slow it down a little without causing it to bounce.

Other idea would be to adhere a magnet underneath the ramp in the right spot to "grab" the ball and slow it down as it passed by.

#5944 9 months ago

I just wanted to give a shout-out to Comet Pinball https://www.cometpinball.com for their great customer service. I know there are other good LED suppliers, but IMO Comet is the best. Not only do they have great products, but their support is exemplary. Having been in service oriented industries for most of my career, my perspective in business is that things will go wrong. What differentiates the bad from the good and the good from the great, is how they treat their customers and how they address issues when they arise. Comet has always communicated well, takes a customer focused approach to business, and continues to offer great and innovative products.

Comet is and will continue to be my sole source for all things pinball lighting, and I encourage everyone who can use their products to give them a try.

#5945 9 months ago

I've spent more than I care to admit with comet. Even bought a tshirt.

#5946 9 months ago

I'll give a +1 to comet as well. I love their sunlight white option, imo it's the perfect blend between cool and warm white. Works great in the GI of every game that has warmer coloured plastics. Their Optix line of GI lights are awesome and their matrix line makes adding in extra lighting really easy. The 6.3V light strips are super handy.

#5947 9 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:Sometimes when I shoot the ramp and it comes down too fast, I loose my ball down the trough on the right side. Any remedies for this? Its getting pretty annoying, especially when I have a good game going!

Looking at other commenters, looks like they are picturing something different than what I was thinking was happening? Are you talking about when the ball completes the path of the wireform, and is supposed to drop in the IN lane, but instead drops to the OUT lane? I put the small post rubbers on the two end prongs on my wireform, and have never had an issue since.

BUT if you're talking about the ball falling off and shooting over to the outlane, right after the diverter, then your diverter is miss-aligned. After trial and error and spending some time tweaking the location of my diverter, I've had 100% successful wireform delivery.

#5948 9 months ago

JP cabinet restore, what are the options? Only thing I've found is the vinyl wrap.

#5949 9 months ago

And a quick note on the diverter placement, it has to be up higher than you probably think it does. If you make a smooth transition from the diverter, to the corner of the plastic ramp, you're too low. You have to think of it as the ball is against the diverter, it needs to make a straight shot over to the center of the wireform, and maybe just a tad higher (1-3mm difference) for hard shots that may push the diverter a little bit. Slower shots will still work as they'll fall into place.

#5950 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

JP cabinet restore, what are the options? Only thing I've found is the vinyl wrap.

I saw something not too long ago where a guy did a restore, and actually had vinyl decals made which he applied to the black cabinet and then clear coated. Can't remember if it was its own thread on in a general thread somewhere, but it looked great.

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