Beauty of PS is that you can have multiple orchestrations and easily switch between them at any time, so you could have original and the movie based themes.

However, I do understand your reasons. My Getaway is awesome for PinSound, and I’m now working on my 10th different orchestration for it. Fast paced action with driving theme lends itself to a lot of different music options.

Okay. Help me troubleshoot. Installed the opto board and having some issues. With no balls installed, 3rd and 4th one from the left are already lit. When I test them by running my finger over them, 1st and 2nd from the left work, and oddly, when the second one is lit, the third one goes out. Nothing changes about the 4th one. It always stays lit. And 5 and 6 don't respond at all to anything. Everything seems solidly soldered.

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If already lit you just need to bend the diodes away from each other sightly. If they don’t respond at all then bend them a little closer to each other.

I too had to make a few minor adjustments, but it was quick and simple. Be sure to fully test with pinballs entering and leaving the trough before buttoning everything down.

I put the pin in service mode, blocked the center drain and then ejected balls one at a time. Then I removed block and let them all return. Drained all six a second time but only inserted one ball at a time. This should be enough to make any minor LED positioning adjustments you need.

Some of it was shorting out at least. I think it had poked through the 3d printed backing. I unmounted it and let it hang in the air. Now they all work except for the 5th one. It's always on. I tried bending one of the leds, but didn't do anything. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Once I figure it out, I'll put some kapton tape on the back of it to prevent any shorting. It's close to working.

Please show a pic about back plastic. If you apply too much force, the leads at the back can damage this plastic, and can cause short circuit.
About 5th: before you do any change, put a non translucent piece of paper between transceiver (clear) and receiver (black) LED's. Green LED should turn off. In this case, adjust carefully LED's, bend the diodes away from each other slightly.
If the green LED stays on, most probably the board is damaged during short circuit load.

I had the leads poke thru the backing. It started out acting flakey then I would consistently not get the LEDs to light up regardless... Pulled the board and noticed holes in the plastic. To fix it, I cut a piece of of felt to place between the board and the backer. Later Davi sent me the file, I have a 3d printer and I printed a thicker version.

Did a real quick test before I headed to work this morning. Stuck a piece of paper between the diodes and the light is still lit.

How do I go about checking to see what component(s) are bad?

For easier troubleshooting, please send high resolution pictures to my email (PM sent).
I am looking for:
Pictures about backboard and board (for example backboard, then below the opto board)
Some close up pictures up at faulty area

Do you see any sign of burn, deformation at the housing of transistor and black opto receiver?
I will come back later today with more info.

If you have an iPhone put the camera in SLO-MO mode and record a plunge. Then during playback you can edit and slow down the video at the time of ball release. If the plunger is off center the ball will bounce off the walls of the channel. The video link above shows mine shooting straight.

Other phones may have a similar function.

Sorry, yes I understand the video part - just not sure how to fix it if it’s not hitting it straight.

Installed the trough opto board and it all seems to work fine except the far left LED isn't lighting. In test mode, all six balls are recognized and if I back that final ball up with my finger, the test will count back to five balls, then back to six balls as I let the ball go back into its resting spot. In game, it loses count of the balls during multiball. I've soldered and resoldered the connections and tried adjusting the opto for that ball, so what's the fix here?

Hmm...nevermind, I guess. I fixed it by loosening the screw next to it by two turns. NICE.

Your LED leads are poking thru the plastic protector. I had a very similar issue.

Several hours later and I'm still messing with mounting this board to get it so every light is lit. In game, the shaker is rattling the mount loose since I don't have a drill to widen the hole and I broke one of the small screws off inside the hole where it mounts to. All because the mounting holes don't line up...

If the mounting holes don't line up...
Don't try to fix/mount the board, something will be damaged - in this case the screw.
If you can't (or don't want to) widen the hole, please send back the board to me, and I will give you a full refund.

I don't understand how the holes are not lining up for people. I thought this was the case for me at first, but then I realized they lined up perfectly if I used the higher hole on the right and the lower hole on the left. Once I did this it was perfect alignment, and even with the slight tilt regarding how the board is mounted it still works perfectly.

I put a new Roll Pin in last night on the right flipper link.

I had to take the whole housing out to do it. Thanks to those that told me the name of the part but boy... If i would have known you gotta hammer that sucker in i would have just bought a new unit. Great learning experience though! My JP Back online !

The holes on my opto board were slightly off as well. When I screwed one side completely down, the other side had issues. I broke two screws and stripped another one. Then, I started both screws just a bit and tightened until things were good enough. I'd say that probably helped in that I wouldn't end up going to far and end up going through the protector. I re-aligned afterwards to get things all light correctly and it's been golden ever since.

Those are the only holes close to the board. I thought that maybe I had it misaligned, but couldn't figure out anyway else it could have gone.

FYI, here is my ball trough board mounted. You can see the screw holes I used which aligned for me (circled in yellow) without any adjustments at all using two of the original screws from the removed switches. I just wonder if DE was not that exact from game to game with their hole positioning for mounting the switches.

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It's possible there were just loose tolerances when the trough switch mounts were being drilled and threaded. If Davi designed it to fit his game precisely, it may be that others have games where the holes don't match his exactly.

Those having issues with the LEDs shorting against the metal might get away with cutting some card stock or cereal box cardboard to make a backer to help with that.

That is why the playfield plastics have one or two oblong slots.
In order to address this kind of problem. Good call.

Tried to get mine going again tonight. No luck. I just have one that won't respond. The light is always lit. Adjustments and even putting cardboard between the diodes doesn't do anything. Davi's trying to help. Been sending him photos and info. So he stands by his product which is nice, instead of just saying, "you didn't do it right, you dumbass."

Buy a Jurassic Park pinball machine and you're in!

Seriously, open and free to all. Just click the star at top to flag as one of your favorites so you can see anytime new messages are posted. Feel free to contribute however and whenever you like.

Yes, deviation can happen.
9,008 JP were made. Anyway, if there is small gap, a correction takes about 10 seconds with a 1$ drill.

Thanks to @davi, my power supply is all nice and tidy now.

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Installed my opto board from Davi today. Works great! Thanks Davi!

While I've got the machine pulled away from the wall to install the optoboard, I received and installed my ColorDMD. It looks pretty good. Still wish some colors were a little different, but the logo does look nice.

Instructions weren't the clearest, and omitted some things. Also flipped the board that gets remounted back on 180 degrees. Not sure why they didn't say to do it this way to begin with. The ribbon cable wasn't long enough to reach, but rotating 180 degrees, it was perfectly fine. And the other ribbon cable they provide was perfectly long enough to stretch across.

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I am glad you like it.

One more opto board is up and running. Good to hear, thanks for feedback!

I think I just did something stupid. My Jurassic Park came with a subwoofer. It really makes the T-Rex roar. It is hooked up with alligator clips going from the speaker on the bottom to sub and has been operating for 3 months with no issue. I recently read how to hook up my hobbit to the same sub. I played a game and it rocked. I went over to the Jurrassic park afterwards and the sound was anemic and coming in and out of from loud to soft like certain speakers were only working intermediately. I didn't hear the woofer and looked at how it was plugged up. To my horror, I had switched the RCA jacks to the Output instead of the input on the woofer for my Jurassic Park. I had assumed (incorrectly) they were all inputs. When I was playing my Hobbit, the sound was going out to the sub and being powered from the sub to the speakers in the Jurassic Park. I have not troubleshot too much yet, but I am assuming I messed up the bottom speaker in my Jurassic Park. What do you guys think would be the most likely solution?

If it is the speaker, what is the best way to replace something like that?

Anyone looking for a used/ excellent condition DMD display for their JP, I have one for sale. No missing lines or dots. $125 shipped. PM me. Located in Santa Clarita California

My trex still eats the ball, then comes halfway down and stays there the rest of the game until I hit start. Its intermittent. If I go into diagnostics mid game I can get him to go back up still. What is new is that sometimes when I go into diagnostics and try to move him right or left, he only moves left no matter what flipper I hit, but its intermittent also. In game, he sometimes wont move left or right to pick up the ball also. Any ideas?

Are all your switches working in test? Is he chomping after eating the ball? If not it might never recognize the up position or something and just cycle.

this was exactly my issue that ended up being the upper trex switch

this sounds like a wiring issue since trex would be getting "hot" on the left regardless of being told left or right.

The upper switch works fine in diagnostics. Maybe he's not far enough up when he hits the switch?

All switches register in diagnostics. When he eats the ball, he does chomp

Mine would usually check out ok in diagnostics. Something about gameplay made it not work...

What exactly did you do to fix it?

Just had my best game since I've owned the pin for a couple of months - 812M (5 ball, ROM v6.0). I made it all the way through shutdown, but I missed so many opportunities along the way. After playing JP over the past several weeks now, what keeps my attention are the mini-games within the game. You can make it all the way through the CRTs, but still not score well if you don't fulfill the challenges along the way.

Nice score! I definitely agree the 6.0 code is a MASSIVE upgrade to this machine. When I first got mine and played the stock code I was considering selling it after a few weeks. Since I have installed the 6.0 code, done an LED conversion and dialedin/shopped the machine it is a real pleasure to play and is no longer on the chopping block!

My best game on 6.0 code had two Triballs, accomplished CHAOS once for the super jackpots and got system failure. My machine is set for 3 balls but I think I had two or three extra balls that game.

Ship me a jurassic park pinball

I hope you mean 812M, not 812K....right? Lol

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You're right, 820K would be a little braggadocios.

While I appreciate the meme (I did chuckle when I saw it), my point really isn't the score or to compare myself to anyone else. Rather, I'm just happy that I'm getting better and learning how to play the game. Obviously the score is probably the easiest and/or best way to measure one's improvement.

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

Ive been disappointed in my scores this last year. Current high score on the machine is just over 600m. But just a few weeks after I got the game, and before I understood the rules, I set a 1.6 billion score. HAD ZERO idea how I even got that, and even thought it was an error and a switch was vibrating and giving me tons of points. After recounting the sounds I heard and the mode I knew I was in, it was confirmed here on the board that it was most likely indeed a genuine score.

Turned out I hit every shot I needed in Tri-ball pretty much instantly. I had no idea. That included the Jackpot, the CHAOS shots and the TRex with all 6 balls still on the table. I've never been able to do it since.

Mr_Tantrum - great idea! post a pic!

That does look nice, and of course I just put an order in yesterday.