(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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There are 7537 posts in this topic. You are on page 116 of 151.
#5751 11 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Thanks hope home depot carries them

Marco has them for 22 cents. I need one,too.

#5752 11 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Marco has them for 22 cents. I need one,too.

Great im on the site looking to order them not sure which one i need. Any chance you can throw up the link ?

#5753 11 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Great im on the site looking to order them not sure which one i need. Any chance you can throw up the link ?

Is it this one ? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9370-1

#5754 11 months ago

Another trough in the world. I'll need to increase the length of the wires for power (for playfield lifting purposes) but it is up and running. Simple process.

JP.gif
#5755 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Who here has removed their side rails for painting or replacement before? Just wondering how difficult it was on this pin and if there are any tips or tricks I need to know before attempting.
Also, what type of tape/adhesive did you use to replace them?

Anybody?

#5756 11 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

Another trough in the world. I'll need to increase the length of the wires for power (for playfield lifting purposes) but it is up and running. Simple process.
[quoted image]

I could watch that thing work all day!

#5757 11 months ago

Hi Mr tantrum,
There is a nut and carriage bolt in front, by lockdown bar and a wood screw in back, under the head. Remove those. Then all that is holding it on is double sided tape. Pretty strong stuff, but I use a thin, somewhere sharp, putty knife and just work it down.
Aircraft stripper will take off powder coating and Rust-Oleum textured black is a quite nice match. The I use 3m Auto trim tape to re attach. Hope this helps

#5758 11 months ago
Quoted from kba78:

Hi Mr tantrum,
There is a nut and carriage bolt in front, by lockdown bar and a wood screw in back, under the head. Remove those. Then all that is holding it on is double sided tape. Pretty strong stuff, but I use a thin, somewhere sharp, putty knife and just work it down.
Aircraft stripper will take off powder coating and Rust-Oleum textured black is a quite nice match. The I use 3m Auto trim tape to re attach. Hope this helps

Thanks. Sounds just like my Williams Getaway which was very similar. The plan is to paint them in a caution tape pattern (safety yellow and gloss black).

#5759 11 months ago

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months.

So, my plea to all JP owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list.

Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that this game can have with LEDs installed.

Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro

Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform

#5760 11 months ago

Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.

How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?

Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.

20190421_195754 (resized).jpg20190421_195614 (resized).jpg
#5761 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.
How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?
Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.[quoted image][quoted image]

I had the same problem... I drilled both holes bigger. I just grabbed a bit that was bigger, nothing special. Start just bigger then go up until it fits

#5762 11 months ago

I got an "attempted" delivery notice on Saturday for the opto board. I guarantee the mail carrier never left the truck. It was raining that day and I bet he or she simply didn't want to get wet... I was home all day.

#5763 11 months ago

Duplicate

#5764 11 months ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I had the same problem... I drilled both holes bigger. I just grabbed a bit that was bigger, nothing special. Start just bigger then go up until it fits

Did you still use the original screws? That was one concern I had, that the hole would be too big for the screw to hold

#5765 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Did you still use the original screws? That was one concern I had, that the hole would be too big for the screw to hold

Yes, original screws. Just don't drill the holes larger than the screw heads.

#5766 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.
How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?
Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.[quoted image][quoted image]

Extend the hole with drill bit (of coarse smaller size than screw head) - or use a small router bit (or small drill bit, like the size of original hole), and create an oval shape.

As your trough is completely out, this is the perfect time to remove the dimples (if any) at ball parking positions.

#5767 11 months ago

Cabinet Speaker - HELP NEEDED

Hi guys

Can someone please let me know which wire is the positive and which is negative

It looks like my speaker is the original factory speaker and I want to upgrade it.

jurassic park cabinet speaker (resized).PNG
#5768 11 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Cabinet Speaker - HELP NEEDED
Hi guys
Can someone please let me know which wire is the positive and which is negative
It looks like my speaker is the original factory speaker and I want to upgrade it.[quoted image]

Look for CN1 connector at Sound Board, check wire colors:

Screenshot_20190422-142313_Drive (resized).jpg
#5769 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.
How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?
Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.[quoted image][quoted image]

I mounted mine using existing holes in board and bracket. However, to line up the holes correctly, I used a higher hole on the right side and a lower hole on the left side. In other words, there was a slight upward from left to right slant to the board when installed, but it didn't matter. I had to manually adjust one or two of the LED pairs spacing (maybe a mm or so), but it still works perfectly mounted this way.

#5770 11 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Cabinet Speaker - HELP NEEDED
Hi guys
Can someone please let me know which wire is the positive and which is negative
It looks like my speaker is the original factory speaker and I want to upgrade it.[quoted image]

Was my answer from a month ago not good enough?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/109#post-4888260

#5771 11 months ago

I received my opto board from Davi today! It looks great. It will be a while before I get to install it. I look forward to ditching the flaky micro-switches.

#5772 11 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I received my opto board from Davi today! It looks great. It will be a while before I get to install it. I look forward to ditching the flaky micro-switches.

Finally!

Here is a quick installation guide, based on Mr. Tantrum's summary.

1) Tin all of the leads on the opto board (very crucial to do this before you install).
2) Put pin in service mode, eject all 6 balls then turn pin off.
3) De-solder all wires from 6 trough switches.
4) Remove both screws from all switches to remove them (set two aside to use for mounting opto board).
5) Mount opto board with backing in place (3D printed protector that came with the board) using 2 screws taken from removed switches (opto board mounting holes aligned with two of the existing threaded bracket holes). In case of offset between ball trough hole and board hole, increase the diameter of board hole (smaller than screw head).
6) Install your +12V DC power source. If the package contains opto board harness:
Unplug original CN2 female connector from sound board.
Plug original CN2 female to Z connector end on opto harness.
Switch on the pin. Make sure that nothing is connected to CN2 on sound board yet.
For double check, measure the voltage levels (12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V), and polarity at the end of harness (6 pin IDC or Molex) according to CN2 legend on sound board. The harness has polarity pin - this check is for 200% safety.
When everything is fine, power off. Plug opto harness to CN2 position on sound board.
7) Solder power wire to power pads on board (make sure neutral and positive are correct)
8) Turn power on to insure power is going to opto board (orange LED is on) and turn back off.
9) Solder green/white pairs to appropriate station on the board. You don't need to install diodes.
10) Turn on pin and manually test optos, making slight adjustments where needed then turn off pin.
11) Lower playfield completely, power on. Go to service menu, and check the operation: empty the ball trough few times. Carefully adjust optos, if required.
12) Success. Play a game!

#5773 11 months ago

I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?

I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.

#5774 11 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle.

Pops are intended to be random and dangerous, so be ready to nudge. That being said, mine don't often do that. Is your pin level?

#5775 11 months ago

OMG how embarrassing , thank you and yes your answer was and is still spot on

#5776 11 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Is your pin level?

Thanks for the tip. Haven’t tested the level yet as I still need to move it from the garage to the games room. Seems to play true enough though.

#5777 11 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?
I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.

Mine literally never does this (at least I've never seen it in the month or two I've owned the pin). I'm at around 6.5 degrees of pitch and perfectly left-right level.

#5778 11 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

OMG how embarrassing , thank you and yes your answer was and is still spot on

No worries, just giving you a hard time.

#5779 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

…"based on Mr. Tantrum's summary."

I'm honored.

#5780 11 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?
I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.

I have the same sort of issue with mine - however it didn't go into the pop-bumpers, it hit the green post just north of the pop-bumper entry gate (and has created a wear-down-spot there).

I re-leveled the game from left to right and then inclined the game a bit and now it seems to either go into the pop-bumper area or loose momentum, hit the t-gate and roll back towards the flippers.

I shouldn't remove the t-gate correct? anything else I should be trying?

#5781 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Finally!
Here is a quick installation guide, based on Mr. Tantrum's summary.
1) Tin all of the leads on the opto board (very crucial to do this before you install).
2) Put pin in service mode, eject all 6 balls then turn pin off.
3) De-solder all wires from 6 trough switches.
4) Remove both screws from all switches to remove them (set two aside to use for mounting opto board).
5) Mount opto board with backing in place (3D printed protector that came with the board) using 2 screws taken from removed switches (opto board mounting holes aligned with two of the existing threaded bracket holes). In case of offset between ball trough hole and board hole, increase the diameter of board hole (smaller than screw head).
6) Install your +12V DC power source. If the package contains opto board harness:
Unplug original CN2 female connector from sound board.
Plug original CN2 female to Z connector end on opto harness.
Switch on the pin. Make sure that nothing is connected to CN2 on sound board yet.
For double check, measure the voltage levels (12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V), and polarity at the end of harness (6 pin IDC or Molex) according to CN2 legend on sound board. The harness has polarity pin - this check is for 200% safety.
When everything is fine, power off. Plug opto harness to CN2 position on sound board.
7) Solder power wire to power pads on board (make sure neutral and positive are correct)
8) Turn power on to insure power is going to opto board (orange LED is on) and turn back off.
9) Solder green/white pairs to appropriate station on the board. You don't need to install diodes.
10) Turn on pin and manually test optos, making slight adjustments where needed then turn off pin.
11) Lower playfield completely, power on. Go to service menu, and check the operation: empty the ball trough few times. Carefully adjust optos, if required.
12) Success. Play a game!

davi -- thanks for the opt board and the instructions - question though regarding using this board with the CN2 hardness from the soundboard....

I've installed a Pinsound+, along with the pinsound Data East power booster Splitter -- should I be worried about adding an additional item to this power source? is there a particular order in which this additional harness should be installed? The power booster is currently installed between CN4 on the sound board and CN2 on the pinsound board.

#5782 11 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

davi -- thanks for the opt board and the instructions - question though regarding using this board with the CN2 hardness from the soundboard....
I've installed a Pinsound+, along with the pinsound Data East power booster Splitter -- should I be worried about adding an additional item to this power source? is there a particular order in which this additional harness should be installed? The power booster is currently installed between CN4 on the sound board and CN2 on the pinsound board.

You can't use the opto harness the way I've designed. The Date East power booster replaces the 12V to 18V to avoid sound cut, and use only 5V from original CN2 connector. So in your case, you need 18V and 5V for Pinsound, and 12V for opto board. After some research and drawings, here is my suggestion.

Power off.
1. Unplug 6 way power booster Molex from sound board.
2. Remove original CN2 IDC from power booster harness (Z connector end).
3. Plug original CN2 to opto board harness (Z connector end).
4. Plug 6 way opto board connector to power booster Z connector.
Power on.
4. Now you have to read following voltages:
DE power booster: 18V (blue), unused, unused, unused, ground (black), 5V (red). Make sure that red connector gets 5V, otherwise you can damage the soundboard!
Opto harness: 12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V.
If every value is OK, plug power booster back to Pinsound.

Maybe with drawing my explanation is more clear, and I hope there is 100% compatibility between connectors.

DE Power booster - opto.jpg
#5783 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

You can't use the opto harness the way I've designed. The Date East power booster replaces the 12V to 18V to avoid sound cut, and use only 5V from original CN2 connector. So in your case, you need 18V and 5V for Pinsound, and 12V for opto board. After some research and drawings, here is my suggestion.
Power off.
1. Unplug 6 way power booster Molex from sound board.
2. Remove original CN2 IDC from power booster harness (Z connector end).
3. Plug original CN2 to opto board harness (Z connector end).
4. Plug 6 way opto board connector to power booster Z connector.
Power on.
4. Now you have to read following voltages:
DE power booster: 18V (blue), unused, unused, unused, ground (black), 5V (red). Make sure that red connector gets 5V, otherwise you can damage the soundboard!
Opto harness: 12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V.
If every value is OK, plug power booster back to Pinsound.
Maybe with drawing my explanation is more clear, and I hope there is 100% compatibility between connectors.[quoted image]

Thank you Davi -- I don't currently have anything that will read the voltages from the connectors, so I will need to purchase something to triple check your numbers and then try it out.

#5784 11 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Thank you Davi -- I don't currently have anything that will read the voltages from the connectors, so I will need to purchase something to triple check your numbers and then try it out.

No need to spend a ton on a multi-meter. Probably can pick something up at Walmart, Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Even better if you have a Harbor Freight close by (they have one for $6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html).

Here are some examples on Amazon for around $10 or less.

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

#5785 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No need to spend a ton on a multi-meter. Probably can pick something up at Walmart, Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Even better if you have a Harbor Freight close by (they have one for $6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html).
Here are some examples on Amazon for around $10 or less.
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

Thank's mr_tantrum

#5786 11 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Thank you Davi -- I don't currently have anything that will read the voltages from the connectors, so I will need to purchase something to triple check your numbers and then try it out.

Buy one with audible continuity function, this is very useful function to find shorts or check continuity.

#5787 11 months ago

I had to move the pin again and so did a check on the levels today. They are out quite a bit left to right. Will move it into the games room on the weekend and set up all the levels. Hopefully no issues after this.

Quoted from JohnJN:

I re-leveled the game from left to right and then inclined the game a bit and now it seems to either go into the pop-bumper area or loose momentum, hit the t-gate and roll back towards the flippers.

If you ball is losing momentum, perhaps check the plunger to see if it is shooting the ball straight. You can take a slow motion video with your phone. If the plunger is not firing straight the ball will hit the side wall before the bend and lose speed.

#5788 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Buy one with audible continuity function, this is very useful function to find shorts or check continuity.

Thanks davi

Quoted from 7oxford:

I had to move the pin again and so did a check on the levels today. They are out quite a bit left to right. Will move it into the games room on the weekend and set up all the levels. Hopefully no issues after this.

If you ball is losing momentum, perhaps check the plunger to see if it is shooting the ball straight. You can take a slow motion video with your phone. If the plunger is not firing straight the ball will hit the side wall before the bend and lose speed.

7oxford - Thanks, I will check it -- is there a way to make sure its firing straight...?

#5789 11 months ago

I recently purchased a JP and noticed that it is quite difficult to get the ball up the ramp. I feel as if I have to “power” the ball when hitting the ball with the flipper. When I do get the ball up the ramp, it is normally only with the left flipper (the lower and upper right flipper can’t successfully shoot the ball up the ramp). When I watched YouTube videos of others playing their game, it seems like they don’t have as much trouble as me.

Has anyone else experienced this? If so any ideas how to fix it?

#5790 11 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I recently purchased a JP and noticed that it is quite difficult to get the ball up the ramp. I feel as if I have to “power” the ball when hitting the ball with the flipper. When I do get the ball up the ramp, it is normally only with the left flipper (the lower and upper right flipper can’t successfully shoot the ball up the ramp). When I watched YouTube videos of others playing their game, it seems like they don’t have as much trouble as me.
Has anyone else experienced this? If so any ideas how to fix it?

Have you rebuilt your flippers recently? That will help a lot with the power of the flipper. After rebuilding mine, they were almost too strong. Other thing to check is the hanging switch at the front of the ramp. Make sure it can swing freely and isn't getting hung up on just feels tight.

#5791 11 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?
I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.

Mine is similar. Probably 10% of the time the ball exits the pops SDTM. I figured that’s why there’s a ball save!

#5792 11 months ago

Put a white rubber on the post at the bottom pop, white bounces more than black.
Mine sdtm's about 5%

#5793 11 months ago

Since I've got the machine opened up to install the Opto ball through, I bit the bullet and ordered a ColorDMD. Not really wanting to spend $400, I decided I could bring a peanut butter sandwich to work for the next 6 months. ha.

#5794 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Since I've got the machine opened up to install the Opto ball through, I bit the bullet and ordered a ColorDMD. Not really wanting to spend $400, I decided I could bring a peanut butter sandwich to work for the next 6 months. ha.

Oddly enough those two things are installed in completely different places. Sounds to me like you just needed some self-justification (or maybe spousal justification) to buy a ColorDMD.

#5795 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Since I've got the machine opened up to install the Opto ball through, I bit the bullet and ordered a ColorDMD. Not really wanting to spend $400, I decided I could bring a peanut butter sandwich to work for the next 6 months. ha.

Do it for a year and get the pinsound too, it goes in the same area as colordmd

#5796 11 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Do it for a year and get the pinsound too, it goes in the same area as colordmd

Beat me to it, except I would always do PinSound first.

#5797 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Oddly enough those two things are installed in completely different places. Sounds to me like you just needed some self-justification (or maybe spousal justification) to buy a ColorDMD.

Had to pull the machine out from the wall, which meant moving some other stuff around the room to get into the backbox to install the power connector to power the opto board.

And Pinsound, I'm just not sold on it. I want 100% original sounds. Now if someone can do a 1 to 1 conversion using high res sounds, then I'd be all over that, but since that hasn't been done, I'm holding off.

Now you may say that the new one sounds a lot better. Sure, it may. To you. But this is my 1994 childhood I'm remembering. Now, if I wasn't as much of a fan of JP as I am, then yeah, I'd probably get it. Heck, if I had any other machine and someone updated the sounds and callouts, I'd probably get it for that too because I'd have a less sentimental attachment to it.

#5798 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

I bit the bullet and ordered a ColorDMD. Not really wanting to spend $400, I decided I could bring a peanut butter sandwich to work for the next 6 months. ha.

Damn, I take a PB&J to work most days and still can't afford the ColorDMD

#5799 11 months ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Damn, I take a PB&J to work most days and still can't afford the ColorDMD

Reminds me of a story The TODAY show did a few years back "Ways to save money."

1. Don't smoke. I don't.
2. Dont get your latte every day. I don't
3. Keep proper air in the tires to not waste gas. I do.
4. Take out all extra weight in the car to save gas. Already done.

None of them helped me save at all. Its for those who are already wasteful. For me though. I eat out way too much for lunch. Its just not fun staying in to eat.

#5800 11 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

None of them helped me save at all. Its for those who are already wasteful. For me though. I eat out way too much for lunch. Its just not fun staying in to eat.

You can't have everything! Where would you put it?

Keep on stimulating the local economy.

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