(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • 10,109 posts
  • 572 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Garrett
  • Topic is favorited by 236 Pinsiders

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There are 10,109 posts in this topic. You are on page 114 of 203.
#5651 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

It's one of those things I'd love to have happen if someone else does it. If it's left up to me, I'll probably not bother. I have a CPR set, but I still have my old originals installed in the game with some DIY repairs and a DIY control room plastic that I hand painted.

I understand. I just finished designing the plastic & decal and color matching it based upon my home printing process for my broken center/pops plastic. Much better option for me vs. actually buying an entire new set. Hopefully, I can cut the plastic today (I use Lexan), apply underside decal, and install. Once I get it done I'll post pics here in the thread for all to see.

I may or may not make it available for others who need it. My only way to produce plastics is by hand, and I've actually sold a couple of dozen of them for other pins over the last year or two. I just find them too time consuming and labor intensive to enjoy making them enough to sell them. We'll see, I'm sure I can be talked into making a couple for the right price if someone just absolutely needs one.

BTW, you are correct in that the non-lit coloring will defiantly look different than when lit from underneath. I typically design towards matching colors when not lit, and have been fortunate with the plastics that I have made thus far either were not lit or lightly lit and far enough away from other plastics not to be readily noticeable that coloring was slightly different.

#5652 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Oh, I disagree. I use 13 SMD flashers in both my pins and love them (https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/13smdg18tower.htm)!
It is purely a personal preference, but I like the flashers actually impacting my visual senses. I first used more modest flashers and ended up sending them all back. I just didn't like that they didn't draw my attention at all due to being so muted. If you do go with the ones I link to above, you just need to be sure you have clearance for them wherever you want to use them (they are fairly tall). In some areas on my Getaway I had to use spacers to lower the socket further below the playfield, and on JP in a couple of spots use washers/nuts to raise the lens a little.
A couple of other decisions you will need to make are which white (warm, natural/cool, sunlight) and color matching inserts or not. Personally, I prefer the natural/cool white as they really brighten up the playfield and bring out the coloring of the artwork. The warm whites more resemble the original incandescent bulbs, but to me they just make things look dingy and dark. Of course, then you need to figure out frosted or non-frosted or no lens at all (I prefer non-frosted/no-lens for inserts and frosted for GI). I'm one who matches bulb color to insert color, but others will tell you this is a faux pas. I also prefer to only use white for all GI as it brings out the color of the plastics and the playfield artwork versus using colored GI (have to be careful with color GI or pics of your in will show up in the Rainbow Puke thread 8).
Finally, for the GI and insert bulbs, make sure you purchase the non-ghosting versions. Otherwise the faint flicker all over the playfield will drive you nuts.

The flashers on JP seem to be quite the hot topic. I personally found the flashers too intense when I swapped them over to 8 SMD LEDs. I ended up changing the one on the right playfield to a Jeep with LED headlight flashers and white underglow and removed the one on the left for now.

GI I found sunlight white works really well, it's not dingy like the warm whites but not super harsh like the bright whites. I picked up some of the super bright GI lights (optix maximus) from comet on my latest order, so I'm curious to see how much brighter they are. I'm running DIY pin stadium lights in my JP, but I think these could really help brighten up the back corners. I'll be testing them in my Getaway and my Super Mario Bros.

I personally do not like colour GI at all, I find it washes out the artwork. For backbox it can be okay (red in the sky of JP), but otherwise I stick with white frosted lights. I do colour match inserts though, I find it makes the colours really vibrant. Lighting some of the larger inserts evenly can be a bit tricky though, I haven't found a solution I'm happy with yet.

#5653 4 years ago

I replaced the clear domes in my JP with blue, they look better on the blue plastics and they take a lot of the flashers. Domes are cheap probably less than an LED flasher, if you getting blinded give it a shot. As far as LED lighting in the GI I try and match warmth. I use warms under reds and orange plastic or artwork and cool under blues. I do like to color match inserts but that is personal preference and it does mean you have to pay more attention when your order LEDs. The backbox in JP I put one white LED in the sun everything else I left incandescent as you get lots of hot spots and glare on the playfield the more you light up the backbox. I did color match the back box across the top with red and orange or yellow so the topper lights up just like the sunset.

#5654 4 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Lighting some of the larger inserts evenly can be a bit tricky though, I haven't found a solution I'm happy with yet.

If you haven't already, give these a try for the larger inserts: https://www.cometpinball.com/2-SMD-FLEX-Non-Ghosting-p/2smdflexng.htm

You can also use single flex sometimes, and back off the distance between the led and the underside of the insert to better illuminate the entire insert: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflexng.htm

Quoted from Geteos:

I personally found the flashers too intense when I swapped them over to 8 SMD LEDs.

I definitely get this perspective, but I just love the lightshow that the bright flashers produce. I encourage anyone who has not converted a pin to LED before to first buy a few sample bulbs, including different flashers, to see what you are going to like before you place a full order. Spending a few extra bucks up front (you will end up re-using some of these bulbs) is well worth the price and time versus placing a full order only to not be happy with some of your selections, and then you have to either live with it, eat the cost of buying more bulbs, or going through a return hassle.

#5655 4 years ago

Shout out to edward472 for making that location chart for all the lights.

I decided to take it one step further and map out every location with descriptions and a suggested LED type for those who are starting out from scratch.

The 2nd sheet is a pivot table to help break down the data into a more manageable count, it should make ordering easier.

Please have a look and let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VL6EY2foEy2GG9b4U24Dq6RRhcF-90cNPxoPHR_cUYE/edit?usp=sharing

#5656 4 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Shout out to edward472 for making that location chart for all the lights.
I decided to take it one step further and map out every location with descriptions and a suggested LED type for those who are starting out from scratch.
The 2nd sheet is a pivot table to help break down the data into a more manageable count, it should make ordering easier.
Please have a look and let me know what you guys think. Thanks!
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VL6EY2foEy2GG9b4U24Dq6RRhcF-90cNPxoPHR_cUYE/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks man - will definitely use this.

#5658 4 years ago

Winteriscoming will eventually have the best T-Rex ever for this pin, but as the title states it is a work in progress:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress

#5659 4 years ago

I'm sure PinSound has been discussed in this thread before, but not anytime recently that I can recall. For both long-time and new owners, I highly recommend that one of the first investments you make regarding upgrades for this pin is PinSound. If you are not familiar with PinSound, it completely changes the game play experience. Not only does it bring true CD quality to the game, but the user developed custom orchestrations are a game changer. For this pin Endprodukt has done an excellent job with his orchestration that is free for all to download. He has captured music, quotes, and sound effects from the actual Jurassic Park movie and strategically put them together for an immersive experience. Even still, PinSound allows anyone to create their own orchestrations for their pin using whatever music and sounds they want.

Also, I highly recommend the PinSound Headphones Station whether you use headphones or not. This great addon not only provides a quick and convenient way to use headphones with the pin, but also provides external volume control and gives you the ability to easily switch between orchestrations if you have more than one on your PinSound without having to open the coin door.

If you are on the fence wondering if PinSound will really make a difference, then by all means I'm happy to answer any questions you may have or even take and post a video of JP gameplay with PinsSound in action. Also, if you want to learn a little more about it in order to make an informed purchasing decision, please take the time to read through my guide thread for PinSound here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound

I know this may sound like a commercial, but I am not affiliated with PinSound in any way. I was new to pinball just a couple of years ago, and purchased my first pin, Getaway, but soon needed something to draw me into it more. I discovered and researched PinSound, made the purchase, and then I was soon on my way creating orchestrations for it. I must say, in my opinion this is the most impactful upgrade you can add to any classic pin. It really allows you to immerse yourself into a game even more, provides variety to the experience, and lets you express your creativity in customizing the sounds of a game to what you like. If audio editing is not your thing, there is also a great PinSound community of people who create awesome orchestrations for a multitude of pins and happily share them for free with others (http://pinsound-community.org).

I've gone on enough, but I'm so passionate about this product that I just feel like everyone should experience it. I know that many here may already have a PinSound or are very familiar with it, but for those of you who don't have one or have never really heard of it, I will happily share my experiences with you and I am also always happy to help with installation and operational support.

#5660 4 years ago

Finished my replacement plastic. Color match is really close, although the adhesive sheet I use to attach the decal to the underside of the plastic lightens it a little. I also made one of the holes a little too large (followed a template I had, but obviously too big), but nothing a washer couldn't fix.

Side-by-side
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Before
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After
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#5661 4 years ago

I seem to be dominating the thread this morning - sorry, but lots on my mind.

A few pages back somebody mentioned the EnerGI Maestro. This was the first time I've ever heard of this, and after checking out the website I am very interested.

In helping me determine if I should purchase one or not, I was wondering if those of you who have installed one on JP can please comment regarding your overall thoughts, ease/difficulty of installation, satisfaction with your purchase, your settings, etc.

#5662 4 years ago

@Mr_Tantrum

Just thinking with your pinsound headphones output you could add a bluetooth adapter, then send the sound to a another source in your basement (IE speakers in the ceiling). If you want an even more immersive way to play

#5663 4 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Mr_Tantrum
Just thinking with your pinsound headphones output you could add a bluetooth adapter, then send the sound to a another source in your basement (IE speakers in the ceiling). If you want an even more immersive way to play

Cool idea, and would pair well with a big screen TV mounted vertically showing the pin action.

#5664 4 years ago

Speaking to Mr_Tantrum 's post regarding Pinsound - I just got an email that says they're doing free worldwide shipping for the next 48 hours -- coupon code is WINGS -- if only I waited an extra 4 days before buying one

#5665 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm sure PinSound has been discussed in this thread before, but not anytime recently that I can recall. For both long-time and new owners, I highly recommend that one of the first investments you make regarding upgrades for this pin is PinSound

I agree with you. PinSound is the best mod for JP (with OST remix). My friends came to play JP and told me "Are you sure this game is built in 1993? Why the sound and music is not like the age?". Because of PinSound, it makes a big difference.

#5666 4 years ago

Quick question, should the bottom two flippers be at the same place when fully up? My left flipper looks lower than the right.

#5667 4 years ago

Hi all. Wondering where is the best place to get dinosaur figures and palm trees for my JP?

#5668 4 years ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Hi all. Wondering where is the best place to get dinosaur figures and palm trees for my JP?

Do some reading man, its all in this thread. There are also 3 other threads about mods.

#5669 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I seem to be dominating the thread this morning - sorry, but lots on my mind.
A few pages back somebody mentioned the EnerGI Maestro. This was the first time I've ever heard of this, and after checking out the website I am very interested.
In helping me determine if I should purchase one or not, I was wondering if those of you who have installed one on JP can please comment regarding your overall thoughts, ease/difficulty of installation, satisfaction with your purchase, your settings, etc.

Its very easy to install, just a matter of swapping some connectors. Biggest advantage of this system is it doesn't need the relay for GI lighting so no more clicking during GI effects and that alone makes it worth the cost for home use in my opinion. I generally just turn the GI brightness down a little which is done through the programming buttons.

IMG_3452 (resized).JPGIMG_3452 (resized).JPGIMG_3455 (resized).JPGIMG_3455 (resized).JPG
#5670 4 years ago

I've got Pinsound and GI Maestro in my JP, both highly recommended. I have the OCD board for the inserts as well..

#5671 4 years ago

So.... I was cleaning my JP playfield, lowered it and somehow sparks flew right as I was trying to seat it. Yes I know turn it off. Now, the trex AND the trough clear are not responding at all. During the trex diagnostic nothing happens and I get an error for trex switches. When I put it in DX mode the switches register. Any ideas where to start??

#5672 4 years ago

Have you checked your fuses? There are a few candidates for getting in the way when lowering the playfield coil wise, especially the boat dock IIRC.

Edward472 sounds like one of your coil stops is probably more worn on one side than the other, or possibly more slop in the linkage, plunger, etc. A flipper rebuild kit is the way to solve it.

#5673 4 years ago

All my fuses in the back box and cabinet boards looked good. I don’t know what else it could have shorted out. The flippers still test and all light work, just trex and most coils have ceased . Auto plunge works but not much else. You think it’s a flipper issue?

#5674 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

So.... I was cleaning my JP playfield, lowered it and somehow sparks flew right as I was trying to seat it. Yes I know turn it off. Now, the trex AND the trough clear are not responding at all. During the trex diagnostic nothing happens and I get an error for trex switches. When I put it in DX mode the switches register. Any ideas where to start??

Start off with thoroughly inspecting the area that made contact, look for pinched, cut, broken wires and exposed terminals bent and contacting things they should not be.

Check your shaker motor board for blown fuses.

Check Q45 on the CPU board, Q37 upstream and the resistor array in between the two

#5675 4 years ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Check your shaker motor board for blown fuses.

I second this... if the shaker motor board is working properly the TREX won't work. It's in the cabinet on the left hand side just above the shaker.

#5676 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Have you checked your fuses? There are a few candidates for getting in the way when lowering the playfield coil wise, especially the boat dock IIRC.
Edward472 sounds like one of your coil stops is probably more worn on one side than the other, or possibly more slop in the linkage, plunger, etc. A flipper rebuild kit is the way to solve it.

So they are suppose to be symmetrical when fully extended?

#5677 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Quick question, should the bottom two flippers be at the same place when fully up? My left flipper looks lower than the right.

Mine are just like yours in that the right flipper has more range. Can’t tell you if this is by design, soothing a previous owner did, or a simple adjustment. My flipper assemblies look really good, so I am sure they had a fairly recent rebuild. I just need to take a closer look at the stops when I get a chance.

#5678 4 years ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Hi all. Wondering where is the best place to get dinosaur figures and palm trees for my JP?

Amazon for one and then if you google various terms there are some online model companies with good pricing. Papo makes the most detailed and Safari Ltd is a step or two below them.

#5679 4 years ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Its very easy to install, just a matter of swapping some connectors. Biggest advantage of this system is it doesn't need the relay for GI lighting so no more clicking during GI effects and that alone makes it worth the cost for home use in my opinion. I generally just turn the GI brightness down a little which is done through the programming buttons.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you.

Quoted from chrisnack:

I've got Pinsound and GI Maestro in my JP, both highly recommended. I have the OCD board for the inserts as well..

Now I have to ask what the OCD board is.

#5680 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thank you.

Now I have to ask what the OCD board is.

http://www.ledocd.com

#5681 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Mine are just like yours in that the right flipper has more range. Can’t tell you if this is by design, soothing a previous owner did, or a simple adjustment. My flipper assemblies look really good, so I am sure they had a fairly recent rebuild. I just need to take a closer look at the stops when I get a chance.

Probably has a coil stop that's more worn. I lost about 1" of range when i replaced the coil stops with new ones, they were super beat up though, the linkage was hitting the coil actually. I did a full flipper rebuild and replaced everything.

#5682 4 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Probably has a coil stop that's more worn. I lost about 1" of range when i replaced the coil stops with new ones, they were super beat up though, the linkage was hitting the coil actually. I did a full flipper rebuild and replaced everything.

I just rebuilt the flippers on my getaway and it looked like the flippers had less range then before. The old stops were pretty worn down so that would make a lot of sense.

I also rebuilt the upper right flipper on my JP and it really helped with making the helicopter shot.

#5683 4 years ago

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro but had to sign up to be on a waiting list.

Anyone aware of an alternate source or one for sale anywhere? I checked the Pinside Market, but nothing there.

#5684 4 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Probably has a coil stop that's more worn. I lost about 1" of range when i replaced the coil stops with new ones, they were super beat up though, the linkage was hitting the coil actually. I did a full flipper rebuild and replaced everything.

Thanks for the insight. Doesn't seem to impact gameplay, so I'm not too concerned. I'll take a closer look and add any parts needed to my whish list when I happen to make my next parts order.

#5685 4 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

I just rebuilt the flippers on my getaway and it looked like the flippers had less range then before. The old stops were pretty worn down so that would make a lot of sense.
I also rebuilt the upper right flipper on my JP and it really helped with making the helicopter shot.

Yeah I should redo the top one as well.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro but had to sign up to be on a waiting list.
Anyone aware of an alternate source or one for sale anywhere? I checked the Pinside Market, but nothing there.

I got lucky when I ordered a few weeks ago!

#5686 4 years ago

Still having issues with my T-rex after following several suggestions. Does anyone have any idea of where I might look to next?

You can see latest post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#post-4934755

#5687 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.
Sidenote:
I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:
nocreditdot
jp1993
groucho
I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.

Opto boards with harness are on they way!
Status is: sold out (I kept 2 pieces in case of lost package/backup).
Special thanks to my wife, she helped a lot about component insertion, packaging and logistics

I am going to send tracking numbers and installation instruction until Monday.

#5688 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Opto boards with harness are on they way!
Status is: sold out (I kept 2 pieces in case of lost package/backup).
Special thanks to my wife, she helped a lot about component insertion, packaging and logistics
I am going to send tracking numbers and installation instruction until Monday.

Can't wait. Thanks for everything Davi!!

#5689 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Opto boards with harness are on they way!
Status is: sold out (I kept 2 pieces in case of lost package/backup).
Special thanks to my wife, she helped a lot about component insertion, packaging and logistics
I am going to send tracking numbers and installation instruction until Monday.

Was going to ask if you had Tracking numbers. Curious how far mine is away. Saw some had already received theirs last week.

#5690 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Still having issues with my T-rex after following several suggestions. Does anyone have any idea of where I might look to next?
You can see latest post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#post-4934755

Hi Tantrum
Have you checked all in line wired switches or coils diodes in the switch matrix if al diodes are allright, that can cause weird problems.
Check in
rows
and collums
in the matrix for
rex left
rex right
rex center
rex up down
and maybe eject?
Ill post the matrix in a moment

#5691 4 years ago
b9afc27d14a5aa5a59744da5be5c8908a2bdd9e4 (resized).pngb9afc27d14a5aa5a59744da5be5c8908a2bdd9e4 (resized).png
#5692 4 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

[quoted image]

Yes, I did check the matrix, and everything else works perfectly. I have movement in all directions. The main issue is that the motor is running non-stop, so we are leaning towards a faulty transistor.

#5693 4 years ago

Okay, I'm figuring everything out and getting better at the game. I do have one question regarding a shot, however. What is the best way to shoot the T-Rex saucer? All I have figured out so far is to hit the boat dock (left flipper mostly, but I can occasionally backhand it with the right flipper), wait for the ball to come down, then with the upper flipper hit it into the T-Rex pit which will feed the ball into the saucer.

#5694 4 years ago

I find shooting the left loop so it rolls over onto the top right flipper is usually how I end up hitting it.

#5695 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, I did check the matrix, and everything else works perfectly. I have movement in all directions. The main issue is that the motor is running non-stop, so we are leaning towards a faulty transistor.

I believe it is Q25&Q27 on the CPU for dino motor relay. Check those, if you need some guidance pm me

#5696 4 years ago

Tried to go on the Pinsound site for the board and the site is down

#5697 4 years ago

After looking closer at the manual, look at Q27 and upstream from there back to the 7408

#5698 4 years ago
Quoted from pduffy:

Tried to go on the Pinsound site for the board and the site is down

https://www.pinsound.org working great for me now.

#5699 4 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

After looking closer at the manual, look at Q27 and upstream from there back to the 7408

Can you please evaluate my post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#postbox

Nevermind, see next post | T-Rex is fixed!

#5700 4 years ago

Well everyone, my T-Rex is back from the Chiropractor and has regained his full range of motion. Issue for me ended up being a blown Q24 transistor on the MPU board. For those who may experience the same issue, my symptoms were basically that the side-to-side movement was erratic and not working. When looking closer, the issue was that the side-to-side motor was always in an on state (i.e. it never turned off). It would change direction, but would eventually force the T-Rex all the way to one extreme or the other depending on the direction the motor was spinning.

You can read all of the details and resolution here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues

Thanks to everyone he offered help, and a special thanks to winteriscoming for all of his help diagnosing and getting down to the root cause.

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