(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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There are 7536 posts in this topic. You are on page 113 of 151.
#5601 11 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Super impressed
My board arrived today, it even came in its own custom 3d printed travel case for safe shipping. Wow, what service.
A big thank you all, the way from Australia
[quoted image][quoted image]

Snazzy!

#5602 11 months ago

Okay Jurassic Park owners, I've finished my themed JP target decal set and wanted to show them off to everyone. I will be selling the decals (see below), but before we get into that I would like to highlight a few things.

- There are 11 targets in the set: 3 left bank (3 full red), 2 right bank (1 full green, 1 half red), 5 upper bank (3 half green, 2 half red), and the captured ball target (1 full white)
- All of the decals are themed according to the corresponding dinosaur for a given target as stated in the manual. Where there are two of a given dinosaur for multiple targets I used a male and female rendering for variation (the one exception is the 3 bank Dilophosaurus/Spitter where there both genders but the middle target is not fanned out).
- The background of the targets is styled after the Isla Nublar graphic in the middle of the playfield, and colored according to the target the decal is applied to (i.e. red or green)
- Decals are printed on OEM ultra premium photo paper using a 6-color inkjet photo printer with OEM inks. Then they are coated with a 3mil clear gloss vinyl, and a high tack adhesive layer is applied to the back. Next, they are precision cut and then the corners are rounded to give them a professional look. Finally, I color the edges appropriately (green or red) so that they blend in with the target instead of having a white border exposed (except for the white egg target).

I'm offering the full set of 11 targets for $30 which includes postage to US addresses (I will ship outside of US, but will have to quote postage on a per order basis). Please PM me if you are interested in purchasing, and I will provide payment details and ETA for order.

Alternatively, I have designed a decal set for just the Spitter bank which resembles the playfield graphic of the Dilophosaurus. If you would like to purchase a set of these 3 targets for just the left bank instead of the full set of 11, they are $6 including US postage.

Left Bank: Dilophosaurus/Spitter
TargetPhoto1.jpg

Right Bank: Baryonyx (top-half/red), Gallimimus (low-full/green)
TargetPhoto2.jpg

Top Bank: From low to top (left to right in photo) - Triceritops (half/green), Herrerasuarus low (half/red), Herrerasuarus top (half/red), Brachiasuarus low (half/green), Brachiasaurus top (half/green)
TargetPhoto3.jpgTargetPhoto4.jpg

Egg (haven't had a chance to install yet, so no install pic):
Egg.jpg

Alternate Left Bank Only (all 3 decals are the same)
Spitter_Target.jpg

#5603 11 months ago

I've asked before, but will try again. Can anyone please provide me with or point me to either an outline or scan of the plastic above the middle target bank. I would like to create a new one since mine is broken (came that way when I purchased the pin).

plastic.jpg

#5604 11 months ago

This look great! Finally a good looking set of target decals!

#5605 11 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

This look great! Finally a good looking set of target decals!

Thanks. I'm glad you like them. Sorry it took me so long to acquire a JP so that I would think to take a stab at target decals for it.

#5606 11 months ago

Anyone have trouble with a colordmd LCD install? In the colordmd menu's everything is fine but once I exit the screen has a weird flickering going on.

#5607 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've asked before, but will try again. Can anyone please provide me with or point me to either an outline or scan of the plastic above the middle target bank. I would like to create a new one since mine is broken (came that way when I purchased the pin).
[quoted image]

I have the following two scans of the requested JP plastic that I chased down from various Pinside users who were generous enough to help me out when I was working with Pinbits to get plastic protectors created for JP a few years ago. Pinsider markp99 provided a complete set of JP plastic scans and Pinsider winteriscoming also provided several JP plastic scans for me at the time.

Hopefully these two JP plastic scans help you out.

Gord

Pop_Bumper (resized).jpg
129606 (resized).jpg

#5608 11 months ago

Morning All,

I came home with my first JP yesterday night and had a question regarding the 'T-Gate' -- is the ball supposed to go up the shooter lane, through the T-Gate and into the pop-bumpers? it seems to hit the t-gate and just head down the playfield - meaning unless I flipper-hit the ball into the pop-bumpers it doesn't actually go into that location.

#5609 11 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Morning All,
I came home with my first JP yesterday night and had a question regarding the 'T-Gate' -- is the ball supposed to go up the shooter lane, through the T-Gate and into the pop-bumpers? it seems to hit the t-gate and just head down the playfield - meaning unless I flipper-hit the ball into the pop-bumpers it doesn't actually go into that location.

Yes it should go through into the pops but it was common for people to flip that gate around for some reason. Mine was like that when I got it too.

#5610 11 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Yes it should go through into the pops but it was common for people to flip that gate around for some reason. Mine was like that when I got it too.

Thanks J-Freeze - I'll take a look!

#5611 11 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I have the following two scans of the requested JP plastic that I chased down from various Pinside users who were generous enough to help me out when I was working with Pinbits to get plastic protectors created for JP a few years ago. Pinsider markp99 provided a complete set of JP plastic scans and Pinsider winteriscoming also provided several JP plastic scans for me at the time.
Hopefully these two JP plastic scans help you out.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thank you!

#5612 11 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Morning All,
I came home with my first JP yesterday night and had a question regarding the 'T-Gate' -- is the ball supposed to go up the shooter lane, through the T-Gate and into the pop-bumpers? it seems to hit the t-gate and just head down the playfield - meaning unless I flipper-hit the ball into the pop-bumpers it doesn't actually go into that location.

Welcome to the club - new owner here myself.

#5613 11 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I have the following two scans of the requested JP plastic that I chased down from various Pinside users who were generous enough to help me out when I was working with Pinbits to get plastic protectors created for JP a few years ago. Pinsider markp99 provided a complete set of JP plastic scans and Pinsider winteriscoming also provided several JP plastic scans for me at the time.
Hopefully these two JP plastic scans help you out.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.

JPplastic1.jpg
#5614 11 months ago

Sorry to be a pest today everyone - but i'm trying to find that post regarding those wires on the underside of the playfield that need to be moved... for the life of me I can't find that post...

The ones that were strapped too close to another object and getting pinched...?

#5615 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.[quoted image]

My reproduction doesn’t have that hole. Don’t remember if the original did or not.

#5616 11 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

My reproduction doesn’t have that hole. Don’t remember if the original did or not.

My broken original did but wasn't used. Thanks, I'm not going to drill it on my replacement.

#5617 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.[quoted image]

There is a clear plastic post that goes there

#5619 11 months ago
Quoted from Asmig:

There is a clear plastic post that goes there

Thanks guys. Neither I nor the previous 10+ year owner ever had it, so I'll think I'll just go without since I don't want to make a special order for that and a ring that matches my others.

#5620 11 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Hey guys: I need to replace c2 on the power board as the display and sound are taking a bit longer to come on AND I can see a bit of leakage.
Looks like a 100uf 25vdc cap.
Once I remove old one, is there a good way to clean any corrosion off before replacing?

Well replaced c2 and all issues are resolved.

Just wanted to memorialize it
For
Someone else

#5621 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.[quoted image]

Below is a photo of that plastic on my JP. As others have stated that extra hole in the plastic is for the clear plastic post shown in the photo below. My guess is that this clear plastic post serves to keep airballs from getting stuck on top of this plastic.

Gord

P1010257 (resized).JPG

#5622 11 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Below is a photo of that plastic on my JP. As others have stated that extra hole in the plastic is for the clear plastic post shown in the photo below. My guess is that this clear plastic post serves to keep airballs from getting stuck on top of this plastic.

Gord

And the hex spacer under the wire ramp trial. Some JP today have that part missing.

#5623 11 months ago

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.

When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.

This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.

When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.

Thanks!

20190407_194709 (resized).jpg
#5624 11 months ago

The legs on those last 3 trough switches on the left are all bent pretty bad, especially the last one...

#5625 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.
When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.
This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.
Thanks![quoted image]

I was about to say the same thing. They look very suspect. Especially the last one.

#5626 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.
When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.
This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.
Thanks![quoted image]

Did you have one ball on the V.U.K., ... When you did the switch test?
The ball must press the micro switch actuator to the V.U.K. or else it goes into
a ball search type mode tying to find the balls.
Note: O.E.M. switch is a light weight actuator... it tends to go bad if not adjusted
correctly. New micro switch replacements tend to have a bit too heavy stroke in order
to activate the micro switch. The balls are note heavy enough to "push" the actuator closed.
I almost think it would have better to use a leaf switch type set up... I guess that is why
later revisions use infrared L.E.D.s to combat the problem.

#5627 11 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The legs on those last 3 trough switches on the left are all bent pretty bad, especially the last one...

Thanks.

Stupid question... when you say "the legs" do you mean the part that physically touches the ball or the parts underneath connected to wires?

#5628 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Thanks.
Stupid question... when you say "the legs" do you mean the part that physically touches the ball or the parts underneath connected to wires?

The wire connections.

#5629 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Thanks.
Stupid question... when you say "the legs" do you mean the part that physically touches the ball or the parts underneath connected to wires?

"legs" are referring to the metal leads where the wires are connected that extend out of the switches.

#5630 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.
When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.
This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.
Thanks![quoted image]

My assumption: while you lifted the playfield, the harness is grabbed by the lockbar receiver, and pulled the wires. Left 3 switches are damaged.

20190408_214534 (resized).jpg
#5631 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

My assumption: while you lifted the playfield, the harness is grabbed by the lockbar receiver, and pulled the wires. Left 3 switches are damaged.[quoted image]

Didn't you invent a fix for this problem (well, a side benefit anyway)?

#5632 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Didn't you invent a fix for this problem (well, a side benefit anyway)?

Well, you can still smash that too, lol.

#5633 11 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Well, you can still smash that too, lol.

That's correct. I am going to design a protector, and will share the stl file for 3D printing.

#5634 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

That's correct. I am going to design a protector, and will share the stl file for 3D printing.

Their was a clear plastic cover for the trough micro switches.
A lot of people/operators have removed this part from many
of the Data East games that where made.

#5635 11 months ago

IPDB has a picture of the cover.
Look under Tales From the Crypt.
Under the playfield picture.

#5636 11 months ago

I have got one somewhere.

#5637 11 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The legs on those last 3 trough switches on the left are all bent pretty bad, especially the last one...

First answer was the correct one. Thanks for the help guys. The "Leg" had bent down and was physically touching the mounting bracket. A simple bend and it's back good as new. I have attached a photo from the "long angle" to show exactly what the issue was. This is a post bend photo in hopes it helps some random person in 5 years. Thanks!

Bent (resized).jpg
#5638 11 months ago

Hi All,

I'm looking to buy a high quality JP replacement plastics set - curious if there's a particularly well liked & respected place that the group prefers to buy them from?

#5639 11 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Hi All,
I'm looking to buy a high quality JP replacement plastics set - curious if there's a particularly well liked & respected place that the group prefers to buy them from?

I'm not sure if anyone has posted results for JP plastics from CPR since their move to digital printing. There's a company out of Europe who has an incomplete set, and I believe the review of their quality indicated they were unacceptable. The screen printed CPR sets have had generally positive reviews with the caveat that the blue is much darker than stock, necessitating swapping out all plastics. I don't think they're offering screen printed sets of them anymore, so new JP plastic purchases from CPR are likely from their on-demand digital printing process.

#5640 11 months ago

Hi all. I just got a JP and want to do the led conversion. I know I saw someone created a pictured breakdown of all of the bulbs needed but can’t find it. Anyone have the link or post? Just need numbers of bulbs. Oh also I updated the roms to chads 6.0 and sound. The other roms- U17/21 etc are the 4. Something version. What do these do and do I need to update as well? Thanks

#5641 11 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi all. I just got a JP and want to do the led conversion. I know I saw someone created a pictured breakdown of all of the bulbs needed but can’t find it. Anyone have the link or post? Just need numbers of bulbs. Oh also I updated the roms to chads 6.0 and sound. The other roms- U17/21 etc are the 4. Something version. What do these do and do I need to update as well? Thanks

I don't have the exact numbers (someone else will give you those) but let me give you this one piece of advice so you don't repeat my mistake. DO NOT PUT 8 SMD FLASHERS IN THIS MACHINE! I might go with 3 SMD tops. I ended up putting electrical tape over 5/8 of the SMDs on mine and that made it so I could play without a seizure.

Good luck!

#5642 11 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi all. I just got a JP and want to do the led conversion. I know I saw someone created a pictured breakdown of all of the bulbs needed but can’t find it. Anyone have the link or post? Just need numbers of bulbs. Oh also I updated the roms to chads 6.0 and sound. The other roms- U17/21 etc are the 4. Something version. What do these do and do I need to update as well? Thanks

That was me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/112#post-4919193

#5644 11 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not sure if anyone has posted results for JP plastics from CPR since their move to digital printing. There's a company out of Europe who has an incomplete set, and I believe the review of their quality indicated they were unacceptable. The screen printed CPR sets have had generally positive reviews with the caveat that the blue is much darker than stock, necessitating swapping out all plastics. I don't think they're offering screen printed sets of them anymore, so new JP plastic purchases from CPR are likely from their on-demand digital printing process.

Thanks winteriscoming -- might be too expensive for my blood to buy the full set just yet, but I shall try it out in the future.

#5645 11 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not sure if anyone has posted results for JP plastics from CPR since their move to digital printing. There's a company out of Europe who has an incomplete set, and I believe the review of their quality indicated they were unacceptable. The screen printed CPR sets have had generally positive reviews with the caveat that the blue is much darker than stock, necessitating swapping out all plastics. I don't think they're offering screen printed sets of them anymore, so new JP plastic purchases from CPR are likely from their on-demand digital printing process.

Id like to see if they fixed the blue since their move to digital.

#5646 11 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Id like to see if they fixed the blue since their move to digital.

I asked in their announcement thread about digital printing, and they'll allow you to define your own colors if you want. However, I also read that the screen printed colors were aiming for the correct color when illuminated, so I'm not sure if that's a factor in the digital printed versions. I'd prefer the colors to match the stock unlit plastics, but I haven't put any effort into identifying the Pantone colors.

#5647 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I don't have the exact numbers (someone else will give you those) but let me give you this one piece of advice so you don't repeat my mistake. DO NOT PUT 8 SMD FLASHERS IN THIS MACHINE! I might go with 3 SMD tops. I ended up putting electrical tape over 5/8 of the SMDs on mine and that made it so I could play without a seizure.
Good luck!

Oh, I disagree. I use 13 SMD flashers in both my pins and love them (https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/13smdg18tower.htm)!

It is purely a personal preference, but I like the flashers actually impacting my visual senses. I first used more modest flashers and ended up sending them all back. I just didn't like that they didn't draw my attention at all due to being so muted. If you do go with the ones I link to above, you just need to be sure you have clearance for them wherever you want to use them (they are fairly tall). In some areas on my Getaway I had to use spacers to lower the socket further below the playfield, and on JP in a couple of spots use washers/nuts to raise the lens a little.

A couple of other decisions you will need to make are which white (warm, natural/cool, sunlight) and color matching inserts or not. Personally, I prefer the natural/cool white as they really brighten up the playfield and bring out the coloring of the artwork. The warm whites more resemble the original incandescent bulbs, but to me they just make things look dingy and dark. Of course, then you need to figure out frosted or non-frosted or no lens at all (I prefer non-frosted/no-lens for inserts and frosted for GI). I'm one who matches bulb color to insert color, but others will tell you this is a faux pas. I also prefer to only use white for all GI as it brings out the color of the plastics and the playfield artwork versus using colored GI (have to be careful with color GI or pics of your pin will show up in the infamous Rainbow Puke thread 8).

Finally, for the GI and insert bulbs, make sure you purchase the non-ghosting versions. Otherwise the faint flicker all over the playfield will drive you nuts.

#5648 11 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I asked in their announcement thread about digital printing, and they'll allow you to define your own colors if you want. However, I also read that the screen printed colors were aiming for the correct color when illuminated, so I'm not sure if that's a factor in the digital printed versions. I'd prefer the colors to match the stock unlit plastics, but I haven't put any effort into identifying the Pantone colors.

I have no idea what the original Pantone color designations are from the manufacturer, but I do own a Pantone color bridge (coated and non-coated). I'm sure I could provide some Pantone values that are close for both solid and process color. I would assume CPR's digital print is process color based, but would have to ask them. The reason this is important is because the same Pantone value will generate a different looking color for solid vs. processed. There are also other factors that impact color production on a process color system (i.e. combining multiple base colors to produce another color) such as rendering profile, number/color of base inks (CMYK or CMYK+), etc., but I assume they have their equipment calibrated to accurately hit the Pantone standards as best they can. Important thing would be to discuss in detail with them, and then to actually see a proof in person.

#5649 11 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Awesome thank you

Also, if you are buying a full set of leds, take advantage of the free shipping and buy the DMD glare eliminator while you're at it.

#5650 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have no idea what the original Pantone color designations are from the manufacturer, but I do own a Pantone color bridge (coated and non-coated). I'm sure I could provide some Pantone values that are close for both solid and process color. I would assume CPR's digital print is process color based, but would have to ask them. The reason this is important is because the same Pantone value will generate a different looking color for solid vs. processed. There are also other factors that impact color production on a process color system (i.e. combining multiple base colors to produce another color) such as rendering profile, number/color of base inks (CMYK or CMYK+), etc., but I assume they have their equipment calibrated to accurately hit the Pantone standards as best they can. Important thing would be to discuss in detail with them, and then to actually see a proof in person.

It's one of those things I'd love to have happen if someone else does it. If it's left up to me, I'll probably not bother. I have a CPR set, but I still have my old originals installed in the game with some DIY repairs and a DIY control room plastic that I hand painted.

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