Okay, I need some help with my T-Rex side movement. I have read everything I can find, but did not uncover my exact scenario. Previous owner told me he had disabled side movement and he hadn’t had time to diagnose, so thought I would give it a try. Here is the situation this far:
- Blue power cable for motor was disconnected, so I reconnected for my testing (disconnected when done since I don’t want the motor running full time).
- Manual side movement is not possible (i.e. try to turn the T-rex by hand and it won't budge - no play in it at all).
- Removed motor from gearbox and manual movement is free (of course) and when looking into gearbox it appears that the gear that is visible is fully intact with all teeth.
- While motor is disconnected when I turn on pin the motor begins to run and never stops running.
- In T-Rex test mode, motor does reverse direction back and forth with press of left and right flipper buttons.
- If I hold the long gear that is attached to the motor while running, I can easily stop its rotation, but seems like the motor itself is still spinning (ie the gear is slipping).
- Voltage to motor is pretty constant 4.5V.

My first thought is why is the motor spinning at all times? Why is this not enough force to turn T-rex, and has this trashed the motor?

Do yourself a favor and get a pair of Papo pteranodons. The stock versions look like crap, and the movie didn't even have any in it anyway (but let's ignore that for now). At least the Papo versions look like the ones from JP3.

I was looking at these (inexpensive): ebay.com link: Data East Jurassic Park Pinball Machine Pteranodon Bird Set A MUST HAVE New

If you're looking for stock versions, those are not stock. That's someone trying to mark up some cheap (and cheap-looking) toys. They're no better than the stock ones, but they aren't stock.

Not looking for stock. Just something similar.

Is this something like you are suggesting? Not sure what size I am looking for, but don't want them overly large (e.g. would like similar size to originals). https://www.amazon.com/Papo-The-Dinosaur-Figure-Pteranodon/dp/B000GL1BHO/ref=sr_1_1

Just read questions. One person measures as having an 9" wingspan (sounds way too big).

Also, I see what you mean by the Papo quality. There stuff looks highly detailed compared to everything else I've seen.

That's the one. They're not overly large. I used a heat gun to pose them differently, and curled the wings down more than they were.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/share-your-jurassic-park-mods/page/4#post-1092094

From a support thread I created, things seem to be pointing to my gearbox. I've searched everywhere, but cannot seem to find an explanation on how to remove it from the game. Can someone please detail for me (or point me to a place that already describes it) how to remove the gearbox? I assume you have to somehow pull the entire T-Rex assembly, but I can't figure out how to do that either.

Looks like I'm missing the eyelet (I see a hole where it should be). Oh well, don't know that I need it anyway.

If I'm recalling correctly, there's a t-nut in the bottom of the cab that the eyebolt threads through. You can get a replacement at the hardware store. Not sure on thread size off hand.

Mine didn't have the eyebolt or the strap. I found a suitable replacement black rubber strap with metal hooks on the ends in the towing section of Lowes.

It's handy when working under the pf.

Ended up replacing diode 6 and Q9 and I'm back in business. Thanks!

What have you guys done for the backbox glare? It doesn't bother me, but my wife is really short (less than 5 foot tall) and complains about the glare. I bought her a DMD glare eliminator that I'm going to install this weekend to help with that issue. I've removed some of the GI bulbs in the backbox. Anyone have a EnerGI Maestro? Does dimming the bulbs using this help with the glare?

I just use a bent plastic, but I'm 6'3". I'm sure the DMD glare eliminator will go a long way, but she still may have some backbox glare.

Alternatively, you could get here a stool to stand on when playing

DMD Glare eliminator is a miracle worker on JP. If you have any LED's in the back box take them out. I have lighted the back of the playfield it helps brighten things up. I also have added a couple spotlights one on the left sling to light the middle of the playfield and one by the third flipper to light up that area. I find if you light things up well under the glass it helps cut down the outside lights reflected off it.

Remove some of the GI bulbs behind the white lettering, that helps. A dmd glare eliminator lens or plastic shield will help, too. Additionally, if you do the backboard lighting mod, that will help with the dmd glare.

edit: haha, yes pretty much what Darscot said ^^

Or get the invisibly glass. Ouch, it is expensive.

Thanks for the advise. Her major complaint is the glare from the backbox. I might try removing even more bulbs.Anyone have the EnerGI Maestro and could vouch for it's effectiveness for my problem?

I've been thinking about lighting the backboard. Not to help with the backbox glare. I just think it will look awesome. I like what Lonzo did on his restore with the backboard. Seemed really budget friendly.

Invisglass is not in the budget, but I really do need a new piece of glass. I just spent my pinball budget on an LED upgrade. Best money I've spent in awhile. Completely changed the look of the inserts. I didn't realize how filthy the underside of my inserts were until I was cleaning them while changing the bulbs

GI maestro won't solve that problem because it works for ALL the G.I. but is great for the blinding strobing effect.

I did the same thing as Darscot and put a spotlight on the left sling and up by the 3rd flipper as well to light the playfield up better.

Mind posting a pic when you get a chance so I can compare to my setup?

The VUK should have a flanged sleeve. I had issues with mine until i put the proper sleeve in, works every time now. Make sure that trough switch is being triggered by the weight of the ball.

Sometimes i shouldn't read this thread, LOL, just ordered a EnerGI Maestro...

Finally got done going through my JP and un-doing all the work from previous owners that shouldn't be allowed near games... things are properly soldered, shrinked tubed etc now... replaced fuse holders that were jumpered etc... replaced burnt connectors and replaced main power wiring that was twisted together and electrical taped... and many others... fun times

Also installed:
X-pin power supply, replace burnt/exploded GI connectors as well
Pinsound full speaker and board kit with headphone station
ColorDMD
OCD board for inserts (had from Williams game)
Full LED's on entire game
Titan rubber rings
Invisiglass (had a sheet)
Put a new red translucent insert in front of T-Rex and then lighted it with a red LED (linked to feed T-Rex)
White egg (ceramic ball)
Ninja pinballs
Replaced the legs with properly length black legs, black bolts and black levelers
Removed hardware wood screw that was in the left outlane post position... ridiculous... installed proper post and repaired the hole

I do have a brand new MPU-004 from Rottendog that I didn't end up needing, i'll posting that for sale soon if anyone needs one.

Think that's about it... been a long couple of weeks getting everything together...

That G.I. maestro is worth every penny.

First I've ever heard of it. Just checked out the website & watched all the videos. Very cool product for $123 shipped! All of his vids are on a LAH, so was wondering how many GI lines does JP have and what does each light?

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.

Sidenote:
I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:
nocreditdot
JP1993
Groucho

I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.

Honestly I'm not sure, I just used it to control all of the g.i. to fade down to dim and back to full instead of strobe on and off. Gets rid of the relay click as well. Makes a huge difference in modes like chaos MB.

You know i guess i just set it up and never tinkered with it after the fact, but from what I'm reading now maybe you CAN use it to dim the backbox by itself, I'll have to dink around with it some more when I get some time.

I’ll take someone’s slot if it comes to that.

I put two relays in the backbox. That turn the backbox GI off whenever the flippers are active. I’m sure Stern stole my idea when they added that adjustment to new pins.

Any pics/instructions of the install?

Had an issue come up today. The lower half of my gi is out including ny 2 coin door lights. I checked the connector on the PPB and the fuses. Everything was fine. Any gi connected to Yellow and white yellow writes are out. How do I go about fixing this. I've also checked all the lamp sockets on that gives line and the wires look good

Connector on the upper right power supply. Same colors as the PPb connector

That one checks out too

Special request - power supply box

20190331_153425 (resized).jpg

Ooooooo! Thats cool!

You gotta post the price too! Lol

Did you ever get anywhere on this? I'm going to look at one later today that is stuck left.

Nope. I'm at the point where I can't figure out how to remove the entire assembly which is required if you are going to detach the gearbox (there are 3 screws attaching the gearbox accessible from topside, but one of them is completely covered by a metal plate above it). Trying to get someone who has actually done it before to instruct me or at least have someone point me to where it is documented (I've not been able to find anything yet).

Had friends over last night and the bottom right flipper started flaking out on me. It stopped working intermittently then completely stopped altogether even though the upper right flipper worked fine. Didn't take time to lift the playfield then, but will look at it later today. I'm assuming possible loose wire somewhere in the line, but any other pointers are appreciated.

Also, I've seemed to have lost the spring on my lockbar handle (literally, it has disappeared and I can't find it - who knows where it shot off to). Can someone please post a pic of the spring and where it attaches so that I can install it correctly if I can find a replacement?

That looks great. What material are you using, and do you think it has enough ventilation? I've never bothered to touch the power supply installed in my cabinet to see what kind of heat it generates.

Had time this morning to poke around some more. I was converting my game over to LED last night. This was the last socket I did before I had this line of GI go out. It's the bulb between the shooter lane and the T-Rex head on the play field. After reading some last night, it seem that if there is a problem at the beginning of the gi they are daisy chained and none below the issue will light. Can anyone confirm if this is the first socket on the yellow wire GI? If this socket is the problem , can i unsolder the socket and leave the wire twisted together and should the rest of the strand work?

Capture (resized).PNG

After doing a little more reading have you tried reflowing solder on the relay board under the PF and fuse board above the shaker?

Intermittent flippers on DE games a lot of times is EOS related. Try squeezing the contacts together briefly and tapping the button and see if they come alive. Also solder / connections on the flipper board inside the cab.

Jurassic Park t- Rex.
I had mine apart about a year ago, so I am doing this by memory.
Around the dino, there is a blue plastic, got to take it off(3 screws, I think)
Underneath, unplug 4 connectors for dino assembly
Remove plastic subway ramp
I believe there are 4 screws holding the dino assembly to bottom of playfield, remove those and pull the whole thing out from the bottom.
It may seem overwhelming, but it's pretty simple

With all that in hand you can then remove both
motors and clean everything.

Hope this helps

I would imagine you'd remove the top, side components and then remove the assembly from underneath. The t-rex itself isn't too hard to disassemble. You bend it forward in t-rex test, turn off power, unscrew the collar plastic with 3 screws, unscrew the head/back piece with one screw, lift t-rex up and unscrew the chest piece with 2 screws. De-solder or unplug the solenoid on the back of the t-rex. The t-rex frame pivots forward on a rod held in with c-clip. The rod has a spring around it, too. Remove one c-clip and slide the rod out, taking care to catch the spring. Now all top-side parts are removed.

I'm not as familiar with bottom-side components, but can't imagine it's too bad once all top-side stuff is removed.

Edit: per post above, maybe you don't need to remove t-rex, just the collar piece.

This is standard PLA. Recommended only for high efficiency switching power supplies, without fan. I have no experience about performance - more holes can be added later.

Yes, the t- Rex itself does not need to be removed. Just the collar plastic with three screws. Whole assembly should pull out. only thing I don't remember is, if you have to let t- Rex bend a little and shut game to stop him from going all the way down.

So T-Rex operating theory question...

I was having some intermittent issues where T-rex would only go halfway. One thing I noticed in test mode is that in theory, once the motor hits the up or bottom switch, it would stop (in the game, not test mode) and then reverse direction. However if it rotated past the switch, then it would be able to go behind the opposite switch. In theory this would cause a situation where it would only register up (going behind the bottom switch) or bottom (going behind the up switch). It appears to stop and reverse if it hits resistance as well.

Anyways, that seemed odd to me, so I took the very ends of the switches and bent them about 45 degrees, this eliminates the possibly for the peg to rotate behind the switch. Instead it can rotate all day long and always hit the top/bottom switches without ever going behind. My T-Rex has been 100% since doing that.

Not sure what the switch leafs are supposed to look like, mine were just flat.

I want it for my 12v power supplies that I have for my mods. Would clean that up nicely. Fancy red box looks better than two black boxes. I wonder if I could mount them to expose the D-plug power on one side....hmmm

I agree, and it looks awesome. My questions were not intended to be critical, rather, I was just curious in case I wanted to make one for myself.

Thank you everyone for the T-Rex instruction. I hope to maybe try again in a few days.

Certainly take a ton of pics. If you're able to document the definitive steps, I'm sure the community would appreciate it.