"T Arch" bottom left 4 lamps where the "kick back goes"

I put a bit of extra slack.
I used some red wire that came with my solder kit to bridge it.

Since my back lighting now does not work is it possible this new wire threw it off ? I dont think so because he eats the ball powerfully now.
I must have broke something else ? Is there anything im that line of power that would mess the lighting up back there ?

Thanks for all the help guys. Big learning experience for me.

Yes these are not lighting now after fixing my trex wire.
Any ideas ? Its so dark back there now

Ps i wish i could buy everyone a beer in this JP club.
This really makes ownership of this game that much better !

????
The lamp circuitry is different than the solenoid circuity.
1) check #44 lamps bad/good?
2) check wires broken/not broken?
3) check lamp socket... clean/ not clean?
4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...
Note: you most remove the bottom arch assembly... to check lamp socket parts.

I must have shook something up overthere will start to take it apart now to check

I took apart the top this is what i found may i ask where to find these ?
The lights are brand new

4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...

20190323_135546-756x1008 (resized).jpg

20190323_135549-756x1008 (resized).jpg

20190323_135553-756x1008 (resized).jpg

Have you checked bottom of the playfield sockets and wires?

Yes i traced them out and cannot find any breaks

For the heck of it, jiggle the connector on the upper left corner of the PPb board in the backbox. Also check the connector on the upper right corner of the power supply. Both will have same color wires

I got it open jiggling anything with the same color wires

20190323_153028-1209x1612 (resized).jpg

Is the whole upper half of the playfield out?
The gi connectors are j5 on the PPb and cn8 on the power supply. Give fuses are f1- f 4 on the PPb and are 5 amp

Just the raptor pit and spotlights left and right i think

The bulbs that look to be out in your pictures are general illumination, not controlled lamps. So they should be on all the time. Am I correct in saying that?

It was the damn F1 fuse !! Good call !!! I swore i knocked something loose but i guess blew a fuse somehow ??

20190323_155453-756x1008 (resized).jpg

Thank you !!!

No problem, I was just going to tell you to check f-1 as I just verified on my game that it was the fuse for the back playfield. Good to go

Thank you so much i had to steal a fuse from my leathal weapon to check.

Any chance if you know if home depot sells these type of fuses i might by a few to keepn on hand.

Huge help i cant thank you enough i spent my entire morning going nuts on this

Not sure I had luck at HD. Better luck at Pep Boys or Auto Zone or Ace Hardware if you have once.

No problem at all. I have owned a bunch of data east, so I am pretty familiar with them. I agree with djreddog, Automotive store would be your best bet

Found a 5 pack of 5amp fuses for 1.98 in HD bought 3 packs and switched out the rest of the F spots with freshies

Nice, had no idea hd would carry them.

Fresh fuses are not necessary, but no harm.

Top flipper rebuild kit question. Mine feel very weak, so I'm guessing they need a rebuild. Do I just order this kit, but right side only? Should I replace the coil as well?

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-0493-0694-and-early-sega-1995-flipper-rebuild-kit.html

You might not need to rebuild, check your EOS. Might just need a cleaning and adjustment. If you do rebuild, the coil should be fine, just get get right side rebuild if your other flippers feel fine.

No EOS at upper flipper.
Makes sense to check the fuse holders too on flipper board, originals are not so stable after many fuse replacement.

Shoot your right forgot there is no EOS on the upper flipper.

Just posted in JP Mod thread (never sure where to put stuff - here or there). The arrow sign freely rotates depending upon how tightly you secure it. Anyhow, Since Tim is hanging it up I designed and created my own East Dock sign. I do apologize that I had already put the glass back on when I remembered to take photos. I would be willing to produce and sell these to others, please PM if you would like to discuss.

IMG_1955.JPGIMG_1956.JPG

Nicely done!

I think between you, me and a couple other members with 3D printers we'll be able to keep the JP toy store going for everyone.

What is the best/easiest way to replace the two bulbs under the plastic ramp just behind the gate? Should it be done from the bottom of the playfield by removing the sockets, or if from the top what all must be removed to get to them? I prefer natural white to warm white, and these are the only two warms remaining in GI (make things appear dingy to me).
IMG_1958.JPG

I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick

That was my gut instinct. However, guess I need to lift the playfield to see positioning of these to determine just how "easy and quick" that it really will be.

BTW, I figure most JP owners must be dinosaur fans in general. I happened upon this article today regarding the largest T-Rex ever discovered: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2019/03/worlds-biggest-t-rex-found-in-canada-scotty-dinosaur

Hi everyone. I’m beyond late to the club but can anyone point me to a thread for a new owner and “must do’s” for this title? Or a few tips? I read a bit about 6.0 and know the one I’m getting has been sitting stock for a while. Thanks

clean it + new rubbers + flame polish the big plastic ramp (not necessary but if done right can look great), enjoy it AS-IS.

JP is becoming the next T2 where everyone just throws crap onto the PF, blocks all ability to see the ball, and calls it awesome.

Color-DMD is great but can be pricey (worth it IMO). Also, Invisiglass/Stern HD/PDI glass is a nice luxury. These mods are great as they can be put onto a lot of machines so they hold their value. Unlike, 95% of "mods" installed that the next owner just rips off.

I still have the issue with my right flipper. I replaced the EOS. It works for few days and it has the same problem as before. While I raise the playfield and short the EOS, the flipper works. After I adjusted the EOS, it works for few days again. Is it possible the problem is on the flipper board? Thanks.

Try checking the flipper board header pins for cracks, sounds like an intermittent connection issue.

OK, so I purchased the “correct” sleeve, and it looks exactly like the ones thats already in there....

Im still having issues. The game still doesnt recognize that there is a ball in the trough vuk. It will leave a ball sitting there and think that a ball is missing and go into ball search during multiball.

The switch tests fine in diagnostics, AND I replaced the switch based on ChadH recomendation that ut could be bad if it tests good.

What the fuq is wrong with this stupid machine? Im super pissed right now.

98722421-B93A-4A8F-A299-C22617AC575F (resized).jpeg

Well, no it isn’t. Those two sockets are stapled to the underside and have metal leads connecting them, not to mention very difficult to get to. Going to have to do it from the topside.
5A34B87B-0A3F-46F0-9D4B-1F9699B3E2B6.jpeg

Update: I ended up removing the two screws securing the gate to the ramp and the two screws securing the plastic ramp to the playfield. From that I was able to lift the plastic ramp just enough to get my fingers to where I could remove and replace the two bulbs (was still a tight fit for me, but I persevered).

I just changed those light this past weekend, I had the large plastic over the captive ball removed anyway, then unscrewed the back screw of the metal guide rail on the right side of the raptor pit. from there a easy rotation and my wife's smaller fingers to change those lights

Too late for me as I just read your post. Looks like we’ve given those who come after us two ways to do it.

Just finished an afternoon of maintenance and some updates. Changed out some LED's and fixed some lights from add-ons that weren't working (I think they came loose during the move). Installed a red ball catch for the T-Rex to replace the yellow one since I'm lighting it with a red LED. The flipper buttons and flipper bats were nasty and could not be cleaned, so I installed new ones. Also needed some new leg bolts since the ones that came with it were too short to work with the PinSound audio control. Finally, the top of the backbox was missing the domes so I added those, while also painting the front of the metal reflector back and lining the back of it with aluminum tape for reflective purposes.

IMG_1967.JPGIMG_1968.JPGIMG_1970.JPGIMG_1969.JPGIMG_1971.JPG

Did you put a new diode on the switch? What way does the band face? Do all trough switches report in active switch test with a ball sitting on them?

Anyone know where to source main ramp, Marco seems to be permanently out of stock?

Marco is out of a lot of things.

I would imagine NOS ramps are permanently out of stock everywhere. I think I bought the last one BAA had a few years ago. At this point it's probably a waiting game for someone to reproduce them.

Thinking about adding the two Pteranodons to my game (missing them). I found the birds, but can anyone tell me what diameter of piano/music wire I should use to mount them?