(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 5,772 posts
  • 379 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Davi
  • Topic is favorited by 165 Pinsiders

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There are 5772 posts in this topic. You are on page 110 of 116.
#5451 30 days ago

"T Arch" bottom left 4 lamps where the "kick back goes"

#5452 30 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

This flaw is one of Data East faux pas...
Note: to fix with new wire structure... Dress wire into a loop-de-loop at the bend point.

I put a bit of extra slack.
I used some red wire that came with my solder kit to bridge it.

Since my back lighting now does not work is it possible this new wire threw it off ? I dont think so because he eats the ball powerfully now.
I must have broke something else ? Is there anything im that line of power that would mess the lighting up back there ?

Thanks for all the help guys. Big learning experience for me.

#5453 30 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

"T Arch" bottom left 4 lamps where the "kick back goes"

Yes these are not lighting now after fixing my trex wire.
Any ideas ? Its so dark back there now

#5454 30 days ago

Ps i wish i could buy everyone a beer in this JP club.
This really makes ownership of this game that much better !

#5455 30 days ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Yes these are not lighting now after fixing my trex wire.

????
The lamp circuitry is different than the solenoid circuity.
1) check #44 lamps bad/good?
2) check wires broken/not broken?
3) check lamp socket... clean/ not clean?
4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...
Note: you most remove the bottom arch assembly... to check lamp socket parts.

#5456 30 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

????
The lamp circuitry is different than the solenoid circuity.
1) check #44 lamps bad/good?
2) check wires broken/not broken?
3) check lamp socket... clean/ not clean?
4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...
Note: you most remove the bottom arch assembly... to check lamp socket parts.

I must have shook something up overthere will start to take it apart now to check

#5457 30 days ago

I took apart the top this is what i found may i ask where to find these ?
The lights are brand new

4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...

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#5458 30 days ago

Have you checked bottom of the playfield sockets and wires?

#5459 30 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Have you checked bottom of the playfield sockets and wires?

Yes i traced them out and cannot find any breaks

#5460 30 days ago

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#5461 30 days ago

For the heck of it, jiggle the connector on the upper left corner of the PPb board in the backbox. Also check the connector on the upper right corner of the power supply. Both will have same color wires

#5462 30 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

For the heck of it, jiggle the connector on the upper left corner of the PPb board in the backbox. Also check the connector on the upper right corner of the power supply. Both will have same color wires

I got it open jiggling anything with the same color wires

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#5463 30 days ago

Is the whole upper half of the playfield out?
The gi connectors are j5 on the PPb and cn8 on the power supply. Give fuses are f1- f 4 on the PPb and are 5 amp

#5464 30 days ago

Just the raptor pit and spotlights left and right i think

#5465 30 days ago

The bulbs that look to be out in your pictures are general illumination, not controlled lamps. So they should be on all the time. Am I correct in saying that?

#5466 30 days ago

It was the damn F1 fuse !! Good call !!! I swore i knocked something loose but i guess blew a fuse somehow ??

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#5467 30 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

Is the whole upper half of the playfield out?
The gi connectors are j5 on the PPb and cn8 on the power supply. Give fuses are f1- f 4 on the PPb and are 5 amp

Thank you !!!

#5468 30 days ago

No problem, I was just going to tell you to check f-1 as I just verified on my game that it was the fuse for the back playfield. Good to go

#5469 30 days ago

Thank you so much i had to steal a fuse from my leathal weapon to check.

Any chance if you know if home depot sells these type of fuses i might by a few to keepn on hand.

Huge help i cant thank you enough i spent my entire morning going nuts on this

#5470 30 days ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Thank you so much i had to steal a fuse from my leathal weapon to check.
Any chance if you know if home depot sells these type of fuses i might by a few to keepn on hand.
Huge help i cant thank you enough i spent my entire morning going nuts on this

Not sure I had luck at HD. Better luck at Pep Boys or Auto Zone or Ace Hardware if you have once.

#5471 30 days ago

No problem at all. I have owned a bunch of data east, so I am pretty familiar with them. I agree with djreddog, Automotive store would be your best bet

#5472 29 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Not sure I had luck at HD. Better luck at Pep Boys or Auto Zone or Ace Hardware if you have once.

Found a 5 pack of 5amp fuses for 1.98 in HD bought 3 packs and switched out the rest of the F spots with freshies

#5473 29 days ago

Nice, had no idea hd would carry them.

#5474 29 days ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Found a 5 pack of 5amp fuses for 1.98 in HD bought 3 packs and switched out the rest of the F spots with freshies

Fresh fuses are not necessary, but no harm.

#5475 29 days ago

Top flipper rebuild kit question. Mine feel very weak, so I'm guessing they need a rebuild. Do I just order this kit, but right side only? Should I replace the coil as well?

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-0493-0694-and-early-sega-1995-flipper-rebuild-kit.html

#5476 29 days ago

You might not need to rebuild, check your EOS. Might just need a cleaning and adjustment. If you do rebuild, the coil should be fine, just get get right side rebuild if your other flippers feel fine.

#5477 29 days ago
Quoted from Tablewicked:

You might not need to rebuild, check your EOS. Might just need a cleaning and adjustment. If you do rebuild, the coil should be fine, just get get right side rebuild if your other flippers feel fine.

No EOS at upper flipper.
Makes sense to check the fuse holders too on flipper board, originals are not so stable after many fuse replacement.

#5478 29 days ago

Shoot your right forgot there is no EOS on the upper flipper.

#5479 27 days ago

Just posted in JP Mod thread (never sure where to put stuff - here or there). The arrow sign freely rotates depending upon how tightly you secure it. Anyhow, Since Tim is hanging it up I designed and created my own East Dock sign. I do apologize that I had already put the glass back on when I remembered to take photos. I would be willing to produce and sell these to others, please PM if you would like to discuss.

IMG_1955.JPGIMG_1956.JPG

#5480 27 days ago

Nicely done!

I think between you, me and a couple other members with 3D printers we'll be able to keep the JP toy store going for everyone.

#5481 27 days ago

What is the best/easiest way to replace the two bulbs under the plastic ramp just behind the gate? Should it be done from the bottom of the playfield by removing the sockets, or if from the top what all must be removed to get to them? I prefer natural white to warm white, and these are the only two warms remaining in GI (make things appear dingy to me).
IMG_1958.JPG

#5482 27 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What is the best/easiest way to replace the two bulbs under the plastic ramp just behind the gate? Should it be done from the bottom of the playfield by removing the sockets, or if from the top what all must be removed to get to them? I prefer natural white to warm white, and these are the only two warms remaining in GI (make things appear dingy to me).
[quoted image]

I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick

#5483 27 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick

That was my gut instinct. However, guess I need to lift the playfield to see positioning of these to determine just how "easy and quick" that it really will be.

#5484 27 days ago

BTW, I figure most JP owners must be dinosaur fans in general. I happened upon this article today regarding the largest T-Rex ever discovered: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2019/03/worlds-biggest-t-rex-found-in-canada-scotty-dinosaur

#5485 27 days ago

Hi everyone. I’m beyond late to the club but can anyone point me to a thread for a new owner and “must do’s” for this title? Or a few tips? I read a bit about 6.0 and know the one I’m getting has been sitting stock for a while. Thanks

#5486 27 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi everyone. I’m beyond late to the club but can anyone point me to a thread for a new owner and “must do’s” for this title? Or a few tips? I read a bit about 6.0 and know the one I’m getting has been sitting stock for a while. Thanks

clean it + new rubbers + flame polish the big plastic ramp (not necessary but if done right can look great), enjoy it AS-IS.

JP is becoming the next T2 where everyone just throws crap onto the PF, blocks all ability to see the ball, and calls it awesome.

Color-DMD is great but can be pricey (worth it IMO). Also, Invisiglass/Stern HD/PDI glass is a nice luxury. These mods are great as they can be put onto a lot of machines so they hold their value. Unlike, 95% of "mods" installed that the next owner just rips off.

#5487 26 days ago

I still have the issue with my right flipper. I replaced the EOS. It works for few days and it has the same problem as before. While I raise the playfield and short the EOS, the flipper works. After I adjusted the EOS, it works for few days again. Is it possible the problem is on the flipper board? Thanks.

#5488 26 days ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Ps i wish i could buy everyone a beer in this JP club.
This really makes ownership of this game that much better !

I like IPAs and porters. PM for my address

#5489 26 days ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

I still have the issue with my right flipper. I replaced the EOS. It works for few days and it has the same problem as before. While I raise the playfield and short the EOS, the flipper works. After I adjusted the EOS, it works for few days again. Is it possible the problem is on the flipper board? Thanks.

Try checking the flipper board header pins for cracks, sounds like an intermittent connection issue.

#5490 26 days ago
Quoted from Asmig:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5034-00
Was this the coil you purchased? The sleeve that should be in that location is 545-5031-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066

OK, so I purchased the “correct” sleeve, and it looks exactly like the ones thats already in there....

Im still having issues. The game still doesnt recognize that there is a ball in the trough vuk. It will leave a ball sitting there and think that a ball is missing and go into ball search during multiball.

The switch tests fine in diagnostics, AND I replaced the switch based on chadh recomendation that ut could be bad if it tests good.

What the fuq is wrong with this stupid machine? Im super pissed right now.

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#5491 26 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick

Well, no it isn’t. Those two sockets are stapled to the underside and have metal leads connecting them, not to mention very difficult to get to. Going to have to do it from the topside.
5A34B87B-0A3F-46F0-9D4B-1F9699B3E2B6.jpeg

Update: I ended up removing the two screws securing the gate to the ramp and the two screws securing the plastic ramp to the playfield. From that I was able to lift the plastic ramp just enough to get my fingers to where I could remove and replace the two bulbs (was still a tight fit for me, but I persevered).

#5492 26 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, no it isn’t. Those two sockets are stapled to the underside and have metal leads connecting them, not to mention very difficult to get to. Going to have to do it from the topside.[quoted image]

I just changed those light this past weekend, I had the large plastic over the captive ball removed anyway, then unscrewed the back screw of the metal guide rail on the right side of the raptor pit. from there a easy rotation and my wife's smaller fingers to change those lights

#5493 26 days ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

I just changed those light this past weekend, I had the large plastic over the captive ball removed anyway, then unscrewed the back screw of the metal guide rail on the right side of the raptor pit. from there a easy rotation and my wife's smaller fingers to change those lights

Too late for me as I just read your post. Looks like we’ve given those who come after us two ways to do it.

#5494 26 days ago

Just finished an afternoon of maintenance and some updates. Changed out some LED's and fixed some lights from add-ons that weren't working (I think they came loose during the move). Installed a red ball catch for the T-Rex to replace the yellow one since I'm lighting it with a red LED. The flipper buttons and flipper bats were nasty and could not be cleaned, so I installed new ones. Also needed some new leg bolts since the ones that came with it were too short to work with the PinSound audio control. Finally, the top of the backbox was missing the domes so I added those, while also painting the front of the metal reflector back and lining the back of it with aluminum tape for reflective purposes.

IMG_1967.JPGIMG_1968.JPGIMG_1970.JPGIMG_1969.JPGIMG_1971.JPG

#5495 26 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

OK, so I purchased the “correct” sleeve, and it looks exactly like the ones thats already in there....
Im still having issues. The game still doesnt recognize that there is a ball in the trough vuk. It will leave a ball sitting there and think that a ball is missing and go into ball search during multiball.
The switch tests fine in diagnostics, AND I replaced the switch based on chadh recomendation that ut could be bad if it tests good.
What the fuq is wrong with this stupid machine? Im super pissed right now. [quoted image]

Did you put a new diode on the switch? What way does the band face? Do all trough switches report in active switch test with a ball sitting on them?

#5496 25 days ago

Anyone know where to source main ramp, Marco seems to be permanently out of stock?

#5497 25 days ago
Quoted from nasco62:

Marco seems to be permanently out of stock?

Marco is out of a lot of things.

#5498 25 days ago
Quoted from nasco62:

Anyone know where to source main ramp, Marco seems to be permanently out of stock?

I would imagine NOS ramps are permanently out of stock everywhere. I think I bought the last one BAA had a few years ago. At this point it's probably a waiting game for someone to reproduce them.

#5499 25 days ago

Thinking about adding the two Pteranodons to my game (missing them). I found the birds, but can anyone tell me what diameter of piano/music wire I should use to mount them?

#5500 25 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thinking about adding the two Pteranodons to my game (missing them). I found the birds, but can anyone tell me what diameter of piano/music wire I should use to mount them?

Use memory wire. It can be found at walmart, hobby lobby, michaels, etc.
I believe it just comes in a standard size.

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