(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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#5401 10 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Help with speakers please
Hi guys
The factory speakers do not have labels or marking?
I am trying to work out which wires connect to the +ve terminals and which wires connect to the -ve terminals on the speakers.
Backbox speaker 1
Black
Black (yellow stripes)
Backbox speaker 2
Red (black stripes)
Red (white stripes)
Cabinet speaker (woofer)
Yellow (white stripes)
Yellow (black stripes)
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

BB Right | Black/Yellow = +
BB Left | Red/Black = +
Cabinet | Yellow/Black = +

- Source 1: https://www.pinsound.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/data-east_speakers_install_full.pdf
- Source 2: https://flipperfidelity.com/media/wysiwyg/DEPS_Flipper_Fidelity_Data_East_PinSound_ALL_installation_instructions_11302015.pdf
- Manual (p24) states this: "1. Check each speaker for polarity markings. If the speakers have polarity markings, verify that the single-color wire (BLK, YEL or RED) is connected to the negative(-) terminal."
- Pic from p44 in the manual.
pasted_image (resized).png

#5402 10 months ago

Thank you, greatly appreciated

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

BB Right | Black/Yellow = +
BB Left | Red/Black = +
Cabinet | Yellow/Black = +
- Source 1: https://www.pinsound.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/data-east_speakers_install_full.pdf
- Source 2: https://flipperfidelity.com/media/wysiwyg/DEPS_Flipper_Fidelity_Data_East_PinSound_ALL_installation_instructions_11302015.pdf
- Manual (p24) states this: "1. Check each speaker for polarity markings. If the speakers have polarity markings, verify that the single-color wire (BLK, YEL or RED) is connected to the negative(-) terminal."
- Pic from p44 in the manual.
[quoted image]

#5403 10 months ago

Well, I have my first issue. In the middle of a game the T-Rex was failing to eat my ball. Long story short, in switch test the T-Rex saucer switch does not register (physically the switch moves up and down and even makes an audible click when I depress it). I swapped the switches between the T-Rex saucer and the saucer at top right and the problem stays with the T-Rex saucer location (i.e. the problem is not the physical switch). Whenever I did the swap, I also left the diode (or whatever that barrel is) on each switch so it made the move with the switch. In other words, I move the known working switch with diode from the top right saucer to the T-Rex saucer and the T-Rex saucer switch still does not register in switch test. I take the original non-working T-Rex switch with diode and move it to the back right saucer, and it registers perfectly in the switch test.

Any ideas regarding what my problem may be if it is not the physical switch/diode combination?

3043AFCA-F215-4D1B-886C-3411D55B205F.jpeg

#5404 10 months ago

If the switch is ok then you may have a wire disconnected somewhere else in the switch daisy chain. I would trace that color wire to other switches and make sure you don’t have a wire loose somewhere.

#5405 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I have my first issue. In the middle of a game the T-Rex was failing to eat my ball. Long story short, in switch test the T-Rex saucer switch does not register (physically the switch moves up and down and even makes an audible click when I depress it). I swapped the switches between the T-Rex saucer and the saucer at top right and the problem stays with the T-Rex saucer location (i.e. the problem is not the physical switch). Whenever I did the swap, I also left the diode (or whatever that barrel is) on each switch so it made the move with the switch. In other words, I move the known working switch with diode from the top right saucer to the T-Rex saucer and the T-Rex saucer switch still does not register in switch test. I take the original non-working T-Rex switch with diode and move it to the back right saucer, and it registers perfectly in the switch test.
Any ideas regarding what my problem may be if it is not the physical switch/diode combination?
[quoted image]

I agree with Pinball_Gizzard. Definitely a wiring problem

#5406 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

If the switch is ok then you may have a wire disconnected somewhere else in the switch daisy chain. I would trace that color wire to other switches and make sure you don’t have a wire loose somewhere.

You nailed it. According to switch matrix, T-Rex saucer is row 7 (white-violet) column 7 (green-violet). I tested all of the row switches first and everything worked. Then testing the column switches and nothing worked - aha, it's the green-violet wire. Checked some of the targets that share green-violet and they were not working either. Checked wire solder connection on each of the targets, and found one that had come loose (tricky because visually it looked like it was properly connected, but popped right off when I touched it). I resoldered the wire to the lead, and all is right with the world again.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! The guy I bought it from told me that because of the shaker on this pin he has to occasionally repair loose/broken connections. Guess I had my first, but now know in the future what to look out for.

#5407 10 months ago

Glad it was an easy fix! I had the same problem last week when one of my ball trough switches went out, broken wire elsewhere.

#5408 10 months ago

Sound and voice roms

Hi guys has anyone got any experience as to whether it is worthwhile upgrading my sound and voice roms to the latest version? My chips say v.429 and it appears as if the latest version is v1 is there any difference to the sound and voices?

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
#5409 10 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Sound and voice roms
Hi guys has anyone got any experience as to whether it is worthwhile upgrading my sound and voice roms to the latest version? My chips say v.429 and it appears as if the latest version is v1 is there any difference to the sound and voices?

Lol, that options font looks familiar

Generally sound roms aren't upgraded for most games and 1.0 is all you need, so I guess I listed it that way out of habit. I got excited thinking it was an undumped version for a second.

The actual latest versions are:
U7 v4.29
U17 v4.23
U21 v4.23

Hit refresh on that page...and you are now upgraded.

The important question is....what version is your CPU/Display?

#5410 10 months ago

Now I'm curious what changed. My board was handy since I went Pinsound, which is probably the version you want lol....Out of curiosity I just checked and I was running 4.23 for all 3 chips before I pulled the board so maybe I can add that one if anyone wants to downgrade lol.

#5411 10 months ago

Hi, my other sound roms are both v4.23 just like you have listed.

My cpu and display roms are both blank, but I managed to get the info from the diagnostics. My ColorDMD seems to be working ok.

Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Now I'm curious what changed. My board was handy since I went Pinsound, which is probably the version you want lol....Out of curiosity I just checked and I was running 4.23 for all 3 chips before I pulled the board so maybe I can add that one if anyone wants to downgrade lol.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
#5413 10 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Hi, my other sound roms are both v4.23 just like you have listed.
My cpu and display roms are both blank, but I managed to get the info from the diagnostics. My ColorDMD seems to be working ok.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ah ok so you are running the latest official DE code already. You just need to experience chadh 6.0
You only need the CPU and Display chip to upgrade.

#5414 10 months ago

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?

When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.

On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.

What do you guys have on yours?

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#5415 10 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?
When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.
On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.
What do you guys have on yours?
[quoted image][quoted image]

When I watched the NIB unboxing video recently, the posts were not installed. It's funny lately I've been checking that video a lot to compare my machine to a NIB to see what it's suppose to look like. My machine only had 2 other owners before me and had some wonky things done that I've had to reverse.

#5416 10 months ago

I had the same setup as you, one metal post on the right hand outlane and no post on the left but a hole predrilled for one. I also added a rubber ring on the right hand post since it seemed odd that you would have an exposed metal post for the ball to bump into.

I was thinking of installing a post in the left outlane since I'm not having much luck nudging this machine during play (maybe I don't know the correct technique?) and the ball seems to gravitate to that lane when it's bumping around.

#5417 10 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Good news, 1st batch is ready. 2nd (last) batch is in progress, will be ready in 2 weeks. Only 10 boards, 3 slots left.
I am going to contact all of you about payment and shipping information.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Any one on the fence about this, dont be. I would say this is worth the money. I think he is under charging even. Very cool tech that will future proof your game from switch issues.

Its durable too. I creamed mine once already and put a dent in a relay. Still works fine, lol. Oops. Word to the new owners, be careful moving the playfield. I was in a hurry. Doh.

https://imgur.com/a/qjUlD4P

#5418 10 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one on the fence about this, dont be. I would say this is worth the money. I think he is under charging even. Very cool tech that will future proof your game from switch issues.
Its durable too. I creamed mine once already and put a dent in a relay. Still works fine, lol. Oops. Word to the new owners, be careful moving the playfield. I was in a hurry. Doh.
https://imgur.com/a/qjUlD4P

I'm looking forward to getting one.

#5419 10 months ago

Who wants to sell for top dollar?

Archived after 8 days
159 views
Unknown reason:
Machine - Wanted
Wanted! “Looking for a HUO, or comparable condition, JP. Looking for the nicest of the nice. Any valuable mods (ColorDMD, Pinsound, etc) appreciated. Will pay top dollar!”
2019-03-17
Middleborough, MA
Wanted

#5420 10 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?
When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.
On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.
What do you guys have on yours?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I had the same setup on mine, no post on the left outlane but my machine had wire installed across that outlane to completely close it off, I guess to make the game easier. When I saw the predrilled hole I assumed (it sounds like incorrectly) that there used to be a post there but it had been removed or broken and someone had put the wire across there to protect the outlane plastic from drains without the post.

So I installed a post on that side and the game plays fine with the post there. I would think that left outlane would drain very easily with no post there but I don’t know for sure since I never played mine without a post. I did some research and I saw several playfield shots with the post there so I assumed it was was factory.

#5421 10 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm looking forward to getting one.

Nice!

Im getting asked in PM about the board install:

Any one who can solder can get this done. Its very easy to install. And uninstall for that matter. Switches just go back where they were.

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#5422 10 months ago

Sorry for ANOTHER post, but I want to help with any questions.

Be aware, this needs 12v power from some where. In my experience and opinion, getting it from the data east board set is a bad move. I always had issues when trying to do this.

That being said, ive been playing with rock914 ‘s power kit and its been enlightening. I can definitely run a lot more mods and leds add ons on my game now without taking any power from the boards.

Im working on my wiring and such still, so its a mess.

This power supply taps off the service outlet, so unless you have your games on a remote controlled outlet, the power supply will always be on if there is light in the room. This is because I have the light sensor board to control my mods. I put the sensor pointing right into an led in the slings. When the gi is on, the mods are on. I havent found an amazing way that i am happy with to remedy light spill from ambient room light yet, but my games are on a remote control outlet. It doesnt bother me.

I have been using a light sensor board for my raptor crate mod as well. The crate flashes when the danger insert does. When ever i alligator clipped this light to the lamp socket base i always had matrix issues and would get ghosting in other lights. I dont like alligator clips.

I also have my new trough board, gate mod, shooter lane strip, back panel illumination and some scoop lights off this power supply as well.

Ive remedied a few issues I had with power by using this power supply mod. I think hes calling it the “game on system”. Its been good to me so far. Its all laptop type plugs from the ps to your mods. You can also get bare wire ends to laptop plug adapters, 12v to 5v adapter boards, etc.

The system is bare bones, no frills, just the stuff you need. Im still figuring out what i want it to be and how to run it cleanly. More to come.

04AF166C-D556-45AA-B8C1-BE70CA936F85 (resized).jpeg

#5423 10 months ago

Did a little maintenance on my new JP and even did some upgrades. Replaced a few LED's with my preference (a few GI lights were green, but I replaced with white, couple of insert lights, and upgraded spots). I also added a light to the upper right scoop by tying into the GI bulb just to its upper-left. Biggest upgrade was a set of PinSound speakers. I must say that the frequency range is much better than original, bass is stronger out of new sub, and overall clearly better sound now. The PinSound speakers seemed like they were ten times heavier than the originals and much better quality, of course.

IMG_1948.JPGIMG_1947.JPGIMG_1949.JPG

#5424 10 months ago

Can somebody please tell me what this short black rubber bungie with the s-hooks is for exactly? Funny thing is that I didn't even notice the bright orange sticker until I posted this message, so know I'm thinking it is some sort of security mechanism for when you have the playfield fully lifted?

IMG_1946.JPG

#5425 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody please tell me what this short black rubber bungie with the s-hooks is for exactly? Funny thing is that I didn't even notice the bright orange sticker until I posted this message, so know I'm thinking it is some sort of security mechanism for when you have the playfield fully lifted?

Correct, if you lift the playfield all the way up there would be an eyelet bolt on the bottom of the playfield that you would hook the bungee onto to keep it upright.

#5426 10 months ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Correct, if you lift the playfield all the way up there would be an eyelet bolt on the bottom of the playfield that you would hook the bungee onto to keep it upright.

Thanks, I'll have to look for it next time. I've had the playfield up several times already, but just never paid attention.

#5427 10 months ago

Make sure you eat your Wheaties before attempting to attach the bungee. They can be pretty hard, especially when holding the playfield steady with one hand.

#5428 10 months ago

Newest issue...

I installed new code recently.(5.13)
However everything worked fine until today so possibly not related.

T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.

Any ideas why this would happen ? So frustrating..

#5429 10 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.

Maybe one of the wires for the jaw coil has broke where it bends. You can take the cover off his head/back to see the jaw coil on his back.

You can also manually tilt him forward in test mode and use the trigger to test the jaw while wiggling the wires.

#5430 10 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Newest issue...
I installed new code recently.(5.13)
However everything worked fine until today so possibly not related.
T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.
Any ideas why this would happen ? So frustrating..

Why didnt you upgrade to Chad code 6.0?Sooooo much better!

#5431 10 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Why didnt you upgrade to Chad code 6.0?Sooooo much better!

I dont know where to buy the chad rom. Point me in that direction and i will !

#5432 10 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Maybe one of the wires for the jaw coil has broke where it bends. You can take the cover off his head/back to see the jaw coil on his back.
You can also manually tilt him forward in test mode and use the trigger to test the jaw while wiggling the wires.

Ok i will try this and see if thats the problem.
Hope so, its strange that ge goes to grab it and then clenches as he is going back up so i know the actual motor should be fine.

#5433 10 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

I dont know where to buy the chad rom. Point me in that direction and i will !

Matts basement arcade sells the chadh 6.0 rom set.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/jurassic-park-pinball-cpu-display-upgrade/

#5434 10 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

I dont know where to buy the chad rom. Point me in that direction and i will !

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/jurassic-park-pinball-cpu-display-upgrade/

#5435 10 months ago

DAMN I literally bought the other one from this guy because i didnt see he had that... DOH

#5436 10 months ago

I just bought 6.0

I feel like a dope for missing that.... thats me multi tasking at work. Buying things and emailing and pinsiding at the same time..

Hopefully i can fix trex by checking the wires tonight to make the 6.0 code that much sweeter.

#5437 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody please tell me what this short black rubber bungie with the s-hooks is for exactly? Funny thing is that I didn't even notice the bright orange sticker until I posted this message, so know I'm thinking it is some sort of security mechanism for when you have the playfield fully lifted?
[quoted image]

Just be sure to get in the habit of making sure the bungie is laying flat on the bottom of the cabinet before lowering the playfield. I haven't done it myself, but could see how it would be really easy to casually disconnect the bungie and then lowering the playfield and not realize it's hooked several wires. So I made sure I took my time when I used the bungie.

#5438 10 months ago

Just finished installing my PinSound Headphone Station, and it is great! Cool thing about it is that it can be used to control speaker volume when headphones are not plugged in. Very good for me because I am needing to replace the volume potentiometer which is almost completely shot (you can either set it to full blast or full blast static sound). With the headphone station you disconnect the volume control from the pin to the PinSound, so now you can control volume w/o having to open the coin door (good for me, maybe not so good if you have small kids in the house).

Also, the standard 2.25" leg bolts that were on my pin were not long enough since I have leg protectors (the stock bolts would have worked without leg protectors installed). I had to swap with a couple of 2.5" bolts from my Getaway for the time being until I can buy some new ones for JP.

IMG_1952.JPG

#5439 10 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Maybe one of the wires for the jaw coil has broke where it bends. You can take the cover off his head/back to see the jaw coil on his back.
You can also manually tilt him forward in test mode and use the trigger to test the jaw while wiggling the wires.

I checked his back and even resoldered one spot that looked shotty.
Then i took out the C board i saw another guy do because my t rex never goes side to side.
Same thing as that guys post i resoldered a connector wire to the broken point. Anyway side to side doesnt work but it now trys to do it so that motor is broken.

Back to the subject though hes still wont grab the ball now is it possible the 5.13 code threw off his ball grabbing skills ??

As i said before he now trys to clench it only while going back up but not qhile touching the ball

#5440 10 months ago

Hey guys can i ask how you can get into the t rex diagnostica mode ?

#5441 10 months ago

Major problems tonight.Turned on my machine to play and the right lower flipper was fluttering. So I turned off the machine checked my EOS switch. Soldered a wire on the coil that looked suspect. Still had the problem. Took out my multimeter to check the diode. I checked the left flipper coil first to check if my multimeter was set right. While testing.... my wife turned the machine on. Thought I needed more light!!! The left flipper coil locked on and blew the F3 fuse in the flipper board. Replaced the fuse and tried to go into diagnostics. Pressed the step button and the left flipper coil locked again and blew F3 again. So what kind of damage did I do? Where do I start to go about fixing the locked on left flipper coil and my fluttering right flipper?

#5442 10 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Hey guys can i ask how you can get into the t rex diagnostica mode ?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/101#post-4826265

#5443 10 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Major problems tonight.Turned on my machine to play and the right lower flipper was fluttering. So I turned off the machine checked my EOS switch. Soldered a wire on the coil that looked suspect. Still had the problem. Took out my multimeter to check the diode. I checked the left flipper coil first to check if my multimeter was set right. While testing.... my wife turned the machine on. Thought I needed more light!!! The left flipper coil locked on and blew the F3 fuse in the flipper board. Replaced the fuse and tried to go into diagnostics. Pressed the step button and the left flipper coil locked again and blew F3 again. So what kind of damage did I do? Where do I start to go about fixing the locked on left flipper coil and my fluttering right flipper?

On the flipper board start with diode 6, Q10 (TIP36) and Q9 (TIP32) if any of those have failed.

#5444 10 months ago

Got my door decal today,
Thanks Tantrum!
My picture made with my tablet doesnt do it justice

Real nice and great quality!

20190323_131423 (resized).jpg

#5445 10 months ago

You are welcome. Also, he is right, the coloring is much deeper than in his photo. You need to see it in person to appreciate it, so I encourage everyone to buy their own from me (shameless plug).

#5446 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You are welcome. Also, he is right, the coloring is much deeper than in his photo. You need to see it in person to appreciate it, so I encourage everyone to buy their own from me (shameless plug).

Id like one. Need any papo dinos? I have a couple extra we could trade maybe.

#5447 10 months ago

Thank you, i woke up this morning with some coffee and took t rex apart. It was just 25 years of up and down on thw wire ! Opened up the casing saw the white wire was already seperated. I cut each side, put a new wire as a spacer in between soldered and juat tested. Hes eating balls like a porn star now !

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#5448 10 months ago

Lol now t rex works but for some reason now the lighting in tbe back of the playfield stopped working ( the bulbs on top of the playfield to the left of the raptor pit and both spotlights.
Did i knock something loose fixing t rexs wire ?..

#5449 10 months ago

Diagnostics

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#5450 10 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

It was just 25 years of up and down on thw wire ! Opened up the casing saw the white wire was already seperated. I cut each side, put a new wire as a spacer in between soldered and juat tested. Hes eating balls like a porn star now !

This flaw is one of Data East faux pas...
Note: to fix with new wire structure... Dress wire into a loop-de-loop at the bend point.

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