Sometimes bending the little piece of metal that extends into the subway helps it register. I found that the ball would like jump over the contact, so bending it upwards a bit helped force the ball to make contact with it.

What is it bouncing off of when it exits the loop?

I need to video it to determine and I've not had a chance to test by hand (just played 3-4 games since I've had it setup). It looks like it might be coming out of the loop at an odd angle and just hitting the side that leads up to the dock/free ball and bouncing off that. I'll collect some more data today and post.

Don't know if a T-Rex ate this guy's dog or what, but oh the vitriol for our beloved game: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-hate-club#post-4882949

Where in the metal subway is it ? It it a pain in the ass to access ? I wont be able to tinker with mine till late tonight.

Not really. Here's a pic of where it is.

Capture (resized).PNG

Thats awrsome thanks for showing me.
I absolutely was rubbing against that area when i was soldering and screwing back in the targets.

I must have kmocked it loose or something

Adjust your top right flipper all the way back against the metal rail, if the ball contacts the rubber at the tip of the bat it will deflect it to the center drain. You can also adjust the metal ball guide above the flipper out if its hitting the top of the flipper bat. Properly set up that loop should cleanly return to the right flipper.

Everyone may soon discover that I enjoy modding games, creating custom artwork for them, and selling my items at reasonable prices to others who like them. Up to this point, I've only owned a Getaway and I've pretty much created all the customizations I can for it. I'm pleased to see that JP already has all kinds of mods, but that won't prevent me from putting my own twist on things.

With that stated, I've created my first custom decal for the coin door (that blank black spot was calling out to me). Anyway, I've created two versions of the coin door sticker (I refer to them as "Hazard" and "Sunset") and will sell them for $6 each which includes postage to US (I will ship outside of US, but charge appropriate postage). I typically am able to create and ship within 2 days, but often times quicker than that. Please note that the images attached are watermarked, and of course the actual decal will not have the marking.

These decals are handmade using only the best quality materials. I start by printing the high resolution graphic on OEM ultra gloss photo paper on a 6 color photo printer using OEM inks. I then cover the graphic with 3mil high quality clear gloss vinyl for protection and finish. I then use a high tack adhesive sheet and apply to the underside of the decal. I cut out the decal using a straight edge and razor knife along with cutting the rounded corners using a tool that ensures a perfect rounded cut. Once the decal is fully cut out, I darken the exposed edges of the decal to prevent the white of the paper being visible around the perimeter.

If anyone is interested, please PM me with your design preference and we'll work out payment and delivery info from there. I know that I'm new to the group, but I have literally sold hundreds of decals and other customizations for the Getaway (see Getaway club thread for validation), and have even been commissioned to create custom artwork, toppers, etc. for a variety of other pins by people who appreciate the quality of my work.

BTW, before anyone comments on it, I realize that the T-Rex only had two claws on each of its hands even though my decal has 3 claw marks on each side (2 just didn't look right). Therefore, we'll just have to assume that even though the logo pictures a T-Rex that a Velociraptor made the scratches.

Hazard Coin Door Decal
JP_CoinDoorDecal_Hazard (resized).jpgIMG_1930.JPG

Sunset Coin Door Decal
JP_CoinDoorDecal_Sunset (resized).jpgIMG_1929.JPG

Company just left, so now I have some time to go take a look to see what is occurring. I'll report back as soon as I can. Thanks everyone for the help.

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****

Good news, 1st batch is ready. 2nd (last) batch is in progress, will be ready in 2 weeks. Only 10 boards, 3 slots left.
I am going to contact all of you about payment and shipping information.

Thanks!

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Looking forward to seeing what else you come up with.

In summary to previous posts, whenever I make the loop through the pops, the ball comes out, hits the side rail (at no point does it even come close to touching the upper flipper) then it bounces in such a way that it center drains almost every time.

Images of ball exiting loop
01.jpg02.jpg03.jpg04.jpg05.jpg06.jpg07.jpg

Images of where ball hits side rail
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg6 (resized).jpg

Image of ball guide at exit
IMG_1935.JPG

I'm not at home to check this, but to me in the last picture the metal guide is bent incorrectly. That looks to be altering the ball trajectory and causing sdtm drains. When the ball comes around it should be tight against that rail, and direct the ball so it can be hit with the upper flipper. Really the rail should be following the same as the playfield black line below it

Thought that might be the case after I looked at the photos. I can definitely work to bend it, but before I do can someone please post a close-up of how their rail is aligned at the same spot? Just want to make sure before I start bending things.

Nice nice. Pretty cool that a 25+ year old game is getting new technology.

So since it needs a 12v power source are there recommendations on where to draw from? I haven't done anything like that for any extra mods yet.

Your metal guide is bent.

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Ask and you shall receive

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Yup, bent.

guide (resized).JPG

Are those CPR plastics?

Excellent, thanks guys. Off to work on forming mine correctly and will report back.

Yes, they are.

How do you like them? They look dark in your picture. I've seen a lot of back and forth about the blue color.

I like them and yes, they are definitely dark. You have to replace the whole set otherwise it won't look right mixing in with original plastics, imo.

If you don't have a power supply, don't worry, not a big deal. 12V is available at PSU board, and also at Sound Board.

All you need is:
2x 6 pin Molex connector
1x 6 pin Z connector
22 AWG wire

Shopping list:
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-idc-6-position-connector-for-22-gauge-wire.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-pin-malemale-z-connector.html
20190315_203227 (resized).jpgBall trough power supply (resized).JPG

Many of you probably already have something similar, but I would also like to offer my Jurassic Park double-sided keychains for $12 each (includes shipping to US - will ship outside of US with extra postage). If you own alternate translate, I'm happy to customize keychain to match.

Please PM me if interested.

keychain_sqr.jpg

Question on my TRex. I had a switch wire break off so I had to lift the playfield, find the offending wire, strip a new section of wire and resolder it. I didn't do anything near the TRex mechs.

Started the game, no more switch error however the T Rex got stuck halfway up after eating the ball. He sat there at a 45 degree angle for a few seconds and then spit out the ball. He did not return to the up position after that.

Shut down the game, tested the T Rex switches and they seem to be working correctly, the top and bottom switches were firing at the top and bottom of the travel. Looked at the motor and it seems to be working smoothly. T Rex moved side to side and up and down without issue. Started the game again, diagnostics went ok, then same thing happened again when it tried to eat a ball.

Ideas? Relay problem?

As much as people Mod JP you may want to look at the Game On System. It was designed to provide 12v power to mods without taxing the boards. Some JP owners have already used it with success.

FYI, thanks to everyone for the loop help. Bent the end of the rail into the correct position, and now all is right with the world again. FYI, I think it is actually harder to manually roll the ball through that loop than actually hitting the shot with the right flipper.

Just finished cleaning up my coin mechs & installed some custom inserts.

IMG_1940.JPG

My T-Rex is giving me problems... worked perfectly. Took the plastic body off and since putting it back on the mouth doesn’t open up quite wide enough to eat the ball. I tested it with the body off and eats the ball no problem...? It’s like the body is not letting the bottom jaw open up fully. Can the body be installed wrong or is there a trick to getting it “seated “ correctly? I know the inside of the plastic has some ridges that look like guides. I’m stumped..

Finally got my 3D gate to where I like it. It hooks into the existing wiring, no gator clips or soldering. Made little clear prints flames too.

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Awesome work, great job!

I have a question, what events make the flashers go off (2 red domes left/right back of playfield, 2 clear domes left/right center of playfield, and 2 flashers on top of backbox?

I've not seen them go off yet during game play. I thought I might have a problem, but all flashers fire during service mode testing.

Chaos multiball. The red flasher in the back right goes off when extra ball mode is lit from the control room. The clear flashers go off during the skill shot at the beginning of each ball.

Those look great! Ugh ,reminds me I need to find some!

I will share all of my inserts (I have several of them). Will post sometime this weekend when I get a chance.

As far as the plastic pieces go, I washed them, polished with Novus 1 using my drill with foam pad, then cleaned up with some Invisiglass cleaner, reassembled, and much improved.

CHAOS MULTIBALL - haven't done that yet
SKILL SHOT - haven't noticed, I'll have to make it a point to watch

What about the two on top of the backbox?

Don't really notice. No topper . Wish I had one

Chaos is easy to get to. Just hit one jackpot and hit the smart missile before you exit multiball!

I know I'm going to sound like an idiot, but still trying to figure out ruleset. My only other pin is a Getaway, and while very enjoyable it has to have one of the simplest rulesets ever. Just progress through the gears in a linear fashion and follow the lights. On the side, light up all of the traffic lights and lock a ball each time.

http://pinball.org/rules/jurassicpark.html

Some things will be different if you get the ChadH code, which you should. The changes are noted on his page.

The old fashioned way to get CHAOS multiball is to start Triball multiball, hit a jackpot ramp and then shoot each target that has a letter of chaos flashing (Power Shed, Gate Ramp, Control Room, Visitor's Center and Bunker) while in multiball. That will start a 6 ball multiball, then to light super jackpots you have to hit all the CHAOS targets again during CHAOS multiball. That will light the gate and helicopter shots for super jackpot. I have yet to get a super jackpot (or finish spelling CHAOS during CHAOS multiball, I got down to just needing the C once...so close).

The easy way for CHAOS as said above is to hit a jackpot ramp during Triball and then hit the smart missile which will award all lit targets giving you CHAOS multiball.

Ordered the sunset door decal ! Like them both great work!

I get no flashers in the game, period. Reading through the manual last night in bed, I thought I saw a setting where flashers may be turned off. I need to find that section again and see if that is the case on my pin.

Found it! Adjustment 32 Flash Lamps was set to "OFF". I changed to "NORMAL", and wow, what a difference! I love the game even more now.

Attached are all of my custom coin inserts for Jurassic Park.

Download PDF, print and full size on 8.5" x 11" paper (do not scale and do not check "fit to page" in Acrobat), cutout, and install.

FYI, I learned that all you have to do to remove the coin insert pieces is to remove the two screws at top on the inside of the coin door for each of the left and the right inserts. I made the mistake on my first try of starting with the bottom two screws and dropping the whole mech off the door which was completely unnecessary.

JP_CoinInserts.pdf

Do you print these on regular paper stock or photo paper stock?

Gord

I print them on a matte presentation paper. Photo paper would be too thick. If you don't have specialty paper, just use a high quality bright white paper for best results. However, you could also print them on cheap everyday copy/print paper and results would be acceptable. You need something that allows the light to come through, but you don't want to see blotchy white spots or have poor black coverage.

Help with speakers please

Hi guys

The factory speakers do not have labels or marking?

I am trying to work out which wires connect to the +ve terminals and which wires connect to the -ve terminals on the speakers.

Backbox speaker 1
Black
Black (yellow stripes)

Backbox speaker 2
Red (black stripes)
Red (white stripes)

Cabinet speaker (woofer)
Yellow (white stripes)
Yellow (black stripes)

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