(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,149 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,653 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3100 (resized).JPG
IMG_3099 (resized).JPG
IMG_3096 (resized).JPG
IMG_3097 (resized).JPG
IMG_3095 (resized).JPG
IMG_3094 (resized).JPG
IMG_3093 (resized).JPG
IMG_3092 (resized).JPG
IMG_3470 (resized).jpeg
20191113_193626 (resized).jpg
jp-rubbers (resized).PNG
15731544016047818554563461197544 (resized).jpg
15731543029144165323966519385247 (resized).jpg
E309E618-4A50-4AA8-A796-FD7D507193B2 (resized).jpeg
3930A69B-6CA8-4AC1-AA6F-EE7EB5D3E906 (resized).jpeg
CC1D61D4-533D-4962-BD7B-0E172596ED56 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 106 of 143.
#5251 9 months ago

Nice, hope to see he'll have more of them ready soon!

#5252 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

DING DING! Its freaking dope too. He does really nice work. Very impressed.
Sadly, I cant get it in the game until either Monday or that following weekend because of an out of town wedding.
Heres some more packaging porn and such since you guessed so fast. Too smart...
Cant wait to try it out. Thanks again davi !!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You should definitely check all around the box. There could still be a pony.

#5253 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

DING DING! Its freaking dope too. He does really nice work. Very impressed.
Sadly, I cant get it in the game until either Monday or that following weekend because of an out of town wedding.
Heres some more packaging porn and such since you guessed so fast. Too smart...
Cant wait to try it out. Thanks again davi !!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Boo. Mines not on the way, unless hes REALLY good at stalking and has found my mailing address.

#5254 9 months ago

Don't worry guys, the 1st 10 is ready. I just want to be 100% sure that the board is working flawlessly in other pin.
As Chitownpinball was the 1st, I've sent him a unit for test.
Let's wait for his feedback first, followed by shipments.

#5255 9 months ago

Anybody put titan rubbers in a Jurassic Park? If so, what color would you recommend?

#5256 9 months ago

I have some Titan silicon rubbers on my JP.
Blue on the lower flipper bats, orange on the upper flipper. Translucent sling shot rubbers, blue post rubber by the Raptor pit, orange posts by the gate.

I have found that I tend get air-balls from the springiness of the post rubbers at the raptor pit, so I'm going to be changing those posts to Cliffys premium post sleeves to try and reduce that. I got the parts, just have to make time to install.

#5257 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Anybody put titan rubbers in a Jurassic Park? If so, what color would you recommend?

You need to check out the Titan database for Jurassic Park: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/2603

Just click on each user link and you can see what they went with. Not that you have to copy exactly, but it's a good reference point for what is needed.

#5258 9 months ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I have some Titan silicon rubbers on my JP.
Blue on the lower flipper bats, orange on the upper flipper. Translucent sling shot rubbers, blue post rubber by the Raptor pit, orange posts by the gate.
I have found that I tend get air-balls from the springiness of the post rubbers at the raptor pit, so I'm going to be changing thos posts to Cliffys premium post sleeves to try and reduce that. I got the parts, just have to make time to install.

I got the full set Titan silicon rubbers from their database (the latest one) and replace all the rubbers. I agree with you. I got a lot of air-balls from the same posts ...

#5259 9 months ago

I went back to red rubber on the flippers

#5260 9 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Don't worry guys, the 1st 10 is ready. I just want to be 100% sure that the board is working flawlessly in other pin.
As Chitownpinball was the 1st, I've sent him a unit for test.
Let's wait for his feedback first, followed by shipments.

What did you land on for pricing? I'm interested.

#5261 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You need to check out the Titan database for Jurassic Park: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/2603
Just click on each user link and you can see what they went with. Not that you have to copy exactly, but it's a good reference point for what is needed.

I used the latest version to order my set from Titan, I changed the colours to more greens instead of blues though. They shipped out a couple days ago. Between these and the comet LEDs I ordered, plus the DIY stadium lighting, back lighting and 3D printed stuff I'm working on, I think I'm set for projects on this machine haha.

#5262 9 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

What did you land on for pricing? I'm interested.

Price is $70 plus shipping. I have 4 slots left from batch 2 (most probably the last batch).

#5263 9 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Price is $70 plus shipping. I have 4 slots left from batch 2 (most probably the last batch).

What is the mod?

#5264 9 months ago

Thought I would post a little how to tutorial on custom painting your Tim’s gate mod in case anyone was interested. I am using Vallejo model color acrylics and Citadel washes (nuln oil and aggrax earthshade).

First pic is of the unpainted gate. It looks awesome out of the box but I thought I could improve on it a little with some paint.

Step 1 is shading with nuln oil (black wash). I concentrate this near the areas where the pillars meet to give it more a sense of depth and separation. The shade is feathered up the columns and placed heavier in areas that are out of the sun like under the arch.

Once that is done I do a heavy brown wash (aggrax earthshade) over the doors to darken the recesses. A lighter leather brown color is painted over the raised areas to make them pop out more.

Once that is dry I go back in and dry brush in a dark grey color to bring back the stone look of the columns. This is scrubbed in on the sides as well to simulate stone. I do three dry brushing layers, each with a lighter grey, finishing with a fairly light grey just at the very top surfaces where the light hits more. Special attention is paid to the torch sconces.

After this I go in with a dark brown color and just break up the color on the columns a little in some areas so it doesn’t look so uniform and more like stone that has been in a jungle for a while. After that I build up more brown at the bases of the columns followed by a forest green color. This is also highlighted with a lighter green to simulate moss growing on the stone at the bases and under some of the torch sconces.

Almost done! Last thing I do is scrub a very light amount of black around the torches and up the columns from them to show the soot on the column from the burning torches.

Done!

Hope this helps anyone else thinking of painting their gate! Pics below:

AF57C2D8-C997-4832-A338-B7E760432DC2 (resized).jpegAF34F7E7-87A6-49FD-B694-548D307C176B (resized).jpegF6EA9AE9-6524-4785-9318-54BF3CADF628 (resized).jpeg4032A363-2814-413F-9EEB-215B13A47CC9 (resized).jpegFBCEFC33-D51F-4924-B108-901A46AD9803 (resized).jpeg22E58CA1-3B55-4CA1-B7EA-49B8997B4AAF (resized).jpeg
#5266 9 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Price is $70 plus shipping. I have 4 slots left from batch 2 (most probably the last batch).

Just confirming that we are still in for 2

#5267 9 months ago

I'd love to buy one please.

Quoted from Davi:

Price is $70 plus shipping. I have 4 slots left from batch 2 (most probably the last batch).

#5268 9 months ago

Bringing another example back up to spec.. and some questions I hoped existing owners could help with

1) What is the setup where the knocker is located? I assume to the left of the speaker and mounted on cabinet bottom. Anyone willing to snap a photo?
2) Is the shaker motor usually pretty limp/lame in motor test? Mine just limps around in test
3) Do you have any noticeable audio volume difference between left and right speaker in test? Dunno if my speakers are done or if its maybe the volume pot, etc
4) For your trough switches, are the microswitches the type with just a blade on an arc, or the roller type? Manual shows rollers in the mechanical drawings, but mine are all blade types.. with some broken blades too
5) Anyone willing to look at how the switch wire for the trough is routed for the switch at the ball kicker in the trough? Mine is just routed to the left side of the coil bracket, but is already tight. I assume this can be a common failure point given the vibration... considering extended these wires to give some more play.
6) Source for the decals around the trex hole?
7) Trex side to side movement - how much range of motion is there usually? Mine is pretty lethargic side to side.. thinking I need to crack the gearbox and look for wear.

Anyone have a source for trough metal pieces? My deflector is broke, and the coil bracket is pretty worn.. but individual pieces don't seem to be available.

#5269 9 months ago

1) yes. Pic attached
2) same it just buzzes for a sec it doesn't actually shake
3) no
4)mine has rollers
6) www.pinball.center
7) just disable side to side. The motor is expensive and not worth

20190302_212032 (resized).jpg
#5270 9 months ago

5) Trough coil wiring ….

IMG_6968 (resized).jpg

IMG_6969 (resized).jpg

Here's another knocker pic. The knocker in JP sounds anemic! The backbox might sound better.

IMG_6967 (resized).jpg

#5271 9 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

5) Trough coil wiring ….
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Here's another knocker pic. The knocker in JP sounds anemic! The backbox might sound better.
[quoted image]

Thank you! Do other people have the support bracket back away from the pf edge like that?

#5272 9 months ago

Just brought home a JP this weekend. Had to replace the connectors on the power supply for the GI lighting, those were burnt to hell.

Couple of questions:
1) Can anyone provide a picture or confirm if there should be posts near the outlanes? Looks like there should be one on the right side for sure, i found 1 picture to validate that. On the left side i'm not sure. On my game someone just drove a screw right into the playfield there, so i've removed that, but want to know if i need to put in a new post there or not.

2) The connector on the PPB for the GI lighting (upper left of board). I replaced that one with a new one and redid the wiring, however the very first pin (far left) doesn't seem to be used. So just want to validate that. Based on the wires i had, and accounting for the key'd hole, i just don't have anything to connect to that far left pin. Everything appears to be working on the game, so not sure!

Thanks!!

#5273 9 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Just brought home a JP this weekend. Had to replace the connectors on the power supply for the GI lighting, those were burnt to hell.
Couple of questions:
1) Can anyone provide a picture or confirm if there should be posts near the outlanes? Looks like there should be one on the right side for sure, i found 1 picture to validate that. On the left side i'm not sure. On my game someone just drove a screw right into the playfield there, so i've removed that, but want to know if i need to put in a new post there or not.
2) The connector on the PPB for the GI lighting (upper left of board). I replaced that one with a new one and redid the wiring, however the very first pin (far left) doesn't seem to be used. So just want to validate that. Based on the wires i had, and accounting for the key'd hole, i just don't have anything to connect to that far left pin. Everything appears to be working on the game, so not sure!
Thanks!!

The post is up to you. They playfield is dimpled for it. Most I've played don't have a post installed.

My far left pin on J5 is used. Is any of your gi not working?

#5274 9 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

The post is up to you. They playfield is dimpled for it. Most I've played don't have a post installed.
My far left pin on J5 is used. Is any of your gi not working?

That’s kind of what I thought on the post.

All my GI is working. Can you post a picture of the connector? Curious on the wiring.

#5275 9 months ago

Found this with some digging. J5 wiring

Pin 9 wht/vio Playfield
pin 8 key
pin 7 wht/grn back box door
pin 6 wht/yel plfd & coin door
pin 5 wht/brn back box door

pin 4 wht/vio
pin 3 wht/grn
pin 2 wht/yel
pin 1 wht/brn all go to PS connector 8

pin 1 to 4 on PPB side is 6.3 vac IN
pin 5 to 9 on PPB side is Fused 6.3 vac out

#5276 9 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Do other people have the support bracket back away from the pf edge like that?

The photos here and online show the 2 service supports posts in the same position as mine on most JP, but some don't have them. They are handy to rest the PF before giving the big shove to get over the bumps that resist sliding it back.

#5277 9 months ago
1551641934786964493412 (resized).jpg
#5278 9 months ago

Has anyone got a link to a list of the bulb types and number of bulbs to do an LED conversion for JP?

#5279 9 months ago

Just had the code in my JP updated to 6.0 and now TREX is not going up/down to pick up ball. Anyone know why? It works fine in test mode which makes it odd.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
Pat

#5280 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Has anyone got a link to a list of the bulb types and number of bulbs to do an LED conversion for JP?

Check the key posts at the top of the page, there is a list saved there

Quoted from pduffy:

Just had the code in my JP updated to 6.0 and now TREX is not going up/down to pick up ball. Anyone know why? It works fine in test mode which makes it odd.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat

Is the T-Rex set to eat balls in the new code by default? I can't remember, but check the adjustments if it turned on

#5281 9 months ago

Is the T-Rex set to eat balls in the new code by default? I can't remember, but check the adjustments if it turned on

It is turned on in the adjustments menu

#5282 9 months ago

Just gonna be one of those weekends i guess.

The lamps out, i traced to the following... so probably a control issue there...
“C” arch 48
red-gry cn6-9
Yel-blu cn7-7

Left Turbo Bumper 62
Red-blu cn6-7
Yel-gry cn7-9

Then i shorted something and loss the whole column on the switch matrix...
Column 6
Cn8-7 grn-blu

#5283 9 months ago

One other question, i searched this thread and the internet a bit, but didn't have much luck. Probably not using the right terms.

Is it possible to replace the insert in front of t-rex? I noticed it's screwed in from the bottom instead of a pressed/glued insert. Is a replacement available?

Thanks!

#5284 9 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

One other question, i searched this thread and the internet a bit, but didn't have much luck. Probably not using the right terms.
Is it possible to replace the insert in front of t-rex? I noticed it's screwed in from the bottom instead of a pressed/glued insert. Is a replacement available?
Thanks!

Yes. Search Marco or Pinballlife for “eject hole” or “eject Shield”

#5285 9 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

One other question, i searched this thread and the internet a bit, but didn't have much luck. Probably not using the right terms.
Is it possible to replace the insert in front of t-rex? I noticed it's screwed in from the bottom instead of a pressed/glued insert. Is a replacement available?
Thanks!

And when you replace it. You will see that one of the screws is missing. Don’t put a screw in there or it will poke out the top of the playfield. It’s over the lower area around that insert.

#5286 9 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Just gonna be one of those weekends i guess.
The lamps out, i traced to the following... so probably a control issue there...
“C” arch 48
red-gry cn6-9
Yel-blu cn7-7
Left Turbo Bumper 62
Red-blu cn6-7
Yel-gry cn7-9
Then i shorted something and loss the whole column on the switch matrix...
Column 6
Cn8-7

Start here
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

It will walk you through manual testing your switch matrix for issues

#5287 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Has anyone got a link to a list of the bulb types and number of bulbs to do an LED conversion for JP?

I have a full list on my jurassic park mod thread (including types, numbers, colors, and options), and i believe i put it somewhere in this mod thread too.

#5288 9 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Yes. Search Marco or Pinballlife for “eject hole” or “eject Shield”

Sweet! Thanks so much!

Quoted from Lonzo:

And when you replace it. You will see that one of the screws is missing. Don’t put a screw in there or it will poke out the top of the playfield. It’s over the lower area around that insert.

Great tip!

Quoted from edward472:

Start here
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm
It will walk you through manual testing your switch matrix for issues

Will do, I ordered a RottonDog anyways, but i would like to fix the stock board when i have more time.

#5289 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Has anyone got a link to a list of the bulb types and number of bulbs to do an LED conversion for JP?

I did a full count back in post #3040

Full cabinet Light count quantities

here is the exact corrected light count quantity updated after help with pinside comments below
#44 bulbs = 93 exactly
#89 bulbs = 25
#555 bulbs = 32(this includes coin door lights, start button light, and smart missile light)
#906 bulbs = 6
#455 bulbs = 7

This is I believe an exact count of all lights in the cabinet, this includes the lights on the top of the cabinet where the topper sits.

#5290 9 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

5)
Here's another knocker pic. The knocker in JP sounds anemic! The backbox might sound better.
[quoted image]

Thanks for posting a knocker photo. My pin is also missing the whole knocker assembly.

Could someone please post a closeup picture of their knocker as I need to see which wire goes were in comparison to the diode. I assume it has a diode

Thanks

#5291 9 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Thanks for posting a knocker photo. My pin is also missing the whole knocker assembly.
Could someone please post a closeup picture of their knocker as I need to see which wire goes were in comparison to the diode. I assume it has a diode
Thanks

If you look at the photo I uploaded, that has the wires and diode. Two wires Purple/Grey and Brown. Diode band goes on the brown side

#5292 9 months ago

It seems that my upper flipper is a bit weak, I'm having trouble making the top loop shot. Is there anything I should check or clean? Or should I just order a rebuild kit for it?

On another note, I put Titan rubbers in last week and am really happy with the way the game plays now especially the control on the lower flippers. There are a couple rubbers that require a bit more of a tear down which I'm saving for when I go to install my LEDs which conveniently arrived today from comet.

#5293 9 months ago

Ive got stuff on order to clean up all my mod wiring, so excuse the mess in my cabinet. Will post more on that later.

Got the trough board all wired up. Working like a champ so far. I have an intermittent problem right now with the ball release mech that is unrelated. It feels gummed up towards the end of the shaft’s stroke when its fully into the coil. So its not pulling hard enough to release the balls on the first try. Hopefully its just dirty, maybe I need a new sleeve. Any one know what size that is? Dont have a manual...

Once I get that mech cleaned up and working properly I can do some proper tests. Ive played the game as is, but the intermittent ball issue is driving me nuts. Hopefully tonight I can get the mech done. Well see, got a house full of sickies today.

3E365041-28C2-4CE8-98B0-948AE72924AB (resized).jpeg
#5294 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Ive got stuff on order to clean up all my mod wiring, so excuse the mess in my cabinet. Will post more on that later.
Got the trough board all wired up. Working like a champ so far. I have an intermittent problem right now with the ball release mech that is unrelated. It feels gummed up towards the end of the shaft’s stroke when its fully into the coil. So its not pulling hard enough to release the balls on the first try. Hopefully its just dirty, maybe I need a new sleeve. Any one know what size that is? Dont have a manual...
Once I get that mech cleaned up and working properly I can do some proper tests. Ive played the game as is, but the intermittent ball issue is driving me nuts. Hopefully tonight I can get the mech done. Well see, got a house full of sickies today.
[quoted image]

Nice. How long did it take you to install from start to finish. Including the time you took just trying to figure out what the first step should be from looking it all over to make sure you understood it?

Also, if that purple wire on the far right just hanging out by itself?

#5295 9 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Nice. How long did it take you to install from start to finish. Including the time you took just trying to figure out what the first step should be from looking it all over to make sure you understood it?
Also, if that purple wire on the far right just hanging out by itself?

I had everything laid out nicely before hand which I do not usually. That made it a lot quicker to get it done. It took less than an hour from start to power up.

I ended up snipping a zip tie before the trough wiring and de-soldering the coil with the grey and purple wiring you mentioned. Maybe I snapped a pic before I re-soldered. That helped to slacken up the wires for soldering. I was then able to lay a board on top of the coin box and solder through the coin door. You use 2 of the screws from the switches you remove to mount the board. I had 2 good ones luckily. The rest were stripped pretty bad. I have a 12v power supply already in my cab for mods, so I wired it to that.

#5296 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Ive got stuff on order to clean up all my mod wiring, so excuse the mess in my cabinet. Will post more on that later.
Got the trough board all wired up. Working like a champ so far. I have an intermittent problem right now with the ball release mech that is unrelated. It feels gummed up towards the end of the shaft’s stroke when its fully into the coil. So its not pulling hard enough to release the balls on the first try. Hopefully its just dirty, maybe I need a new sleeve. Any one know what size that is? Dont have a manual...

545-5411-00 Coil sleeve - 1-3/4 x 1/2 inch

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066

#5297 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I had everything laid out nicely before hand which I do not usually. That made it a lot quicker to get it done. It took less than an hour from start to power up.
I ended up snipping a zip tie before the trough wiring and de-soldering the coil with the grey and purple wiring you mentioned. Maybe I snapped a pic before I re-soldered. That helped to slacken up the wires for soldering. I was then able to lay a board on top of the coin box and solder through the coin door. You use 2 of the screws from the switches you remove to mount the board. I had 2 good ones luckily. The rest were stripped pretty bad. I have a 12v power supply already in my cab for mods, so I wired it to that.

I think this is the easiest method, with full access to ball trough:
1. Desolder wires, remove microswitches
2. Install backboard and opto board (2 screws)
3. Solder wires to opto board (diodes are not required)
4. Add 12V DC power
5. Done

DE_service (resized).JPG
#5298 9 months ago

I spent couple weeks working on JP. Totally worth it. Kids and I all love it. Replace bad switches, resoldering bad wire connections, got full LED kit, new Titan rubber, new Topper, printed new instruction cards, Pinsound Plus with OST mix and speaker upgrades. It still has some problems such as bad EOS (will replace it or rebuild the flippers some day), some broken plastic (already ordered new set from CPR) and still thinking about repair the scoop damage with Quickwood then install Cliffy on it (maybe or maybe not). I think JP needs a PDI or invisiglass (You can see the difference between JP and WOZ).

Thanks to my friend fnosm went with me to check and haul the game back to my house. Also thanks to everyone in this thread helps me to figure out the issues.
IMG_5094 (resized).jpgIMG_5107 (resized).jpgIMG_5108 (resized).jpg

#5299 9 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think this is the easiest method, with full access to ball trough:
1. Desolder wires, remove microswitches
2. Install backboard and opto board (2 screws)
3. Solder wires to opto board (diodes are not required)
4. Add 12V DC power
5. Done[quoted image]

Thanks Davi, my method worked very well for my style and setup. No complaints. Was super easy. I like to solder when things arent already installed. I like to see the backs of the solder pads, etc.

Also, my game doesnt pull out like that because i dont have the rails installed to rest it like that. I do own them though, I bought them from Mantis i think. Just havent had the balls to want to screw into virgin wood to install them.

#5300 9 months ago

Finally replaced that bad bad bad EOS. I tried to adjust it couple days ago but only made it worse. Because I thought the metal connector parts were not working so I bent the metal plate part the let it closed.

Anyone, it just took me 10 mins to replace to a new EOS.

Everything works perfect! and got my first System Failure Wizard mode.

IMG_5125 (resized).jpgIMG_5130 (resized).jpg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 220.00
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Top-Notch Target Shields
There are 7149 posts in this topic. You are on page 106 of 143.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside