I keep telling people...jk glass is just a few minutes away from TPF and they sell high quality tempered pinball glass all day long for 29.99 a sheet and lower in bulk.

Well MY guy had a sale for $20 for a sheet last summer.

Thank you

Whether it’s $30 or $40 it’s irrelevant. Just trying to save him from paying ~$70-80 sheet when it gets shipped.

I called 1/2 dozen glass shops and couldn’t get pricing below about $35 sheet without buying in large bulk like >25

Marco’s show price is $40. If you getting glass for $20-25 sheet without buying in bulk that’s pretty great. Scratched glass is my biggest pet peeve on a pin.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1343&picno=68286&zoom=1 This one zoomed in might help.

Or, look at any stand up switch leaf blade switch in the game. White wire ( and a colored stripe ) and black end of diode goes to one spot. Green wire ( and a colored stripe ) goes to one lug. The silver band end of the diode goes to the other lug. This is for one leaf blade switch on each side. The other leaf blade switch is just jumpered over with the two white wires. Look at the leaf blade switch, the lugs that each go to one leaf, each get a wire. The lug by itself doesn't get a wire.

Or look at your Addams. Same wiring. Jumpers might be a different color. White wire black end of wire to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver banded end of diode to a lug. Jumper wires in the same spots on each switch too.

LTG : )

Also, if picking up glass at a show is not an option for various reasons, Pinball Life charges $100 for 2 sheets inc. shipping to your door.

Purchased mine from Betson Amusements in Dallas for $25, but not sure if there is one in your area or not.

https://www.betson.com/why-betson/locations

“My guy” makes it sound like you bought out of his trunk along with a used car stereo

Almost. I didn't make it, but there was a day last year where he was at our local Bar arcade selling sheets. Not sure where he had them at. Could have very well have been the back of his van.

First thing my wife noticed when i brought the machine home was the scratched glass LOL so now i cannot Un-look at it.

I am going to be rebuilding flippers among other things on this machine so i will just save the new glass for the end since i imagine i will be sliding this old junky one in and out quite a bit.

Getting it shipped to my door for $50 or less works for me.

Guys, my JP has a wired problem. Sometimes the right flipper does not work.

It stops working for several seconds (top right flipper is fine) and then it works again.

Any idea how to check on it?

Thank you.

Have you looked at the flipper switch inside the cabinet? Contacts could be dirty/missing/poorly adjusted. Try running a business card though the points on the switch to clean them if they don't appear to have any issues.

My guess is to check the clips for the fuses on the flipper board in the cabinet. If you push on the fuse and there is give, the clips need replaced. I had an intermittent left flipper. Fixing the fuse clips fixed the problem.

Lift up the playfield and look at the fancy contact switch immediately behind the flipper button. Make sure it is perfectly aligned with the button and run a Q-Tip between all the contacts. The mechanism for top and bottom flipper control is there. Top flipper is to the left and bottom flipper is to the right closest to the button. If this doesn't work, hit us back.

The right flipper is dead.

Here is the video.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d9ot2gobivmxkya/IMG_5029.MOV?dl=0

While I press right flipper button, I can feel right flipper tried to flip. But it seems the power is not enough push the flipper. If I use my hand to assist (push) right flipper slightly, it will flip. I used multimeter to measure left and right coil, both have the same voltage while I press each flipper button.

Should I get a new coil or a new rebuild kit? Thank you

I am doubting the coil is bad, check the resistance of it first with your multimeter. In your video it looks like the EOS switch may be open, check and adjust it so its closed and retest.

I had a similar issue with my upper right flipper. My symptom was the the flipper wouldn't flip unless I gave it an assist, but once I gave it an assist it was stuck in the up position. What I figured out was that the last time I had lifted the playfield and then put it back down I had bent the mechanism for the flipper somehow. After bending it back, it worked perfectly. Did your symptoms start immediately after lifting and lowering the playfield? If so, take a close look at the contacts here and see if they are bent out of shape. Do you feel a buzzing from the flippers even when not pressing the flippers? If it only is coming from one, try throwing some paper between the contacts to make it stop. If it stops, then the contacts are your issue and it's a quick bend fix.

Picture taken from an open coin door.

20190222_063455 (resized).jpg

I posted these in the 3D printing thread, but figured they belong here too.

I'm working on my own 3D printed gate replacement and scoop light up signs. Drawn up in Fusion 360 from scratch. The plan is to use 3mm and 5mm LEDs on the gate for "flames" and maybe reusing the existing lighting for the scoops signs. If I print the signs in Natural translucent PLA and paint the depressed areas in black I should get a nice effect (I hope).

JP 3D Printed Gate (resized).jpg

JP 3D Printed Signs (resized).png

Hmmm, I'm interested to see how transparent they come out. In all of my clear PLA printing, the thicker things printed in clear are the more milky they become. Still translucent, however. I've never tried clear PET, so don't know if that is any better or not at maintaining transparency.

Also, why is the face of the two posts so rough? Is that by design for texture or just the way it came out? What orientation did you print them in?

Guys. Fixed the right flipper. You guys are rock. It was the EOS problem. I tried to bend it a little bit and now works perfect.

Really odd.

When I transported my JP after I bought it, I noticed the right flipper switches mangled. I never lifted the pf at all, so I have ZERO clue how this could've happened.

It was printed face down with bed supports so it ended up with a rougher texture when I pulled it off. I’m printing it again right now with it facing up so I’ll post it in comparison if you’re interested.

Ahh, the remnants of a raft.

Also, I don't know about your printer, but with my Prusa MK3 I can change filament based upon the current print layer. This would be ideal for the Jurassic Park sign that spans the top of the two pillars. The arch could be the same color as the pillars while the sign could be red/orange and yellow with layer changes.

Yea that would be ideal, although I would have to buy those colours haha. I'm running an Ender3 with Octopi.

I haven't explored all its features as most of the items I've printed in the past have been more functional than decorative. Does it basically just pause during the print to let you load in the new colour?

Yes. In the Slic3r slicer (I assume in others also) there is a place to add custom code either before or after a layer. Basically, I tell it after which layer to pause and to inject the replace filament command. The printer will stop after the layer designated, lift, and move to the front of the build plate. The screen then prompts you to remove the filament. Once that is verified, the screen prompts to insert the new filament, feeds it, and then asks if color has changed successfully or not (if not it feeds more and prompts again). Once confirmed the print head moves and lowers back to the model and resumes print. You can add as many layer changes as you wish (the most I have done in any model is 5). Not as good as a multi-color printer, but then again if all you need are layers printed in different colors it is great with no waste.

Excellent, just double check that the red plastic cap is pushing the EOS open when the flipper is pressed and not catching on the leaf when released.

Does anybody know where the Shaker Motor Board is physically located within the machine? Board 520-5065-00. Still troubleshooting my left/right motor on my TREX. I believe the motor gets its power from this board. I when I hooked the left right motor up to the up down power source and did the TREX diagnostics, it moved, so I know the motor is good. I reflowed the solder in the board attached in the picture with no effects. I also tried replacing the wire between the wire and this board with no effect.

Other troubleshooting steps appreciated.

20190218_195534 (resized).jpg

Is it on the cabinet wall, to the left of the cash box ? I believe TFTC had it there.

LTG : )

If anyone wants to save $10 on a functional gate mod let me know. I have 2 of them without the spot light lamp (I ran out of inventory). It will have the connection and splitter so all you have to do is add your own spot. $229.99 shipping included for US. Almost out of everything else.

Here's what's left:
6 - functioning gate mods (2 without spots)
1 - static raptor
2 - moving raptors
2 - small raptor crates (no led)
1 - small raptor crate (with led)
8 - east dock signs
3 - t-rex lamps

Get em before they are gone for good...

This is sad.

Better grab a gate guys!
I just got mine love it!!!

I fixed my TREX!

If your TREX is broken, I recommend the following troubleshooting steps.

1. If your TREX does not move body at all, but snaps his teeth, try physically tuning the body of the TREX until centered. There is a small switch that will be hit when it is centered. The TREX will not move up and down unless the switch is depressed.

2. To determine if your motors work, try applying 9v battery power to them directly for about 2 seconds. If it moves, it works. If it doesn't move, it's the motor. You will also notice that both motors have removable plugs about 2 feet down their wires. You can try switching the wire plugs and restarting the sequence. If the motor moves on startup, you know the motor is fine. Once you have confirmed the motors work, continue.

3. If the TREX does not open his mouth or move side to side, but moves up and down, your problem is on Board A. Try physically examining the board and the connections between them.

4. If your TREX moves side to side and snaps his teeth but not up and down, the problem is board B.

5. If your motors work, the TREX moves up and down and snaps his teeth, but does not move side to side, your problem is board C... the shaker motor power board. This was my problem. You can see that when I removed the board from my machine there was a big blowout on the back of it. I hacked the board and it now works like a champ. You can also get a replacement from MARCOs for about 90$. In any case, everything works on my machine 99% now. The last thing is fine tuning the right flipper switch (I'll probably just replace it at this point in time) and putting in some new twinkle bulbs for the bottom row of the backbox.

Hope this helps somebody and I'd be happy to help if anyone runs into a similar issue.

20190222_175445 (resized).jpg

20190223_055039 (resized).jpg

20190223_060420 (resized).jpg

20190223_194451 (resized).jpg

Anyone have a match for the orange color on the game cabinet? I have a nick I want to touch up.

Does anyone know the rubber ring size for the one just above the right outlane? It looks like it might be 1", and all I have let is 1-1/4 must have installed the proper ring elsewhere on the pf.....

Rumors are circling that Stern will be making a Jurassic World pin this year. Start making space.

I think when a sequel title comes out, it stirs interest in the predecessor, so I guess JP prices will climb further.

In the 3.5 years of ownership, I finally got to the Wizard Mode for a second time. Got to it the first time within a couple months of getting the game. So it's been a few years since I've seen that mode. Pretty disappointed in my score too. Only 540 Million. Which is my current #3 top score. Even had like 3 Tri-balls. Racked up 108 million during the wizard mode.

Still makes me wonder how the heck I managed to pull off a 1.6 billion score like the first week of owning the game. I hadn't even learned the rules yet, so I was just flipping. And after that game, my jaw dropped and I just assumed the game was broken.

Well, they didn't contract me for a dino head, so be prepared for a Crap-a-saurus Rex LE!

An 80s Lost world, 90s Jurassic Park, and 00s Jurassic World sounds like a great mix of games to me.

Really hope NOT. Was hoping for JJP on this one. When was the last time Stern did anything outside the box? When was their last awesome new mech that interact with the ball?

LOL. Miss-quoted. I was about ready to bring up my dukes thinking you were calling out my gameplaying skills. "I only got Wizard Mode twice....." "Really hope NOT...."

As far as a Stern Jurassic World though, I agree, I feel JJP COULD make a better one. Would be seriously disappointed if it turned out like Star Wars.

Potc ship kinda rocked my boat

The ebay listing still shows 1 left, so I can only assume it's a marketing gimmick to get you to purchase it faster since I supposedly purchased "the last one". Got the button in the mail Saturday. For anyone interested, it looks really good. The ring around it is plastic though, but I really only needed the lens.

Whoops! LOL!!!

Any one wanna try and guess whats in here?

F42C5E9F-F574-4461-B921-51CB9BD31A13 (resized).jpeg

Decals from Deutschland sent through your fake PO box. That's on my list of things to do in the future.
[edit]
Wait, does that say Budapest? @davi sent you his trough switch.

A pony?

Damn, you're probably right. Unless it is a unicorn!

DING DING! Its freaking dope too. He does really nice work. Very impressed.

Sadly, I cant get it in the game until either Monday or that following weekend because of an out of town wedding.

Heres some more packaging porn and such since you guessed so fast. Too smart...

Cant wait to try it out. Thanks again Davi !!!

F8D055C9-654C-45E2-86D9-5BFC4D02E24B (resized).jpeg2CA3A38E-4D22-428B-8835-50BBA30BE64A (resized).jpegD7D231CE-742F-4E04-93E6-31A3D890B0EE (resized).jpeg