This ended up being a bad switch. Replaced and all is well.

Nice!

Well that JP I picked up has a problem with the T rex. It does the chomp but doesn’t move side to side or lower it’s head to eat the ball. I can hear the motors working and what sounds like gears grinding. Is there an easy way to access the gearboxes for this guy?

There is many things that could be the cause. Many threads as well, definitely try testing the switches first before assuming it's a gearbox

Here is one discussion
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-help

Looking for the clear plastic cover part (red circle). I can't find the part number in the manual.

e260cabe7b5f676b3ae92ec21f1394fdf4f9c673 (resized).jpg

I flipped the Playfield up and checked the connections. Everything looks okay on the outsid so I pushed the head of the T. rex down and now that mechanism works again. I guess it wasn’t engaging and I pushed it back into place. So now it will eat, but no side to side motion. I can live with that for now.

Mine had the lack of side to side issue. You can go into the tests menu and try and move the head using the flipper buttons. My problem ended up being a bad relay like mentioned in that thread I linked.

Also the gearbox may end up being bad but a new one is 199usd so worth looking at loose connections etc first Imo. Also keep in mind the motor pulses so not the smoothest running to start with.

Check the audits and adjustments settings for T-Rex, number 44 (T.Rex Move Left-Right). It is often turned off in games with older roms as the movement could cause issues with the motor. You will need to Expand Audits/Adjustments in that same menu, #12.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5055-02

Clear plastic cover. Not the flasher dome. He is looking for that big sneeze guard looking plastic that goes OVER the dome.

Ahh. I see now. Yeah no clue. What is that piece even for?

To stop the ball from getting trapped there.

I always take all the clear plastic to prevent the ball getting stuck off all my games at home. I understand why games have them on route but at home they are just ugly. I also replaced the clear domes over the flashers to blue on my JP, just to take a little off how flashy it is.

Where are you located?

I can't remember every having a ball get stuck so I don't see the point. Even if it did get stuck I have thumb lock on all my games so its like 5 seconds to get it unstuck. To me its just clutter that serves no purpose at home, I keep the plastic if I sell and the next owner wants them. What is the issue with removing them, have I angered the pinball purist?

Just think its dumb. Having to stop a game, remove the glass. What if its during league or you are having a badass game? You just ruined it because of a piece of clear plastic, lol. To each their own bro, just seems really silly.

Well considering its never actually happened and I'm not in a league or play in any way competitively. I don't take pinball that seriously, if you do I understand why you would want to keep them on. You were just real quick with the thumbs down and face palm emoji, it doesn't really fit with the whole "to each their own". I thought I broke some pinball commandment.

Judging by your picture i looks like your gate and switch with spotlight are on the ramp in the wrong order

I'm pretty sure this is a picture of some other game that shows the plastic missing on his game. As opposed to a picture of his game.
Good catch though.

Sorry I wrongly assumed the part being looked for was in a set from Pinbits.
So I have corrected this post to say:

Nothing to see, move along.

Although now that I think of it.
Here is a better picture of the part being sought.
Thanks to GRB1959 for their post and picture.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-jp-plastic-scans-to-have-plastic-protectors-created#post-2906278

76237c1728c6c9ecf37581d24e3ef2fd68270476 (resized).jpg

Bro, dont take it personally. Its just the internet. We dont agree, thats fine.

Any one replace their power switch with this type? I really want to change all my games over. This looks to be for Bally and WPC only though...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5642-13935-00

Another question, does 6.0 rom work with ColorDMD?

Yes, it was tested with color DMD.
I can help if you can't burn your own roms.

Here is a video I did running 6.0.

Thanks!

I ordered it from you on Sunday and just received it . I also got the NVRAM.

Everything works fine! Super easy to replace NVRAM, 6.0 CPU ROM and Display ROM.

Thanks for this, I have a long weekend coming up so I'm going to look into everything you mentioned (that can be checked without replacing anything, as I don't have the bits, but will inform if I need to acquire them).
Dino targets that are sometimes completing : Spitter (most common) and then the Herrerasaurus (?) //i know they auto collect on v5.13 between balls, but I don't think you're supposed to see it

Hopefully I have a good follow up post over the weekend!

I'm not sure if my switch is triggering properly for my control room shot.

How is the control room activation supposed to work? If the light on top of the hole is yellow does it mean it should activate if I sink a ball into it?

It seems kinda spotty right now. Is my best bet to just replace the 500-5700-00 switch? It appears to be discontinued, but can any micro switch work in its place?

Hitting the power shed scoop in the upper right lights the control room, or when the ball goes down an inlane the control room will blink for a moment.

When the yellow lamp is lit or blinking the control room scoop should start a mode.

That switch can fail and the wires can come loose frequently, and sometimes the ball bounces over it. I have my switch mounted at an angle and bent high enough that it always registers. You can use the switch test mode to try it manually with the ball to verify it works reliably.

Neil is spot on.

I was checking out the switch last night and the wiring and diode looked okay. I guess I should check them out with a multimeter too.

Should I put the table in the service position while testing this out? Or is pulling the glass and dropping a ball in the hole sufficient?

Test it with the PF down. The easy way would be to take the glass off and start a game and you can drop balls in and shoot balls in there and test when lit and confirm a mode always starts. That way the ball will keep kicking out and you can try over and over. Try the switch test as well. You should see the scoop switch blip and then the up kicker switch.

Got a weird switch issue and not sure where to start to fix it. When shooting the upper right scoop "S", it never registers. So, lifted the playfield and noticed there are 2 switches attached to the subway. The one on the right (when playfield is lifted up) should be the right scoop, and the one towards the bottom left should be for T-Rex. Both switches work fine in switch test, however the issue is they are reversed. See picture for details as to what 2 switches I'm referring to. Thoughts?

unde playfield (resized).jpg

I made a mistake. I LED'd my machine and it looks fabulous, but I got the wrong type of bulbs for the flashers. They work, but they are 8 SMD flashers and it's like looking at a camera flash every time they go off. They are seizure inducing. I replaced most of them with the original bulbs. What type of flashers do you recommend putting in this game?

Also, I'm thinking about putting in a Jeep Mod. Do you know if there is a version that will interact with the flashers?

Put in a raptor figure above the kickback and am waiting on my loop combo mod (comes with the machine).
Really loving the game so far.

Buy the cheapest flashers from comet pinball. It helps to have color ones as well (not as bright).

Jeep:
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/jurassic-park

From lots of experience, trial and error, Incandescents are really the only way to go for flashers. Unless you really like being blinded, this is the deal. I have LED flashers in my T2 because T2 doesnt flash nearly as much as JP. I also kind of dig the bright flashing on T2. Reminds me of the movie scenes.

I replaced most if not all my led flashers in my JP with incandescent after about a year of being blinded.

I did the same thing with putting LED flashers in and not liking the blinding brightness. I popped off half of the diodes on each flasher.

LOL! Thats awesome...

Incandescent flashers are seizure inducing on JP, LEDs are nuts. I put the blue domes over incandescent flashers and its way better. I don't mind colored LEDs flashers but the pure white ones are pretty brutal.

No kidding, that's what I did. I did not have any 4 smd flashers so I tried to create my own and it worked.

That's genius! I'm going to try this tonight. You could even peel the flashers off one side so the diodes all face away from the player... Genius!

Im going to try this with mine. I definitely like the last-ability of LED, but in those flashers man....AHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

Just take a very little flat screwdriver and pop them off. Much easier than stocking all sorts of flashers

If all works out hoping to join this club tomorrow !

Congrats!

Fair warning... Jurassic Park is a 325 pound machine... as opposed to the 250ish pound Bally/Williams/Stern Standard.

PPSSSHHH try moving a WOZ.

Jurassic Park is heavier.

I haven't found JP to be any more difficult than others I move into my basement. Head comes off, PF comes out and move everything up or down the stairs separately. It's a lot of work, but a game with the head on won't make it through the basement door, so all games get a teardown. I don't have high turnover in my collection, so convenience isn't really a factor in my method. So I take an hour to move a game up or down once or twice a year... no big deal.