Picked up a new JP which worked fine at sellers. Loaded up into my truck and got it home. It is now blowing ppb F5.

You can start a game after trex goes
Through start up diagnostics (is this normal to occur every startup?).

I ran diagnostics and all switches work but the following coils do not (maybe because F5 is blown)
—relay motor on/off #15
—relay motor up/down #14
—raptor pit coil 50v #9
—right VUK 50v #5L
—auto launch 50v #3L

I also notice that when I hit the flippers, either fires the raptor coil but NOT the flippers. This occurs during a game and also during attract mode. Not sure how that’s happening.

I need help!

I’m sorry, but which connector on the ppb is the output?

I pulled J7 and fuse didn’t blow.

Now what?

It’s strange because the only thing was the moving of the pin into my truck and the driving home. The head was lowered but the pin was never put upright.

bump. Anyone?

Not quite sure how and was thinking it's fine as it was working perfectly at sellers house. Isn't a lack of 5v mean bad capacitors? I don't know how they'd go bad by just moving the pin.

Can you refresh my memory and let me know how to test the 5v? What setting on MM and where to probe..

Thanks. I do know how to use a multimeter, I just haven't in awhile as I've been out of the hobby a bit.

I think testing the 5v goes like this: Game on, MM to DC volts (larger than 5), black lead on the ground test point on PS, and red lead on another actual test point. Does this sound correct?

I have visually inspected everything, and only found one of the trex switch wires had come loose. I resoldered it, which brought back his function, so I think that is just collateral to my issues with F5. Although that switch wire WAS close to the other lug on the same switch.

I am going to check 5v at lunch. My thoughts are there has got to be a short somewhere. All I did was lower the backbox and drive her home. The only coil that is hard to see is the raptor kick as it's under a bunch of plastics. Any way to get at it easily?

I'll post results of 5v in about an hour.

Just confirmed 5v is good on power board.

Thoughts going forward? And what are “relay motor up/down & on/off”?

That’s what I’m checking for now. But I can’t get to the raptor coil as it’s under a ton of plastic. Ugh

Is there a way to access the raptor coil without basically pulling the ramp?

All the switches work fine in diagostics, except pressing the flipper buttons activates the raptor. And of course, F5 is blowing as I mentioned, taking out the 50v coils I listed up top. Is there a way to unplug one connector at a time from the PPB board to see what connector line is cause the short?

Except the raptor pit, I've inspected pretty much all switches and diodes I believe on the underside of the pf. I'll do the top later tonight.. and try to get to the raptor pit area.

Anybody know what these are in coil test:

—relay motor on/off #15
—relay motor up/down #14

I'm assuming the t rex movements?

So that ppb fuse F5 only blows when ppb J8 is connected. If it’s not connected, it doesn’t blow.

Help!

Bump

I’ve inspected these except then raptor. You can’t get to it without removing trex.

Just was able to get to raptor coil and it’s fine.

Stumped here.

Something to note:

F5 blows unless J8 is disconnected.

With J8 disconnected and F5 with a good fuse, the flippers work without firing raptor pit coil.

With J8 connected and F5 blown, flippers don’t work but their switch triggers raptor pit coil.

Anyone? Is there a way to confirm issue is on playfield or on a board?

Any other ideas?

The game worked fine at sellers but I suppose something could now be wrong with them.

You’re talking about the tip36s on the PPB, correct? Not quite sure how to
Test them.

Possibly. But I’ve checked a ton

Guys: I just tested the tip36 transistors on the ppb. I did RED lead of MM to tab, and black to outer leg of transistor. Granted board is installed but Q4 and Q5 buzzed, whereas the other tip36s on the board did not.

Can I assume they're shorted?

Thanks.

Q4 and Q5 buzzed, so thinking that they're shorted. And this is assuming I tested correctly.

So when I did power up at my house for the first time after buying it, all kinds of things were funny.. DMD, shaker motor went off like crazy, etc. The only thing I found was a T Rex switch wire had come loose and was somewhat touching the same switches OTHER lug. I fixed that and a lot of things got better..

I'm wondering if just replacing those two transistors would fix things. I'd HATE to have to go through and remove all diodes from coils and test them. I'd rather just replace the Q4 and Q5 and hope things work.

THOUGHTS? Also a source for tip36c? Marco has them at appx $4 each! GPE is out.

I'd have to remove a diode leg to test I believe. Or can they be tested while still attached to the coil (I don't think they can).?

Does it sound like the way I tested the transistors seem right?

Yes. When F5 is blown, hitting either flipper button activates the raptor coil (and not the flippers themselves).

Can you give me a quick description of how to test voltage on the lugs? It's been awhile.. I don't even recall what setting the put MM on.

Also, does it sound like I tested those tip36 transisitors correctly? I listed a few posts back how I did it. I did order some new ones..

Also, with J8 removed from PPB, flippers work fine (with F5 intact).. with no shorting to the raptor coil.

I just wish I could figure out where to look.

No, the coil fires when flippers buttons are pressed.

SOMETHING I forgot to mention that may be important: Before F5 blows, I checked really fast to see which of the 50v coils activated, and it was the Auto-Launch. What does this tell me?

In switch test, all switches work fine EXCEPT when hitting the flipper buttons. The flipper button switches signal, but so does the raptor coil.

Sorry for the confusion.

I guess I don't know where to start. Should I just wait until the tip36 transistors for Q4 & Q5 come in and replace the shorted ones? I think the fact that these are shorted (as per my test, which I think I did correctly) would be the reasoning for the blowing of F5.

Pretty sure Q5 is autolaunch and Q4 is the raptor pit.

Why would both Q5 and Q4 be shorted if the issues is just with one of the coils?

Funny as this whole thing (the repair/anxiety/frustration part) was the reason I took a long break from the hobby. Now here I am again. haha..

I've seen a few thread with the same issues: flipper buttons activating the raptor coil.

this guy seems to have my same issues, and they were cause via shipping the pin: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/g9-5AnzFdQ4

He replaced the Q4 transistor which fixed things. But really, what caused it? He doesn't say.

So I tested the 50v coils in question with connector J8 plugged in and fuse F5 blown.

None of the coils are getting any stray power which is good I believe.

So as I wait for Marco to deliver my transistors for ppb board I was wondering:

Since there are only a couple coils not working and one, the auto launch energizes in start up before the fuse blows, could I unsolder or cut one of
The wires to it and see if I can start up the pin and NOT blow the F5? Will this tell me anything? I already know Q4 & Q5 need to be replaced.

Or will this test tell me nothing as the transistors are already blown?

If so, which lugs wire?

Bump

Slump

Anyone? I

Hello

Haha!!!

I’ll be installing the new ones tonight. Hopefully that solves the issue.

All fixed!

Q4 & Q5 we’re shorted. Replaced and it’s working again. Hopefully for good.

Thanks to all who helped.

Who knows. It
Could’ve been that loose switch wire.