My first thought is your 5v power is low, causing your MPU to boot slowly. On DE machines, I’ve seen this happen and it blows F5 because the MPU holds a signal for the driver circuit too long during boot. Using the test points on your power supply, test for the 5v supply (dc). If you’re a little low, that may be your problem.

If 5v is okay, disconnect the output of the ppb board and see if the fuse blows then. If it does, you have a problem on the ppb board.

F7 I believe. Check your manual, will be the connector for the 50v coils.

Did you check the 5V as MMGB suggested?

You'd need a multimeter to check the 5V, if you have one we can give you instructions on checking it. The power at your house could be lower than at the sellers or something else could have caused it to be lower (it's not missing or the game wouldn't boot at all), shit happens when you move games. Another option is to put a breaker in place of F5 (instructions for doing that are in a thread here somewhere) or just put a new fuse in and try to determine if you have a coil locking on when the game boots up, just be ready to turn it back off IMMEDIATELY. You may have to turn it on and off quickly a few times to figure out which one it is.

I'd also do a quick once-over on all the connectors in the backbox, maybe one was pulled loose or partially loose when the backbox was lowered.

Blackbeard - that sounds correct.

Have you checked all wires if there is no shorting because of wires touching also check the leafswitches were the wires are soldered if nothings shorting.
Download a manual at ipdb and look at the switch matrix

I know this doesn't solve your issue, but to bypass the T-Rex diagnostics hold the trigger at startup.

I am willing to bet $1,000,000 that I know the solution to your issue. You said that you played this machine just fine at the sellers house. Then I assumed you packed it up, tilted it, jostled it around, got it in your car, rode down a road with bumps, hills, and curves, then jostled it out of the car, into the house, moving it around, tilting it, etc.

You also said that when you hit the flipper button that a the raptor coil would fire. This would only happen if you have a diode that's disconnected, which would make sense considering that the machine was just moved from one place to another, bumping and shaking along the way.

Check for loose wires and diodes.... REALLY carefully. Jiggle them and look closely if they have a plastic protector sleeve. I'm willing to bet you have a loose wire AND/OR diode. This would also cause a fuse to blow if the loose wire is touching something else.

And also look on the upper side of pf
At the ramps by gate and top left on ramp

Remove the plastic above it
But have you looked up in the switch matrix what is al in line?

Look in the row or line (up down or left to right) what gives you problem, check those switches and wires first in that line

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I got to the raptor pit taking out the plastics above it. I don't believe I had to remove the ramp.

I have had problems that when I lowered the play field wires would get caught on the flipper button switch and short out. Need to stick your head in the coin door to check.

It looks like J8 on the PPB powers the following:

Auto Launch
Raptor Pit
Right VUK
Shaker Motor

I think you may have a wire on one of these mechs that is causing a short. You need to carefully review the wiring for these 4 mechs. Perhaps a wire from one of these mechs is arcing because it is too close to some adjacent metal.

Gord

Shot in the dark, but have you checked the associated transistor(s) to see if they are bad.

I'm still going with a loose/disconnected wire. LTG told me I had a loose wire and I checked them all.... found nothing. 3 days later I checked again and looked closer. I'll be damned, there it was under the VUK, a loose wire that was touching a screw. Not sure how I missed it before.

I think you got the same issue. And if it's not a loose wire, it's a bad connector.

The reason why I suggested the transistor is because when I sold my tftc, everything was working when it left my house, but when seller got it home, F7 started blowing. He told me his tech diagnosed it as a bad transistor.

1st thought is just replacing random things and hoping they solve the problem is generally a poor way to go about solving the problem.
2nd thought is that I too would tend to agree with ThePinballCo-op that its either a diode or a loose solder connection.
3rd thought.. Slow Down. Perfectly understandable to have a new game and wanna play it. Go over that switch matrix and look for the common denominator. Go back over those connections very slowly and methodically especially the ones associated with the raptor pit. Make sure you have your meter set to diode mode snd test those diodes.
It is very possible your loose t-rex wire shorted out those transistors if it was grounded when you powered up the machine. If you feel strongly that its a board issue send it to Chris Hibler. All headers would be reflowed and nvram installed if not already and will be better than new.
Just my 2 cents!

If F5 is blown, and it is the power fuse for the raptor coil (I don't have my JP anymore so I can't confirm this) but the raptor coil still fires when you hit the flipper button then something is obviously shorted somewhere as the Raptor coil should be unable to fire without power being supplied through F5. If F5 is truly the power fuse for that coil then I would test for voltage on the lugs of that coil while F5 is removed and if power is there (it must be if it fires) I would check to see if any other coil that is powered by F5 also has voltage (the actual voltage reading may be a clue) on it and figure out what it / they are shorted to.

Ask 5 people you will get 5 different responses as to the wrong vs right way to do something. Heres mine. Make sure your machine is powered OFF before testing. Place the black MM lead on the banded diode leg and red on other end and you should see .4 to .6 on your MM. I personally do not cut the leads I don't see a need to do that since you are testing resistance between 2 points on either side of the diode. Again 5 people will give 5 different techniques and their way is undoubtedly the only correct way so take this for whst its worth.

You can't test a coil diode while installed, the coil is nearly a short and is going to conduct current in either direction thereby making your test invalid. Switch diodes are another story.

Im referring to the raptor switch not the coil. Thought the OP stated the raptor switch was reporting error.

Put your DMM on DC Volts, it may be a symbol with a solid line over some dots and if not auto-ranging use a range above 50. Put the black wire on ground somewhere like the ground braid that runs around the cabinet and backbox then put the red on the coil lug (either one, it doesn't matter). You've got a pretty weird problem and trying to take shortcuts isn't going to help you. I'll go back and read your transistor tests but no blown transistors alone will create the situation you have going on, you're just going to have to work through it and don't be surprised if it is more than one thing.

I figured that's what you meant which is why I said that switches are a different story, he asked about testing on the coil though. OP says that he does not see the raptor switch activate in switch tests when the flipper button is closed which is what I too expect(ed) to be happening.

You most likely have a shorted drive transistor for that coil and that is what is blowing the fuse. You can remove a wire from one of the lugs of that coil, tape it off to ensure it does not short on anything, put a new fuse in and turn the game back on to see if anything else changes.