(Topic ID: 180422)

JunkYard Early Proto/Dev playfield swap and full Restoration Documentation

By Mbecker

7 years ago


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  • 239 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Coyote
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#121 7 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

How do you get this corrosion off??

Some of it may come off in the ultrasonic cleaner.

If there is some left, which is likely, you can try using vinegar and other substances, but tossing the target in the tumbler will get almost all of it off. But you'll have to peel the stickers off the targets and remove the sticky residue first.

#126 7 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Yeah -- that's post ultrasonic so tumbler ftw then I hope! Hadn't considered that to be honest, have only done metal parts in the tumblr but esp with the corn husk media I ordered should be good to go..
I spent hours today measuring and figuring out which bolts and screws were #6 or #8, then ordering them. I should have gone to Tacoma screw probably but not knowing this stuff well, it seemed easier to go thru pictures and descriptions at home and bulk pricing prob ended up close anyway. New micro switches ordered as well.
Rubber didn't fair well in ultrasonic lol -- just an experiment anyway but going to order a new refrigerator and toilet, discolored the refridge. Got a couple more orders and I can concentrate on cleaning and polishing .. can't wait to be done finding parts. So much $$$$ out the door lol

So how do you like that ultrasonic? Cleans stuff nice doesn't it? You *are* rinsing everything off with plain water after cleaning in the 20% simple green solution, right? The only problem with it is I think you could probably wake the dead when you are cleaning. Don't clean any pinball parts with zombies around. They will find you for sure!

Corn husk media is pretty soft.. You are going to want something a little coarser for stuff like that. I recommend crushed walnut shells. Add a few squirts of Brasso to your media, let it mix for a bit and then throw your parts in. BTW, you can throw leaf switches, etc, in the tumbler too. With the Brasso they come out NICE.

If you want your stuff to get *really* nice and shiny, order some crushed walnut with red rouge already added that I mentioned in your other thread. This stuff is the best for getting parts nice, shiny and smooth.

Yeah, you woulda been better off going to Tacoma screw with your samples and just saying "order me this stuff in qty 100 boxes" but that's ok.. whatever works for you. Oh.. And did you order a bunch of NEW t-nuts? You really don't want to re-use the old ones. They never bite as well as new. You'll have to take some samples as there are usually several different base sizes in the same thread size.

I am not surprised the rubber did not fare well in the ultrasonic. Generally anything soft and pliable will not come out well. I noticed you have a wiring harness hung on the shower curtain rod. Did you ultrasonic that? How did it come out? I haven't done wiring harnesses in the ultrasonic yet. The last restore I did I used the dishwasher.

As for ordering parts............. Well..... It *is* a restore, right? You'll find LOTS of stuff you'll want to replace stuff on. Just wait until you start getting your mechs apart and cleaned. There will be coil sleeves, bell armatures, springs, pivots, all kinds of stuff worn out. You'll see.

Are you going to re-grain your ball guides to make them look brand new? On my next restomod I have decided I am going to either polish them to a chrome finish or just get them chrome plated like the old school EM and SS games. OOOooooohhh! SHINY!

#133 7 years ago

Nos playfield had t-nuts? Did not remember that. If so and there is no clear in them then should be fine.

As for polishing ball guides yeah it's a lot of work. Sand sand sand forever with progressively finer grits until you can hit them with buffing wheel and rouge. Messy as hell too.

Chrome plating is great in that the chrome is harder than the stainless so takes a lot longer to get ball trails. Disadvantage is cost and if it flakes on you in the game well that's bad news.

Why ship and send out lockdown bars and side rails? With all the industrial stuff going on in Seattle there has to be a company down there that does chrome plating.

#136 7 years ago

Is your simple green solution completely black yet?

#138 7 years ago

You have to set the timer for a little longer, but it will still clean really well until it has the color of old motor oil.

Of course the dirtier the parts, the faster the solution gets black. But you are wasting money changing it so soon. I use the same batch to do at least one game, if not more.

#140 7 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Huh interesting.. I'll try that out although honestly what's 4 gal of simple green -- 10 bucks.. more concerned about not hauling the full container of water solution back and forth from garage to house damn heavy!!

It's your call...

There is a drain on the machine for a reason.. Put a nipple and hose on it, drain into 5 gal bucket.. put lid on bucket.. Problem solved.

#142 7 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Hmmm yeah that's a good call for draining - actually as well for filling

Yup... plus then you can reuse later. I am a cheap bastard so I save mine and use as long as possible. When it's no good for pin parts then I use it in the ultrasonic in my shop I use for car parts. You wanna see some NASTY simple green formula?

#144 7 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Haha yeah I bet that gets nasty quick. So do you let yours heat up from ambient to sixty when you start a batch or just start cleaning without it heated up? Seems like it would take hours to heat up

If I am in the middle of a shop out or restore I don't turn off the heat. I just leave it on until every piece I need to clean in it is done.

In my shop I don't use it that often, so if I know a job is coming up that I want to use it on I will turn it on the day before.

#148 7 years ago

Even though JY isn't one of my favorites, I am looking forward to playing this game once you are done with it. Especially since I know the history.

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