I believe the original aprons weren't decals - they were screen printed. You'll have to strip and powdercoat the apron, then put the new decals on.

Those larger AWG wires are flipper wires there.

The magnet was planned to 'throw' the crane, to make it more difficult in hitting Jackpots, etc. It was later determined that the crane, just resting there, was difficult enough.

For the red board, entirely up to you. It's possible that if boards are different configurations, you won't be able to, but if they match, then sure. I would NOT throw out the boards you remove, though, as some lights may have moved switch matrix positions, and using the original boards may cause the lamps to revert back to older positions. (Exactly the case with the difference in wiring with the VUK kicker plug.) I would be sure to use the production wire harness, and before using the red boards, check them.

Honestly, that was the hardest part for me on my TZ, too. To fill in the gaps, I installed VP on my laptop so I could play *a* TZ when mine was down.

Wow. Nice purchase! I did everything in my small Harbor Freight cleaner. That thing paid itself off five times over.

Mine is like, the 5l size, or smaller. I did the wiring harness, but it's so small that only sections at a time.

Interesting pic there. I hope you took more of the game that you just didn't post here of the proto field before you stripped it.

That crane isn't production. (In that last pic there..) Very interesting. Maybe it's just missing the decals, not sure..

RFI - keep the signal from the DMD to the driver clean, reduce noise.

See, *Thats* the kind of crap I like, and why I'm interested in that playfield. What did that second insert say? ("TOAST GUN"?) Amazong how worn those are.

Yeah, original design had one back there - but since the only way there was a weak shot to the ramp, they were deemed unnecessary. The pop bumper (going from memory here, so take this with a grain of salt) was circled by rubbers with point switches in them.

It's not supposed to.. When the diverter is "down", the ball should be routed to the doghouse..

I believe those holes, on the last picture was how the ball could also get into/out of the single pop-bumper area. Remove the metal wall there, and put in a metal wall along the two holes on the edge of that artwork, and you have a nice path to shoot at - the DOG lane, diverter not acrivate, and ball heads straight up into pop bumper territory.

Re: Green, Blue trough board. Was like this on all (most?) WPC-95 games. How to tell transmitter from receiver.

Interesting, one was a slingshot. I wasn't aware of that - I knew there was switches, but not a slingshot. Neat.

Interesting, I never noticed the missing lamp insert over (above) the crane. I also like how a couple of the 'junk' inserts are smaller in diameter than the artwork. Neat.

When shipped from WMS, yes, NOS playfields had T-Nuts installed where necessary. Now, from repro manufacturers, they're not. (As far as I'm aware.)

Looking good!

Awesome..!

Nice shiny black cabinet there. Looks good!