(Topic ID: 180422)
Linked Games
Junk Yard
Williams, 1996
Topic Gallery
Seattle, WA
Re: Green, Blue trough board. Was like this on all (most?) WPC-95 games. How to tell transmitter from receiver. 
Interesting, one was a slingshot. I wasn't aware of that - I knew there was switches, but not a slingshot. Neat.
Ok-- I've got all the playfields stripped. Going to start cleaning and cataloging what hardware I need plus extra parts and get a couple final orders in. Habitrail hopefully going out Tuesday for plating with lockdown. Rails and shooter in order as well. Can't decide on chrome legs yet.. spendy.
Now the comparisons.
Here's what I noticed:
Brown changed to orange around crane area.
Background Green changed to red on both sides where the rat is
Words added on inserts to clarify-- ball recycle, adventures, junk for extra ball, hurry up targets.
Crane became "wrecking ball" on insert.
Arrow added above this insert
Super jackpot separated to two inserts.
Spike insert became "alley"
Great toilet adv. became the great toilet... interesting choice there, prefer latter.
Ball recycle when lit added to blue triangles on outlanes
Pipes extended above apron to display the team member names.
I think that's it?? It appears the pop had a red explosion around it, I'm still thinking I might remove the sticker there to see..
And look what I found rummaging thru parts 
Radius118 gave me -- nos fork that isn't damaged. Going to try padding under where that bracket breaks hitting the bottom if the pf and see if that helps.
Interesting, I never noticed the missing lamp insert over (above) the crane. I also like how a couple of the 'junk' inserts are smaller in diameter than the artwork. Neat.
Didn't get get too far today- spent way too long putting together a pinball life order and figuring out hardware to order.
Got these cleaned today:
IMG_2396 (resized).JPG
Plus this.. this is the proto so I clipped all the zip ties to clean better, I plan to reuse a lot of it in a home build for my next project.
IMG_2397 (resized).JPG
Quoted from Mbecker:How do you get this corrosion off??
Some of it may come off in the ultrasonic cleaner.
If there is some left, which is likely, you can try using vinegar and other substances, but tossing the target in the tumbler will get almost all of it off. But you'll have to peel the stickers off the targets and remove the sticky residue first.
Quoted from Radius118:Some of it may come off in the ultrasonic cleaner.
If there is some left, which is likely, you can try using vinegar and other substances, but tossing the target in the tumbler will get almost all of it off. But you'll have to peel the stickers off the targets and remove the sticky residue first.
Yeah -- that's post ultrasonic so tumbler ftw then I hope! Hadn't considered that to be honest, have only done metal parts in the tumblr but esp with the corn husk media I ordered should be good to go..
I spent hours today measuring and figuring out which bolts and screws were #6 or #8, then ordering them. I should have gone to Tacoma screw probably but not knowing this stuff well, it seemed easier to go thru pictures and descriptions at home and bulk pricing prob ended up close anyway. New micro switches ordered as well.
Rubber didn't fair well in ultrasonic lol -- just an experiment anyway but going to order a new refrigerator and toilet, discolored the refridge. Got a couple more orders and I can concentrate on cleaning and polishing .. can't wait to be done finding parts. So much $$$$ out the door lol
Quoted from Buju:So many posts! I love this. We love the junk yard around these parts.
Awesome! It quickly became my nephews favorite until it became my next project haha. Hopefully it still runs when back together and colordmd has released a rom for it to boot wacky fun game.. I just noticed today the 2 page backstory in the beginning of the manual lol
Quoted from Mbecker:What the hell are these magnets for? Is this an anti-electrical interference thing?
And anyone know how to fix the gold lettering without buying a whole new panel?
008 GOLD BARE-METAL FOIL & a sharp exacto knife with a lot of patience lol, here's a link...
Quoted from Mbecker:Yeah -- that's post ultrasonic so tumbler ftw then I hope! Hadn't considered that to be honest, have only done metal parts in the tumblr but esp with the corn husk media I ordered should be good to go..
I spent hours today measuring and figuring out which bolts and screws were #6 or #8, then ordering them. I should have gone to Tacoma screw probably but not knowing this stuff well, it seemed easier to go thru pictures and descriptions at home and bulk pricing prob ended up close anyway. New micro switches ordered as well.
Rubber didn't fair well in ultrasonic lol -- just an experiment anyway but going to order a new refrigerator and toilet, discolored the refridge. Got a couple more orders and I can concentrate on cleaning and polishing .. can't wait to be done finding parts. So much $$$$ out the door lol
So how do you like that ultrasonic? Cleans stuff nice doesn't it? You *are* rinsing everything off with plain water after cleaning in the 20% simple green solution, right? The only problem with it is I think you could probably wake the dead when you are cleaning. Don't clean any pinball parts with zombies around. They will find you for sure!
Corn husk media is pretty soft.. You are going to want something a little coarser for stuff like that. I recommend crushed walnut shells. Add a few squirts of Brasso to your media, let it mix for a bit and then throw your parts in. BTW, you can throw leaf switches, etc, in the tumbler too. With the Brasso they come out NICE.
If you want your stuff to get *really* nice and shiny, order some crushed walnut with red rouge already added that I mentioned in your other thread. This stuff is the best for getting parts nice, shiny and smooth.
Yeah, you woulda been better off going to Tacoma screw with your samples and just saying "order me this stuff in qty 100 boxes" but that's ok.. whatever works for you. Oh.. And did you order a bunch of NEW t-nuts? You really don't want to re-use the old ones. They never bite as well as new. You'll have to take some samples as there are usually several different base sizes in the same thread size.
I am not surprised the rubber did not fare well in the ultrasonic. Generally anything soft and pliable will not come out well. I noticed you have a wiring harness hung on the shower curtain rod. Did you ultrasonic that? How did it come out? I haven't done wiring harnesses in the ultrasonic yet. The last restore I did I used the dishwasher.
As for ordering parts............. Well..... It *is* a restore, right? You'll find LOTS of stuff you'll want to replace stuff on. Just wait until you start getting your mechs apart and cleaned. There will be coil sleeves, bell armatures, springs, pivots, all kinds of stuff worn out. You'll see. 
Are you going to re-grain your ball guides to make them look brand new? On my next restomod I have decided I am going to either polish them to a chrome finish or just get them chrome plated like the old school EM and SS games. OOOooooohhh! SHINY!
Quoted from gmkalos:008 GOLD BARE-METAL FOIL & a sharp exacto knife with a lot of patience lol, here's a link...
http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html
Or I was just thinking you could jazz it up and actually just gold leaf the lettering the traditional way using glue, brush & real gold leaf! I've never actually done it but I've watched a video and it seemed pretty easy, first applying a thin layer of glue then the gold leaf then just dusting of the excess with a dry brush? The key seemed to paint with the glue where you want to gold to be.
Please clarify something for me. You have a prototype which is something rare. Why are you swapping out the PF to make it a regular game. You are losing the rarity and unusualness of the prototype game. I would think that you would want to, at least, transfer the prototype bits over to the new PF. Not bashing your decision, just asking.
Quoted from zr11990:Please clarify something for me. You have a prototype which is something rare. Why are you swapping out the PF to make it a regular game. You are losing the rarity and unusualness of the prototype game. I would think that you would want to, at least, transfer the prototype bits over to the new PF. Not bashing your decision, just asking.
That's the thing on jy -- there's only 1 true prototype part that's different, that being the magnet under the crane. Nos pf is not built for the magnet, and there's no code for it either way. The main differences are in the Playfield art, and the places where mechs were moved around, etc (extra holes in proto Playfield). Also the production harness vs proto harness have differences.
Main point being, a playing proto jy isn't worth much more than a standard production game as there's no feature gameplay differences. It's more interesting, and least to me, to have the Playfield cleaned, waxed, and hung as collector art. Then it's protected from further wear -- as you can see this was already an issue on several inserts.
Another route could have been to ship the proto pf to Cruzman or neo or hep and get it cleared but you kind of lose some uniqueness there as well. Better to save the pf in its existing condition imo.. and given that this package came with a nos pf it made sense to go that route.
Quoted from gmkalos:008 GOLD BARE-METAL FOIL & a sharp exacto knife with a lot of patience lol, here's a link...
http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html
Thanks! I'll check this out
Ultrasonic is pretty sweet! Pain to haul it from bathroom to garage to get the warm water in it to start with..wish I had hot taps outside. Yes - rinsed parts back in bathtub lol, this the wiring harness hanging in there. It did a good job on it, I was satisfied. Decals actually stayed on the targets surprisingly. I'm going to run the other harness thru without clipping the zip ties and see how that goes.. you really don't realize how much wire is there until you clip those ties and open up the bundles!!
Got walnut media brasso and flitz from prev project so I'll give them a shot to clean those things up.
Shouldnt need new t nuts -- those should be new on the nos pf..?
Not sure what I'm doing with ball guides yet, I'm dreading whatever it is.. I tried mirror polish on firepower and it just took forever but I may try it again. I was about to order chrom lockdown and rails last night until I saw 100 shipping.. so shipping both ways with all that stuff if you sent for chrome would easily be 200 I figure
Nos playfield had t-nuts? Did not remember that. If so and there is no clear in them then should be fine.
As for polishing ball guides yeah it's a lot of work. Sand sand sand forever with progressively finer grits until you can hit them with buffing wheel and rouge. Messy as hell too.
Chrome plating is great in that the chrome is harder than the stainless so takes a lot longer to get ball trails. Disadvantage is cost and if it flakes on you in the game well that's bad news.
Why ship and send out lockdown bars and side rails? With all the industrial stuff going on in Seattle there has to be a company down there that does chrome plating.
Quoted from Radius118:Is your simple green solution completely black yet?
Honestly it took I think 3 batches last time, changed out water solution today and another 3 batches. Seems like after that it just doesn't clean as well by 3rd run. Is that not normal? Maybe I need to up the % solution..
You have to set the timer for a little longer, but it will still clean really well until it has the color of old motor oil.
Of course the dirtier the parts, the faster the solution gets black. But you are wasting money changing it so soon. I use the same batch to do at least one game, if not more.
Quoted from Radius118:You have to set the timer for a little longer, but it will still clean really well until it has the color of old motor oil.
Of course the dirtier the parts, the faster the solution gets black. But you are wasting money changing it so soon. I use the same batch to do at least one game, if not more.
Huh interesting.. I'll try that out although honestly what's 4 gal of simple green -- 10 bucks.. more concerned about not hauling the full container of water solution back and forth from garage to house damn heavy!!
Quoted from Mbecker:Huh interesting.. I'll try that out although honestly what's 4 gal of simple green -- 10 bucks.. more concerned about not hauling the full container of water solution back and forth from garage to house damn heavy!!
It's your call...
There is a drain on the machine for a reason.. Put a nipple and hose on it, drain into 5 gal bucket.. put lid on bucket.. Problem solved.
Quoted from Radius118:It's your call...
There is a drain on the machine for a reason.. Put a nipple and hose on it, drain into 5 gal bucket.. put lid on bucket.. Problem solved.
Hmmm yeah that's a good call for draining - actually as well for filling
Quoted from Mbecker:Hmmm yeah that's a good call for draining - actually as well for filling
Yup... plus then you can reuse later. I am a cheap bastard so I save mine and use as long as possible. When it's no good for pin parts then I use it in the ultrasonic in my shop I use for car parts. You wanna see some NASTY simple green formula?
Quoted from Mbecker:Haha yeah I bet that gets nasty quick. So do you let yours heat up from ambient to sixty when you start a batch or just start cleaning without it heated up? Seems like it would take hours to heat up
If I am in the middle of a shop out or restore I don't turn off the heat. I just leave it on until every piece I need to clean in it is done.
In my shop I don't use it that often, so if I know a job is coming up that I want to use it on I will turn it on the day before.
Quoted from atothesquiz:Where did you source the new plastics?
The car plastic is from pps, although others have it as well if you search by part# on google. Ramps available from Australia. Plastics themselves, I've seen individual ones, I'd have to dig around again.. I went to almost every pinball site and just searched jy parts. But I had all the plastics already, other than needing a new wrecker one.
Quoted from Radius118:Even though JY isn't one of my favorites, I am looking forward to playing this game once you are done with it. Especially since I know the history.
For sure!! It might not be a long-term keeper for me given space considerations, but after all the work I think it will stay at least a year or two until I get that itch to switch something up
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