Did you check the EOS switch on the 100s unit for that player - I'm talking about the switch that activates when the coil fires, not the switches on top, although those are involved as well. Check at the bottom of the score unit, you'll see it... IIRC there may be two contacts, can't remember, make sure that switch or switches are opening, closing properly when the coil moves in and out.

I assume you cleaned the contacts? Any cold solder joints on the switches/reel boards? What about jones plugs?

If they operate the same as the other players but still dont work, then I would suspect dirty contacts, bad solder joint, or jones plugs. You can always trace the wires back from the reel and see if one has been damaged. It’s probably something simple and you just overlooked it like I do sometimes. I would start over and make sure that all the contacts are clean and switches operate as they should. Especially the EOS as Dono pointed out.

Does the actual coil for that reel work? If you move the reel to a non zero number does it reset when you hit the start button?

I agree with @dono. To expand a bit:

Assuming 1000s score correctly, what is left is a switch on the M relay, the 9th position switch on the 100 reel, the end of stroke switch (make, not break) on the 100 reel and the connection from there to the 1000 reel.

There are things you can try, such as jumper the 9 switch so that 100 and 1000 increment in tandem. Stuff like that helps you isolate where the break must be.

Good luck,
Dave

Player scoring carryover goes thru the player up unit stack switches. Have they been checked?

If 1st player 900 + 100 doesn't activate the 1000 Point relay (L), Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

pasted_image (resized).png

Ditto!

I've added some check marks to the snippet HowardR posted to help you:

- I would clip one end of the jumper to the green-white-red wire on the 1000 pt relay coil, and leave it there.

- I would clip the other end of the jumper where the green check mark is (maroon-white wire). Press the armature of the M (100 pt) relay with your finger (or do something on the playfield that scores 100 pts) and see if the Player 1 1000 score reel rotates with each 100 pts added - it should.
- If the 1000 score reel DOES rotate with each press of the M relay armature, that means your problem is somewhere between the 2 points that you've jumpered (shorted).
- If the 1000 score reel DOES NOT rotate, your problem might be a break in the wiring between the M relay switch and the right side of the "ON ADD 1ST. "100'S" switch. The M relay switch is most likely working correctly since all the other player's scoring works correctly, and that switch is common to them all.

- If the 1000 pt reel does rotate when jumpered as above, then move the end of the jumper that's now on the green checkmark, to the blue checkmark. Press the armature of the M relay again several times. Every time the 100 score reel goes from 9 to 0, the 1000 score reel should move once.
- If the 1000 score reel DOES move, then the problem is with the "9TH. POS. 1ST. "100'S" switch, because that's the switch that you're bypassing (shorting).
- If the 1000 score reel DOES NOT move, then the problem is with the "ON ADD 1ST. "100'S" switch.

- Use the wire colors to identify which switch you're looking at.

Some people might do it differently, but however you do it, the idea is to use the jumper to bypass one or more switches to identify which switch is not acting correctly.

Once you've identified which switch isn't closing, you'll have to examine that switch very closely: clean the contacts, gap the switch so it closes and swipes just a little when it does so, look at the back end of the switch for solder breaks/cold solder joints....anything that would keep the switch open electrically.

Hope that helps.

Jungle Queen scoring problem (resized).JPG

The green check mark is a maroon-white wire that runs between one side of the "ON ADD 1ST. 100'S" switch and lots of other places. You can see from the schematic that it goes to one side of the 100's chime coil, to one side of a switch on the M relay, and to all the other "ON ADD (2ND, 3RD, 4TH) 100'S" switches. Use the wire color to find where it is physically in your machine.

The blue check mark is on an orange-white wire that runs between the two switches shown on the schematic. The wire color is key to finding it in your machine.

Both of the switches by the blue and green check marks are on your score reel. The switch marked "M" on the schematic is on the M relay. Physically, if you look in your backbox, there is a line of 10 relays arranged vertically up the right-hand side. The M relay is the 5th from the bottom.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say that you found the maroon-white wire on the thousands... You're just dealing with switches on the 100 score reel. The player 1 1000pt score reel works correctly, if I understand your problem. It's just not getting the signal to fire - which comes from the 100pt relay (M), and then through the 2 switches (both on the 100pt score reel) near the checkmarks in the schematic.

I'm just trying to understand where the ends of your jumper wire are connected. When you say you jumpered the orange-white wire with no results; where was the other end of the jumper wire? Hopefully on the red check mark?

Also, continuity testers are not the best way to check whether switches are opening or closing as you can be reading continuity through another leg of the circuit. You need to desolder one leg of a switch to check it that way.

It's good to check that the contacts themselves are actually tight in the switch leafs and are electrically connected. Sometimes they can loosen to the point where they don't conduct well.

Then if the jumper was going between the red check and the blue check, and there was no change, then the problem must be in the "ON ADD 1ST. 100'S" switch, or somewhere to the right of the blue check at least. Can you put the jumper between the red check and the green check, and see if manually working the M relay in the head makes both the 100pt and 1000pt score reels rotate?

I'm going to assume you're trying to find where to hook up to the green check mark. It would be most useful to hook onto the switch tab in the 100pt score reel switch stack that has the maroon-white wire soldered to it. If you can't find that, the switch tab on the M relay that has a maroon-white wire should work too.

Your other option to help you pinpoint is to jumper between the blue and green check marks, just bypassing the "ON ADD 1ST. 100'S" switch. That might tell you something useful as well. You'll have to jumper between the OR+WH wire and the MAR-WH wire.

Either way, you'll have to find a MAR-WH wire to hook on to.