To remove it do you pretty much have to take the entire area apart? On the topside I have the rings removed, the bulbs out, etc, but on the underside do I need to remove all the plastics, other brackets, and everything to remove the gearbox assembly? It seems like the mounting screws are in an awkward place or maybe I'm just looking at it wrong.

Thank you for all the awesome replies! I will be removing it tonight. The rest of the Dredd looks to be in good shape other than a hauling mishap. I seem to have done something to the DMD because now it hums pretty loud and has waves in it. I want to get a color DMD anyway so it isn't a huge concern. Not as big as the deadworld issue anyways...

Yeah, I figure I hit a few bumps pretty hard cruising at 100+ on the way back from Dallas to make a 7:30pm ballet with my wife. I should have strapped the head down in hindsight because I heard it rise and slam down once or twice. It was working fine when I tested it out, when I got it home it was kinda funky. I turned it off and started reseating the first connectors I saw, turned it back on and it was significantly better, but still has some waves when it gets to high motion frames.

I actually have not had a chance to get into it. I removed a closet in my gameroom to add more space (about 6 feet in depth) and it ended up being much more... involved... than I had planned. I do construction for a living and it was still a bitch.

I ordered rubbers, superbands, spotlights, an LED strip and new balls that should be here by Friday and I will order a new ramp next payday (sucker is expensive at $250). I will have the gearbox out by this weekend and I'll take some pix of whatever route I decide to go. I have the rings off and bulbs out already. If the gearbox is not opened up I may send it off to that dude in new york for repair. If it has been opened I will probably pin everything together since I have all the tools (press, drill press, etc.) at my disposal.

Ive gotta thank all yall. I finally got around to fixing the gear and the pin method worked like a charm. Plus it was very easy with the correct tools.

I picked up 1/8" pins from O'reilly's Autoparts. They were too long at 3/4", but it was easy to grind them down flush. I also used red locktite on the ends to ensure they never work loose.

The box is held together by rivets, which are easy to drill out and remove, once you open the box, the gears are on the shafts, which fit into small holders in the top and bottom casings. You just remove the parts one by one until you get that one out; I removed everything and cleaned it all very well with carb cleaner. After all the work was done, I greased each part individually with white high temp, extra long life gun grease. It is expensive stuff, but it works awesome.

See above.

Hope this helps some!