(Topic ID: 82366)

Judge Dredd is dead!! No power at all!!


By joekiss

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 63 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by gilerakos
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#36 5 years ago

Take a pic of the same shot but with the meter out of the way.

RM

#39 5 years ago

Do you understand how line AC is wired?

120v AC, Black is Hot, White is Common, and Green is Ground.

DMM to AC, touch one probe to Black and the other to White, and you should see about 120v

Black to Green is 1/2 the circuit, so it's 60v, and White to Green is the other 1/2, also 60v.

Green is just the ground wire.

RM

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

If you don't know what you're doing, you're playing with some dangerous stuff.

?? Measuring across the hot to ground should give your 120, as will hot to neutral, neutral to ground should given you 0.

I may be wrong about that part.

RM

#49 5 years ago

That's a broken thermistor. It's a current inrush limiter, high resistance when cold (and the game is first turned on) and then resistance drops to almost nothing when it warms up after a second or two. It is supposed to reduce stress or electronic components at turn-on.

You just have to de-solder the old one and solder in a new one.

It's not absolutely needed, you could just solder a plain wire connection there, but it's probably best to replace it with a new one.

RM

#50 5 years ago

This is a replacement:

Part Number: B57238S0259
Inrush Current Limiter

15% Discount for purchase of 10 or more
Thermister, NTC
2.5 ohm, 8.4 Amps
Alternate for CL30 as used by Williams (Williams part number 5016-12978-00)
Manufacture:Epcos
15% Discount for purchase of 10 or more
Price: $1.25

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

RM

#52 5 years ago

I doubt if it "blew" like a fuse or something.

That's not what thermisters do. They just prevent a spike of normal range current from "shocking" the electronics when the game is first switched on. I have seen one leg break off of a thermister before like that. I think the joint just fails from thermal cycling (hot/cold).

That other gadget soldered across both the Black and White terminals is a MOV (metal oxide varistor). That is the one that blows up when there is a big surge of power (like a lightning strike) to save the machine. If the MOV blew from a big power spike, it looks obviously fried.

You should be able to replace the thermister and it should stay good for years and years.

RM

#54 5 years ago
Quoted from joekiss:

So if I replace it all should be good??

Yes.

Like I said, the thermister is not absolutely necessary - it can be replaced with a short piece of wire heavy enough to handle wall current, but it's probably best to replace it.

You could use a piece of wire temporarily, then open it back up again when the replacement thermister comes in the mail. That way you can play the game in the mean time.

If anyone disagrees with me, feel free to chime in.

RussM

#56 5 years ago

Possible, but unlikely. Worth checking, I guess.

The days of electronics parts at a local store are almost dead.

RM

#61 5 years ago

Glad it worked out.

RussMyers

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