(Topic ID: 82366)

Judge Dredd is dead!! No power at all!!


By joekiss

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 63 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by gilerakos
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 63 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 5 years ago

Need some advice. I moved my dredd and now it wont come on. At all. Nothing like its not plugged in at all. I know the outlet works and the game worked fine before I moved it. Advice? Where should I start??

#2 5 years ago

Check the fuse on the power supply?

Of course make sure the pinball end of the plug is still connected

#3 5 years ago

If the fuse blew wouldn't the PF lights still come on??

#4 5 years ago

Maybe the fuse inside the power outlet inside the bottom of the game.

#5 5 years ago

If that blows will I get nothing??

#6 5 years ago

Well, see if that outlet inside your game has power. It should have power even if the game is off. If that outlet doesn't have power, then you have a cord problem or that fuse possibly. It is a service outlet for plugging in soldering iron's etc while the game is powered off. I have used it several times on my JD.

#7 5 years ago

Good idea mine doesn't have the plug. Just a plastic cap where it should be.

#8 5 years ago

You sure the plug is not controlled by a light switch?

#9 5 years ago

Oh yes. Ive tried two different outlets.

#10 5 years ago

did you check all connections in the back box to make sure nothing came loose while moving it?

#12 5 years ago

If you blew the main fuse, you would get nothing.. no lights.. nothing at all.. start there... also check to see if the cord pulled loose on the inside of the cabinet.

#13 5 years ago

Which is the main fuse??

#14 5 years ago

If you open your coin door and look to the right, you will see a silver metal box with a black cap on it, twist off the cap and check the fuse inside that.. if that is dead you will get nothing as you describe.

#15 5 years ago

Fuse checks out. its good.

#16 5 years ago

Damaged power cable?

#17 5 years ago

I don't think so.

#18 5 years ago

You checked all the connections behind the backglass? Maybe the cord was pulled and tugged a wire inside the cabinet?

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from balboarules:

You checked all the connections behind the backglass? Maybe the cord was pulled and tugged a wire inside the cabinet?

And double checked the power cord didn't get pulled out, where it attaches to the back of the cabinet?

#20 5 years ago

And when you checked the fuses you pulled them and used a meter right? Not just a visual check.

#21 5 years ago

Yes, the above is very important!

Quoted from practicalsteve:And when you checked the fuses you pulled them and used a meter right? Not just a visual check.

Yes, VERY important! Use a meter if possible

#22 5 years ago

Could be the main varistor in that main power box as well. Could be a bad cord as well.

Get a high voltage tester, the wand kind you can just place near something and it lights up if over 60v. Trace from the wall, over the cord to the box. This is a very simple circuit to within the power box, and from there it's the fuse or varistor.

#23 5 years ago

Ive checked all connections and all fuses with my meter. Everything is plugged in.

#24 5 years ago

Will my meter do the high voltage thing??

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from joekiss:

Will my meter do the high voltage thing??

Well, not with a quick wave like the other tool. You would have to take the box apart and measure at the hot and ground, but I would only recommend that if you are very comfortable with electricity, as there is full 120v wall voltage. So long as the machine is plugged in, inside that box, the hot is always live prior to the switch connection. The wand thing (not sure what it's called) is great for many home uses, and like $15.

You could try swapping out the power cord, could be that has a problem, it can happen.

#26 5 years ago

Have you checked to make sure your transformer is tapped properly for 120v (butterfly) since it might be a reimport?

viperrwk

#27 5 years ago

Any news or updates on this?

#28 5 years ago

no sorry. Will work on it tonight or tomorrow. I really think theres a loose connection somewhere.

1 week later
#29 5 years ago

Still no progress. Ive checked everything I know how to.

#30 5 years ago

Do you have voltage at connector J101 on your driver board? pins 1&2 red wires should have 9v AC, pins 4-7 blue/white wires 13v AC. That's coming direct from your transformer, so if no power there, the transformer must not be getting power.

Does that connector look good too? Not browned from heat damage like you sometimes see on GI connectors?

#31 5 years ago

plug i bet, happened to me several times

#32 5 years ago

Hope did this right. Looks like there is current going into the on/off switch but none coming out. What now???P3090164.JPGP3090165.JPG

#33 5 years ago

I literally moved mine from one side of the room to the other and had no power. Turned out to be the small ???Varsitor??? (Not sure if thats the name or not?) separated from the vibration I guess. Either that or it was just stressed and ready to go anyways. Its a small grey ceramic looking cap under your meter. You can see it in your first pic there. Check it to make sure its not cracked or separated. If you have a DMM, test it for continuity as well. Couldnt get the same part but had an equivalent at Radio Shack. Good luck

#34 5 years ago

Ah, see that its already been mentioned. Didnt read all the posts..... But yeah, be sure to check that.

#35 5 years ago

hi joe,you have to put the leads into the jacks on the meter.you can't test voltage the way you have it on the wire.that way only measures amperage.take the cord out of the back of the game .put black lead from meter into left slot on plug,put the red lead into the right slot on the plug.meter set to vac.do you have a reading. take a pic.also take a pic of the service box without your meter in the way. g.l.joe

#36 5 years ago

Take a pic of the same shot but with the meter out of the way.

RM

#37 5 years ago

P3100168.JPGP3100168.JPGP3100169.JPG

#38 5 years ago

Did another reading. the green line coming into the machine has nothing.

#39 5 years ago

Do you understand how line AC is wired?

120v AC, Black is Hot, White is Common, and Green is Ground.

DMM to AC, touch one probe to Black and the other to White, and you should see about 120v

Black to Green is 1/2 the circuit, so it's 60v, and White to Green is the other 1/2, also 60v.

Green is just the ground wire.

RM

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from joekiss:

Looks like there is current going into the on/off switch but none coming out. What now???

I had a bad on/off switch on one of my machines. $5 part at the local electronics store.

#41 5 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Do you understand how line AC is wired?
120v AC, Black is Hot, White is Common, and Green is Ground.
DMM to AC, touch one probe to Black and the other to White, and you should see about 120v
Black to Green is 1/2 the circuit, so it's 60v, and White to Green is the other 1/2, also 60v.
Green is just the ground wire.
RM

I don't understand a thing just taking advice and hoping I don't get zapped. So the black wire should show something also?? White is the only wire with anything coming into the machine.

#42 5 years ago

If you don't know what you're doing, you're playing with some dangerous stuff.

Quoted from RussMyers:

Black to Green is 1/2 the circuit, so it's 60v, and White to Green is the other 1/2, also 60v.

?? Measuring across the hot to ground should give your 120, as will hot to neutral, neutral to ground should given you 0.

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

If you don't know what you're doing, you're playing with some dangerous stuff.

?? Measuring across the hot to ground should give your 120, as will hot to neutral, neutral to ground should given you 0.

I may be wrong about that part.

RM

#44 5 years ago

hi joe,did you put the leads in to your meter?

#45 5 years ago

Put one lead on the green connection and one on the black: what does your meter say?

Put one lead on the green and one on the red: what does your meter say?

there should not be any power to the white connection, it is the neutral wire. Don't bother with it.

If you get readings, you at least know you have power to that point. If you get nothing, trace the wires back to a previous connection and test again, same process. You need to find where power starts/stops.

This is electricity 101. If you get power in the first tests I typed, the other pinhead shere can tell you how to test the right side of your pic. I'm assuming that box is an inverter, but I'm not sure.

#46 5 years ago

The box is a EMI filter. So, you should get 120VAC from the black to green and black to white on the left side of the filter, you should also get 120VAC on the right side of the filter (black to white wires) if you do not, the filter needs to be replaced. The filter removes any line noise before it goes into the machine. Remember your reading may not be exactly 120VAC this can fluctuate slightly.

You also want to check continuity on the switch which is connected right after the filter. Basicly if power is coming out on the right side of the filter the black and white wires then go to the switch. flick the switch on and see if there is power on the other side of switch on the black and white wire. If there is not, then the switch is bad.

This is not a replacement for the game just an FYI.
ebay.com link » Taishing Tsc 10ba1 Emi Filter 250vac 50 60hz 10a

Very basic meter instruction.

#47 5 years ago

OK got a little help problem was no power on the red wire going to the switch we messed with and this thing started sparking. P3110172.JPGP3110173.JPG

#48 5 years ago

that used to be, the NTC

#49 5 years ago

That's a broken thermistor. It's a current inrush limiter, high resistance when cold (and the game is first turned on) and then resistance drops to almost nothing when it warms up after a second or two. It is supposed to reduce stress or electronic components at turn-on.

You just have to de-solder the old one and solder in a new one.

It's not absolutely needed, you could just solder a plain wire connection there, but it's probably best to replace it with a new one.

RM

#50 5 years ago

This is a replacement:

Part Number: B57238S0259
Inrush Current Limiter

15% Discount for purchase of 10 or more
Thermister, NTC
2.5 ohm, 8.4 Amps
Alternate for CL30 as used by Williams (Williams part number 5016-12978-00)
Manufacture:Epcos
15% Discount for purchase of 10 or more
Price: $1.25

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

RM

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There are 63 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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