(Topic ID: 115992)

Judge Dredd fuse, power board issue


By bigtanker5

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Big70
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Hi everyone, newbie pinball machine owner with a problem or two.
Purchased a Judge Dredd machine recently. It was working (playable) when I got it about three months ago, but over time realized it has a few of problems. Lots of similar issues I've read about eg, Deadworld gearbox not working, right shooter button not working, lots of light strings not working (Dodgy wiring and burnt connector plug), etc.
Now when I turn it on does all sorts of strange things and wont start up.
I did notice that the lights in the "normal game" "Supergame" buttons on the front of the cabinet no longer light up. Test buttons no longer work inside the door, Right flipper pulses constantly, some poppers pulse also.
When I checked in the upper cabinet, first thing I noticed was the batteries were stuffed and leaking slightly, I removed the CPU board, cleaned it up, and put new batteries in. This reset the game but still wouldn't start up properly.
Checking further I found that Fuse 114 was blown, when replacing the fuse it blows straight away.
Also noticed the power board leds, only 3 light up, when replacing F114 t 5 light up but fade once the fuse blows.
Also two of the pop targets were jammed down and never came up, I have freed them, not sure if this is related.
I removed all the wires from the Power board except for the input wires from the transformer, fitted a new fuse, turned it on and it still blows. From this I presume there is a fault with the Power driver board, or one or the components on it.
Sorry to ramble but trying to give an idea of the machine condition.
Main question is, Is it worth buying a new Power board or trying to repair the old one?
Is it possible to start a game with F114 blown?
Does anyone think this may solve some of my problems?

#2 4 years ago

When I bought my Judge Dredd I had the exact same problem with the test buttons not working, plus the coin accepters were dead and the start button. So I couldn't even play or test it. The previous owner left the batteries in and they leaked all over the MPU board. At least 35+ components were damaged. Now I can change a few resistors, diodes and transistors if I have to, but 35 was a little much for my skill level and time. Since I bought it via ebay and the seller had the auction as "working" I contacted him and we worked out a deal and ended up buying a new MPU board and I sent him the damaged one which we felt was fair.

So what I would do is get a new MPU or repair it first before working on anything else, because you can't test anything without it.
There's a few guys on the forums that repair boards this thread talks about a bunch of them
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/recomendation-for-board-repair-guy

If you just want to buy a new one http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm seems to have the the best price for it. You just need to call to order it cause their web site doesn't have a shopping cart.

If the batteries leaked really bad you may need to change the connectors that go to the board too. This is something I needed to do.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/default.asp is your place for that
If you need a list of the connectors let me know cause I have it right next to me just need to type it out lol.

#3 4 years ago

Thanks for that, although I think the fault is in the power driver board. The CPU board seems ok, the battery damage was minimal and after I cleaned it an fitted new batteries the LEDs on the CPU board seem to work correctly. Also the test buttons and the start buttons were working when I got it.
I may not be testing it properly but if I only have the power board connected to the transformer and the fuse is still blowing I presume the fault is in that board. From what I can see in the manual the other boards all get their power from the Power board so that should be the starting point.
Like I said I'm new to pinball repair and hopefully I am using the right terms for components.

#4 4 years ago

If it's repeatedly blowing the F114 fuse then there is a short somewhere in the circuit, could be related to the acid damage to the board but also might have a short under the playfield. You could quite likely replace the driver board and still have the same issue.

#5 4 years ago

The only thing is, as I said in the first post I powered up the Power Driver board with only the input wires plugged in, taking the playfield and the CPU board(with the batteries) out of the equation, and the fuse still blows. I need to get a schematic wiring chart for the power driver board to find out which components are in the F114 circuit.
Thanks for the replies, I am very confident with electronic repairs but it is the first time working on a pinball machine

#7 4 years ago

I don't think your F114 fuse blowing has to do with the battery acid on your MPU and that you have a separate issue. I do know the components that operate the test buttons and the start button are right under the battery holder though for what it's worth.

#8 4 years ago

It's definitely worth repairing your driver board and will be the far cheaper option if you are able to solder and replace the components yourself. A new driver board will run you $299 plus shipping vs replacing some parts that will run you $2 - $3 a piece on your current board.

You've pretty much confirmed it's a driver board issue that is blowing your fuse F114 if you've only got the J101 power connector plugged in and nothing else. You need to test BR1 (that's a bridge rectifier) and Capacitors C6 and C7. Those are most likely your culprits blowing F114. My money is the bridge is shorted since the fuse blows instantly. That would also explain why you have no dedicated switches (the test buttons) since BR1 also provides the voltage to a voltage regulator that gives the switch matrix its +12 volts. If BR1 is shorted, you'll never get the 12 volts to the switch matrix and no switches will work. Furthermore, a weak 12 volts to the switch matrix can cause random coils to fire. So it's quite possible most of the issues you described are all caused by this driver board problem.

BR1 is a 35 amp 200 volt bridge rectifier. You can buy them for $1.75 at Pinball Life. I'm sure Great Plains Electronics that a previous poster mentioned carries them too. You might even find them in a local electronics store like Radio Shack or Fry's Electronics. If you need to replace capacitors C6 and C7, they are 15000 UF at 25 volts in the manual. 15000 UF and 35 volts is fine to use and will most likely be what you find as a replacement. Those can be bought at Pinball Life for $2.50 each. Again, Great Plains should have them, as well as many other online stores. Not sure you'd find those at a Radio Shack, but a Fry's Electronics might carry them.

While you're replacing the bad parts on the board causing the fuse to blow, you might as well take care of that burnt GI plug in causing strings of lights to be out since the board will be out of the machine. You need to replace the male pins on the board, as well as the female connector too. You can get them from Great Plains, Marco Specialties, and plenty of other places online. If you prefer to fix the fuse issue first then worry about the connectors later, that's fine too. Just a pain to pull the driver board with all those plugs.

#9 4 years ago

Thanks for the info guys. As I'm in Australia we don't have any of those stores here but I will check with the local electronics store to see if they have any of these components, otherwise I will have to get them online.
I do believe there are a few issues with this machine, I'm just trying to fix them in the right order.

Also is it possible to get the machine to run with the F114 fuse blown? I would like to know as I presume the machine was repaired to just operate so the last guy could sell it. I never checked it very well before purchasing it so I don't know if it was out then or it is something that just happened.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from bigtanker5:

Also is it possible to get the machine to run with the F114 fuse blown? I

No, you won't be able to start a game, as the switches don't register.

#11 4 years ago

thanks, must have happened since I got it then.

#12 4 years ago

Update: Cheers guys, turns out BR1 was shorted, Got one from local electronics shop, different pins on it, but I modified it, fitted it to the board and no more blown fuse.
It starts up as it did when I got it and the test buttons all work again. Still have a few light strings out but I can still play it.
Part cost me about $5 so I'm stoked I didn't have to pay for a new board.

#13 4 years ago

Good job. Enjoy it, it's s great game.

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