Okay so I'm new to owning/fixing pinballs, went and picked up my first one. A nice looking judge Dredd. It worked when I tested everything but now that it's moved into my basement. I've had several issues and am just looking for some direction here. I had a few rows with grounding errors on them. All of which went away after just moving around some wires. Short somewhere I'm sure. But with those gone testing solenoids #1-8 won't fire. And I keep blowing Fuse F105. If I replace the fuse the deadworld and crane power on and won't stop until the fuse blows. Some direction would be appreciated.

Just an update. So after carefully looking through all wiring to coils #1-8 I didn't see anything too out of place. I then went ahead and tested all the coils to make sure they were good (which they were). I moved on to the power driver board, took it out and tested all of the transistors. Two of which tested bad, both go to the sniper tower coil. I ordered in some parts and replaced those. Hooked everything back up and was still blowing Fuse F105. So frustrated me desided to just replace the coil with new even though it had tested good. I didn't want any short cuts so I pulled the power driver board back out and tested the transistors agian. The 2 I replaced tested bad. So I replaced them again along with the little 2n5401 transistor as well as the diode. Put it all back in and the fuse f105 still blows, and the coil is now locking on! When I shut the coin door. I desodered the coil and played a couple games with a rag stuffed in the hole of the sniper tower entrance and everything plays fine, no blown fuses. What am I missing ???

So after playing around 100 games with the wire from j130 to the sniper tower coil disconnected with no issues. I ordered a new driver board from rottondog amusements. I installed the new board and I still blow fuse f105 if I fire any of the high power coils in test. I pulled the wire to the sniper tower out of the machine just so I could look at it and be 100% that the wire wasn't pinched or shorting on anything. It looks fine. I'm completely at a lose as to what to check anymore!

If I've read correctly there shouldn't be a wrong way to wire my coil back on because the diode is on the board and not on the coil, is that correct??. And the second time I soldered new transistors on as well as the diode, I replaced the coil with new at the same time with no luck

@ pintime, it's solenoid # 3 right popper

So the switch issues I don't know how or why they were resolved. I looked and prodded forever and they just ceased to be a problem, I've had the playfeild up and down countless times and they haven't come back. The solenoid being stuck because of a bad switch I don't think is the problem because even if I got into the test menu and fire a different coil on that circuit fuse f105 will blow. But if I disconnect just the right popper from j130 it won't and everything works. If I connect everything up the way it should be. As soon as I power up the game the deadworld and crane arm move continuously, when I close the coin door hitting the high power switch they both slow down and if I test fire a coil I blow the fuse. If I do the same without the right popper hooked up they don't move and everything in test works great and I can play the game minus that coil of course.

With the new board the fuse won't blow with that coil removed. I did test the coil before and it did test fine. It was a new coil, before I put it in a few days ago with the old board. I do have two more new coils coming in the mail, should be here this week hopefully.

I am desoldering the violet-orange wire from the coil. It goes from the coil to the board on connector j130. And yes the other high power coils have power when I do this and work correctly.

I also ordered a new connector for j130 going to replace that when it shows up in the mail. Could a workout connector blow fuses??

I had ordered the ls374 but changed my mind and just got a new board thus eliminating that as the bad part or so I think.

How do you tell if the ribbon cables are bad? And if one was what would it do?. And yes I have the entire wire out and it looks okay, no bare spots anyways

If when I have everything hooked up, what is the relationship between the planet always turning when the game is on and blowing f105 when the sniper tower is hooked up. I don't get the connection between the two

I take it an emi board are the little PCB by the motor. What do they do? But I can disconnect them. I have to wait until I get my connectiors tomorrow because I have the wires out of the old one. And the ribbon cables felt tight when I pulled them off and put back on, but I'm just going to get some new ones

X2

Okay another update. I put all new ribbon cables on, replaced the j130 connector. Put a new transistor in for the right popper (sniper tower coil) and the right shooter as well. Why that was bad idk. Put a new coil in the right popper(sniper tower). Power up the game and the deadworld and crane arm continuously spin. But don't if I disconnect the knocker for the game. All the coils minus the right shooter work now. Fix one thing and have another problem lol.

So I grounded the right shooter coil and it has power. I check continuity from the coil to the connector on j130. The transistor is new and tests fine. On these new rottondog boards where are the pre drive transistors? Did they do away with something I only see q70 but not the other two listed in test menu. Because the reason it won't fire the shooter lane must be up stream of j130 if I can jump fire the coil correct??

How would you know if your logic chip is bad? If it was would just one thing not work or everything going through the chip. I'm guessing here but should I replace the LC . Is that the reason my ball launcher isnt working. The coil fires if I ground it, the transistor is new and I have continuity thru the wire so that's not broken, it has a new connector and pins on it. The next thing is the chip but everything else that goes thru it works.

I did test them all in test mode. Right shooter did not fire, so tested the coil with dmm and it tested good. So to make sure it did operate I grounded it to see. Lucky for me I am not longer blowing fuses which knocks my frustrations down some lol. I did order a new chip just I case I need it as well as a new coil. I'm going to replace everything at once to hopefully take car of it. Shotgun method.

Last update. Got my parts in, I replaced the right shooter coil, transistor and logic chip all at once. And we got the dredd working at long last. The knocker doesn't work yet but I'm sure that's just a bad coil and I don't care that it doesn't work so thats just going to stay disconnected for now. Thanks for all the know how from you more experienced pinheads. I learned alot to say the least.