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(Topic ID: 240789)

Judge Dredd issues, need some guidance.


By Skooiker

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pinballmike217
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Okay so I'm new to owning/fixing pinballs, went and picked up my first one. A nice looking judge Dredd. It worked when I tested everything but now that it's moved into my basement. I've had several issues and am just looking for some direction here. I had a few rows with grounding errors on them. All of which went away after just moving around some wires. Short somewhere I'm sure. But with those gone testing solenoids #1-8 won't fire. And I keep blowing Fuse F105. If I replace the fuse the deadworld and crane power on and won't stop until the fuse blows. Some direction would be appreciated.

1 week later
#2 1 year ago

Just an update. So after carefully looking through all wiring to coils #1-8 I didn't see anything too out of place. I then went ahead and tested all the coils to make sure they were good (which they were). I moved on to the power driver board, took it out and tested all of the transistors. Two of which tested bad, both go to the sniper tower coil. I ordered in some parts and replaced those. Hooked everything back up and was still blowing Fuse F105. So frustrated me desided to just replace the coil with new even though it had tested good. I didn't want any short cuts so I pulled the power driver board back out and tested the transistors agian. The 2 I replaced tested bad. So I replaced them again along with the little 2n5401 transistor as well as the diode. Put it all back in and the fuse f105 still blows, and the coil is now locking on! When I shut the coin door. I desodered the coil and played a couple games with a rag stuffed in the hole of the sniper tower entrance and everything plays fine, no blown fuses. What am I missing ???

1 week later
#3 1 year ago

So after playing around 100 games with the wire from j130 to the sniper tower coil disconnected with no issues. I ordered a new driver board from rottondog amusements. I installed the new board and I still blow fuse f105 if I fire any of the high power coils in test. I pulled the wire to the sniper tower out of the machine just so I could look at it and be 100% that the wire wasn't pinched or shorting on anything. It looks fine. I'm completely at a lose as to what to check anymore!

#4 1 year ago

So what I think your missing is you need to replace the coil and the transistors at the same time. Your Coil will ruin your board and your board will ruin the coil. I have had them test ok but be bad, I would go back to your original board replace the bad transistors and also check the pre-driver pinball wikipedia for instructions on that, would swap out the coil again for good measures, and make sure this coil is not wired backwards, has the diodes its supposed to have if applicable and you should be good to go.

#5 1 year ago

If I've read correctly there shouldn't be a wrong way to wire my coil back on because the diode is on the board and not on the coil, is that correct??. And the second time I soldered new transistors on as well as the diode, I replaced the coil with new at the same time with no luck

#6 1 year ago

Coils rarely go bad,if you have a coil locked on then that coil is finding a source to ground somewhere.What solenoid number is this? I looked on schematics and didn't see a solenoid with that name.

#7 1 year ago

Just a suggestion, but to get your problem seen by more eyes who know this game, I would post your problem in the Judge Dredd owners thread. A lot of JD owners will see it there that may not see it as its own thread. I just stumbled across your thread now and would have seen it 2 weeks ago if it was in the JD thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only

#8 1 year ago

@ pintime, it's solenoid # 3 right popper

#9 1 year ago

How do you know its still not a stuck switch causing the coil to repeatedly fire? What was the root cause of your switch matrix issues? "Moving the wires around" caused the coil issues - so you need to revisit what you did to "fix" the switch matrix and verify it isn't the source of your current problems.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Skooiker:

So after playing around 100 games with the wire from j130 to the sniper tower coil disconnected with no issues. I ordered a new driver board from rottondog amusements. I installed the new board and I still blow fuse f105 if I fire any of the high power coils in test. I pulled the wire to the sniper tower out of the machine just so I could look at it and be 100% that the wire wasn't pinched or shorting on anything. It looks fine. I'm completely at a lose as to what to check anymore!

It played fine with that one coil removed from the circuit. With new board,all high current coil blow a fuse? Does the fuse blow on the new board with only that coil removed? If not the problem must be that coil.

#11 1 year ago

So the switch issues I don't know how or why they were resolved. I looked and prodded forever and they just ceased to be a problem, I've had the playfeild up and down countless times and they haven't come back. The solenoid being stuck because of a bad switch I don't think is the problem because even if I got into the test menu and fire a different coil on that circuit fuse f105 will blow. But if I disconnect just the right popper from j130 it won't and everything works. If I connect everything up the way it should be. As soon as I power up the game the deadworld and crane arm move continuously, when I close the coin door hitting the high power switch they both slow down and if I test fire a coil I blow the fuse. If I do the same without the right popper hooked up they don't move and everything in test works great and I can play the game minus that coil of course.

#12 1 year ago

With the new board the fuse won't blow with that coil removed. I did test the coil before and it did test fine. It was a new coil, before I put it in a few days ago with the old board. I do have two more new coils coming in the mail, should be here this week hopefully.

#13 1 year ago

Which wire are you disconnecting from the popper? Do the other high power coils have power and work when you disconnect the sniper tower?

#14 1 year ago

I am desoldering the violet-orange wire from the coil. It goes from the coil to the board on connector j130. And yes the other high power coils have power when I do this and work correctly.

#15 1 year ago

I also ordered a new connector for j130 going to replace that when it shows up in the mail. Could a workout connector blow fuses??

#16 1 year ago

The connector is probably not the issue.

If you are changing the TIP36C, the TIP 102 and the 2N5401 each time and the coil is still locking on then the issue is further upstream in the 74LS374.

What is weird is the behavior you describe with the coil connected, namely all of the other activity of the other high power coils. Which is why I was asking about the switches, because many of the switches related to those devices that all power on are in the same column.

#17 1 year ago

I had ordered the ls374 but changed my mind and just got a new board thus eliminating that as the bad part or so I think.

#18 1 year ago

The violet/orange wire was pulled from board to coil and it's okay?All switches work correctly in switch test.? Check and reseat ribbon cables?

#19 1 year ago

How do you tell if the ribbon cables are bad? And if one was what would it do?. And yes I have the entire wire out and it looks okay, no bare spots anyways

#20 1 year ago

If when I have everything hooked up, what is the relationship between the planet always turning when the game is on and blowing f105 when the sniper tower is hooked up. I don't get the connection between the two

#21 1 year ago

For ribbon cable Visual inspection for damage also how tightly they seat,they could be tested with meter but I keep a set of new ones to use for testing. Is motor driven by emi board ? Have you tried disconnecting emi board?

#22 1 year ago

I take it an emi board are the little PCB by the motor. What do they do? But I can disconnect them. I have to wait until I get my connectiors tomorrow because I have the wires out of the old one. And the ribbon cables felt tight when I pulled them off and put back on, but I'm just going to get some new ones

#23 1 year ago

I just want to say, thank you to all the pinsiders who offer this free technical advice to us all! I own JD as well, but never had problems, just tuned in to see what went wrong. obviously, immediately, I was lost in this problem, but thank you to those experts of you who contribute your expertise!

Best,
Ian

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

I just want to say, thank you to all the pinsiders who offer this free technical advice to us all! I own JD as well, but never had problems, just tuned in to see what went wrong. obviously, immediately, I was lost in this problem, but thank you to those experts of you who contribute your expertise!
Best,
Ian

X2

#25 1 year ago

Maybe the diode blew out when all this was happening. I would guess that a ic got fried. Hopefully they are socketed in those rottendog boards.

#26 1 year ago

Okay another update. I put all new ribbon cables on, replaced the j130 connector. Put a new transistor in for the right popper (sniper tower coil) and the right shooter as well. Why that was bad idk. Put a new coil in the right popper(sniper tower). Power up the game and the deadworld and crane arm continuously spin. But don't if I disconnect the knocker for the game. All the coils minus the right shooter work now. Fix one thing and have another problem lol.

#27 1 year ago

my machine has the modification to restore the ball locking on the dead world , in this setup if a ball is left on the dead world and i turn the machine on it will not play or activate until the crane and spinning dead world has unloaded the ball and when the ball enters the opto switches in the ball through it will operate normally , the ball through opto boards are notorious points of problems on this machine from what i've read , my boards were replaced by a third party brand long ago and i still get occasional issues with a single ball switch errors . i believe they have additional leds on them for indication for easy troubleshooting .

#28 1 year ago

If the game plays fine with one coil wire disconnected then a ground short in that wire is a possibility. I would leave that wire disconnected and run a jumper wire from that coil to its origin point on the board as a test to bypass the possible ground short. With the jumper wire installed turn game back and and hopefully fuse won't blow. If fuse doesn't blow play a test game and if all is good then go ahead and rewire that coil wire. It is also possible the disconnected coil wire is daisy chained to another coil. If first test doesn't work you may have to break down wiring harness and chase that disconnected wire back to it's connection point at the next coil in the chain and look for breaks or shorts.

#29 1 year ago

So I grounded the right shooter coil and it has power. I check continuity from the coil to the connector on j130. The transistor is new and tests fine. On these new rottondog boards where are the pre drive transistors? Did they do away with something I only see q70 but not the other two listed in test menu. Because the reason it won't fire the shooter lane must be up stream of j130 if I can jump fire the coil correct??

#30 1 year ago

How would you know if your logic chip is bad? If it was would just one thing not work or everything going through the chip. I'm guessing here but should I replace the LC . Is that the reason my ball launcher isnt working. The coil fires if I ground it, the transistor is new and I have continuity thru the wire so that's not broken, it has a new connector and pins on it. The next thing is the chip but everything else that goes thru it works.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from Skooiker:

So I grounded the right shooter coil and it has power. I check continuity from the coil to the connector on j130. The transistor is new and tests fine. On these new rottondog boards where are the pre drive transistors? Did they do away with something I only see q70 but not the other two listed in test menu. Because the reason it won't fire the shooter lane must be up stream of j130 if I can jump fire the coil correct??

Back to basics first. Did you check the shooter switch in switch test mode to make sure it is good? Coil won't fire unless switch tells it to in gameplay. I would guess Board is not the problem since you put in a new one. Why are you jump grounding the coil when you can test coils in diagnostic coil test mode? It's far easier to use the built in diagnostics. I would start over with a new fuse, put the game in coil test mode and then test each coil one at a time. Chances are when you activate the bad coil in test mode you will pop the fuse. Then, you can start again there.

#32 1 year ago

I did test them all in test mode. Right shooter did not fire, so tested the coil with dmm and it tested good. So to make sure it did operate I grounded it to see. Lucky for me I am not longer blowing fuses which knocks my frustrations down some lol. I did order a new chip just I case I need it as well as a new coil. I'm going to replace everything at once to hopefully take car of it. Shotgun method.

#33 1 year ago

Last update. Got my parts in, I replaced the right shooter coil, transistor and logic chip all at once. And we got the dredd working at long last. The knocker doesn't work yet but I'm sure that's just a bad coil and I don't care that it doesn't work so thats just going to stay disconnected for now. Thanks for all the know how from you more experienced pinheads. I learned alot to say the least.

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from Skooiker:

Last update. Got my parts in, I replaced the right shooter coil, transistor and logic chip all at once. And we got the dredd working at long last. The knocker doesn't work yet but I'm sure that's just a bad coil and I don't care that it doesn't work so thats just going to stay disconnected for now. Thanks for all the know how from you more experienced pinheads. I learned alot to say the least.

Congrats, nice work! The widebody Bally/Williams games can be a real challenge, especially for people just getting into the hobby. Way to stick with it!

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