Judge Dredd
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Hi Guys, I just picked up a Judge Dredd that was severely neglected, cabinet is in rough shape, missing the driver board and the dot matrix control board looks fried. Play field looks excellent and every ramp is in great shape, they just need to be cleaned. I am currently stripping the whole play field and am wondering if I should try to restore it or part it out. I am still new to fixing pins. Thanks in advance for the input.
Trust me, I would love nothing more than restore it and keep it but the more I take it apart the more intimated I get in regards to getting it back together the right way. Once I receive the driver board , I can see what's really working and what's not. Also , the wiring actually looks good. It doesn't look like any work was ever done to it before.
Thanks for the confidence boasting guys. I'm going for it. And yes I have been taking pictures with every part I remove. It is very time consuming but will help for sure. Here is the pictures of the Dmd controller board. Looks toasted to me. Thanks again for all the suggestions. I'm open to more if anyone has them.
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image-811.jpgI'm a descent solderer with descent knowledge of electronics but new to pinball repair. But thanks for the good advice Terry. It's nice to know you guys will help me through this.
Question: what would you use to clean the optics on all the ramps? There are a butt load of them and they are all filthy as hell.
Viper. Good to hear from you again. I think I'm going to buy a new board and keep this one as spare parts.
I did find the board for about $90 on PBresource. If anyone knows where i can get it cheaper, please let me know. If not then Ill have to go for the $90. Thanks for the kind words and good advice regarding the planet motor.
I've been stripping the game down a little every night. There a tons of parts on this game. Taking the pics before and after I remove a part is the most time consuming part.
Quoted from legotech1:I have one and think the next thing is powder coat. I've seen a red one anyone have a picture of one powder coated?
Mine is dust coated.... Bet YA never seen one like this have YA ?
Quoted from legotech1:I picked one up for a friend that was from a closing union burger joint. I think it had 1/4 inch of fry grease on certain parts.
Oh wow. That sounds like a nightmare to get clean. Bad ventilation system in that place.
Hmmmmm. I guess that's the problem huh ? I'm new to this and that's how it was when I bought it. I guess that needs replacing?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Good catch.
Was that a fish tales reference? Cause if not it should be. 
Quoted from PinballManiac40:OP, you can either just buy the game ROM for Judge Dredd
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/wpc.html
or you can get the game ROM with the Dead World mod
Here you can choose either the orange ring.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_8&products_id=135&zenid=51254bf4ff8cd9a956d35965d5cdf34d
or the red ring
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_8&products_id=136
Awesome. It's the CPROM chip right? Or the sound chip?
Quoted from PinRob:I mean is it fully seated - looks like it isn't fully pushed in on the right side -
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It definitely is not seated right. I'll try and fix it. Thank for the good catch.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Do you hear a 'dong' sound and it keeps repeating?
If so, I think you need to unplug your ribbon cables and plug them in again.
Really, I think you need new ribbon cables.
Even though the Fish Tales game ROM is in there, the game still should boot up and you should get something on the display (though you will see Fish Tales animations).
Until you get the correct JD game ROM, I suggest you disconnect the small 4" ribbon cable.
The wrong game ROM (Fish Tales) could do some harm to your game as it will activate the wrong coil or magnet and potentially burn something.
That's exactly what I hear. No animation on the dmd because the dmd controller board is fried. I still need to order a new one.
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image-977.jpgQuoted from PinballManiac40:The game ROM is on the MPU board (bottom left board with the batteries on it). This one needs to be replaced as mentioned.
The 8 ROMs on the sound board are labeled Judge Dredd so these are correct.
Oh good so it's the ten dollar chip as opposed to the $65 one. 
Quoted from PinballManiac40:oh, I thought you had another DMD controller board by now. Bummer.
Then yeah, no voltage getting there.
Yeah, so the constant beeping is like it is not booting properly.
Unplug that small (bottom left) ribbon cable and reseat the two ribbon cables at the top left at each connection.
I would have ordered it right up but I'm about 2 weeks out of the work that needs to be done so I figured I would wait another week. Thanks a lot for clearing all this up for me. It is much appreciated.
Quoted from balboarules:Am I the only one wondering WHY a Fish Tales rom is in there? I have a bad feeling this was a defective CPU that was laying around and tossed into this game..
Nooooooooooooooooooooo! I pray that's not the case. Aren't they pricey?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:oh, I thought you had another DMD controller board by now. Bummer.
Then yeah, no voltage getting there.
Yeah, so the constant beeping is like it is not booting properly.
Unplug that small (bottom left) ribbon cable and reseat the two ribbon cables at the top left at each connection.
Which ribbon cable should I disconnect?
image.jpgQuoted from PinballManiac40:The one at the bottom, 4" ribbon cable between the bottom two boards.
I disconnected that one and still had the same wierd sound.
Quoted from Firebaall:Is it too late or early to post this?
» YouTube video
Get that JD working!
Haha. That was awesome!!!
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Right. Keep it disconnected as I mentioned. Because you have the wrong game ROM (Fish Tales), this can turn on or lock on the wrong coil or magnet and do some damage.
Reseat the other two ribbon cable As in unplug and plug them in again at all the 6 connections. (4 connections on the top left ribbon cable and two connections on the top right cable coming out of the MPU.)
Also push on the big chip in the socket that is above the batteries on the MPU.
Ok. Got it. I'll give it a shot.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:In addition to the dong every so often?
No more dong just heartbeat.
Quoted from PinRob:Agree - DO NOT tear it down BEFORE you get it working properly. But it seems you may have started to do that already so now I don't know what to say.
Your probably right...but if you would have seen the shape of this thing. To say this machine needed a little work is the understatement of the century. Pretty much every spring under the playfield has to be replaced, also most every switch looks like it needs either replacing or cleaning, targets, etc. I figured I couldn't do much more damage to what was already there. I did take about 350 pictures so far as I took each part off, screw, and connecter. But I get what your saying.
Quoted from phillymadison:Is that how the topper was when you bought it? We were saying one of the plus's about this machine is it has the topper because you can see the feet in the ebay pics.
Yes it was already like that.
Quoted from PinRob:This isn't the one from Barry on EBay is it?
It is. Barry and Joe are good guys. Very easy to deal with.
Quoted from terryb:Considering the condition of the game I would start with getting the CPU to boot and then go from there. Get the correct EPROM installed--it should boot with the current one, but it's best to get that corrected.
Disconnect all of the ribbon cables on the CPU and power the game on. Monitor the status of the led's on the CPU when you power it on. They will tell you if the board has booted properly or not. At this point if it doesn't boot it is either the 5 volt supply (easy enough to test with a meter) or the CPU board itself.
Thank You Terry. I will definitely give that a try. I did order the correct EPROM and should have it by middle of next week.
It looks like the Mylar to the right of the Deadworld planet needs replacing. What thickness of Mylar should I put on there and does anyone recommend a good sight to buy it from?
Quoted from balboarules:If you have not all ready, go to great plains electronics and order the full set of ribbon cables, I am sure it has been mentioned, but just in case it was not.. they are cheap enough, and could be some of your problems as others have mentioned.
Will do. Thank you
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:I know where some cabinet decals are for $221 shipped, when you're ready pm me!
What??????? That is awesome!!!!! Most definitely will. Thanks.
And also been using a Dremel with a wire brush attachment to remove rust from metal parts. Been working out pretty well. If anyone has any other rust removing tips, please let me know. Got lots to get rid of. Thanks.
Quoted from PinRob:Did the machine get wet or something? After looking at the eBay pics it seemed to look as though the cabinet inside had gotten wet at some point.
Yes. My guess is it was a lightly used machine that was in a flooded basement where the water drained quickly and they just let it sit after the water cleared, instead of taking it apart and cleaning it up the right way. The reason I say the water dissipated quickly is because the playfield has zero water damage to it yet the wire ramps in the back have some rust on them.
Quoted from Cheddar:Save yourself the trouble and get some evaporust. Let it do the work for you
Never heard of it but I will try and pick some up....Home Depot?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:About time to edit the title of this thread since you are well into fixing it up!!
Woohoo!! Nothing like bringing a game back to life.
Judge Dredd will ride again.
Also, how do I change the title? Can it be done?
Quoted from Cheddar:Auto parts store. I got mine at O'Reilly
O O O ORielyyyyyyyyyyy...
Quoted from phillymadison:I bet someone didn't take it off to move/store the machine and it got smashed. Or the water leak weakened the floor above the eagle till it finally gave way and landed on the eagle.
I found mine at Planetary Pinball about a month ago. They had both in stock at the time but now they are both oos again. If you keep checking they might come back in stock. I also know there's a Australian part store that sells it for a ridiculously high price if you're desperate.
You might be onto something.
Australian part store costs a wing and a talon.
I watched the remake of the Judge Dredd movie on Netflix last night for some inspiration/motivation.
I thought it was awesome! And the chick who plays Anderson was smokin hot. Anyone else see it?
Quoted from legotech1:I marked it to favorites on xbmc but have not had time to see it as of yet. Glad it is one to watch. I also have a JD.
Yeah I had never seen the Sly Stalone version and heard it was not so good, so I watched the remake instead. I enjoyed it.. Plus Cersie and the dude from the Wire are in it so that was pretty cool.
Quoted from PinRob:I'd at least put Judge Dredd or JD in the thread title
Roger that.
Quoted from lordloss:One thing to note, when barry sells a game WITH boards, its a gurantee those boards are fucked and won't work.
Well that sux. I could have bought a fully working JD for the money I'm going to end up sinking into this machine. Especially if I have to replace the CPU board. 
Quoted from PinRob:You probably will end up spending more than you anticipated but who knows. I think the hours you spend on it are going to add up. I'm curious as to what you did get it for from Barry?
I'll pm ya.
Quoted from LesManley:That's what most people who buy games from barry eventually figure out. Now you know and knowing is half the battle.
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Nice. I loved the GI Joe cartoon.
Quoted from balboarules:Cpu should be able to be repaired.. If needed
I played Sopranos last night at a classic Arcade near my house for the first time. I loved it. Only problem was it wasn't maintained at all. Flippers we're weak and the machine was way off level. They had a descent collection of pins but not one of them played good at all. Very disappointing. Shame on them really. They had a Metallica pro that was so dirty , the playfield looked like it had dried up mud on it.
Guess the CPU is trashed too????? This just keeps getting better.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I must not be seeing what you're trying to point out on the sound and MPU boards.
Sound board has 8 sound ROMs so that looks correct as they are labeled Judge Dredd.
MPU looks just dirty, but I can't see any battery alkaline damage from the angles of the pictures.
Someone used wire instead of a zero ohm jumper. Looks bad, but still functional.
Did you get your 2 ribbon cables in yet and try them?
I was wondering if I put the sound roms in correctly as you confirmed. I didn't get new ribbon cables just tried the old ones. The CPU board is missing a bunch of pins in the connectors. That would certainly not let the machine boot up correctly right?
Quoted from PinRob:Did you get a DMD board yet? Did you get all new sound ROMs? If so why?
All new sound roms yes. Dmd board should be here tomorrow.
Quoted from Memphis777:Connectors are keyed by having the missing pins. I'm not looking at mine at the moment to directly compare, but I think your connectors are fine.
Really? That would be awesome if that were the case. If you get a minute could you compare? I would greatly appreciate it.
Quoted from PinRob:Why the new sound ROMs? I thought you had all of them already
A few of them were bad.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:How do you know that?
We determined on the first 2 pages you only needed to get a game ROM for the CPU board as it had the Fish Tales game ROM installed.
I sent them out to be checked. U2 had a broken pin and U3, U7 and U8 turned out to be bad. I did replace the FT rom also. I'll post some more pics
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image-971.jpgQuoted from PinballManiac40:Your U6 sound ROM looks like it may have the label on wrong, thus the ROM is backwards.
The notch looks like it is on the right side, whereas all the other sound ROMs are pointed to the left.
Please verify before applying power!!
Good catch. Your right. I'll flip it. TY.
Quoted from terryb:If you got the game roms this would be a good time to start testing the CPU (and power supply). The only connector you need is J210 to provide power to the board. You won't need ribbon cables at this point. Turn the game on and watch the led's on the CPU as the game boots up. Once you know the power supply and CPU are good then you can move on to adding more boards to the mix.
Terry, I am getting a solid bottom light and a fast blinking middle light apon your instruction. No top light.
image-596.jpgQuoted from PinballManiac40:You are making progress. That was a good idea having the sound ROMs tested.
MPU booted up ok. Did you hear just one "bong" sound?
Now you can connect up the ribbon cables and see if the MPU still boots up.
TY. I did hear the bong sound. Does that mean it booted correctly ?
The top and bottom LEDs came on at power and the top led went out after about 3 seconds to which the middle led started flashing while the bottom stayed steady lit. Hopefully that's clear.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Great. Just as I would expect.
I believe the single "bong" sound means the sound board booted up.
Time to connect the ribbon cables. Hopefully there will be no change in the LEDs during boot up.
Well since I know for sure the dmd board is bad should I not connect it?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:You want the DMD controller board connected via ribbon cables and power cable so you can tell it will keep the MPU from booting. No need to connect the DMD.
Did you buy or planning on buying a DMD controller board?
I bought it. It should be here tomorrow. Should I wait until I have it?
It seems like I get a different amount of bong sounds everytime I power the machine on. Now I wonder if the sound board is bad.
Hi guys, still waiting on the dot matrix board. Hopefully today , but I wanted some advice, should I clear coat the playfield or buy the Mylar they make for JD instead. Obviously a new clear coat is the better choice but that would mean I would have to buy a bigger compressor which I'm not really looking to do just to clear one playfield. I do already have a few spray guns because I use to paint cars about 15 years ago. Anyway , input is appreciated.
Quoted from balboarules:I hope your keeping a running dollar total on this project, would be curious to see how much it ended up costing all together for this game..
So far about $1200, and I still have about another $300 if I had to guess. But I'm looking at it as a really good learning experience. If I don't look at it that way, I would get to depressed.
Quoted from bigd1979:Is it need it? Usually jd playfields are pretty nice
The paint is pretty much perfect, it just is missing that shine. I've tried polishing it but it only helped a little. Plus I figured since I have it pretty much stripped, I might as well take advantage and do it right.
Quoted from bigd1979:Try treasure ove kit or something similar mine looks better than new since that
Oh cool. Would you mind posting a few pics?
Quoted from bigd1979:The mylar is original it also cleaned up well there are probably ovef a thousand games on it since
I found the Mylar kit for JD for a little over a hundred. I think I'm gonna go for it.
Quoted from PinRob:Agreed, treasure cove polish kit would have been the way to go. Whole playfield Mylar, why?
It seems like the factory clear is totally gone. I'll try and take a close pic and post.
Quoted from Major-Havoc:Did you take something to the playfield like a magic eraser? These playfields will never have that shine like a good clear coated one has. But you should be able to get a nice sheen if polished right.
No sir. I actually only used Novus and cheese cloth. But I think it sat so long with a layer of dust before I got it.
Quoted from balboarules:http://www.autogeek.net/sapphire-prewax-cleaner-840.html
Try this instead of Novus, I have done 12 games with it and it has worked fantastic, you put it on like a wax, let it dry, the wipe it off.. it will dry to a haze.. then a buff, then wax..
Thanks I will give it a try. Much appreciated.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Just as I mentioned on page 2. New ribbon cables definitely would be helpful if you reseat them and the DMD begins to work.
Can you measure the voltages at the power connector at the DMD and report what you see? I would like to see what the voltages are.
I have a multi meter. Where do I check? And what do I set it at ?
Quoted from Ronnie1114:I'd go for a new set of ribbon cables. Remember, they are 20 years old.
Do you think the dmd needs to be replaced? Or just try the ribbon cables first?
New ribbon cables and optos on their way. I also ordered all new coil sleeves , springs, and most of the coils just in case I run across any that are no good. I do still need flipper rebuild kit for all four flippers. I realized the ball shooter on the right side was missing so that needs to be ordered and I need playfield glass and legs. Anyone have any of these items they are looking to sell?
Quoted from balboarules:I thought you were going to order the new cables 2 weeks ago..
I must have forgotten. I was so focused on getting the boards ordered. I'm going to see if I can clean the inside of the ribbon cable connecters for the heck of it tonight. I'm replacing them anyway so it doesn't much matter if it makes them worse right?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Here is something else you can do. Remove the DMD out of JD and connect it up into Cue Ball Wizard to see if there are any lines out. I hope not. You only have 2 connectors so that is easy to do. Just make sure you hold the DMD by the edges or you will feel the high voltage.
In case there are lines out, might I suggest a ColorDMD!!!
http://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-for-judge-dredd-pinball-machine/
I have one installed and just waiting for the color ROM update on Friday.
I was wondering if I could try that and you just confirmed I can. I will do it.
Also I used the alcohol in the ends of the ribbon cables and then blew them out with the compressor and plugged them all back in. The display actually did get much cleaybut still had some lines going down it.
And yes if I end up needing a new display, I will definitely go for the color one. What the hell at this point might as well spend the extra dough.
Quoted from viperrwk:Vishay used to fix their displays. They don't do it anymore. Unless you know exactly what's wrong with it, the time and effort to track the problem down combined with the hassle of removing and replacing the glass isn't worth it.
If this is a job Vishay or Rob Anthony wouldn't do (not to say he couldn't), it's not a job for the OP.
viperrwk
I figured out where the issue is. WHen I get home later i'll post a few pics of what I think needs fixing. Problem is I'm not sure if this is fixable. Anyway, Mylar arrived today.
Quoted from terryb:If the pins are broken at the glass (a common failure) it is sometimes possible to repair the board. If you have replacement pins (which are unobtainable unless scrounged off an old board), and depending on where the break is, it's actually pretty easy. If not it takes a little skill and luck.
I see, thanks for the insight Terry.
Quoted from jasonp:That mylar is going to be a bitch to install if you have never done it before.
step 1 make sure playfeild is clean and wipe it down with a 90% rubbing alcohol.
step 2 mix a spray bottle with clean water 2 drops of baby shampoo and a capful of the alcohol.
step 3 spray a good mist on the mylar and apply to playfeild .. the fluid will let you adjust or pull it up if you need too.
step 4 press mylar with soft clean rag to press out any fluid and wipe up any fluid as well.
Any spots in mylar will disappear in a few days and mylar will stay put.
good luck ... dredd is a great game ... love me some super ball
Did you install it on your JD?
Quoted from balboarules:Why mylar a home use game? Most people tend to remove the mylar, if you keep it clean and waxed in a home use environment, it is really not worth the effort.
Actually, this Mylar just floats. There is no install. The ball guides , flipper bats, etc. hold it in place. It's pretty impressive how precise they cut this thing to fit. I'll take pics later.
Quoted from ksmmspt:Is it mylar? Or did you get an acrylic playfield overlay? I installed an acrylic overlay on my STTNG with great results. Looks similar to what you have there. BTW, you won't need the DMD board you just bought if you go with the ColorDMD...
I think your right, it's actually called a Playfield protecter.
That good news regarding the dmd board. I can sell it or keep it as a spare for future games.
Thanks for the info.
Quoted from jasonp:raleigh.craigslist.org link
Here you go
Thanks jason but bad news. My ceilings in the basement won't allow me to add a topper. Bummer right? I can barely fit the Hieght of the machines.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Maybe you can still buy it and find a place to mount it in the basement. It would be good to have a topper for resale in the future.
I was thinking that too. Wonder if the guy will ship it.
I got the new ribbon cables finally, took 11 day's, replaced the old cables and I'm still getting lines down the dmd display. Anyone have any idea why? Thanks.
Topper is on its way! If I keep the pins in the garage I can have the topper on it. Basement , no. Not crazy about keeping them in the garage. The rest of the parts are also on there way, as soon as the get here I can start putting Dredd back together.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I would reseat both of those new ribbon cables. Make sure you push them straight in. Allowing them to wiggle left and right as it is pushed in can cause bad connections.
I will give that a try. TYVM sir.
Quoted from Industen:Try pushing on some of the RAM chips on the board (machine off). Sometimes my DMD does this and all is well after.
On the CPU board?
Would some one mind measuring the lengh
Quoted from Industen:I created mine that way. Look in this thread for measurements
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/judge-dredd-shooter-lane-plastic-scan
Awesome. Thank you very much.
Quoted from phillymadison:Make a few to help fund this project. Seems like a bunch of us need a new one of it.
I will. I'll try to make as many as possible.
Quoted from terryb:If there's no diode on the coil, doesn't matter which way the wires are.
Thank you Terry. Much appreciated.
Quoted from phillymadison:Awesome let me know know when and how much. You'll have your money in minutes
Also this is probably one of my favorite threads on pinside right now. I'm really rooting for you.
Well thank you. Much appreciated. It's coming along nicely although I basically had to replace every little part on the machine but I hope it will be worth it in the end. Waiting on my last big shipment of parts then I can start slapping her back together. It should be here tomorrow so hopefully it gets here before the 2 feet of snow they are predicting.
My big shipment of parts in out on the delivery truck today BUT, they said they might possibly pull the drivers back in depending on how bad the snow gets. I'm praying they get to me before they get pulled. If i'm going to be snowed in for a few days, It would be awesome if I had a big box of parts to keep me occupied. Come on Fed Ex....You can do it!!!
Quoted from viperrwk:Keychain.
viperrwk
Sweet! That's what I figured. Thank you sir.
Does anyone know what I use to replace the rivets on the new ramp flaps? I bought all new ramp flaps.
Quoted from PinRob:Buy a rivet press $$$, send them to someone who has one $$, or use PinBits kit
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=72
That's the kit I got from pinbits. I bought the Judge Dredd ramp flaps kit and it came with that press less rivet kit but I'm not sure which way the bottom part of the rivet is supposed face and the white plastic tool is supposed to face. Hopefully they gave me extra in case I mess up a couple. I'm going to practice on the metal ramp first. This one in the picture.
image.jpgQuoted from terryb:Generally no. The pop rivets will typically interfere with the playfield since they have a higher profile than tubular rivets. There are other options besides the rivet press or rivet clips. Note the arbortime rivet tool referenced in the article below is no longer available.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/tools-and-supplies/128-pinball-rivet-tools
Thank You Terry. I'm glad I only drilled out the one metal ramp flap because I am having a hard enough time with that. I wouldn't want to practice on any of the plastic ramps. I'm going to give it another go tonight. Wish me luck!
Quoted from terryb:Just make sure you're not creating any heat when drilling rivets out of ramp flaps--the result will be the rivet/washer melting through the plastic. If the rivet/washer starts spinning you are creating major heat and need to try another technique. Go slow and cool the ramp with water if you're having trouble.
I'm really debating even messing with the plastic ramp flaps. I'm screwed if I end up breaking one. I was able to get the little metal ramp flap riveted but it took a descent amount of force to get it right. Here's what I just did to one of the plastic ramp flaps. What do you think? Should I do the others like this too?
Taped off the rest of the ramp and sprayed the flap with metallic paint.
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image-440.jpg<blockquote cite="#2211622"Did you clean and polish the ramps with Simple Green then Novus 2 - 1
I don't think painting the flaps is a good idea but did you at least sand them first - fine sandpaper?
I did simple green and Novus 2 to the ramps. As for the ramp flap, I didn't sand it but I did use the Dremel with a wire brush attachment. Took most of the rust off of it.
image.jpgQuoted from dmacy:Do you have any reason to come down to the Reading, Pa area? I'd be happy to rivet them if you drill your old ones out. Bring all you need done and have it if you'd like.
You selling any pins? I'm looking to buy one.
Quoted from terryb:I'm afraid your paint won't last very long in game play.
First you might look for someone local who has the riveting tools and experience. I'm sure someone would be glad to give you a hand.
Second choice would be to pick up a sheet of plastic at Home Depot and practice your drilling and riveting. Keep in mind though that doing a 20 year-old piece of plastic will always be more delicate.
Terry, your a genius. That's a great idea. I'm going to stop by the depot later.
Quoted from dmacy:Not at the moment. Actually looking for an AC/DC. But you're welcome to come and play.
Oh cool. Well I'm going to give Terry's idea a try and if I think I can do the plastic ramps, I'll try it. If I don't think I can do it without causing damage, I will certainly take you up on that offer. Much appreciated. You have a nice collection btw.
I plugged her in last night because I had taken apart the coin door menu and volume control to clean it, and when I ran through the menu I am getting a message that says "Sound Board interface error. Does anyone know what they mean by that? Is the sound board bad or is it maybe a bad connection?
BTW I do not get any volume through the speakers. The subwoofer is not connected because I removed it and am waiting on the replacement which should be arriving any day now.
Quoted from terryb:Check ribbon cables and check the proms for bent pins.
Thanks Terry. I just remembered I cut the cable to the left speaker on the backbox also because it was beating super fast everytime I turned the machine on and I figured I'd fix it later. The error message wouldn't be connected to that at all right? Plus the sub is missing.
Poor broken Eagle, you can tell he's jealous of new way cooler eagle as he watches from the wall. Remembering he was once like new way cooler eagle.... But that was long ago. 
Quoted from PinballManiac40:What did you just purchase?
No Fear. Shopping it now. Should be done tonight.
image.jpgQuoted from Elevatorman:Fun game!Looks good.
Thank you.
Quoted from phillymadison:So what still needs to be done on Broken Eagle to get it resurrected?
I rebuild all th poppers, diverter, planet assembly and crane assembly. Just need to rebuild the flippers but I used three of the rebuild kits on the No Fear so know I have to order 3 more for the JD. Then I need to replace about 20 light sockets throughout the machine. That's tedious so I'm kind of not looking forward to that. Once that is done I can start putting her back together.
Also rebuilt the drop target assembly. And both ball shooters.
Was able to test the planet assembly and it works like a charm!! The crane motor... Not so much. Another $90 out the window. As soon as it arrives I can officially start reassembling her. Also bought another semi populated playfield with a bunch of little parts I needed cheap from a fellow pinsider.
Replaced the fuse holder last night because the old one was cracked real bad, so I temporarily had an inline fuse holder in the machine and everything powered on fine. Now after replacing the old and inline fuse holder with a new one, I can't get the machine to boot up. It is getting power to the back box because the LEDs on the boards are lit but just not blinking correctly. HELP please. Ty
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Did you ever install the new ribbon cables? If not, it is time to do so.
If you did, then disconnect them to see if the MPU boots up then connect them again.
I did install all new ribbon cables. Question, I am re soldering in all new light fixtures that come up through the playfield and have one half done right now, would that have anything to do with why the machine will not boot? Thanx
Quoted from balboarules:So, what is the running cost on Project Eagle so far?
Oh man. You don't wanna know. Too much.
Let's put it this way, I could have bought a fully were working mint condition Judge dredd for what I've put into it
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I don't see that being possible. What else did you do in between the last time you turned on the game (and it booted up) until the time you had started changing lamp sockets?
Clean this.
image.jpgQuoted from terryb:Double and triple check the solder work--make sure you didn't lift a trace or destroy a through-hole.
What are the led's doing? Also try this with the ribbons disconnected, as PinballManiac suggested, and see what happens.
Sorry, but I'm too lazy to read back through the thread, didn't you have booting problems before?
I had an issue with the sound board booting up properly but we resolved it after I installed new roms. Other than that it booted up fine.
Quoted from terryb:I would say likely. Get an ASIC puller and yank the chip and put it back in. While you have it out make sure all the pins are in good shape.
Will do. TY Terry.
Quoted from phillymadison:I know you spent a lot already, this might save you a few bucks on the ASIC puller
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/removing-your-bios-chip.47068/
Thank you , I'll check it out. I did order the ic puller already. It was only $5. The total is at 3 right now and I still need to get a new dmd display and cabinet decals. That's another $400 for both if I don't go with a color display.
Considering the ebay post said it was missing a couple flipper coils and the driver board, I definitely spent more than I thought I would. But you live and learn. And I definitely learned.
Quoted from bigd1979:I mean thats not horrible but yea u cld of bought my mint one with lots mods for 2650 but u gained alot of knowledge and knowhow which sometimes is worth more and u will appreciate the pin alot more now, i have did the same thing before but u will make it up on the next
I couldn't agree more. I learned so much from working on this pin ,and so much from you guys helping and teaching me whats what. And to my defense, I could have skimped and not replaced certain things and saved a few hundred, but I figured since I spent way more than I originally thought I would, I might as well do things right and have most of the parts new or rebuilt. Right now I am replacing most of the light sockets under the playfield. Most of them work fine but look rusty, so I really don't need to change them but it would bother me knowing I left them that way when I could have replaced them.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:RampShot11, I recall you doing a test on the DMD in JD after you had received the new ribbon cables. Did you test out the DMD in your No Fear to see if it still has some solid vertical lines that stay on? I would do that before just ordering a new DMD. There is a chance that what you were seeing yesterday with the boot up issue being cleared up with pushing on the ASIC chip, that this could be causing the lines on the DMD as well.
Yes I tested It on my Cue Ball and the lines were gone but the last 3 lines of display were burnt out. What's wierd is that when your in the test mode, there are no vertical lines missing but when the game is in attract mode they are everywhere and when "super game" is supposed to be on the screen it's not. You just see the outline of it. Very strange.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I have a ColorDMD installed in my JD and set for the high res setting. Damn, it is looks kick ass.
I know I really do want to get the color dmd, plus someone told me I could sell the dmd board which is brand new. Is that true?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:You can use your old DMD controller board that has the bad voltages with the ColorDMD. No problem. It just needs the logic section working.
So yes, you could sell the new DMD controller board.
That's good to know. Ty.
What a pita it is re soldering in all new light sockets under the playfield. Only 15 more to go. Yay!! 
Quoted from phillymadison:15 is better than 16
Very true.
I'm not the best solderer to begin with , and soldering light sockets in awkward positions and angles sucks really bad. This is one thing about this hobby I do NOT like. Ok, I'll stop crying now and get back to work.
Please help. I need some pointers in soldering. I'm soooooooooooo bad. Should I be using flux before soldering the wires?
Quoted from terryb:I only use additional flux when desoldering. The solder contains flux so that is typically all you need when soldering. If you want to get better, here ya go:
Wow. This is great. Once again , Thank you Terry.
I can't understand why I am getting lines down the dmd display ONLY during attract mode. I have a brand new dmd board and brand new ribbon cables. It's driving me banana's.
BTW, I received my ASIC puller and pulled the chip off the CPU. It did have 2 bent pins that I carefully bent back into place. Clean the chip up with some alcohol , cleaned the socket with some alcohol too. Popped the chip back in carefully, and the machine booted up perfectly. I actually tried it 3 or 4 times last night and it booted up perfectly every time.
One new issue i'm having is during the test menu mode, the right side "extra ball" button and the Starburst flipper button light up fine but not the left side buttons (super game, start, and other Starburst flipper button). But when I press the Escape button to send the game into attract mode, all the left side buttons light up and the right side buttons go out. This never happened before.
Update: got the problem with the buttons on the front part of the cab fixed, but the right side starburst flipper button won't light. I tried a few different bulbs that I know are working but it won't light. I'm pretty sure it functions but will not light. Anyone have a suggestion to get it lighting up again? It looks of inside.
Btw: I am officially the worst solderer in the world.
Quoted from Industen:Check for voltage and continuity at the lamp with a multimeter. You may have a bad socket or broken wire. Also work on your solder skills Using flux will help you out. Also always "tin" the wire on the end and put solder on the lug. Then hold the wire to the lug and add heat with the iron.
Please explain "tin" the wire. Ty.
Quoted from PinRob:Tinning
Whatever it is you are soldering, you should 'tin' both contacts before you attempt to solder them. This coats or fills the wires or connector contacts with solder so you can easily melt them together.
To tin a wire, apply the tip of your iron to the wire for a second or two, then apply the solder to the wire. The solder should flow freely onto the wire and coat it (if it's stranded wire the solder should flow into it, and fill the wire). You may need to snip the end off afterwards, particularly if you have put a little too much solder on and it has formed a little ball at the end of the wire.
Be careful not to overheat the wire, as the insulation will start to melt. On cheaper cable the insulation can 'shrink back' if heated too much, and expose more copper core that you intended. You can cut the wire back after you have tinned it, but it's best simply not to over heat it.
Thanks for your quick response. That makes a lot of sense. I was noticing when I tried to solder 2 wires to the coil lug, the solder would just fly off the wire. It is super frustrating.
I'm going to give the tinning a try later and let you know how I made out.
Much better after tinning the wires. I also notices if I add a little flux to each part being soldered, everything seems to bind much easier. So, in short, a little progress. Still for from being good at it though.
Quoted from Gerrard17:I'm currently shopping out my JD also and am wondering what to do with the metal leading onto the ramps. I don't want to rivet the new metal back on so was thinking about drilling out the current rivets and cutting the new metal and going Gottlieb style on them and adding an extra bit to the metal I cut to screw it to the closest post and not actually attaching it to the ramp.
Honestly, I chickened out on replacing the ramp flaps on the plastic ramps. I had a really hard time riveting the new ramp flap onto the metal ramp where the ball launch is. I bought a new ramp flap kit from pinbits but after struggling with the metal ramp, I was to afraid of ruining any of the 3 plastic ramps.
Your idea is actually not bad. I'm just wondering if when you tighten the screws down, will the flaps sit right onto the playfield? Please let me know you make out. Sorry I couldnt be more help.
Quoted from Gerrard17:I had only shopped Gottliebs to this point and when I had taken off all the ramps I was like what the !*^!? is this!? I've got a few sheets on the metals so i'll cut it to shape for the JD ramps. In doing ramps on the Gottliebs the metal is very thin and lies perfectly against the playfield and the plastic so I might give it a shot on the air raid ramp first to minimalize the effect should there be issues. I'll post a pic once I'm done.
Good luck ! Good idea starting with that ramp. It's a little easier to get hold of that ramp should you accidentally break it. Will be waiting for pics.
Got much better at soldering lately. I realized I wasn't heating up the lug enough, I was only heating up the solder itself. Also putting flux on each piece being soldered definitely helped. Tinning helped also. Started putting the parts backin under the playfield. Should be all done by the end of this weekend. Wish me luck. I will post results and pics.
Quoted from phillymadison:Awesome can't wait. Take pictures.
I just took mt JD out of storage (Promised myself I wouldn't buy it till March but got a really good deal in Nov lol)
So I'm fine tuning mine now before I put it with the rest.
Your thread and others gave me a lot of insight on what might go wrong
Also nice to see your machines progress since for a hot minute I was thinking about getting it when it was on ebay.
Awesome. Do you love JD? I'm excited to play it.
Would someone take a pic of the wiring for the lower left and lower right flipper coils so I can solder them in right? Would be much appreciated.
Quoted from zaza:Not verified, from the manual :
coil wire color edit.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
That seems correct. Thank you so much. I appreciate it big time.
Quoted from terryb:You and those cool graphics--you kill me.
Terry, are you going to the Allentown show ? If so I would like to shake your hand for all the help so far. And that also goes for anyone else who has helped me with this project.
Got all the Sublime CDs on repeat and am cruising through finishing up this pin. Might be done tonight. Hopefully I didn't jinx myself. 
Quoted from terryb:Afraid not, long drive from CA.
I hear ya. Maybe next year.
Just installed all new flipper rebuild kits and all new EOS switches and still getting right flipper EOS switch stuck closed. In the switch test that switch would not register at all. Any ideas what I should look into ?
Quoted from terryb:Do a factory reset.
That's in the Utilities menu right?
No good on the factory reset. Still getting R. Flipper EOS switch stuck closed error and Sound Board Interface error. Getting the one Bong sound which tells me the sound board booted up correctly but I can't get any speech or sound out of the speakers. This is very frustrating. Should I be looking at the Fliptronic 2 board for the stuck EOS switch?
Quoted from zaza:Yes, disconnect J906 during switch edges test and see if F1 opens.
FT2-J906.jpg
You sir are the king of cool graphics! I will give that a try as soon as I get home. If I unplug that connection and the eos switch is now open, then I might have a problem with the Fliptronic board yes?
Quoted from zaza:If it opens (in switch test) after disconnecting, the problem is in the wiring or the EOS-switch is indeed closed.
The EOS is normally open but the software reads now a closed EOS during startup.
Somewhere the BLK-GRN wire is connected to GND.
If it stays closed (in switch test) after disconnecting J906, the FliptronicBoard has a problem.
Whats strange is I remember the EOS right flipper error message before I started putting the new flippers in. There was nothing connected to the right flipper eos switch wires and the error message was showing up.
Quoted from o-din:One of the Dredds I owned once was a real beater. When I was done bringing it back to life, I felt like a real expert on repairing that particular machine.
Wanna trade? 
Quoted from zaza:Then disconnecting J906 is a perfect start to find out in which direction to search.
Yes. Thanks for your help ZaZa . Much appreciated. I will report back my findings soon.
Unplugged connection J906 and sure enough the EOS error was still there.i'm going to post pictures of the board I think a chip is missing. It might have something to do with the error message.
I was able to get the sound interface error message to go away reseating the ribbon cable that connects to it but still do not get any speech or music out of the game
Quoted from zaza:I would first check the Tip36 and Tip102 transistors for a short.
Thank you. I will try it when I head home at lunch.
Zaza, If i am supposed to get those reading you have on the diagram, then this board is shot because i am getting all sorts of different numbers , especially on Q5-Q12.
Quoted from zaza:Not exactly the same but close to it, Q5-Q12 reads somewhere between 430 and 470 mV
Was it very different ? No short ?
Very different. I'll do it again and record each one.
Quoted from robotron911:Dude, I give you all the credit in the world. You are clearly over your head on a lot of this repair stuff, particularly the board/electrical repair. It's not stopping you one bit and by the time you are done you will have developed a ton of repair skills! Most folks wouldn't have the balls to just jump headfirst into a project like this. Best of luck to you!
Thanks. I'm learning as I go. All the pinsiders said they would help me through the restore so it gave me a lot of confidence I otherwise wouldn't have. It's definitely teaching me so much. Although I could have bought 2 JD's for what I've put into this one. The learning experience is priceless in my opinion.
Quoted from terryb:Glad to help a guy who's willing to learn on the run, but also willing to admit what he doesn't know.
The knowledge you are gaining is well worth the investment.
And you have definitely helped big time. I appreciate it a lot.
Couldn't the fact that I am missing the U6 chip on the fliptronic board be causing the error message?
I ordered a new fliptronic 2 board just in case. And I also ordered the missing U6 chip.
Quoted from zaza:No, but do you know when F3 blew ? was it on startup or when testing the flippers ?
Never tested the flippers yet. I don't have the flipper boards installed at this time.
Quoted from RampShot11:Never tested the flippers yet. I don't have the flipper boards installed at this time.
It might have been blown from when I purchased the game. I'll have to go through my pictures and see if I can zoom in and spot if the fuse was already blown.
Quoted from zaza:Better concentrate on the EOS problem alone then, you ordered the LM339 already so lets see what happens after installing it/them.
Ok sounds good. I also ordered a new Fliptronic board too. I guess trying the new LM339's first before swapping out the board is the best option right?
Does anyone know how to test the soundboard. I looked up or move the speakers and still cannot get any sound yet the soundboard boots up properly. Thanks in advance for any help.
I meant to say I hooked up all new speakers and still do not get any sound at all. Even in the speech and music test... Nothing. Board boots properly and I have all new sound roms in it.
No. Just sold the No Fear. If I have to buy a new sound board I'm gonna be pissed. That will mean the only board I didn't have to replace is the CPU. Every other board had to be replaced because they were bad.
Is there any way to test the sound board with a multimeter?
Quoted from bigd1979:Dang that sticks also the sound boards are hard to find ,I think u can replace the amps if that is the issue . Im sure there is a way to test it but someone else wld have to jump in bc it sounds like its working fine just no sound coming out . The one bong is just to know it booted properly but not necessarily working properly .hmmmm...
I know , I was doing a search for the sound board and it is very hard to find.
Quoted from phillymadison:Aww that blows. Why did you sell No Fear? Hopefully not to fund Broken Eagle
No, honestly I was not crazy about it and am looking to pick up something new. It looks really cool but the gameplay was a little boring for me. I was going to pick up something else right away but I figured I should wait until I finished the JD.
Quoted from Gerrard17:I'll keep an eye out for you. I just got some lamp boards, only needed the main big one for the felony level so if you find out you need any of these let me know.
$_57.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Wow, I really appreciate the offer. I think the only one I sort of need is the big lamp board also. I have one chain that will not light, can't remember which one it is right now.
Also , I have a bunch of spare parts for the JD too, if you need anything let me know , I'd be glad to help.
Quoted from bigd1979:I may be able to find one if u end up needing one . Also try to find out before Allentown bc im sure we can find one there if it comes to that but expect to pay 150 to 200
Yes please, I'll take one if you can find it for me. Thanks for the help.
Quoted from bigd1979:Just bc it boots proper the amps may be fried whats the back looknlike ?
The back of the board looks good. Doesn't look like anything is burnt or even been worked on at all. I wish I new what to test so I could try to figure out whats wrong with it and possibly attempt to repair it.
Notice I said "attempt" to repair it. 
Quoted from phillymadison:That might be as simple as changing out the diode to the chain link bulb that doesn't light. Probably don't need a whole new board.
I hope your right. Whats weird is, if I take a 9 volt battery and test the board with it and 2 wires, I can get every bulb to light. But when it is in the game and I test the board, the one chain just will not light.
It's the Battle Tank link.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I see a broken solder joint on pin 1 of your lamp board on the far right in your picture when I blow it up. I can't tell about the other pins thought. Desolder all the pins and then resolder. I suggest you do this to all the lamp boards while you have them out and cleaning them.
Ok thank you for the tip. I will do that. Yes now I can finally start putting her back together. Finally I caught a break.
Quoted from bigd1979:Well everything does pass through the fliptronics board
True. It makes more sense now. Told my wife not to wait up for me tonight. Gonna be working on the Dredd all night.
Quoted from bigd1979:I tell mine that every night pretty much lol
Lol. I hear ya. My wife told me she can't wait until the Dredd is done so she can get her husband back... Little does she know I'm buying another pin as soon as the Dredd is done. Lol
Quoted from bigd1979:Plastic is nice u sld of printed a decal or sticker for It
Yeah I do plan on doing it that way soon.
Quoted from bigd1979:U have her together yet? Im glad im not the only one up all hours lol i wax just playing my demoman a few last times and tweaking it for new owner .However im picking up eatpm tomorrow speaking of which I sld get to bed need leave early lol
Not done yet but getting there. I should have her done by tomorrow night.
Congrats on the sale and purchase of eatpm. They are both really cool machines.
Quoted from bigd1979:I have a serious problem buying pins and rebuilding them then tradeing or selling them lol
Lol. Hey ,it could be worse. If it were solely my decision , I'd have ten machines by now. I like your collection btw. Most of your collection are on my wish list.
Quoted from jasonp:Any signs shop can make that piece for you ... Or make a clear printed vinyl sticker to put on the acrylic.
Thanks for the tip, I have a sign shop right around the corner from my office. I'm gonna contact them on Monday.
Ran the switch test and everything seems to work except the lower left extra ball target and the captive ball stand target. But I believe they are connected so I'll try switch the lower target out first and see if that helps.
Quoted from terryb:If they're in the same column or row it's most likely a broken wire. Even if a switch doesn't work it won't affect the next switch. Check the switch matrix and then go from there.
I believe they are in the same column. I'll check when I get home. The strange thing is both targets test good with a multimeter. But not good in the switch test.
Switched out the lower left extra ball stand target and know that works fine. Switched out the captive ball target and still get nothing. Failed on the switch test. Should I try taking the target out, leave the wires bare and touch them together during the switch test to see if the signal is getting back to the CPU ?
Ok, if anyone can help, this is what I did to test the wires going to the captive ball target. Traced the green-blue wire back to the Opto SW-7 P.C.B board and put the meter on the front lug of the target and tested the connecter to the sw-7 board to the green-blue wire and pressed the target, I got a good reading. Then reconnected it and traced it back to the CPU , pulled off the connecter and tested to the green-blue pin and also got a good reading. But still in the switch test the target is dead when pressed. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Quoted from terryb:There's a row and a column wire, either one could cause the problem. Grn-blu is the column and wht-gry is the row, so check the wht-gry wire for continuity from the switch to the board.
Ok will do. Thank you Terry.
Quoted from terryb:So you've got continuity on the wht-gry wire from captive ball 3 to J209-9 and continuity from grn-blu wire from captive ball 3 to J207-6 and you've replaced the switch?
Have you checked the diode, you can check it in circuit. Null in one direction and .4-.7 in the other (DMM in diode/continuity mode).
I haven't checked it yet. I will give it a try. Thanks.
Tested the diode, got null one way and 680 the other. Tested also a known working target diode and get the same readings.
Quoted from terryb:If you jumper across the switch with a wire does it register?
I'll try it. The first 2 prongs on the target right ?
Quoted from RampShot11:I'll try it. The first 2 prongs on the target right ?
No it does not register.
Yes your statement at the end is correct.
One green/blue going to the middle lug and 2 white/grays going to the end or back lug.
Quoted from terryb:I would suspect you have a weak connection on J207-6. Tug lightly on the wire and see if it comes loose. Inspect the connector pins (male and female) and clean with some DeOxit.
Ok. I'll give it a try. Thanks.
No good. Connections seemed fine, I used contact cleaner anyway but still no good. Should I pull the CPU out and inspect the back of J207?
Quoted from bigd1979:If the captive ball target switch is the only thing not working I think id just get everything together and play bc its pretty dang rare to ever hit the captive at all let alone hard enough to hit the target switch lol.
I have a few more round targets, I think I'm going to try changing it out one more time and pray for miracle.
Quoted from RampShot11:I have a few more round targets, I think I'm going to try changing it out one more time and pray for miracle.
Still no good with the new target. Pulled the CPU board out and will inspect it for any damaged connections.
The connectors look like the wires punch down into the back. I do have a punch down tool. I don't have a IDC insertion tool though.
I tested each wire from the target to the back of the CPU board to the corresponding pin and I get good continuity.
It's gotta be something past the pins on the CPU board right? Would a bad transistor or resistor be the cause ?
Or the corresponding lm339 chip be the issue? I have a couple spares I could try. I think it goes to U19 & U20 on the CPU.
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Matawan, NJ