Judge Dredd
Bally, 1993Quoted from RampShot11:What do you guys think? I think I finally have it pretty fine tuned after a few trial and error attempts. I'm picking up a scroll saw tommorow so I will be able to cut the shape of the plastic pretty much perfect. This one was done free hand with a multi saw. Whoever is happy let me know, I'll start making for each.
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
You know I'm in for one 
Quoted from Cheddar:It looks great.
Thanks, and the ones I send you guys will look way better. Like I said, I finally realized what to do differently after about 3 failed attempts. I'll have them sent out to you guys before the weeks end. No guarantee of course but very likely.
Quoted from bigd1979:Are the spekers wired correctly?
I think so because everything was working fine for the first few days and then all of a sudden the one channel started machine gunning.
Quoted from RampShot11:I think so because everything was working fine for the first few days and then all of a sudden the one channel started machine gunning.
Is it have alll the correct speakers ? I believe all 3 sld be 4ohm and so the amp dont overload need to be wired correctly and 4ohm ?
Quoted from bigd1979:Is it have alll the correct speakers ? I believe all 3 sld be 4ohm and so the amp dont overload need to be wired correctly and 4ohm ?
Yes all are 4 ohm speakers. Only the 5.25 in the backbox panel is an after market speaker. But it wattage and ohms are exact to the original that was in there.
Quoted from bigd1979:Even know you probably dont need them here some pictures. Is the sub buzzing also now? One channel is for backbix and other is for cab speake.20150513_202913.jpg (Click image to enlarge)20150513_202917.jpg (Click image to enlarge)20150513_203020.jpg (Click image to enlarge)20150513_203024.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Thanks Big D. Yes the sub channel was fine until I switched the cap out just now. Thanks for the pics.
Also, if I switched connecters and put the panel speakers on the sub channel, they worked fine so I think the speakers are fine.
Quoted from RampShot11:Thanks Big D. Yes the sub channel was fine until I switched the cap out just now. Thanks for the pics.
Also, if I switched connecters and put the panel speakers on the sub channel, they worked fine so I think the speakers are fine.
Yea man just wanted make sure you had everything right before you started doing things it didn't need.you will be a professional after this pin for sure. I had a pin like this and I learned on it and things are much easier now.if I can help in any way let me know
Quoted from bigd1979:Yea man just wanted make sure you had everything right before you started doing things it didn't need.you will be a professional after this pin for sure. I had a pin like this and I learned on it and things are much easier now.if I can help in any way let me know
Can I have your sound board? 
Quoted from terryb:You'll have to check the through-holes and traces with a meter, can't tell much by looking at the cap.
Can you step me through the process? I know it's asking a lot. But it would be much appreciated.
Quoted from RampShot11:Can I have your sound board?
If I had other pins with dcs sound board id let you borrow it but jd is my only one other than congo but its totally different. I can only play one at a time lol.i wish I would have bought the extras a while back .you will get it fixed sounds like your on the correct track
Meter in diode/continuity mode. First check the through-holes. Red lead on one side of the board and black on the other. Do not touch the probe leads to the capacitor lead (if it's installed). Just touch to the pad on each side.
For the traces check the schematic and see where the trace from each lead of the cap runs to (sometimes there are traces on both sides, so check that). Again meter in diode/continuity and test from the capacitor lead to the next component. Rinse and repeat for the other lead.
Thanks Terry. Wish I had a buck for every time I said that throughout this project.
I'll give that a try.
But just to make sure I put the original cap back in and I got the sub woofer channel back clean. Still have the same bad static on the original issue with the panel speakers so I'm guessing I did pull the through holes out with the original cap. Can I buy through holes at the electronics store? I found an amazing electronics store by my job. They have everything.
Quoted from bigd1979:If I had other pins with dcs sound board id let you borrow it but jd is my only one other than congo but its totally different. I can only play one at a time lol.i wish I would have bought the extras a while back .you will get it fixed sounds like your on the correct track
I got ya. Btw your jd looks super clean from what I can tell from the pics. Good stuff.
Quoted from RampShot11:But just to make sure I put the original cap back in and I got the sub woofer channel back clean.
That sounds like the new cap might have been bad rather than a through-hole issue. It's also possible you were able to make a connection with the old cap that was open with the new cap. It does appear the newer cap has smaller leads.
Where did you get the new cap?
Quoted from RampShot11:I got ya. Btw your jd looks super clean from what I can tell from the pics. Good stuff.
Yea its all matching numbers if you care about that stuff and is about as nice of a pin as they come . New ramps and pretty much everything that was damaged or had a mark on it
Quoted from terryb:That sounds like the new cap might have been bad rather than a through-hole issue. It's also possible you were able to make a connection with the old cap that was open with the new cap. It does appear the newer cap has smaller leads.
Where did you get the new cap?
The new electronics store by my job. I actually bought 2 new caps. Should I try the other one?
There's no accurate way of testing a cap other than an ESR meter. You can do the diode/continuity test as a very rough equivelant just to make sure you don't have a short. You can also watch the cap charge and then level out, but that's another story...
Yes, you could try the other cap. Be aware every time you solder the joint you continue to weaken things and are more apt to have future problems when soldering.
When I test the cap like pictured above, I watch it clump to 2k then stop, I reverse the Leeds and watch it drop back down to zero.
Quoted from RampShot11:When I test the cap like pictured above, I watch it clump to 2k then stop, I reverse the Leeds and watch it drop back down to zero.
Not as definitive as an ESR meter, but that's pretty much what you should see.
Quoted from terryb:Not as definitive as an ESR meter, but that's pretty much what you should see.
I think I fig out what is causing the static on the one channel. When I replaced the amp for that channel, I pulled 2 of the 5 through holes out with it. When I rock the amp back and forth , the static seems to clean up, so I think a few of the legs are not making a clean enough connection. I'm going to the electronics store to see if they sell a through hole repair kit.
Quoted from RampShot11:I think I fig out what is causing the static on the one channel. When I replaced the amp for that channel, I pulled 2 of the 5 through holes out with it. When I rock the amp back and forth , the static seems to clean up, so I think a few of the legs are not making a clean enough connection. I'm going to the electronics store to see if they sell a through hole repair kit.
Thata do it sir I hope u get it figured out u deserve a nice working pin after all this
Here's some info on the tools and techniques for through-hole repair:
Unless it's a pretty good sized electronics store I doubt if they will carry the tools/consumables you need for the eyelet technique. You could also just use the stitch method describe in the link above. Not as pretty, but it works.
Quoted from bigd1979:Thata do it sir I hope u get it figured out u deserve a nice working pin after all this
Thanks dude. Appreciate the kind words
Quoted from terryb:Here's some info on the tools and techniques for through-hole repair:
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/230-repairing-plated-through-holes
Unless it's a pretty good sized electronics store I doubt if they will carry the tools/consumables you need for the eyelet technique. You could also just use the stitch method describe in the link above. Not as pretty, but it works.
You were right, their in house tech told me to also use the stitch method. I'm gonna give it a shot.
Quoted from phillymadison:Just wanted show the before and after of the reproduced shooter lane plastic
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Before
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
And after. Looks even better in person.
Definitely different but it looks nice and helps lots of people out on this impossible plastic to find good job op
Quoted from phillymadison:Just wanted show the before and after of the reproduced shooter lane plastic
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Before
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
And after. Looks even better in person.
Awesome!!! I'm glad you like it, that yellow is really hard to duplicate but it is pretty close. I have about ten more to do and i've been so busy, I'm having a hard time finding the time, but I'll get them done as soon as possible. 
Hey RampShot! As a relatively new JD owner, I just plowed through your entire restoration thread. Awesome to see such an underrated game brought back to life. One thing I just learned is that my JD doesn't even have the launcher plastic you reproduced! I didn't even know there was supposed to be something there. What can I do to get one of your awesome repro plastics?
Thanks again for a riveting thread!
Quoted from squaresville:Hey RampShot! As a relatively new JD owner, I just plowed through your entire restoration thread. Awesome to see such an underrated game brought back to life. One thing I just learned is that my JD doesn't even have the launcher plastic you reproduced! I didn't even know there was supposed to be something there. What can I do to get one of your awesome repro plastics?
Thanks again for a riveting thread!
No problem. Glad you liked the thread. What an underrated game right? Well I am behind on about 15 shooter lane plastics so I will gladly add you to the list.
Grr, my shooter plastic is also broken. At first I couldn't find out why and how it happened, as I was always careful, but then I glued it back on and one time I wanted to raise the playfield, and the plastic just snapped off when resting against the head. D'oh, what a design flaw.
I don't need to be on the list for a replacement, just getting this out there 
Quoted from FreeBee:Grr, my shooter plastic is also broken. At first I couldn't find out why and how it happened, as I was always careful, but then I glued it back on and one time I wanted to raise the playfield, and the plastic just snapped off when resting against the head. D'oh, what a design flaw.
I don't need to be on the list for a replacement, just getting this out there
I feel your pain. I always thought because the ball trough shot the ball into the shooter lane so hard that that was was broke all the shooter plastics, but your explanation makes sense also. Anyway, huge design flaw and I wish they were easier to make or someone with professional equipment would make it. Many JD owners would be happy.
Sorry Industen, I've been dragging azz lately. I won't send them if they are not as close to perfect as I can get them and it is a bitch to get them perfect. I promise I'll try to get them out quicker.
Quoted from RampShot11:No problem. Glad you liked the thread. What an underrated game right? Well I am behind on about 15 shooter lane plastics so I will gladly add you to the list.
Thank you so much for the consideration!
Also, to everyone: has anyone seen a place to purchase the metal spacers between the two Deadworld layers? My Dredd came with them just flat together so the balls just rolled out. I have vinyl spacers there for now but would like to find the proper part. I Googled around for 02-4890 but haven't come up with anything yet.
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