That much corrosion is probably going to insolve some desoldering and board work. Rottendog makes a nice replacement if you want to go that far: http://rottendog.us/MPU089.html . An original board will be cheaper if you can find one. The part number should be in your manual

the stuff that's corroded doesn't actually have to do with the memory, it's mostly switch input. It'd probably be feasible to just remove the battery holder and install a new remote battery holder if you're at all comfortable with soldering, and you'd have a pretty good chance at your board working. The corrosion can be neutralized using white vinegar, etc, there are some guides around. That won't get inside the components though if it's gotten that far.

Another board gone.....just get a new one as that one will be forever compromised

Your switch input wired connectors likely need to be repined based on how much damage I see there. Unplug J205, J212, J206/J207, and J208/J209 at the bottom of the board and J210 on the right side. Can you take some pictures of these disconnected?

I hope you have some good luck with it. Bought it through Ebay?

Yeah, time to replace that one if you want long term reliable game play. Otherwise, you are going to go through cleaning, replacing components, etc, and even if you get if fully working, a month later crap is just going to start happening.

granny's little horror house, YOU'VE JUST BEEN SCREWED!

This board is not economically feasible to repair; not that it can't be repaired, it just would cost more to fix than it would to replace the board. If you love to solder and are on a budget, please take a look at the following post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twobits-wpc-mpu-complete-assembly#post-3487446

If you get with Duracell, they will provide some warranty coverage for your damaged board; the bad part of this is you have to send them the board with the batteries installed. If you do this, I would remove everything removable (ASIC, CPU, ROM) from the board before sending it in as the ASIC chip alone will likely cost more to replace than you receive in reimbursement.

something tells me those are not rhe original batteries that leaked.

Oh yeah, you are right. Now that I'm looking at the batteries it looks like they were recently installed.

I would replace that board. Good thing there is an alternative to Rottendog for the WPC boards. This is fully populated and tested board from twobits. Just mention what game it is for upon check out and it will come with the game ROM too. http://www.twobits.com/WPC/

I smell a PayPus chargeback coming.............."item supplied was faulty/didn't match description etc"

I got my Judge Dredd from eBay also and it too had major battery acid damaged MPU so I can relate. Game was stated as fully working but the damage made the start button (so couldn't play a game) and volume controls not work. I didn't have to get eBay or pay pal involved but I did have to call the seller and demand some kind of fix. He asked me to sell the damaged board on eBay (sold for $40 to him!) he then paid for his damaged board/shipping of the board/eBay and pay pal fees/ and the remaining amount for a new board. I bought a new rottendog board and it fixed everything.

That twobits one seems a lot more expensive than the rottendog one and the rottendog one I have has been working great. The twobit site says this board is for Dr Dude too but Its a system 11 not a WPC so I don't know why it's there.

Includes all the chips, so there is some price difference there.

There actually were some Dr Dude's built with the WPC board set.

By chance you have the old ones?

Yes you're right I forgot about that!

Still waiting to see pictures of these connectors. Having a replacement board may only be half the battle if connectors need to be repined.

No. I hadn't seen the side view of the wired connectors yet. Need to see the side of the pins that you can see, not where it plugs into the male connectors.

I hope there is no damage to any of them. If that is the case, then a replacement board should be all you need.

Replacement board is on order?

The bottom terminals of the caps are clean, the switch connectors should be fine. But I would look at J210 connector for corrosion.

I had seen a couple of games with battery damaged female pin connectors and not damage the male pins.

Yes, the female connector is on the wired end, which will get plugged into the replacement board. Just want to be sure you're not risking damage to your other board.

Time to pop in a NVRAM into LW3, which the board already has a socket for so it will be an easy upgrade just swapping out the old part.

There you go. J208 has corrosion on the female and male header pins. Gravity played a part in this. The top part of the J210 male header pins are black on the tips (at least according to the camera angle), so I would repin J210 along with J208.

J208 and its connector needs to be replaced

The whole board is being replaced early next week.

I saw a darkening on the power connector J210, but I think its just a shadow on the image

You still need to replace the J208 connector BEFORE you install the new board

For sure.

OP, keep this in mind if you buy another game that has any battery corrosion. There seems to be other battery manufacturers that offer a similar warranty as Duracell.

.100" pins for the J208 are very small and can be bought multiple places.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=08-50-0114&sprice=&stype=&scat=

If you don't buy a connector key, you still should fill the hole somehow, epoxy is another idea.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=15-04-9209&sprice=&stype=&scat=

And a 9 pin connector housing with a locking ramp.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=CP100-09-LR&sprice=&stype=&scat=

Guys do you really think 208 has corrosion or was it when the batteries were change it dropped down and landed on the connector and would fall off if it was turned over?

The pins are clearly corroded on the board. The connector should be repinned

I was looking at the connector and didn't even look at the pins. My bad!

Why would we kill you!! Yell and scream maybe, but never kill. 120.00 dollars seems like a waste when you just need 2 connectors at @ one dollar. Then 15 minutes of your time. Its also good practice as you may need to replace a GI connector some day.

This is the Transformer secondary cable it provides the AC voltage taps to the several different cards in the backbox; its available as it would be a standard cable. If you were to try and find the entire wiring harness, it would be the game specific switch harness you would need.