It’s not that attractive to make as a mod. You have to buy the shooter rod housing and the metal mounting plate plate ($35 from pinball life) then you have to drill lots of holes through thick metal so you’ll go through bits pretty fast. Then there is the wiring. Certainly not difficult, but time, labor and materials would put the price fairly high to make it worthwhile. Does stern include a node board with their lit shooter rods, or is it plug and play at the coindoor? How much do you think people would be willing to pay for it? As a diy, for sure, it’s worth it, but as a commercial product, it won’t be a great deal for people.

Btw, hoby, where are you getting the amber w/mosquito from?

I think you misunderstood me. When I said it’s not that attractive as a mod, I meant as a mod to sell because of the labor and cost, and I was replying to Dug specifically who asked why nobody was selling it, not hoby. As a diy, I think it’s a great mod, which is why I asked hoby where he got the amber. I am going to make one myself and just for myself.

No problem, I can see how what I wrote might be interpreted differently so your post allowed me to clarify.

Not sure about your other comment, that seems a bit unfair. It’s a public forum, we all disagree with things from time to time and speak up, but I didn’t think I had a reputation of consistently commenting negatively on other peoples mods.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-aiq-captain-marvel-ramp-fix?tq=&tu=Lermods

Curious about your wiring. I see you are using cn15, which has 5v and spare leds, but no ground. The spare leds serve as ground, but Looks like you’ve got three wires in your connector, but there are only 2 wires coming off the leds themselves so what’s the third wire for? Are you connecting each ground from the led separately maybe? Is that what you mean in your post regarding left and right fading?

Those are 12v, you can get them in 5v if you want to wire to cn15 at the coindoor. Or maybe you just wired to be always on, which is fine too.

I ordered the amber you suggested. I’m going to buy a threaded shooter rod from pinballl life and a 3/8” threaded insert. I’ll jb weld the insert into the amber, I think this might be stronger and hopefully straighter than directly inserting a rod into the amber. The trickiest part I think is making sure the hole drilled into the amber is perfectly straight.

I got my amber earlier last week from amazon and have installed the shooter rod. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the amber and used a tap to add threads in the hole. I used a standard stern shooter rod and added some threads to the end of it with a die so I could screw it in to the amber. I put some jb weld on the end of the rod and a little in the hole in the amber and it should be good to go. Now I just need my game to put the lighting in and install it. I think it should hold up well with this method. The amber is quite a bit bigger than the stern version, measuring 3" long, but I think it will work just fine.

PXL_20210725_122900720 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210725_122918609 (resized).jpg

you can buy prewired 5v leds bulbs pretty easily if you want, or just add the resistor, which will be cheaper, but we are talking pennies of difference.

No, you are good, no additional resistor needed.

This is correct. If you use pins 5 and 6, the leds will be lit constantly. Pins 3 and 4 provide some interactivity with the game. So, if you use two leds, power for both goes to pin 1, the ground from one led goes to pin 3 and the ground for the other led goes to pin 4.