Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019Would hate to spend 150/200 on a Stern Jurassic Park shooter so I said fk it and am making my own. So far so good. Will cost under 50 bucks when finished and some time.
3B5AB611-40D1-47EF-8F04-3224258190F2 (resized).jpeg71E8385E-C94D-4B1B-AA19-7F437AC6D812 (resized).jpegC75B4177-C521-4A0E-94BE-35C91F031DA8 (resized).jpegF73D6FA0-E36A-417F-83F3-37863280DEBC (resized).jpeg
I'm really surprised that no one has started selling the lit housing part alone. I'm not sure but I'm expecting all of the games that have had them as a Stern add on option (Jurassic Park, Stranger Things, Avengers: Infinity Quest) have them wired the same. I've seen several DIY posts about making them....yet no one has jumped on board to make them to sell to others.
Haha - you are a man after my own heart.
8500 for a pinball machine? “No problemo.”
150 for a shooter rod? “That’s too expensive!”
Following!
Quoted from Damonator:Haha - you are a man after my own heart.
8500 for a pinball machine? “No problemo.”
150 for a shooter rod? “That’s too expensive!”
Following!
Probably because I couldnt build game from scratch. 
Quoted from DugFreez:I'm really surprised that no one has started selling the lit housing part alone. I'm not sure but I'm expecting all of the games that have had them as a Stern add on option (Jurassic Park, Stranger Things, Avengers: Infinity Quest) have them wired the same. I've seen several DIY posts about making them....yet no one has jumped on board to make them to sell to others.
It’s not that attractive to make as a mod. You have to buy the shooter rod housing and the metal mounting plate plate ($35 from pinball life) then you have to drill lots of holes through thick metal so you’ll go through bits pretty fast. Then there is the wiring. Certainly not difficult, but time, labor and materials would put the price fairly high to make it worthwhile. Does stern include a node board with their lit shooter rods, or is it plug and play at the coindoor? How much do you think people would be willing to pay for it? As a diy, for sure, it’s worth it, but as a commercial product, it won’t be a great deal for people.
Btw, hoby, where are you getting the amber w/mosquito from?
Quoted from Lermods:Does stern include a node board with their lit shooter rods, or is it plug and play at the coindoor?
No, they just plug into one of the cabinet node board connections (I forget which one) and that is where it gets its "power when it is supposed to be getting power" from.
Quoted from Lermods:It’s not that attractive to make as a mod. You have to buy the shooter rod housing and the metal mounting plate plate ($35 from pinball life) then you have to drill lots of holes through thick metal so you’ll go through bits pretty fast. Then there is the wiring. Certainly not difficult, but time, labor and materials would put the price fairly high to make it worthwhile. Does stern include a node board with their lit shooter rods, or is it plug and play at the coindoor? How much do you think people would be willing to pay for it? As a diy, for sure, it’s worth it, but as a commercial product, it won’t be a great deal for people.
Btw, hoby, where are you getting the amber w/mosquito from?
Amazon, but then I 3D print a black base before I drill and epoxy the shooter rod in.
Jurassic Park Mosquito In Amber Resin Prop Replica | Official Jurassic Park Collectible Paper Weight | Measures 3 Inches Tall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0843PHG2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QKXED6RPKRJKX019ZGYD
Dude, this looks so much better than the official one. I have one on order but will still order this when finished. Great work!
Quoted from Lermods:It’s not that attractive to make as a mod. You have to buy the shooter rod housing and the metal mounting plate plate ($35 from pinball life) then you have to drill lots of holes through thick metal so you’ll go through bits pretty fast. Then there is the wiring. Certainly not difficult, but time, labor and materials would put the price fairly high to make it worthwhile. Does stern include a node board with their lit shooter rods, or is it plug and play at the coindoor? How much do you think people would be willing to pay for it? As a diy, for sure, it’s worth it, but as a commercial product, it won’t be a great deal for people.
Btw, hoby, where are you getting the amber w/mosquito from?
Funny I’ll probably getting bashed but F it
I see you comment on a lot of other people who making mods and you always have something to say.And I don’t mean in a good way
We all know you do a lot of modding and selling stuff . Better to just sometimes say. Wow looking good mate! As Its not always about making money .
But funny enough you had to ask where the amber/mosquito came from...
Anyway hoby1 it’s looking better imho then the 169 version from stern!
Maybe if you just sell the amber rod and the 2 leds with cabling people can drill 2 holes in there existing plate/spacer?
Quoted from Lermods:Btw, hoby, where are you getting the amber w/mosquito from?
It looks like this one
Quoted from AMSNL:Funny I’ll probably getting bashed but F it
I see you comment on a lot of other people who making mods and you always have something to say.And I don’t mean in a good way
We all know you do a lot of modding and selling stuff . Better to just sometimes say. Wow looking good mate! As Its not always about making money .
But funny enough you had to ask where the amber/mosquito came from...
Anyway hoby1 it’s looking better imho then the 169 version from stern!
Maybe if you just sell the amber rod and the 2 leds with cabling people can drill 2 holes in there existing plate/spacer?
I think you misunderstood me. When I said it’s not that attractive as a mod, I meant as a mod to sell because of the labor and cost, and I was replying to Dug specifically who asked why nobody was selling it, not hoby. As a diy, I think it’s a great mod, which is why I asked hoby where he got the amber. I am going to make one myself and just for myself.
Quoted from Lermods:I think you misunderstood me. When I said it’s not that attractive as a mod, I meant as a mod to sell because of the labor and cost, and I was replying to Dug specifically, not hoby. As a diy, I think it’s a great mod, which is why I asked hoby where he got the amber. I am going to make one myself and just for myself.
Lermods if that is what your where trying to say then I’m wrong and I apologize .
as I was reading it a diff way.
Quoted from AMSNL:Lermods if that is what your where trying to say then I’m wrong and I apologize . as I was reading it a diff way.
No problem, I can see how what I wrote might be interpreted differently so your post allowed me to clarify.
Not sure about your other comment, that seems a bit unfair. It’s a public forum, we all disagree with things from time to time and speak up, but I didn’t think I had a reputation of consistently commenting negatively on other peoples mods.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-aiq-captain-marvel-ramp-fix?tq=&tu=Lermods
I made a lighted shooter rod last fall, so have gone through this process. First let me say, you now have options. When I did it a year ago, it's because Stern was hopelessly out of stock and I didn't want to wait. I purchased the Modfather's shooter rod, with the Amber part already mounted. I had seen paperweights like you have found at Amazon but the scale was always a bit too big for me. The Stern amber is about 2-inches long, and all the other types are 3 or larger. Not a big deal, but I decided to go with the Modfather's for that reason. It was $99. As far as the shooter plate drilling goes, it was easy and I even posted a schematic of what is required in this thread last year. Basically drill two holes in the aluminum for 3mm or 5mm LEDs, about 8 feet of wire, (red and black), two resistors (I used 150ohm 1/4 watt) and a node board connector shell. Reminder that you also need to cut a slot into the backplate, to allow the wires to exist the area without being crushed. At the end of the work, your LEDs are integrated into the software, so that they interact visually with the game play itself. This is because you plug into the specific cabinet node board that Stern's was designed for.
Last note: carefully mark your cabinet with blue painter's tape BEFORE you remove the old shooter plate, so that you can align the new shooter plate in the exact same place. This will save you significant time getting your manual shots adjusted correctly and the tip of the shooter rub dead-center as shipped from factory.
Refer to my pictorial:
Quoted from Markharris2000:I made a lighted shooter rod last fall, so have gone through this process. First let me say, you now have options. When I did it a year ago, it's because Stern was hopelessly out of stock and I didn't want to wait. I purchased the Modfather's shooter rod, with the Amber part already mounted. I had seen paperweights like you have found at Amazon but the scale was always a bit too big for me. The Stern amber is about 2-inches long, and all the other types are 3 or larger. Not a big deal, but I decided to go with the Modfather's for that reason. It was $99. As far as the shooter plate drilling goes, it was easy and I even posted a schematic of what is required in this thread last year. Basically drill two holes in the aluminum for 3mm or 5mm LEDs, about 8 feet of wire, (red and black), two resistors (I used 150ohm 1/4 watt) and a node board connector shell. Reminder that you also need to cut a slot into the backplate, to allow the wires to exist the area without being crushed. At the end of the work, your LEDs are integrated into the software, so that they interact visually with the game play itself. This is because you plug into the specific cabinet node board that Stern's was designed for.
Last note: carefully mark your cabinet with blue painter's tape BEFORE you remove the old shooter plate, so that you can align the new shooter plate in the exact same place. This will save you significant time getting your manual shots adjusted correctly and the tip of the shooter rub dead-center as shipped from factory.
Refer to my pictorial:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/142#post-5872922
Curious about your wiring. I see you are using cn15, which has 5v and spare leds, but no ground. The spare leds serve as ground, but Looks like you’ve got three wires in your connector, but there are only 2 wires coming off the leds themselves so what’s the third wire for? Are you connecting each ground from the led separately maybe? Is that what you mean in your post regarding left and right fading?
Quoted from Lermods:Curious about your wiring. I see you are using cn15, which has 5v and spare leds, but no ground. The spare leds serve as ground, but Looks like you’ve got three wires in your connector, but there are only 2 wires coming off the leds themselves so what’s the third wire for? Are you connecting each ground from the led separately maybe? Is that what you mean in your post regarding left and right fading?
There are three wires because each LED is controlled in software separately. One VCC and two LED feeds (technically these are Ground). During game play, there are subtle changes and dimming on both LEDs. Stern uses a 4-pin MOLEX in the middle to prevent any confusion with the more common 3-pin POWER-ONLY type connectors used by other modders. Schematic is attached
Quoted from Lermods:Curious about your wiring. I see you are using cn15, which has 5v and spare leds, but no ground. The spare leds serve as ground, but Looks like you’ve got three wires in your connector, but there are only 2 wires coming off the leds themselves so what’s the third wire for? Are you connecting each ground from the led separately maybe? Is that what you mean in your post regarding left and right fading?
I understood you perfectly man... You are correct. I would have to charge about 110 bucks just for the housing itself. Parts would be about 65 with wire, LEDs shooter assembly, plate and fuse holder
Here are the LEDs I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082NRL4WB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
Quoted from hoby1:I understood you perfectly man... You are correct. I would have to charge about 110 bucks just for the housing itself. Parts would be about 65 with wire, LEDs shooter assembly, plate and fuse holder
Here are the LEDs I used
amazon.com link »
Those are 12v, you can get them in 5v if you want to wire to cn15 at the coindoor. Or maybe you just wired to be always on, which is fine too.
I ordered the amber you suggested. I’m going to buy a threaded shooter rod from pinballl life and a 3/8” threaded insert. I’ll jb weld the insert into the amber, I think this might be stronger and hopefully straighter than directly inserting a rod into the amber. The trickiest part I think is making sure the hole drilled into the amber is perfectly straight.
You can use these 5mm Amber Leds, they will save you space under the plate as they are already internal resisted for voltage from 5v - 15v.
Lighthouse LEDs 12v 5mm Round Top Clear Lens LED - Amber/Orange LED - Ultra Bright - Built in/Internal Resistor - 5v, 6v, 7v, 8v, 9v, 10v, 11v, 13v, 14v, 15v (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVSKFPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_68N7ZDW33ZFGS5DTE7PV
Quoted from hoby1:I like the 5mm leds as they came with the holder.
Wired to CN11 on bad board. Put a fuse holder in line.
A reminder that cabinet board CN15 supplies 5V and Grounds to two individual lines controlled by the game software. So each of the LEDs pulse and dim and have other effects which are controlled individually by the JP software when wired to CN15 as shown above. If you wire to any other point, the LEDs are just "ON" all the time. Not a big deal, but the LEDs look very cool pulsing with gameplay.
Quoted from Markharris2000:A reminder that cabinet board CN15 supplies 5V and Grounds to two individual lines controlled by the game software. So each of the LEDs pulse and dim and have other effects which are controlled individually by the JP software when wired to CN15 as shown above. If you wire to any other point, the LEDs are just "ON" all the time. Not a big deal, but the LEDs look very cool pulsing with gameplay.
Yep exactly, or another option if you are going to run strictly off the 12v you can add one of these inline to add different effects to the shooter rods lighting.
I got my amber earlier last week from amazon and have installed the shooter rod. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the amber and used a tap to add threads in the hole. I used a standard stern shooter rod and added some threads to the end of it with a die so I could screw it in to the amber. I put some jb weld on the end of the rod and a little in the hole in the amber and it should be good to go. Now I just need my game to put the lighting in and install it. I think it should hold up well with this method. The amber is quite a bit bigger than the stern version, measuring 3" long, but I think it will work just fine.
PXL_20210725_122900720 (resized).jpgPXL_20210725_122918609 (resized).jpgIm not a big JB weld person.... but I like what see. I used Amber epoxy and had zero color difference. I see the shooter as clear as the mosquito
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-Mid-Cure-Combined/dp/B0166FFFJ8/ref=sr_1_6
Quoted from Markharris2000:There are three wires because each LED is controlled in software separately. One VCC and two LED feeds (technically these are Ground). During game play, there are subtle changes and dimming on both LEDs. Stern uses a 4-pin MOLEX in the middle to prevent any confusion with the more common 3-pin POWER-ONLY type connectors used by other modders. Schematic is attached
[quoted image]
Do I need the resistors if I switch to 5v LEDs ?
If I do will 100 ohm 1/4 watt suffice ?
Quoted from hoby1:Do I need the resistors if I switch to 5v LEDs ?
If I do will 100 ohm 1/4 watt suffice ?
LEDs ALWAYS need resistors to limit the current drawn. It's the nature of an LED. Yes, lowering the LED resistor is a good idea. With a 5V power source, the LED will draw 2.5volts and the resistor will need to have 2.5volts across it. The LED may take 20mA. Back of the napkin says 2.5volts / .02amps equals 125 ohms. And the Wattage is low so 1/4Watt part should work.
Quoted from hoby1:Do I need the resistors if I switch to 5v LEDs ?
If I do will 100 ohm 1/4 watt suffice ?
you can buy prewired 5v leds bulbs pretty easily if you want, or just add the resistor, which will be cheaper, but we are talking pennies of difference.
Quoted from Lermods:you can buy prewired 5v leds bulbs pretty easily if you want, or just add the resistor, which will be cheaper, but we are talking pennies of difference.
Thx man ... I did buy prewired ones. I thought he was saying to add one on also.
Quoted from hoby1:Thx man ... I did buy prewired ones. I thought he was saying to add one on also.
No, you are good, no additional resistor needed.
I 3D printed a translucent cap that I epoxy to the egg and rod. It give it a much more finished look and feel
Some may be wondering why I did not make it 1mm larger to be to the very edge. I did and it did not have a good feel. I wanted to be 1mm thick on the outer edge so it would not chip .
8BECFEF2-8370-4919-9D19-9B54741C7A38 (resized).jpegE4A0ECB6-2632-43A5-979F-1420E8BEE40F (resized).jpegQuoted from hoby1:I 3D printed a translucent cap that I epoxy to the egg and rod. It give it a much more finished look and feel
Some may be wondering why I did not make it 1mm larger to be to the very edge. I did and it did not have a good feel. I wanted to be 1mm thick on the outer edge so it would not chip . [quoted image][quoted image]
Are you considering selling these? I would be interested
Wow, nice work. Even better than the $160 one I got from Stern. The bug in mine is off center by a lot.
Quoted from hoby1:Can some one tell me the pin mount for c15 and which way it starts as there is no numbers
[quoted image][quoted image]
CN15 .100" 6-Pin Header
Spare LED's
1 5V LED Power - (Far right )
2 Key Key
3 Spare LED 3 -
4 Spare LED 4 -
5 Spare LED 5 -
6 Spare LED 6 - (Far Left )
Now I recall someone posting a diagram that we use only Pin 1 for 5vdc. and pins 3 & 4 with one led going to #3 and the other to # 4 but they both pickup power from #1 with their other leg.
Quoted from DeathHimself:CN15 .100" 6-Pin Header
Spare LED's
1 5V LED Power - (Far right )
2 Key Key
3 Spare LED 3 -
4 Spare LED 4 -
5 Spare LED 5 -
6 Spare LED 6 - (Far Left )
Now I recall someone posting a diagram that we use only Pin 1 for 5vdc. and pins 3 & 4 with one led going to #3 and the other to # 4 but they both pickup power from #1 with their other leg.
This is correct. If you use pins 5 and 6, the leds will be lit constantly. Pins 3 and 4 provide some interactivity with the game. So, if you use two leds, power for both goes to pin 1, the ground from one led goes to pin 3 and the ground for the other led goes to pin 4.
Quoted from Lermods:Does stern include a node board with their lit shooter rods, or is it plug and play at the coindoor?
Quoted from DugFreez:No, they just plug into one of the cabinet node board connections (I forget which one) and that is where it gets its "power when it is supposed to be getting power" from.
I have a slight update on this as it pertains to The Avengers: Infinity Quest lit shooter housing. It has color changing LED on it and it does seem to have some sort of additional board with it.
I have the plate all done, I went a different route for the LEDs I used an inline control unit to adjust lighting effects, speed and brightness rather then touching CN15 on the board as you can see in the video.
IMHO my only issue is I thought the Amber Sap was a bit to big for my liking, looked great but going to try to find something smaller or maybe just buy a translucent handled shooter rod or even an amber one if they make it.
Here’s a smaller option for $100
https://superskillshot.com/products/jurassic-park-amber-shooter-rod?_pos=1&_sid=cbf753487&_ss=r
These guys make some pretty nice plungers that still feel good to shoot. I got sucked in buying different shooters for almost every machine as they’re priced from $50-100. Not bad for the quality!
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