did you check the EOS by the flipper coil? maybe try adjusting that to see if it does anything relative to the flutter you mentioned.

I would replace the EOS switch. I had a weak flipper on my JP and the EOS appeared to be in perfect condition. Changed the EOS and its been fine. These Data East EOS switches have a history, apparently, of failing.

yes, I believe that is correct. Is there a fuse clip on the flipper board? Check to make sure the fuse clip isn't cracked. Also, make sure the flipper cabinet button switch is clean (clean with some rubbing alcohol and make sure it is dry).

one more item to check: The flipper board transistors that control the hold voltage.

Also might be low power wire on the coil is broken.

+1 Definitely check that too.

Sounds like the tip 36c is out on the ssfb

There is no low power wire on Data East flipper coils.

The Deger flipper design is a single-wound coil.

It gets a very short duration 50v pulse and then goes to a 9v hold until the button is let go or the EOS switch closes.

DE flippers will machine-gun if the 9v hold is missing.

RM

Learn something new every day.

I had this exact same problem about a month ago. It ended up being broken solder for the connections of the transistors on the heatsinks on the flipper board. I resoldered all three, and that took care of it. Also had a couple of bad fuse clips that I replaced, but that did not fix the fluttering.

Yup, that's all part of that circuit, but lets test the 9VAC hold fuses first:

Pull them and test with a DMM for continuity. Fuse clips may also be cracked.

RM

DataEastFlipperBoard520-5033-03-RevisionC.jpg

Yes could be the SR# S2800B thyristor is out on that flipper

There is a SR in each flipper section on the ssfb. It is the one with the heat sink on it SR1,2 or 3 depending on the flipper and that section.. S2800B thyristor,, looks like a transitor

EOS switches on these machines do NOTHING. The entire circuit is timed by the CPU. You can bend them out of the way and you still will get short HIGH VOLTAGE pulses

I would test all the transistors in that flipper section, The sr s2800b location and both q locations tip36c and there is a tip32c for that flipper. You need the manual to pinpoint the location of that flipper on the ssfb pcb. I would think it would be tip36 or the tip32 that is bad, Pretty cheap to replace. http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=jurassic&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick

That is not actually correct.

For the WPC/fliptronics games, that's mostly correct.

For the DE/Deger games, the EOS are essetial for correct function. They were deliberately added by DE starting with JP because of the Raptor kickback. Previous DE did not use EOS switches at all (DESW, R&B, etc)

The EOS is NC, the coil gets a milliseconds-long 50v pulse and then changes to a 9v hold as long as the flipper button is held in and the EOS remains open.

If the flipper bat is knocked down far enough to close the EOS switch (like from the Raptor kickback) it gets another short 50v pulse. That's why the flipper machine-guns if the 9v hold fails. The falling flipper bat closes the EOS switch, 50v pulse, EOS opens, bat falls again, etc.

If the EOS switch is always open (misadjusted, broken off, whatever) the flipper only ever gets the 9volts and the DE flippers are very weak. You can't just remove them.

WPC/Fliptronics, yes; DE Deger, no.

RussMyers

Well, you could try one of these:

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/RotDogBoards.html

Data East/Sega Universal Flipper Board
$80.00
FLP023 - RD Data East Flipper Board

RM

Wow,, ok did you do a continuity check on the traces, Make sure everything has a good trace. Pulled this from pinball repair >>

Flipper Board LEDs.
The solidstate flipper boards have a pair of LEDs. These connect to the cabinet switches, and show that the solidstate flipper board is processing the signal from the cabinet switches. The LEDs will light anytime the cabinet switches are pressed (and the game is on). The does *not* have to be in game mode. If the LEDs are flashing when the cabinet switches are pressed, that is a good sign that the flipper board is active and ready to work.

Easy Damage to the Solid State Flipper board.
The DataEast solid state flipper board(s) are not in the backbox. They are located in the lower cabinet, below the playfield. Starting with Ninja Turtles (the first game with playfield sliding rails, allowing the playfield to slide forward for easier repair), flipper board damage can occur because of the board's location. This happens when the playfield, in the raised position, gets tilted, and falls off the cabinet mounting slide rails. This especially happens if the game's prop rod is used, and the playfield is not straight on its mounting slide rails.

The best way to avoid damage is to just be careful! When raising the playfield, don't let the playfield get tilted or angled. Also try not to use the playfield prop rod. If it is used, make sure the playfield is straight on the slide rails, and won't fall inside the cabinet.

Damage to a solid state flipper board. This happened
because the playfield fell off its mounting rails, and
damaged the board. This is VERY common. Usually it
tears up the flipper board much more than this! Since
the SR1 and SR2 transistors with heat sinks stick out
the most, they usually get ripped completely off.

The CPU Board Flipper Relay RY1.
The flippers are only enabled during game play (and in diagnostic mode games Frankenstein and before). The flipper enable relay turns the ground off and on for the flipper coils. The flipper enable relay is located on the CPU board at RY1, and is activated by transistor Q80 (2N4401). When entering diagnostic mode (Frankenstein and before), the flipper relay should "click" on (activating the flipper buttons; this does not happen on Baywatch and later Portal diagnostic games though). This relay is a 6 vdc, 5 amp, 4 pole relay with four SPST switches. These switches are wired into 2 pairs (this is done because there can be up to 2 pairs of flippers). It connects through transistor Q80 (2N4401) and a 7402 at 12A and 12B and a 7406 at 12E and 12F, a 555 timer at 1C, and ultimately the 6821 PIA at 11D. If any of these components are bad, the relay may not activate the flippers. Test transistor Q80 first, as this fails the most often.

The coil diode as used on a flipper coil, Robocop
and later. This lower flipper coil is on Jurassic
Park, and hence has an EOS switch.

If the Flipper(s) Don't Work at All or are Intermittent...
Solid state Flipper games (Robocop and later): •On games with electronic flippers, clean the EOS switches (if the game has them) and the cabinet switches with a cotton swab and alcohol. This is especially the case if the flippers are intermittent, working only sometimes, or sometimes weak flippers. This only takes a second to do and can solve many problems.
•Check the flipper fuses. For solid state flippers (Robocop and later), the fuses are on the solid state flipper board, which is on the side of the cabinet under the playfield. The flipper will also not work if the 50 volt fuse on the PPB board is blown (this fuse is located at the top center of the PPB board, to the right of the four inline fuses at the top left).
•Check the fuse clips on the solid state flipper board. Often these fatigue or break and will not grip the fuses. Push down on the fuses as installed in the flipper board. If the fuse clip "Y"-out, the clip is bad and must be replaced.
•Look for damage on the solid state flipper boards. Since these boards are located below the playfield on the left side of the cabinet wall, they are very easily damaged. A common problem is a broken or open TIP36 or TIP42 transistor on the solid state flipper board. The position of the board(s) under the playfield (on the side of the cabinet), permits easy damage if the playfield tilts and falls inside the cabinet (this especially happens on Ninja Turtles and later games with playfield mounting slide rails). If the playfield falls off the slide rails and into the cabinet, it can easily tear components off the solid state flipper boards. Several transistors with heat sinks stick out the furthest from the board, making them easiest to damage.
•Check the LEDs on the flipper board. The LEDs indicate that the flipper cabinet buttons are being pressed. There is one LED for each flipper in the game. If pressing the flipper buttons does not flash the flipper board LED(s), try cleaning the cabinet switch and flipper coil EOS switch (if the game has them) with alcohol and a rag.
•On Jurassic Park, Last Action Hero, and Tales from the Crypt, check the normally closed EOS switch. If the EOS switch is dirty, or has a wire or switch blade broken, or is mis-adjusted so the switch is not closed when the flipper is at rest, the flipper will not work! Test by using an alligator jumper wire across the EOS switch. This problem only happens on games with solid state flipper boards #520-5033-03 and 520-5070-00 (which is replacable with #520-5076-00 and #520-5080-00 respectively, which fixes this problem). These flipper boards can also be modified to act correctly, like the later flipper boards. See the DataEast service bulletin number 54 by clicking here, here, and here.
•Check for voltage at the flipper coil (on games WWF and later, make sure the coin door is closed!) With the flippers enabled (in game mode), use the DC voltage setting on the DMM. Put the black lead on ground (grounding strap inside the coin door). Put the red lead on the flipper coil lug connected to the BANDED side of the diode. Press and hold the cabinet flipper button (no voltage will be shown until the cabinet button is pressed). The DMM should show a spike of high voltage, which settles down to about 7 volts DC. No voltage means a fuse is blown, or there is damage to the solid state flipper board, or the flipper enable relay. Repeat this step in attract (game over) mode. But this time put the red lead on either flipper coil lug. With the flipper cabinet button pressed and held, look for a voltage spike which settles down to about 7 volts DC.
•If there is no power to a flipper, and the solidstate flipper board fuses are good, next test the TIP36 transistors on the flipper board (should get .5 to .7 volts using the DMM diode test). Even if they do not appear to be damaged, this is a common part to fail. If a TIP36 fails, its associated flipper will not function at all. See Checking/Fixing Transistors and Coils for procedures on testing transistors.
•Both flippers work fine, then especially when holding them up for a few seconds, they die. They start working again a few seconds later. Sometimes the flippers may only get the high voltage power side, and will blow the low and/or high power fuses when used. Check all diodes and transistors on the Solid State Flipper Board (.5 to .7 volt range on the diode DMM test). If all seem fine, this can often be attributed to the 4093 chips on the solidstate flipper board (replace both of them and use sockets).

Pre-Solid State Flipper games (Monday Night Football and before):
•Check the flipper fuses. For pre-solid state flippers (Monday Night Football and before), the flipper fuses are in the backbox.
•Make sure the EOS switches are properly adjusted! For example, if an EOS switch never opens, the flipper fuse will continually fail. Make sure this normally closed EOS switch is adjusted properly with a 1/8" to 1/16" gap at full flipper extention.
•Clean the flipper cabinet switch contacts and the EOS switch contacts with a small metal file. This will ensure good contact on these switches, and decrease any resistance from burnt or pitted switch contacts.
•VERIFY THIS. For pre-solid state flippers (Monday Night Football and before), check for +50 volts at the flipper coil. With the flippers enabled (in game mode, or game in diagnostic mode on some games), put the DMM on DC voltage. Put the black lead on ground (grounding strap by the playfield prop rod). Put the red lead on any of the flipper coil lugs. The DMM should show between 50 and 80 volts. No voltage means a fuse is blown, or a wire has broken, or damage to the flipper enable relay.
•VERIFY THIS. Test the coil itself. On pre-solid state flippers (Monday Night Football and before) turn the game on and go into diagnostic mode. Attach an alligator test lead to ground (grounding strap by the playfield prop rod), and momentarily touch the other end of the test lead to the non-banded diode coil lug. The coil should activate.

All Games:
•Check the flipper fuses. For pre-solid state flippers (Monday Night Football and before), the flipper fuses are in the backbox. For solid state flippers (Robocop and later), the fuses are on the solid state flipper board, which is on the side of the cabinet under the playfield.
•Check the flipper coil. With the DMM set to ohms and the game turned off: ◾On a three lug (pre-Deger, Time Machine and before) coils, put one lead of the DMM on the common flipper lug (the one with the thick and thin coil winding attached to it).
◾Put the other lead of the DMM on the thick wire lug. The DMM should show between 4 and 6 ohms. This is the high powered side of the coil.
◾Move the DMM lead to the thin wire lug of the coil (if a 3 lug coil). The DMM should show a little more than 4 to 6 ohms until the flipper is manually moved to the full extended position, opening the EOS switch. The DMM should then show about 160 ohms. Note if more than about 5 ohms is shown when the flipper is at rest, the EOS switch is pitted and causing some resistance. Clean it for stronger flippers.
◾On Playboy and later (single wound flipper coil design) games, just put the DMM on both leads of the flipper coil. The DMM should show between 4 and 6 ohms.
◾If the DMM does not show approximately these readings, the flipper coil is bad. On pre-Deger flipper coils, typically the hold side of the coil goes bad more often that the power side.

•Test the flipper diode(s). Cut one lead of the diode off the coil lug. Set the DMM to the diode setting. Put the black lead of the DMM on the banded side of the diode. It should show .4 to .6 volts. Reverse the leads and no reading should be shown. When done, re-attach each diode lead.
•The CPU board flipper relay RY1 is not engaging. If the relay that turns the ground on to the flippers (when a game starts) has failed, the flippers will never work. Check for cold solder joints on the relay's solder points. Test transistor Q80 (2N4401), as this fails the most often.

If the Flipper Works, but...
•Flipper goes up, but won't stay up. On solid state flipper games, check the hold fuses on the flipper board. On solid state flipper games Robocop and Phantom of the Opera, check resistors R16 and R32 on the flipper board; these should be 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistors. Also check resistors R7 and R23; these should be 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistors.
•Flipper goes up, but won't stay up. On solidstate flippers, clean the cabinet flipper switches with a rag and alcohol. Also clean the EOS switches (if the game has them) in the same manner.
•Flipper goes up, but won't stay up. Check the wiring harness. The 9 volts AC hold voltage comes off the power supply at CN1 pins 11,10 (square plug) and go to the flipper board at CN2 pins 6,7 (respectively). Along the way there is a 2 pin connector inside the wiring harness. This can become disconnected if the head was recently lowered.
•Flipper works for a few minutes, then don't work at all. Check the flipper enable relay RY1 on the CPU board. Cold solder joints on this relay, or bad relay switch contacts can cause this problem.

The Flipper "Flutters"... (When the flipper button is pressed and held, flipper doesn't hold up, but "flutters" up and down quickly).
•On pre-Deger (Time Machine and before) flipper coils, this means the hold winding on the coil itself is broken. The hold winding on the coil is the thin wire. If it is broken, the loose wire can usually be seen, and has broken away from one of the solder lugs (the middle lug should have both the thick and thin wire attached to it). Test the coil first (see above) before replacing the transistor.
•On Deger (Playboy and later) single wound flipper coils, make sure the normally closed EOS switch is working correctly. Also check the IN5404 diode for failure.
•When activated, doesn't hold up (the flipper "flutters"). On all solid state flippers, check the fuses on the solid state flipper board(s). Also check the TIP32c transistors which control the hold voltage.
•On solid state flipper games Phantom of the Opera and before, check the flipper cabinet buttons. During production of Phanton of the Opera, the flipper buttons were changed from leaf switches to enclosed micro switches. This prevented the leaf switches from getting dirty, and causing this problem.

Not to beat a dead horse but did you replace the EOS switch with an original? It does make a difference. The was a special service bulletin #54 put out by DE about these switches as they were a problem. I bought mine from Marco (I think) for like $8 or something and it cured my issue. I'll look back to see where I got it.

Twinmice - check this out...

https://web.archive.org/web/20140209110724/http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb54.pdf

The original EOS is part number 180-5124-01 and is available at Marco for $6.95.

when you replaced the e.o.s. switch did you adjust it? g.l. joe

Just a shot in the dark maybe try swapping the flipper coils from see if the problem moves. If so then a flakey coil.

Could it be a flakey connection between the EOS switch and flipper board? Can you short the EOS switch connectors at the flipper board to cut the EOS switch and its leads out of the circuit to see if there is any change?

What happens if you switch the outputs from the board for the upper and lower right flippers? Both are controlled by the same flipper button. But let the board think it's flipper the upper when it's flipping the lower and vise versa. You can do this by swapping four wires in the output connector and pressing them in with a wire pinch or tiny screw driver.

As for rottendog on this board, I have bought 4 flipper boards at various times for data east and none have ever worked right