(Topic ID: 117323)

JP DE Flipper rebuild What the friggin hell??!

By Edenecho

9 years ago


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IMG_6468.JPG
camparison.png
Jp right flipper rebuild2.jpg
JP left flipper rebuild.jpg
#1 9 years ago

Alright...*breathing slowly*
I bought this set from pinballlife: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=248

The whole process went fairly well, except the new flipper pawl was strangely...insanely hard to manipulate, as in making the flipper bats go through. After a lots of work we got it squeezed through,dead stuck. So far, so barely good. Then the problem arised when tightening the pawl bolt. We tightened so fracking hard we feared the either the flipper bat may break or the playfield may crack. Seriously. then we tried then, and the flippers werent tight at all. we kick literally use 10 % force and push the flippers out of position.

So we tried tightening more, with the accompanied stress and fear of breaking the playfield or something. Some others looked and said that this really didnt seem normal at all.

For the sake of comparison we tried using a pawl from a williams, and pow, no problemo. It was much easier and practical to tighten, as the pawl is not 100 000000 mm thick. Although it collides with the eos leaf switch, so cant use it for real playing. Why does Data east/Sega/stern have to make things so goddamn unpractical, is it just because they want to be different.... -_- okay, sorry for the rant, just got so exhausted that after fixing so much on JP; tightening the pawl is what is the problem...

Please, can anyone with some Data East flipper rebuild experience help out?
Added some picures of how it looks now, with it being almost impossible to tighten enough.

JP left flipper rebuild.jpgJP left flipper rebuild.jpg Jp right flipper rebuild2.jpgJp right flipper rebuild2.jpg
#2 9 years ago

This may be obvious, but only one side of that link is threaded. The bolt should slide through the other side. Are you sure the bolt is coming in from the correct side?

#3 9 years ago

Wrong flipper bats.

#4 9 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Wrong flipper bats.

You think so? Might not hurt buying new ones, but still it has been working since I bought it with the former flipper kit installed and with apparently the same sized pawl.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:

This may be obvious, but only one side of that link is threaded. The bolt should slide through the other side. Are you sure the bolt is coming in from the correct side?

Could you elaborate a bit further on what you mean? The bolt must be like this, because it is a red "hat" on top of it that hits the eos. Its just off while screwing the bolt in.

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

You think so? Might not hurt buying new ones, but still it has been working since I bought it with the former flipper kit installed and with apparently the same sized pawl.

Do the flipper bats have the Data East logo on them ?

If you have over tightened the paw bolt you may have stripped the threads causing the flipper bat to move out of position.

I have had some Stern rebuild kits that the paw hole is to tight and I have to pry it open a little to get the flipper shaft in them

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Could you elaborate a bit further on what you mean? The bolt must be like this, because it is a red "hat" on top of it that hits the eos. Its just off while screwing the bolt in.

You must turn the pawl over so the threaded side engages the bolt.

#8 9 years ago

Good reference picture of the underside of a JP:

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album409/28_G?full=1

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

You must turn the pawl over so the threaded side engages the bolt.

Do you mean turn the pawl around 180degrees (upside down), so the flipper shaft comes in, where it now sticks out?

I tried comparing my photo with Chads link, but cant really see any difference :/
The Bats have DE logo so they seem original.

The main problem seems that the shaft is way too thick and solid with metal, more than necessary, have you all had no problem with prying the shaft more open and tightening it again after inserting the bat shaft?

In worst case I'll have to put in the old ones again.

camparison.pngcamparison.png
#10 9 years ago

It is possible that during assembly someone put the bolt through from the wrong side, and rather than closing the gap between the ends of the crank to hold the bat tight, it's just tightening againt the side of the crank.

I made that mistake myself when I had to re-assemble a DE flipper assy when it threw a roll pin, but I have never had one come in from PBL like that. Took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't tighten up no matter how hard I cranked it down.

Mistakes happen, so pull out one of the crank and plunger assemblies, pull off the red plastic doodad and take a real close look at what side of the crank the threading is on. Should be on that far side of the hex cap.

RM

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

It is possible that during assembly someone put the bolt through from the wrong side, and rather than closing the gap between the ends of the crank to hold the bat tight, it's just tightening againt the side of the crank.
I made that mistake myself when I had to re-assemble a DE flipper assy when it threw a roll pin, but I have never had one come in from PBL like that. Took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't tighten up no matter how hard I cranked it down.
Mistakes happen, so pull out one of the crank and plunger assemblies, pull off the red plastic doodad and take a real close look at what side of the crank the threading is on. Should be on that far side of the hex cap.
RM

Like said above, make sure the threaded side of the pawl is closest to the coil in your picture. As you turn the bolt, it should tighten (pull)the pawl against the flipper shaft.

#12 9 years ago

This may illustrate the thought we are all trying to convey. There are threads on only one side of the crank. Make sure your bolt is inserted in to the OTHER side so that the threaded side is pulled toward the non-threaded side and squeezes that crank together.

As to your other questions, yes. I've had to really work (pounding, prying, cursing) to get some DE bats to slip in to position.

IMG_6468.JPGIMG_6468.JPG

#13 9 years ago

Also pry it open with a screwdriver instead of pounding in the flipper bats.

#14 9 years ago

Thanks a lot people, the problem was exactly that the threaded side was the wrong way. I would never have guessed that was the issue hadnt it been for you guys

#15 9 years ago

Glad you got it figured out. Now you will know the next time you replace the flipper mechanisms on DE. (kinda burned into your memory). It is just another one of those quirky DE things..

#16 9 years ago

Learn something new every day.

#17 9 years ago

Haha totally true, learning new stuff all the time! Also, quirky is exact the correct word

#18 9 years ago

Yeah just wiggle and gently pry the crank open with a large flathead screwdriver before removing and replacing/repositioning the bat.

#19 9 years ago

You could have put nylon nut on it if you were too lazy to flip the pawl.

#20 9 years ago

Waiting for my full flipper rebuild kit for DESW and will keep this in mind.

#21 9 years ago

I just did the same thing recently when rebuilding flips on a LW3. You can tighten the bolt all day long but you really aren't tightening anything. You just have to take it all back apart again and flip the pawl over and then you are good.

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