(Topic ID: 243478)

Joust CPR playfield swap - process and tips


By j_m_

3 months ago



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  • 69 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Whysnow
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 23 days ago

A huge work issue aside now (another 'hell' week of 12-14 hour days), I'm back to making progress

the drop target decals arrived and I have all of the 3-bank drop rebuilt with new targets and decals. one of the rollover targets is still soaking in some goo gone to remove it completely

coil sleeves have been replaced for nearly everything as well. I should be able to finish that up tonight or over the weekend

I also just now noticed that the small spike topped metal posts near the spinners use the machine screw instead of the wood screw version (part no. 530-5005-01), I will need to use the forstner bits again and create 2 "pockets" in the underside of the playfield because the posts are directly over areas where the left 3-bank drop bank target brackets attach to underside of the playfield

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#52 22 days ago

serviceability
as I stated in an earlier post, there are 6 points where the lamp and solenoid harnesses pass between the top and bottom side of the play field. when and if you need to remove them, you need to pull out the soldering iron and disconnect those points on the harness

my solution (a tip of the hat goes to chris hutchins for all the wonderful information provided in his thread)
create a couple of smaller, sub-assembly harness sections with molex connectors so that you can easily disconnect that section without having to break out the soldering iron

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on the lamp harness, under the cross over plastics on the topside there are 3 lamps (2 topside and one underneath), creating this sub-assemblies allows me to thread a 2-pin male connector through the hole to the bottom of the playfield
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underneath there is a stapled lamp socket, and by creating a pig-tail harness (each with a 2-pin female connector), I can create a point to connect both the lamps from the top side as well as tie back into the main lamp harness
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when I get to the stage of installing the lamp harness, I'll point out the other 6 areas that are hardwired to stapled sockets that need to have molex connectors installed to make it 100% removeable without soldering/de-soldering

#53 22 days ago

all of the drop target mechs for half of the playfield are now installed and their corresponding switches wired in
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2 coats of poly appear to have provided a nice finish to the stained wood rails
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#54 22 days ago
Quoted from j_m_:

serviceability
as I stated in an earlier post, there are 6 points where the lamp and solenoid harnesses pass between the top and bottom side of the play field. when and if you need to remove them, you need to pull out the soldering iron and disconnect those points on the harness
my solution (a tip of the hat goes to chris hutchins for all the wonderful information provided in his thread)
create a couple of smaller, sub-assembly harness sections with molex connectors so that you can easily disconnect that section without having to break out the soldering iron
[quoted image]
on the lamp harness, under the cross over plastics on the topside there are 3 lamps (2 topside and one underneath), creating this sub-assemblies allows me to thread a 2-pin male connector through the hole to the bottom of the playfield
[quoted image]
underneath there is a stapled lamp socket, and by creating a pig-tail harness (each with a 2-pin female connector), I can create a point to connect both the lamps from the top side as well as tie back into the main lamp harness
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

This is a great tip. Without this the soldering is a big PITA. I wish I would have done this on mine. Nice work j_m_

#55 21 days ago

all of the drop target banks are in and the switches connected. just need to hook up the sling kickers, saucer and trough ejects before moving on to the lamp harness

NOTE: prior to installing the drop target banks, you'll want to install (6) rubber sleeved metal posts and the (2) spear top posts. the reason being is that once those 3-bank target mechs are in, there's not a whole lot of room to work with. additionally, you'll want to make sure that you add washers to the posts before securing the lock nut/nylock nuts to the underside of the playfield to prevent the nut from drawing into the wood and chewing it up.

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#56 18 days ago

with the exception of the flipper assemblies, the switch harness is now complete
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you want to make sure that the sling kickers do not extend too far and hit the face of the rounded slot that they sit in

taking another page from the book of chris hutchins (and ignoring the pre-existing dimples), position the kicker arm so that it sits at its resting position approximately 1/8” from the back of the slot. this will allow the kicker arm to travel the full length of the slot when the coil is energized without striking the face of the slot
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#57 18 days ago

btw, even though marco's has these listed as the "incorrect" flipper bats, they are the ones on my joust (which has original bats) and on the one that I'm currently performing the playfield swap on
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9250-6

does anyone else have these on their machine? (the tips of the "W" is point towards the narrow end of the flipper

#58 17 days ago

another question for joust owners
what type of metal mini post do you have near the spinners at the middle of the playfield?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-3905
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4003
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4177-1

#59 16 days ago

as I'm getting ready to test out my work thus far, I'm finding that the original playfield hanger brackets will not fit. the original playfield is 1/2" thick, while CPR's is 9/16"

the gap on the parts [could] potentially be widened enough to accommodate the additional thickness, but I don't want to risk breaking the spot welds

I'm reaching out to a few metal fabricators to see what it would cost to produce new pieces. how many customers of the CPR playfield would be interested in a new set of brackets if I were to get them made?

#60 13 days ago

I've gone and added the rest of the molex connectors for the lamp harness to make it removable without the use of the soldering iron. this includes (4) 2-pin connectors where the harness is attached to the stapled in lamps near the outer edge of the playfield (under the cross over plastics) and for the game over-tilt-match-high score section, each using a 2-pin and a 4-pin connector

those pen-like paint markers work great for allowing you to match the wire stripe (and band) colors when tying into the original harness

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up next, making the changes to the harness and adding the molex connectors

#61 11 days ago

making progress with the lamp harness (the P2 side is about 95% complete

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the top half (the P1 side) is just positioned in the correct locations so that it's out of the way for now
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the molex connectors are working great (other than the fact that I used the wrong color wires for one connection and need to correct that), however there are still approximately another 8-10 wires in the lamp harness bundle that connect to the coil lugs

williams must have had the lamp harness connectors pulling double-duty and ran some of the high voltage through that bundle (there are 2 connectors leading from the lamp harness into the machine) and these wires are 18awg wires compared to the 20awg and 22awg for the lamp and switch wires

I will probably end up inserting a few 0.093 molex connectors for the wires leading to the coil lugs to make the lamp harness completely removable

#62 11 days ago

Thanks again for being the map out of the new playfield exchange.

#63 11 days ago

a couple more tips that should make everyone's swap a bit easier (I'll add these back to the appropriate sections as well

prior to installing the drop target banks, you'll want to install (6) rubber sleeve metal posts and the (2) spear top posts. the reason being is that once those 3-bank target mechs are in, there's not a whole lot of room to work in those areas. additionally, you'll want to make sure that you add washers to the posts before securing the lock nut or nylock nuts to the underside of the playfield to prevent the nut from drawing into the wood

I did a great job labeling the switch harness using those ID zip cables, and thought that I did the same with the lamp harness, but it turns out that I probably should have labeled every single socket (and taken more photos of their positions and orientation prior to removal. there are quite a few sockets strung next to each other in the harness where they are grouped together closely under the playfield, and it may not be clear which one goes where when you go to put it back

(fortunately, I have [my] joust sitting in another nearby room with the playfield up in service position to refer to, but I know that this isn't a scenario that most of you have the ability to rely on

#64 6 days ago

I can get the playfield hangers made for a price of $64 per set of four (4) plus shipping if I can get at least 23 people to commit (for a total of 25 sets)

pm me if you're interested

these would be done just like the originals, zinc plated with the stickers "LIFT FROM THIS SIDE ONLY" and "LIFT FROM OTHER SIDE ONLY" applied

edit:
so far, only 1 person has stated that they would be interested in a new set of hangers. I know for a fact that CPR sold at least 60 joust playfields, so unless all these people intend to route four 2" (w) x 1-1/2" (l) x 1/16" (d) sections on the bottom of their playfields, they are going to find it a bit difficult to fit the brackets

edit:
2019.sep.11 - 6 sets accounted for, 19 to go with the first fabricator if need be

#65 4 days ago

Put me down for 2 sets of bracket hangers.

Also try stainlesssupply.com if you haven't already. They have made laser cut things for me in the past. they will also bend and weld stuff. Usually very good pricing even for one-off parts(not 25 sets).

-Tom

#66 4 days ago

thanks tom

there are 3 other metal fabricators in my city that I was planning on reaching out to as well as marc (marco specialties) and terry (pinball life)

does anyone have the ability to create the cad files that most of these houses use? I can chat with you and give you the specific changes from the original that should be made to the files

#67 4 days ago

I can make Solidworks Drawings.

#68 1 day ago

the lamp harness is now complete

in addition to the molex connectors for the stpled sockets, I added another 8 single molex connectors for the wires running to the flippers and 3-bank drops

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work will start on the solenoid harness tomorrow where I’ll be adding another 24 molex connectors to make it easier to service when things like coil stops and sleeves need to be changed out

#69 1 day ago

looking good and thanks

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