I'm very new to this pinball world, so forgive me if I don't explain correctly. I was able to pick up a Jokerz! that was in pretty rough shape but was mostly able to get everything working except for a couple of things. The main thing is that the ball will not kick out of the hole in the top left-hand side of the game. Those who know this game should know what I'm talking about. The game recognizes that the ball went in and I get the points and all the lights go off..ect, but the ball doesn't kick out. I can see that someone had previously extended the wires to the coil so I took off the tape, re-soldered the wires and re-taped (maybe I should just resoldered to the coil). I tested the coil with a meter and it seems to be ok. I believe that I traced the wire back to the J4 slot on the board (can anybody with schematics confirm?) and I noticed that the switch (in blue) goes off when the ball goes into the hole and won't shut off until I lift the PF up to get the ball out. Anybody have any ideas here? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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Thank you all for the help! It is sure satisfying to be new to this, get help, and to find the problem. I was able to download the manual and read up on how to run the diagnostics. Sure enough. All signs pointed to the Q31 transistor and the other problem I was having was because of the Q16 transistor as the wheel lights would not turn on when "draw poker" was initiated. Come to find out that Q16 is completely missing and Q31 looks fried up. Q17 also looks a little dirty but is working fine. So my next question is, is this repairable? Order new transistors? Or do I run the risk of further damaging anything? I have some soldering skills so I'm hoping I can fix this on my own. Any thoughts? Thank you again all so much for pointing me in the right direction!

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Forgive me, but how do I tell what pre driver is connected to Q31? I see that @pinkopf says it is 27. I believe that but for my own learning, where do I find that in the schematics? I spent the better part of 45 min trying to read through the manual but can’t make sense of it.

Ok! That make sense. Thank you for pointing that out. I ordered the transistors for Q16 and Q31. If I can test the Q27 and it is good. I'll replace them and hopefully I will be good to go. Thanks for the help! I will post my results.

Parts should be in today. Tested the Q27 and it seems fine. So hopefully replacing the other two transistors will do the trick. The other major problem I have has to do with the power supply. No idea where this pin came from or when the last time it was serviced so I'm guessing the caps on the power supply are not great? My issue is that it takes several minutes to "warm up". I turn it on and I will get a loud hum from the speaks and then the system will flick on and off. Staying on longer each time and then it will stay on permanently. The game will start and everything will work as it should (except for the trouble I'm having with the Q31 and Q16) but the sound won't be normal until the 1st ball of the second game drains (usually that is when). I will get speech at the start and then the music and sound will kick in after awhile. Once everything is kicked on and working...the music plays fine but then when ever the speech comes on, it will come on with a loud hum behind it. Would it be worth it to just get a new rottendog power supply? Or try to rebuilt the power supply? Or is this a deeper issue and something else I should be looking for? No fuses are blown or do blow when powering on or playing if that helps.

That helps alot! I will check that all but that sounds exactly what is going on. I'll do more research on how to rebuild the +5v part of the power supply as compared to just getting a new one.

I got the transisters in today. I was able to replace Q16 without any problems and that worked!! Problem solved there with the flashers for the "draw poker"

Q31 was a different story. I posted the pictures. When I removed the transister I found that one of the pins was bent onto the top of board to connect on the top. There must have been damage and that was the only way to make the connections. I put everything back as normal and tried to connect it to the board using solder. The is the first time Ive ever touched a board or done soldering but I thought I would give it a try and that didn't work. Any ideas? Could a guy just use small wires to make that jump connection? Or is there a better way?

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Update: I ordered a new power supply. I found a good deal on a Rottendog for $80 + shipping. I did notice that not all the screws were there for the soundboard so I will plan on replacing all the hardware that hold all the boards in this weekend. There are several missing from other boards as well. I have done some research on how to repair a trace. I think it will be better long term to do that before trying to run jumpers with the wire. I should be able to get to that this weekend. If that doesn't work, I will replace the Q27 pre-driver. It tests out ok but who knows. It looks like a bit of a hack job was done before I got it. Thank you all for the continued help on this project. Much appreciated!

I made an attempt to fix what was done. This didn't fix the problem. I guess the next step is to try and replace the Q27 transistor but I'm pretty sure that is good as it tested fine. It looks like it had been replaced at some point too. I'm wondering if the reason this game was for sale was because of this issue and they couldn't figure it out. If it isn't the Q27 transistor, what else could it be? Are there people who I could send the board out in the mail to have it fixed?

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I tried removing the transistor to test it better / just to double check and 1 of the pins broke. I ordered a handful of new ones that should be here monday. Will update the thread after I get a chance to replace it.

I assume that if the resistor bar was fried that none of the other things connected to it would work? As the only thing that doesn't work is the double score blinker and left upper kick out, I'm guessing the bar is ok and it the problem is with the Q31 / Q27. This is my first solid state pin so, I'm still learning. How would I test that bar?

I got the new transistor for Q27 in and I put that in the board. No such luck

I'm not sure how to check the continuity of the entire circuit. I attached a picture that is color coded...hopefully, this makes sense. Sorry to be such a noob. This first solid state is beyond me but I'm trying to learn. I placed my MM on continuity and got the following results:

Pink - 726
Blue - 0 with a beep
Purple - 702
Yellow - 1322
Red - 1429

I'm really hoping I don't have to buy a whole new board to fix this issue. Any ideas or things to try?

I also got my new power supply and the machine boots right up. Very nice!

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I'm putting the MM on 20K under the Ohm section. Can I assume that the common leg on the resistor bar is the one in the middle (marked with the red arrow)? The one that doesn't have any traces leading to it? If so, I got a reading of 5.43 on the MM testing it on the trace that leads from Q27. Did I do that correctly?

I would think that if the coil was bad, that at least the double score lights in the head would still blink as they are controlled by Q31 as well? They do not work either in the game or test mode. As far as I can tell it is only that kicker and those lights that are not working on the whole game.

At what point should I consider just replacing R47 and SR7 as well? Or is that jumping the gun?

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Very interesting!! - If I set the MM to 2000 ohms and test using the black lead on the far right (in the picture) and test on every connection on the bar using the red lead, they each read in a range from 1700-1760. Except for the middle that has no trace going to it as well as the trace in question coming from Q27/Q31, they both read a O.

Might that suggest that the resistance bar is bad and needs to be replaced? Out of all the repairs that it looks like have been done on the board regarding Q27/Q31, the SR7 bar has not been replaced. Might be a good place to try next?

I get 0.06 on all of those. And I get the same on R49,48,45,44,41,40,37,36...ect. Seems as if they are all ok.

It was a cheap tester from Amazon. I just ordered a new one that has auto on it. Hopefully, that will help! I needed to order some parts for an EM machine I'm working on (it is going much better than this one ....) so I went ahead and ordered the SR7 resistor and the U19 chip as well. Just in case and I'll have the parts on hand once I get the new tester. Thanks for sticking with me on this. I'm definitely learning a lot!

I’m not sure what is going on. If I set my MM to 20k ohms and put the black lead on the far right on SR7 (of the picture) and then go down the line with the red lead I get 1.7,1.7, 1.74, 1.83, 2.7 (on the blank one), 2.7 on the trace from Q27, 1.77, 1.72, 1.72. I assume because it says it should be 2.7k that the resistor bar is ok? Dang, so what next?

I get a reading of 3.7 on the coil. I know it isn’t the coil because the “double score” flashers don’t work as well. And they are connected to q27 and q31 as well. Unless I’m missing something there. Which is highly possible!

If I set the MM to 200 they read 67.3

This is a 600 mA and the manual has it needing to be 500 mA. I assumed that as long as it was 500 mA or above it would be correct. However, I do have some 500 mA coming in the mail from Marco's.

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D2-C6 - beep
P1-R1 - beep
P2-?? - ?
P3-D1 - beep
P3-RA1 - beep
D3-Ground - beep

Ah! I follow you. P2 goes to a slot on SR9 and it beeps. So all of them have continuity.

How do I test that? I do have a replacement for U19 on order. Just in case.

Yes! I ordered the socket as well. Hopefully, this is the problem.

Unfortunately, I ordered the second as that is what is what Marco's had suggested and is what is currently on the board. Why don't I want the second one?

Is there a way to test U19?