(Topic ID: 62403)

Jokerz! CPU board hack job wires - leave alone or fix?

By Flippingr8

10 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Schwaggs
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#1 10 years ago

My newly purchased Jokerz has a few CPU board issues, including this one: found hack job wires on the back, plastered down with scotch tape which I have removed. One of the wires was either purposefully cut or fractured somehow - see red arrow. The machine appears to be functioning ok other than battery holder issues which I am working on (leakage / corrosion on terminals causing "Factory Settings" message on booting every time. Have neutralized the corrosion with vinegar and alcohol and am installing a remote holder).

Is it best to leave these wires alone, remove, or do something else? These kinds of "repairs" are very aggravating.

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#2 10 years ago

Jumper wires are pretty common, but if they are working now, why not leave em? My only thought is the wires seem awfully thin.

#3 10 years ago

wires are ok, called KYNAR special for pcb repair the 2 pia s 41 42 were changed poorly and the trace of through hole was destroyed ,
I suggest to use the schematic and check with the beep set on diode test of the DM the traces ,,check the trace of the broken KYNAR according to schematic ,,,, those pia s are form display drive ,,, you might a have a segment , coma , point ,,,missing ,,,,,

I suggest to change the bat holder with a remote one located on backbox

#4 10 years ago

They seem correct enough, though not pretty. From what I can tell they look soldered good, and if working do not neet replaced, except for the long broken strand. I would adhesive the longer ones to the board - as it will be easy for those to move with vibration and begin to break later. Consult the IPC guide section about jumpers - it's what we use in the pro electronics world:
http://www.ipc.org/4.0_Knowledge/4.1_Standards/7721Change%201.pdf

#5 10 years ago

As time goes on the chances of buying a working machine with pristine untouched boards continues to go down. I've bought working machines which have been repaired and had to rework them when things didnt work right. The repairs gave me a starting point to look for the problem. If it works leave it. If not, you know where to start.

viperrwk

#6 10 years ago

I can't stress enough how happy I am to never use batteries again in my Jokerz, Taxi, and others! Get a Pinforge NVRAM chip and replace your volatile memory chip, (Socket Required) and no more batteries.

#7 10 years ago

Memory capacitors work just as well NVRAM and a lot less expensive.

#8 10 years ago

Doesn't the memory cap go dead after extended non use, as they hold a charge? I'm 5 months of non use now, and still holding memory.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from HighSpeed1:

Doesn't the memory cap go dead after extended non use, as they hold a charge? I'm 5 months of non use now, and still holding memory.

They work pretty darn well don't they! Depends on games ram type and the cap installed - there are so many.

Don't know why folks insist on paying 4 times as much for NVRAM instead of memory caps. NVRAM offers no significant improvements over 20 year old capacitor technology. I guess they've got the money to burn.

#10 10 years ago

Can you guys point me to where I can find instructions on how to install a memory capacitor and which one to use? I have a Williams system 6 machine if that makes a difference. Thanks!

#12 10 years ago

I am a fan of coin style batteries now. I bought 50 lithium CR2032 batteries off of ebay that will never leak for cheap (i think less than $10) and the 2032 battery holders from Tayda are 10 cents each.

That repair was done because the battery ate up traces under the holder. The same thing on my F-14. Those traces i think carry sound signals to the ribbon cable. If everything is working, i wouldnt mess with it.

#13 10 years ago

I'm just curious to know how you plan on "fixing" the wires. They are there fixing traces that need to be there for the game to work properly.

That broken wire on the far right needs reconnected. It controls one of the sound or display lines. You will likely be missing a sound/voice call or display segments once you get the game up and running if you don't reconnect the broken wire.

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I'm just curious to know how you plan on "fixing" the wires. They are there fixing traces that need to be there for the game to work properly.
That broken wire on the far right needs reconnected. It controls one of the sound or display lines. You will likely be missing a sound/voice call or display segments once you get the game up and running if you don't reconnect the broken wire.

+1 correct. The jumpers are the fix, they look correct except for the broken one, which should be replaced. The longer ones need to be adhered to the board to prevent snagging on something or vibration working them loose. What more do you need, a fancy dress and enter the board in a beauty contest? Fix the problems, make the board work, put it in the machine and play. It gets old listening to the bantering about how 'purdy' a fix is supposed to be in some folks minds, and the negative use of the words 'hack'. They're broken pinball machines and fixed reasonably well they will likely work a very long time regardless how non-beauty-contest the fix is. FUNCTIONAL is key #1, longevity is key #2. Who the hell cares what it LOOKS like?

#15 10 years ago

To the original poster of this thread.
If you are interested in the Pinforge brand NVRAM which takes the place of the CMOS chip U25, I'll buy and ship one to you free!
Hell send me the board, and I'll install it and test it too.!!!!!!

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