(Topic ID: 127663)

Jokerz! Club. Quiet! We are playing.

By oohlou

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 540 posts
  • 106 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by daly124
  • Topic is favorited by 53 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rotordave.
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#302 2 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

When I redid my jokerz, I discovered that several of those posts were staked in permanently, for some damn reason. I lucked out with spares, but you can measure them and pick up some at Marcos at the same time.

I’ve shopped dozens of Sys11s.

I just treat those posts as disposable. 50/50 they snap off, or spin the T Nut. If they play up, I just cut them off and replace them.

Pays to have a stash of posts and T nuts on hand.

rd

#308 2 years ago
Quoted from Morinack:

I get my connectors and inserts (Molex / IDC) from Mouser.com. Biggest challenge is looking for the right parts. Once you know what you are looking for and save the P/N it is the cheapest path.

Pinball life have the original style push on type, and the tool.

I use those. Looks original and will last forever in a home use situation. Hey - they lasted 20 years running all the time in an arcade.

I bought one of these Molex kits yeeears ago, topped it up many many times. And gone through a few of the tools too. Pretty much all Sys11s will need at least the GI plugs replaced.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=umick

rd

2 months later
#382 2 years ago
Quoted from WestOz:

Thanks Morinack
Much appreciated

You’ll need to cut those yellow wires back a few inches to get some fresh wire. Should be plenty of slack in the loom to pull up.

The back of the interconnect board might be a bit toasty … check all the pads and traces are ok before installing the new Molex header.

I just repaired a board just like that - it was so toasted I had to run wires from the new header to their final destinations. From memory 4 traces are on the top of the board and 4 on the back.

rd

#384 2 years ago
Quoted from Zee:

The header pins are completely missing on his board, so there's extra work there to install new ones.

Yeah, that’s what my post is referring to.

Sorry if it wasn’t clear - I have clarified it.

rd

5 months later
#404 2 years ago
Quoted from WestOz:

I've been offered some new mirror blades to suit a Bally Williams. Will these fit a Jokerz! ?.

To fit what Bally Williams? There are a lot of different ones.

You want ones to fit a System 11B.

rd

3 months later
#414 1 year ago
Quoted from Oscope:

A little help please with some playfield wiring
Trying to get a project Jokerz going that has had hacks applied
I have an unplugged connector under playfield near the far right-rear kick out coil (draw poker behind the spinner) - I cannot see any mating connector anywhere
I would appreciate if someone could check your game and advise - wire colors to the 2-pin connector are are 2 red and 1 brown-red
Thanks
[quoted image]

Looks like someone removed your lamp relay … bottom right corner, you can see the white standoffs there with no board.

rd

3 months later
#420 1 year ago
Quoted from Gillen:

Also I found this strange thing in the bottom of the cab when I bought the game. Is this for the game or something not belonging at all in a Jokerz?

It’s the cap off the end of an electric motor.

Probably off the end of the ramp raising motor.

rd

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1 week later
#423 1 year ago
Quoted from Gillen:

For the sound I'm giving up. I will sell the game because I hate it with this sound buzz...

Jokerz is famous for its sound buzz. Can’t say it worries me but hey - I just play the things.

Have you read this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jokerz-hum-solved

(Read that thread right to the end - his fix was pretty simple in the end)

And there’s other stuff on the net if you search around.

rd

1 week later
#426 1 year ago
Quoted from Gillen:

It sounds like that when flashers are active. I already tried with a new Pinled Power supply board, didn't help. I have some resistors on order that I will try and use for the speakers.

Did you try the things in the thread I linked?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jokerz-hum-solved#post-5780190

rd

2 weeks later
#431 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremulon:

I bought a Multimeter.
For the record, the Fuse in question was F1 on the Aux Power Driver Board.

Great investment!

rd

#433 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremulon:

Bought some replacement fuses. Plugged the proper voltage fuse into F1 and turned it on. It blew right away.
Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this?
The message on boot up says Check switch 15 ramp up and check switch 16 ramp down. Then "Ramp did not go up, Ramp did not go down"
I have checked these switches in Test Mode and they check out when manually pushing them. So the switches aren't the issue.
This all started when I began installing light strips and lighting the flipper buttons, tapping power from the coin door.
I had a GI fuse blow and replaced it which fixed the issue.
I put in one more lighting strip using Matrix lighting bulbs as a power source, now this Center ramp and TR eject solenoid failure issue.
I don't know how do proceed.

You have a short on the line that F1 fuses.

If you look at the schematic you see that F1 runs to coils 17,19,21,22.

So, something on that line is popping the fuse.

According to the manual: it’s the red/white wire that runs to the three pops and a flasher “centre ramp flasher”

So check all those things and see what’s up.

Check the tabs on the flasher, make sure they aren’t touching. Or shorting on something. Take the bulb out, they can short. Check the pop coils for brown paper or something on the coil tabs shorting.

rd

PS if you haven’t got a manual, download one, and the schematics:
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1308
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#435 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremulon:

Thank you again for finding that.

No worries. Throw me a thumbs up for thanks.

At this stage, maybe it’s best to get a local tech guy around. Watch what he does, you’ll pick up the tricks over time.

rd

2 weeks later
#454 1 year ago
Quoted from JoeChamp:

I tried changing from Easy to Ex-Hard the jackpot lights don't respond to those changes. I did notice however, that when you start a game the digital display indicates the correct JACKPOT VALUE for the light that is blinking on the backboard.
Also let me correct a statement I made earlier regarding the UPF lanes - these lanes advance the bonus inserts on the playfield, I'm not sure about the effect they have on the Jackpot lights on the BB. And to be awarded the jackpot I had to enter multiball and make the center ramp 4 times. Then the jackpot amount was awarded consistent with the light on the BB that was blinking.
I am wondering if this is Game ROM issue? I am going to order new ROMs and see what effect that has on the game. I have two different versions of the chips on the CPU, JOKERZ U27 ROM 2 Rev 1 and JOKERZ U26 ROM 1 Rev 3
If this doesn't fix it then its going to just be the way it is and that's it
[quoted image]

Try the L6 roms.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/sys11roms.html

rd

#456 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

I don't think either of us understands how the jackpot is advanced in a game! Read the manual until you understand it, then tell the rest of us.
Giving up is not allowed.

Generally, SYS11s build up the JPs with switch hits.

I have fixed JP roms in most of my SYS11s for tournament use.

My Jokerz has a fixed JP of 4 million.

rd

6 months later
#494 11 months ago
Quoted from pinkid:

Anyone else have issues with the draw poker kickout hole not getting the ball out?

Rebuild the lockout mech — disassemble, clean all the crud off it, new coil sleeve.

Should be good to go.

Remember these things are 35 years old now.

rd

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