You need a new plunger. Page 51 of the manual.

https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-plunger-and-link-2-plunger.html

(In theory, you could just replace the link, but the amount of labor knocking the roll-pin out and getting it back in place isn't worth it IMO, unless you're rebuilding a bunch of plungers.)

..except I believe he's got a busted left kick-back, and not a flipper issue. (per the pictures he posted)

Slowly putting one back together.
The hardtop install went smoothly.

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Nothing drastically off.
But yes, I've been using the Dremel a bunch to widen/elongate a bunch of holes to line up better with the existing holes.
Nothing that went beyond any artwork/key-lines.
It was pretty much as expected.

There were only one or two inserts that showed a tiny bit of wood, but i decided to paint/outline all of them in black just in case. Did my precise alignment at the bottom of the PF, figuring that's were you're looking & closest to.

Another unrelated thing I did, was the CPR plastics set is missing artwork on the back-right corner plastic. (Granted, it's buried under the ramp & upper PF... but I'd know.) So I scanned, cleaned up and water slide printed it fresh. (it was a pain, because I had to double-up on the decals because the black laser print just wasn't heavy enough.)

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Thanks... The only thing I'm not refurbishing yet, is the wood cabinet. (it's a "6" if that)
But all the posts & screw heads get tossed in the drill, and polished with Novus 2.

All underside assy's get pulled, disassembled, Ultrasonic cleaned.

Here's what part of the old PF looked like as I was tearing down. Lots of shattered posts, and dull metal.

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On my Jokerz, I snapped probably 70% of the T-Nut'd posts. (blame the Loctite doing it's job.)
They were all 6-32 T-Nuts and post screws.

At first, I bought a 25-pack of 6-32 T-Nuts from Menards Hardware, and I could not get them to fit in the existing holes. So I ordered a dozen from PBL, but those would not fit either.

I ended up using same size drill bit and gently reeming out each existing T-Net hole from the bottom of the playfield. I was then able to tap in the T-Nuts into the bottom.

And yeah, for the ones that spun, I ended up Dremel cutting off the tops (the jewel posts were pretty trashed anyway), and pushing the cut-off posts w/t-nut out from the top.

On mine, the left two, that were screwed in, are 11/32". And the free-hanging right ones are 9/16".
And I'd say the screws are a #6-32x3/4" and a #8-32x3/4".

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NM

Only 3 screws here too.
(maybe to give the kickout arm that tiny bit more clearance?)