(Topic ID: 127663)

Jokerz! Club. Quiet! We are playing.

By oohlou

6 years ago


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  • 399 posts
  • 90 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by onujpt
  • Topic is favorited by 43 Pinsiders

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There are 399 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
#351 3 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Mind if I ask which specific LEDs you used? I'm debating whether to go with 2SMD, 1SMD or Comet's "retro" which is a dimmed 1SMD I believe.

2smd natural white frosted are my favorite.

#352 3 months ago

Hi all!

Experiencing an issue where when I lock a ball, it immediately kicks the ball back out and puts a new ball down the lane to play. If I manage to hit the ramp again, and then “lock” two balls it puts me in ‘Jokerz! Wild! Mode” and I can begin to play for the jackpot….

Any idea what would cause this? Or how to fix? :/

#353 3 months ago

Anyone know the size of the tubular rivets for the upper playfield? Also, a good source to get them from?

#354 3 months ago

I just picked up a Jokerz! I accidentally revered the 12vdc feed to the poker wheel board. It has stopped working. I can’t seem to find the wheel schematic in manual. Does anyone know of a poker wheel schematic available to download?

TIA.

#355 3 months ago
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:

I just picked up a Jokerz! I accidentally revered the 12vdc feed to the poker wheel board. It has stopped working. I can’t seem to find the wheel schematic in manual. Does anyone know of a poker wheel schematic available to download?
TIA.

It's my understanding that the Motor Control Board (D-12045) that was used in Jokerz was also used in Cyclone and Riverboat Gambler. Here's the schematic that I found for Cyclone so you should be able to use it!
JOKERZ WHEEL (resized).PNGJOKERZ WHEEL SCHEMATICS (resized).PNG

#356 3 months ago

It's also the same board used in scared stiff.

#357 3 months ago
Quoted from onujpt:

Hi all!
Experiencing an issue where when I lock a ball, it immediately kicks the ball back out and puts a new ball down the lane to play. If I manage to hit the ramp again, and then “lock” two balls it puts me in ‘Jokerz! Wild! Mode” and I can begin to play for the jackpot….
Any idea what would cause this? Or how to fix? :/

Check the diodes on the relevant switches. could be backfeed.

#358 3 months ago

I used tiny little screws and bolts instead of rivets — it fit perfectly. I think they were M4

Quoted from meSz:

Anyone know the size of the tubular rivets for the upper playfield? Also, a good source to get them from?

#359 3 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Anyone know the size of the tubular rivets for the upper playfield? Also, a good source to get them from?

I also used screws and did a write-up on it 20 years ago:

https://www.videoengine.com/pins/jokerz/jokerzpix/level3/pix03.htm
https://www.videoengine.com/pins/jokerz/jokerzpix/level3/pix04.htm

#360 3 months ago
Quoted from Morinack:

Check the diodes on the relevant switches. could be backfeed.

Ended up having my tech guy come look at it and thinks it might be a bad board. But open to other thoughts.

No shorts on the board. All relays tested good. Bridge 2 was replaced, it was shorted. All relays were resoldered. Anyone have any other thoughts on the cause?

#361 3 months ago
Quoted from onujpt:

Ended up having my tech guy come look at it and thinks it might be a bad board. But open to other thoughts.
No shorts on the board. All relays tested good. Bridge 2 was replaced, it was shorted. All relays were resoldered. Anyone have any other thoughts on the cause?

I would focus on switch 46. check the diodes on 45 and 46. both switches need to be made for the solenoid to fire.
It sounds like the Lock 2 switch (46) is always on. Could be out of adjustment or the switch has failed.
Did this just start happening or always this way?

Pic barely shows the 2nd switch.

Screen Shot 2021-09-09 at 9.20.12 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-09-09 at 9.20.31 AM (resized).png
1 week later
#362 80 days ago
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:

I just picked up a Jokerz! I accidentally revered the 12vdc feed to the poker wheel board. It has stopped working. I can’t seem to find the wheel schematic in manual. Does anyone know of a poker wheel schematic available to download?
TIA.

Quoted from meSz:

It's my understanding that the Motor Control Board (D-12045) that was used in Jokerz was also used in Cyclone and Riverboat Gambler. Here's the schematic that I found for Cyclone so you should be able to use it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for the schematic. I found some bad components (7805, LM339) replaced with new components, but I still get the err error in wheel test. Motor spins only counter clockwise and way too slow. Optic switch is working in switch test. Don’t really what to look at next. Any help would be appreciated. TIA

#363 80 days ago

Odd, are you sure about polarity?
Wheel should only ever spin clockwise when looking at it.

Where/how did you reverse the 12VDC?
Is that the only location you worked on?

#364 80 days ago
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#365 80 days ago
Quoted from Morinack:

[quoted image][quoted image]

I accidentally reversed the 12vdc at the interconnect board connector 12 feed.

Also, The schematic doesn’t match the pin traces on my board for LM339. Schematic shows pins 5,6,
9, and 10 as connected. On board 6 is going to R6 and 5 has no trace. I’m confused with that for sure. Optic is working in switch test and during wheel test but wheel is very slow and display shows err error, Home switch which is opto 1 think, is working. Don’t know what err is relating to. Trying to figure out what voltage should be present at motor pins 1&2 and 5&6

Motor is a 9 Vdc motor and I’m getting only 7 volt to motor at pins 1&2 and 5&6. Not sure where problem could be.

#366 80 days ago
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:

I accidentally reversed the 12vdc at the interconnect board connector 12 feed.
Also, The schematic doesn’t match the pin traces on my board for LM339. Schematic shows pins 5,6,
9, and 10 as connected. On board 6 is going to R6 and 5 has no trace. I’m confused with that for sure. Optic is working in switch test and during wheel test but wheel is very slow and display shows err error, Home switch which is opto 1 think, is working. Don’t know what err is relating to. Trying to figure out what voltage should be present at motor pins 1&2 and 5&6
Motor is a 9 Vdc motor and I’m getting only 7 volt to motor at pins 1&2 and 5&6. Not sure where problem could be.

I believe the err is a homing issue. My test shows it briefly at the beginning of the test.
I'll take another look at what I have.

#367 79 days ago
Quoted from Morinack:

I believe the err is a homing issue. My test shows it briefly at the beginning of the test.
I'll take another look at what I have.

Here is a video of what I’m getting in wheel test

https://www.facebook.com/groups/609432482409545/permalink/4786371368048948/

#368 79 days ago

Go back to the Home Switch. See pic.from manual.

Safe to assume you checked all diodes

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#369 79 days ago

I believe high speed is not coming on. low speed is normal but home seems to be an issue.
were you advancing the motor test manually or on auto?

#370 79 days ago

I am sending you a video of normal behavior in FB thread.
First it runs high speed(HS) then slows down. Looks like you are not getting the 12 volt to the motor for HS.

Is 12VDC making it to the motor board?
If not the problem lies back towards the Interconnect or Main board.

#371 79 days ago

Has anyone installed the playfield overlay that's forsale on ebay for 200? Any thoughts on these?

#372 79 days ago

So in a simple test.
leads across 6 and 7 on P1 with machine on i get 12VDC (11.84 on my meter)
in wheel test mode (auto) across 4 and 7 or 5 and 7 i get 6VDC when activated.

I will pull the board to look over the traces you mentioned.

#373 79 days ago

i was able to somewhat simulate your symptom by un plugging J17 on interconnect.
pins J17-1 and J17-8 are P1-1 and P1-3 on the motor schematic.

Motor still spun at speed but gave me 256 err.
Make sure it is seated correctly on interconnect board.

#374 78 days ago
Quoted from Morinack:

i was able to somewhat simulate your symptom by un plugging J17 on interconnect.
pins J17-1 and J17-8 are P1-1 and P1-3 on the motor schematic.
Motor still spun at speed but gave me 256 err.
Make sure it is seated correctly on interconnect board.

Ok I’ll check that. Do you think this motor will work with Jokerz.

https://www.robotshop.com/en/rbsoy02-soyo-unipolar-stepper-motor.html

I think my motor is bad. I’m getting correct pulses from cpu transistors but only slow speed works.

Marco wants $69 ft it the motor. The above motor is $16

#375 78 days ago
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:

Ok I’ll check that. Do you think this motor will work

Honestly couldn't say.
Specs look right and hole pattern looks close in the PDF.

20210921_175125 (resized).jpg
#376 72 days ago

I've just been going through the backbox looking at the boards and have noticed this on the 4 wires going into the GI input on the Interconnect Board. These wires appear to come from the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet.

I do have a couple on GI lights out but I think they are just blown globes.

Has anyone go any ideas of what's going on there?

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#377 72 days ago
Quoted from WestOz:

I've just been going through the backbox looking at the boards and have noticed this on the 4 wires going into the GI input on the Interconnect Board. These wires appear to come from the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet.
I do have a couple on GI lights out but I think they are just blown globes.
Has anyone go any ideas of what's going on there?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like someone removed the IDC and soldered the wires directly to the driver board. That whole mess needs to be rebuilt.

#378 72 days ago

Like Zee said.

The bare wire is to connect the first pin, then the wire is looped back to the same connector for a second pin.
Somebody bonded the pinouts on the board with solder.

#379 72 days ago

Thanks guys. Does anyone have a picture of the IDC connected with the wiring setup?

#380 71 days ago
Quoted from WestOz:

Thanks guys. Does anyone have a picture of the IDC connected with the wiring setup?

Just happened to have the head open.

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#381 71 days ago

Thanks Morinack

Much appreciated

#382 69 days ago
Quoted from WestOz:

Thanks Morinack
Much appreciated

You’ll need to cut those yellow wires back a few inches to get some fresh wire. Should be plenty of slack in the loom to pull up.

The back of the interconnect board might be a bit toasty … check all the pads and traces are ok before installing the new Molex header.

I just repaired a board just like that - it was so toasted I had to run wires from the new header to their final destinations. From memory 4 traces are on the top of the board and 4 on the back.

rd

#383 69 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

You’ll need to cut those yellow wires a few inches to get some fresh wire. Should be plenty of slack in the loom to pull up.
The back of the interconnect board might be a bit toasty … check all the pads and traces are ok.
I just did one - it was so toasted I had to run wires from the new plug to their final destinations. From memory 4 traces are on the top of the board and 4 on the back.
rd

The header pins are completely missing on his board, so there's extra work there to install new ones.

#384 69 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

The header pins are completely missing on his board, so there's extra work there to install new ones.

Yeah, that’s what my post is referring to.

Sorry if it wasn’t clear - I have clarified it.

rd

1 week later
#385 58 days ago
Quoted from Morinack:

I would focus on switch 46. check the diodes on 45 and 46. both switches need to be made for the solenoid to fire.
It sounds like the Lock 2 switch (46) is always on. Could be out of adjustment or the switch has failed.
Did this just start happening or always this way?
Pic barely shows the 2nd switch.
[quoted image][quoted image]

No luck. I should have added that in test mode, all of the A side coils were starting to fire randomly. Some would activate with others, the knocker was firing with everything on the A side. The ball would lock as it should, but as a new ball is put into the trough the locked ball fires out also.

My tech cleaned the board up and tested everything again, still no luck. He wants to send it out for repair - or find/buy a new or refurbished board. Anyone have any thoughts on this for someone who's not tech savvy to pins at all? lol - Anything new seems sold out online. He has a guy to send it to but is currently on a 3 month turnaround time. ugh.

#386 58 days ago
Quoted from onujpt:

No luck. I should have added that in test mode, all of the A side coils were starting to fire randomly. Some would activate with others, the knocker was firing with everything on the A side. The ball would lock as it should, but as a new ball is put into the trough the locked ball fires out also.
My tech cleaned the board up and tested everything again, still no luck. He wants to send it out for repair - or find/buy a new or refurbished board. Anyone have any thoughts on this for someone who's not tech savvy to pins at all? lol - Anything new seems sold out online. He has a guy to send it to but is currently on a 3 month turnaround time. ugh.

Contact John the owner.....they have excellent customer service

http://www.eldoradogames.com/

1 week later
#387 50 days ago

Having just had my boards serviced I've put them back in and have lost the following aren't working...both flippers, both slingshots and the multiball kicker from the centre ramp.

Does anyone have any ideas what may be wrong? Are these all linked to the one circuit, fuse etc?

#388 50 days ago

Sorry guys...rookie mistake by me. I hadn't fully pushed the connector onto the Aux Power Board at J12. All working now.

#389 48 days ago

Could any Jokerz owners let me know the playfield length for this game? Is it still 20.25x42" or did Williams move to a 46" long playfield by this time?

1 week later
#390 37 days ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Could any Jokerz owners let me know the playfield length for this game? Is it still 20.25x42" or did Williams move to a 46" long playfield by this time?

Just so happen to have my playfield out and measured it. Came to 20 1/8 x 42 1/4

#391 37 days ago
Quoted from nealk77:

Just so happen to have my playfield out and measured it. Came to 20 1/8 x 42 1/4

Thanks nealk77. Routine work or are you working on a restore? Was just playing this game at Silver Ballroom last week.

#392 37 days ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Thanks nealk77. Routine work or are you working on a restore? Was just playing this game at Silver Ballroom last week.

Complete restore. Changing everything from chrome to gold. New overlay, plastics, flippers, and pop bumpers. Basically turning it into a new machine.
I've been working on that middle ramp bridge deal for a week or two now. Created a new graphic and now looking for the right size clear plastic to use to go on top. I've spent way too many hours on this game, but it's been a great learning experience.

IMG_3394 (resized).jpg
#393 37 days ago
Quoted from nealk77:

Complete restore. Changing everything from chrome to gold. New overlay, plastics, flippers, and pop bumpers. Basically turning it into a new machine.
I've been working on that middle ramp bridge deal for a week or two now. Created a new graphic and now looking for the right size clear plastic to use to go on top. I've spent way too many hours on this game, but it's been a great learning experience.
[quoted image]

Oh, and I was unaware SB had Jokerz. I'll need to try it out. The last time I was at CP Pinball, there was a Jokerz in the back getting worked on. Sounds like this game is getting trendy (or simply just my wish that it goes up in value...).

#394 36 days ago
Quoted from nealk77:

Oh, and I was unaware SB had Jokerz. I'll need to try it out. The last time I was at CP Pinball, there was a Jokerz in the back getting worked on. Sounds like this game is getting trendy (or simply just my wish that it goes up in value...).

Wow, looks like it is going to be great! I went years without seeing a Jokerz anywhere so having a few locally is a treat. Maybe not a good game for tournaments, but I think it is very fun.

2 weeks later
#395 18 days ago

Wondering if anyone has a high-resolution version of this logo? Looking to make a keychain - Out of stock everywhere online... and I can't find a high-res enough file to photoshop it!

keyring_-_jokerz_mop (resized).png
#396 18 days ago
Quoted from onujpt:

Wondering if anyone has a high-resolution version of this logo? Looking to make a keychain - Out of stock everywhere online... and I can't find a high-res enough file to photoshop it!
[quoted image]

It's not really high resolution and you will need to deal with the black background, but here it is; taken from a photo of my backglass. Certainly high-enough res for a keychain.

cardsonly1 (resized).jpg
#397 17 days ago

just sold mine. left the club. oldie but a goody

#398 17 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

It's not really high resolution and you will need to deal with the black background, but here it is; taken from a photo of my backglass. Certainly high-enough res for a keychain.
[quoted image]

Thank you so much for this. I’ll post a transparent version for anyone else that wants it once I remove the black background!

Appreciate it, Zee!

#399 16 days ago

For anyone interested, purchased this on Shutterfly as a keychain for $4.99! I'm uploading the plain logo, and the file I used for Shutterfly (this version needs to be a slightly bigger blank canvas around the logo).

Enjoy!

Untitled-2 (resized).pngjokerz-logo-final-png (resized).png
There are 399 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.

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