Quoted from ktownhero:Mind if I ask which specific LEDs you used? I'm debating whether to go with 2SMD, 1SMD or Comet's "retro" which is a dimmed 1SMD I believe.
2smd natural white frosted are my favorite.
(Topic ID: 127663)
Linked Games
Jokerz!
Williams, 1988
Topic Gallery
Tampa, FL
Hi all!
Experiencing an issue where when I lock a ball, it immediately kicks the ball back out and puts a new ball down the lane to play. If I manage to hit the ramp again, and then “lock” two balls it puts me in ‘Jokerz! Wild! Mode” and I can begin to play for the jackpot….
Any idea what would cause this? Or how to fix? :/
Anyone know the size of the tubular rivets for the upper playfield? Also, a good source to get them from?
I just picked up a Jokerz! I accidentally revered the 12vdc feed to the poker wheel board. It has stopped working. I can’t seem to find the wheel schematic in manual. Does anyone know of a poker wheel schematic available to download?
TIA.
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:I just picked up a Jokerz! I accidentally revered the 12vdc feed to the poker wheel board. It has stopped working. I can’t seem to find the wheel schematic in manual. Does anyone know of a poker wheel schematic available to download?
TIA.
It's my understanding that the Motor Control Board (D-12045) that was used in Jokerz was also used in Cyclone and Riverboat Gambler. Here's the schematic that I found for Cyclone so you should be able to use it!
JOKERZ WHEEL (resized).PNGJOKERZ WHEEL SCHEMATICS (resized).PNG
Quoted from onujpt:Hi all!
Experiencing an issue where when I lock a ball, it immediately kicks the ball back out and puts a new ball down the lane to play. If I manage to hit the ramp again, and then “lock” two balls it puts me in ‘Jokerz! Wild! Mode” and I can begin to play for the jackpot….
Any idea what would cause this? Or how to fix? :/
Check the diodes on the relevant switches. could be backfeed.
I used tiny little screws and bolts instead of rivets — it fit perfectly. I think they were M4
Quoted from meSz:Anyone know the size of the tubular rivets for the upper playfield? Also, a good source to get them from?
Quoted from meSz:Anyone know the size of the tubular rivets for the upper playfield? Also, a good source to get them from?
I also used screws and did a write-up on it 20 years ago:
https://www.videoengine.com/pins/jokerz/jokerzpix/level3/pix03.htm
https://www.videoengine.com/pins/jokerz/jokerzpix/level3/pix04.htm
Quoted from Morinack:Check the diodes on the relevant switches. could be backfeed.
Ended up having my tech guy come look at it and thinks it might be a bad board. But open to other thoughts.
No shorts on the board. All relays tested good. Bridge 2 was replaced, it was shorted. All relays were resoldered. Anyone have any other thoughts on the cause?
Quoted from onujpt:Ended up having my tech guy come look at it and thinks it might be a bad board. But open to other thoughts.
No shorts on the board. All relays tested good. Bridge 2 was replaced, it was shorted. All relays were resoldered. Anyone have any other thoughts on the cause?
I would focus on switch 46. check the diodes on 45 and 46. both switches need to be made for the solenoid to fire.
It sounds like the Lock 2 switch (46) is always on. Could be out of adjustment or the switch has failed.
Did this just start happening or always this way?
Pic barely shows the 2nd switch.
Screen Shot 2021-09-09 at 9.20.12 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-09-09 at 9.20.31 AM (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:I just picked up a Jokerz! I accidentally revered the 12vdc feed to the poker wheel board. It has stopped working. I can’t seem to find the wheel schematic in manual. Does anyone know of a poker wheel schematic available to download?
TIA.
Quoted from meSz:It's my understanding that the Motor Control Board (D-12045) that was used in Jokerz was also used in Cyclone and Riverboat Gambler. Here's the schematic that I found for Cyclone so you should be able to use it!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you for the schematic. I found some bad components (7805, LM339) replaced with new components, but I still get the err error in wheel test. Motor spins only counter clockwise and way too slow. Optic switch is working in switch test. Don’t really what to look at next. Any help would be appreciated. TIA
Odd, are you sure about polarity?
Wheel should only ever spin clockwise when looking at it.
Where/how did you reverse the 12VDC?
Is that the only location you worked on?
Quoted from Morinack:[quoted image][quoted image]
I accidentally reversed the 12vdc at the interconnect board connector 12 feed.
Also, The schematic doesn’t match the pin traces on my board for LM339. Schematic shows pins 5,6,
9, and 10 as connected. On board 6 is going to R6 and 5 has no trace. I’m confused with that for sure. Optic is working in switch test and during wheel test but wheel is very slow and display shows err error, Home switch which is opto 1 think, is working. Don’t know what err is relating to. Trying to figure out what voltage should be present at motor pins 1&2 and 5&6
Motor is a 9 Vdc motor and I’m getting only 7 volt to motor at pins 1&2 and 5&6. Not sure where problem could be.
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:I accidentally reversed the 12vdc at the interconnect board connector 12 feed.
Also, The schematic doesn’t match the pin traces on my board for LM339. Schematic shows pins 5,6,
9, and 10 as connected. On board 6 is going to R6 and 5 has no trace. I’m confused with that for sure. Optic is working in switch test and during wheel test but wheel is very slow and display shows err error, Home switch which is opto 1 think, is working. Don’t know what err is relating to. Trying to figure out what voltage should be present at motor pins 1&2 and 5&6
Motor is a 9 Vdc motor and I’m getting only 7 volt to motor at pins 1&2 and 5&6. Not sure where problem could be.
I believe the err is a homing issue. My test shows it briefly at the beginning of the test.
I'll take another look at what I have.
Quoted from Morinack:I believe the err is a homing issue. My test shows it briefly at the beginning of the test.
I'll take another look at what I have.
Here is a video of what I’m getting in wheel test
https://www.facebook.com/groups/609432482409545/permalink/4786371368048948/
I believe high speed is not coming on. low speed is normal but home seems to be an issue.
were you advancing the motor test manually or on auto?
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:Here is a video of what I’m getting in wheel test
https://www.facebook.com/groups/609432482409545/permalink/4786371368048948/
I am sending you a video of normal behavior in FB thread.
First it runs high speed(HS) then slows down. Looks like you are not getting the 12 volt to the motor for HS.
Is 12VDC making it to the motor board?
If not the problem lies back towards the Interconnect or Main board.
So in a simple test.
leads across 6 and 7 on P1 with machine on i get 12VDC (11.84 on my meter)
in wheel test mode (auto) across 4 and 7 or 5 and 7 i get 6VDC when activated.
I will pull the board to look over the traces you mentioned.
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:Here is a video of what I’m getting in wheel test
https://www.facebook.com/groups/609432482409545/permalink/4786371368048948/
i was able to somewhat simulate your symptom by un plugging J17 on interconnect.
pins J17-1 and J17-8 are P1-1 and P1-3 on the motor schematic.
Motor still spun at speed but gave me 256 err.
Make sure it is seated correctly on interconnect board.
Quoted from Morinack:i was able to somewhat simulate your symptom by un plugging J17 on interconnect.
pins J17-1 and J17-8 are P1-1 and P1-3 on the motor schematic.
Motor still spun at speed but gave me 256 err.
Make sure it is seated correctly on interconnect board.
Ok I’ll check that. Do you think this motor will work with Jokerz.
https://www.robotshop.com/en/rbsoy02-soyo-unipolar-stepper-motor.html
I think my motor is bad. I’m getting correct pulses from cpu transistors but only slow speed works.
Marco wants $69 ft it the motor. The above motor is $16
Quoted from WiZaRd15425:Ok I’ll check that. Do you think this motor will work
Honestly couldn't say.
Specs look right and hole pattern looks close in the PDF.
20210921_175125 (resized).jpg
Safety Bay
I've just been going through the backbox looking at the boards and have noticed this on the 4 wires going into the GI input on the Interconnect Board. These wires appear to come from the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet.
I do have a couple on GI lights out but I think they are just blown globes.
Has anyone go any ideas of what's going on there?
2 (resized).jpgIMG20210927194126 (resized).jpgQuoted from WestOz:I've just been going through the backbox looking at the boards and have noticed this on the 4 wires going into the GI input on the Interconnect Board. These wires appear to come from the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet.
I do have a couple on GI lights out but I think they are just blown globes.
Has anyone go any ideas of what's going on there?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like someone removed the IDC and soldered the wires directly to the driver board. That whole mess needs to be rebuilt.
Like Zee said.
The bare wire is to connect the first pin, then the wire is looped back to the same connector for a second pin.
Somebody bonded the pinouts on the board with solder.
Quoted from WestOz:Thanks guys. Does anyone have a picture of the IDC connected with the wiring setup?
Just happened to have the head open.
20210928_054240 (resized).jpg20210928_054302 (resized).jpgQuoted from WestOz:Thanks Morinack
Much appreciated
You’ll need to cut those yellow wires back a few inches to get some fresh wire. Should be plenty of slack in the loom to pull up.
The back of the interconnect board might be a bit toasty … check all the pads and traces are ok before installing the new Molex header.
I just repaired a board just like that - it was so toasted I had to run wires from the new header to their final destinations. From memory 4 traces are on the top of the board and 4 on the back.
rd
Quoted from rotordave:You’ll need to cut those yellow wires a few inches to get some fresh wire. Should be plenty of slack in the loom to pull up.
The back of the interconnect board might be a bit toasty … check all the pads and traces are ok.
I just did one - it was so toasted I had to run wires from the new plug to their final destinations. From memory 4 traces are on the top of the board and 4 on the back.
rd
The header pins are completely missing on his board, so there's extra work there to install new ones.
Quoted from Zee:The header pins are completely missing on his board, so there's extra work there to install new ones.
Yeah, that’s what my post is referring to.
Sorry if it wasn’t clear - I have clarified it.
rd
1 week later
Quoted from Morinack:I would focus on switch 46. check the diodes on 45 and 46. both switches need to be made for the solenoid to fire.
It sounds like the Lock 2 switch (46) is always on. Could be out of adjustment or the switch has failed.
Did this just start happening or always this way?
Pic barely shows the 2nd switch.
[quoted image][quoted image]
No luck. I should have added that in test mode, all of the A side coils were starting to fire randomly. Some would activate with others, the knocker was firing with everything on the A side. The ball would lock as it should, but as a new ball is put into the trough the locked ball fires out also.
My tech cleaned the board up and tested everything again, still no luck. He wants to send it out for repair - or find/buy a new or refurbished board. Anyone have any thoughts on this for someone who's not tech savvy to pins at all? lol - Anything new seems sold out online. He has a guy to send it to but is currently on a 3 month turnaround time. ugh.
Quoted from onujpt:No luck. I should have added that in test mode, all of the A side coils were starting to fire randomly. Some would activate with others, the knocker was firing with everything on the A side. The ball would lock as it should, but as a new ball is put into the trough the locked ball fires out also.
My tech cleaned the board up and tested everything again, still no luck. He wants to send it out for repair - or find/buy a new or refurbished board. Anyone have any thoughts on this for someone who's not tech savvy to pins at all? lol - Anything new seems sold out online. He has a guy to send it to but is currently on a 3 month turnaround time. ugh.
Contact John the owner.....they have excellent customer service
1 week later
Having just had my boards serviced I've put them back in and have lost the following aren't working...both flippers, both slingshots and the multiball kicker from the centre ramp.
Does anyone have any ideas what may be wrong? Are these all linked to the one circuit, fuse etc?
Could any Jokerz owners let me know the playfield length for this game? Is it still 20.25x42" or did Williams move to a 46" long playfield by this time?
1 week later
Quoted from A_Bord:Could any Jokerz owners let me know the playfield length for this game? Is it still 20.25x42" or did Williams move to a 46" long playfield by this time?
Just so happen to have my playfield out and measured it. Came to 20 1/8 x 42 1/4
Quoted from nealk77:Just so happen to have my playfield out and measured it. Came to 20 1/8 x 42 1/4
Thanks @nealk77. Routine work or are you working on a restore? Was just playing this game at Silver Ballroom last week.
Quoted from A_Bord:Thanks nealk77. Routine work or are you working on a restore? Was just playing this game at Silver Ballroom last week.
Complete restore. Changing everything from chrome to gold. New overlay, plastics, flippers, and pop bumpers. Basically turning it into a new machine.
I've been working on that middle ramp bridge deal for a week or two now. Created a new graphic and now looking for the right size clear plastic to use to go on top. I've spent way too many hours on this game, but it's been a great learning experience.
IMG_3394 (resized).jpgQuoted from nealk77:Complete restore. Changing everything from chrome to gold. New overlay, plastics, flippers, and pop bumpers. Basically turning it into a new machine.
I've been working on that middle ramp bridge deal for a week or two now. Created a new graphic and now looking for the right size clear plastic to use to go on top. I've spent way too many hours on this game, but it's been a great learning experience.
[quoted image]
Oh, and I was unaware SB had Jokerz. I'll need to try it out. The last time I was at CP Pinball, there was a Jokerz in the back getting worked on. Sounds like this game is getting trendy (or simply just my wish that it goes up in value...).
Quoted from nealk77:Oh, and I was unaware SB had Jokerz. I'll need to try it out. The last time I was at CP Pinball, there was a Jokerz in the back getting worked on. Sounds like this game is getting trendy (or simply just my wish that it goes up in value...).
Wow, looks like it is going to be great! I went years without seeing a Jokerz anywhere so having a few locally is a treat. Maybe not a good game for tournaments, but I think it is very fun.
2 weeks later
- Out of stock everywhere online... and I can't find a high-res enough file to photoshop it!
Quoted from onujpt:Wondering if anyone has a high-resolution version of this logo? Looking to make a keychain - Out of stock everywhere online... and I can't find a high-res enough file to photoshop it!
[quoted image]
It's not really high resolution and you will need to deal with the black background, but here it is; taken from a photo of my backglass. Certainly high-enough res for a keychain.
cardsonly1 (resized).jpgQuoted from Zee:It's not really high resolution and you will need to deal with the black background, but here it is; taken from a photo of my backglass. Certainly high-enough res for a keychain.
[quoted image]
Thank you so much for this. I’ll post a transparent version for anyone else that wants it once I remove the black background!
Appreciate it, @zee!
1 month later
I recently replaced my Jokerz plastics and now have no use for the old ones. I'd hate to throw them away. Anyone want them? All I'd ask for is whatever it costs me to mail it off. Send me a message if interested.
FYI, the plastics are a little yellow'ish, which is noticeable on the clear parts.
IMG_3638 (002) (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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