I quit taking them out of Jokerz when every one of them broke. Craziness.

I’ve shopped dozens of Sys11s.

I just treat those posts as disposable. 50/50 they snap off, or spin the T Nut. If they play up, I just cut them off and replace them.

Pays to have a stash of posts and T nuts on hand.

rd

Most of this was answered by ThatOneDude already. You can also get T-nuts at hardware stores or sources like zoro.com. If doing a rebuild i assume you have the PF out and on a bench or rotisserie. If so, clampo the post with vise grips (you can destroy the plastic bumper as it likely needs replacing) and drill it out from the bottom. Try to avoid increasing the PF hole size or the new post will wobble. You can get new metal posts and plastic bumpers from most suppliers. With the T-nut spinning, you may need to rebuild the wood with resin or a composite where it inserts prior to installing a new T-nut. What i have done in the past is where possible, use a longer post and put a nut and washer on the bottom side if the PF is too damaged.

On my Jokerz, I snapped probably 70% of the T-Nut'd posts. (blame the Loctite doing it's job.)
They were all 6-32 T-Nuts and post screws.

At first, I bought a 25-pack of 6-32 T-Nuts from Menards Hardware, and I could not get them to fit in the existing holes. So I ordered a dozen from PBL, but those would not fit either.

I ended up using same size drill bit and gently reeming out each existing T-Net hole from the bottom of the playfield. I was then able to tap in the T-Nuts into the bottom.

And yeah, for the ones that spun, I ended up Dremel cutting off the tops (the jewel posts were pretty trashed anyway), and pushing the cut-off posts w/t-nut out from the top.

Thanks so much everyone for all the feedback. I went ahead and used my Sawzall on the remaining ones. Sure I could have used the Dremel, but I was already over the top frustrated with these things......might as well enjoy destroying 'em. Luckily playfield was not harmed!
I was wondering....is there an advantage in using the t-nuts vs. a simple nut and washer?

Included a photo of my lovely cabinet. That's going to be a fun one to redo. Already have the cabinet art ready to go.....but may need some bondo first....

Lastly, the former owner(s) decided to do a lot of straight soldering to the boards. Why Why Why? My Pinbot (next on the list) is the same way too. Looking forward to making a lot of new connectors......ugh...

IMG_2211 (resized).jpg

IMG_2879 (002) (resized).jpg

I get my connectors and inserts (Molex / IDC) from Mouser.com. Biggest challenge is looking for the right parts. Once you know what you are looking for and save the P/N it is the cheapest path.

Like these.

20210715_105322 (resized).jpg

Pinball life have the original style push on type, and the tool.

I use those. Looks original and will last forever in a home use situation. Hey - they lasted 20 years running all the time in an arcade.

I bought one of these Molex kits yeeears ago, topped it up many many times. And gone through a few of the tools too. Pretty much all Sys11s will need at least the GI plugs replaced.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=umick

rd

A couple years ago, I went bonkers on Great Plains' website and bought way too many types of connectors. Luckily it gave me a good collection of material. I've built a handful of new connectors so far and no issues at all.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35

Picked up a Jokerz a couple of months ago. Had some work to do on it. The owner didn’t know the backglass could come off and when I asked her if she changed her batteries, she said it doesn’t run on batteries - it plugs into the wall……… anyway, the very corroded batteries came off and I’ve been working on it for a few weeks. Just changed out the upper playfield. I didn’t realize the switches were all rivets - so that was a fun surprise. I ended up using M2 screws to replace as I was sure as soon as I riveted the switches back in, they would fail. Pretty happy with the swap. Great prices at pinball inc.

1621A393-DAD0-4C1A-988F-193B983D3084 (resized).jpeg

BDC096BB-1321-4DE7-B3A8-7C1D3446ADF2 (resized).jpeg

Just listed my Jokerz! FS on FB. Looking for $3295. It is S/N: 2
Lots of new bits and a very clean PF.

20210715_083918(0) (resized).jpg

Looking for a few plastic if anyone has some used ones laying around.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtd-jokerz-plastic-parts-#post-6404406

23CE0B6C-DD8C-4E7B-AB31-A71A77DE3427 (resized).jpeg

29B4B3B2-404A-428D-B8D3-21343A5A7348 (resized).jpeg

UPDATE: Found this one
3CE81706-76E7-4F8B-BC74-3F1A52B8D163 (resized).jpeg

Sanded my playfield down. I cannot for the life of me get the blue inserts at the bottom looking nice. Planning to clear coat then do an overlay and clear coat again. Anyone think it's worth replacing these with new ones? When I put Naphtha on them, they look ok, but you can still see some of the white streaks.

Also, my ramp in the middle is severely cracked up. Anyone ever attempted to swap out the plastic on it? Those rivets look like a mess to go through. I already replaced the top plastic with all the rivets last year and don't ever want to experience that rivet fun again!

IMG_2915 (resized).jpg

I have the new ramps available as complete assemblies now if you don't want to rivet. Both sides and the middle. The store is closed for vacation until August 1st though. https://rampomatic.com/products/williams-jokerz-center-ramp-03-8195?_pos=5&_sid=33c13683d&_ss=r

JodyG you ever consider a package deal on all three ramps?

Separate subject, still in search of a right plastic for slingshot.

Can someone confirm for me the length of the standoff post that the 'DOUBLE YOUR SCORE' plastic is attached too? The machine I am working on doesn't have this plastic piece so I am going to order it but need to know the size of the screws and the plastic post.

On mine, the left two, that were screwed in, are 11/32". And the free-hanging right ones are 9/16".
And I'd say the screws are a #6-32x3/4" and a #8-32x3/4".

IMG_20210727_174546 (resized).jpg

Brilliant.....thank you!

Still looking for right slingshot plastic if anyone has an extra!

Long time follow up... Been sitting on this for a couple years. Finally finished up the bulk of the white and decided to lock in my work with a light coat of SprayMax 2K clear. I am intentionally leaving some of the worn look in places. I have a center decal for the white section but since the inserts are still original and look good I am probably just going to touch up the white and skip the decal.

I have the new ramps on the way and I'm almost ready to get this bad boy all back together. Really looking forward to it!

What are people's thoughts on LEDs for this game? Should I bother doing colors or just get a big pack of Comet sunlight LEDs and go with those?
PXL_20210804_132428434 (resized).jpg

This looks awesome.

I have my Jokerz! listed for sale on Pinside with pics of what LEDs look like. It's a mix of types like sunlight frosted and various colors.
I did decide to revert the UPF cards to incandescent. The LEDs were blinding no matter what i did. Just the dome lights that light up the skill shot, not the lit cards.
It should give you an idea of LED usage and if it is what you are looking for.
With new white paint under the plastics, it's probably going to end up pretty bright no matter what you pick.

Mind if I ask which specific LEDs you used? I'm debating whether to go with 2SMD, 1SMD or Comet's "retro" which is a dimmed 1SMD I believe.

do you have the upper center ramp with the new decal applied jody?

I do not, but Planetary Pinball does have them the last time I checked. That is an injection molded part, which is why it gets so much more yellow than a traditional vacuum formed ramp.

Love mine with leds... it is bright, but not blinding.

NM

Its been a while, but if I recall I ordered the "LED kit" from Marco way back when.
Turned out the LEDs were too bright in some places and missing in others. (not happy)

I ended up refitting many with a mix of Comet LEDs.
The sunlight frosted became a favorite. I prefer them over the warm for a lot of locations.
I would say the ones i changed were replaced with the 2SMD.

I am still in search of a right slingshot plastic.

On a comical note, I did have someone reach out to me and offer to sell me one for 100$

Sorry, I realized I linked the wrong side sling.

I need to strip mine down to fix the playfield protector soon, so I could try to scan in the plastics. Then, you could have it printed and make a plastic, like I did for dracula.

Appreciate the offer and PM me when you get to that point. How/where did you get the Dracula printed at? How did they turn out? I have never seen someone do this so interested in seeing how things were done.

I will continue searching for a used one till then!

I scanned in the original. Since I was creating a brick pattern, I had my son design a new image. I had it printed at the local FedEx print shop on the glossiest regular weight paper. Then, I used 3m double sided adhesive to apply it to some polycarbonate I got from home depot. I used a dremel with a cutting bit, a small sander and files to shape it, and sprayed the back with several layers of spray can clear coat.

20210620_165017 (resized).jpg

20210620_171958 (resized).jpg

20210620_184834 (resized).jpg

I have used slings.....can you assemble my game back together....

20210807_131636 (resized).jpg

20210807_131654 (resized).jpg

You looking to sale the used slings? If so PM me.

If I were closer be glad to help ya with reassembling your playfield but obviously it’s not feasible since I’m in CA

I purchased new CPR plastics set. Sending you a PM.

Joined the club today, wont receive the game for about two weeks, im going to order new plastics, upper playfield, backglass and ramps but im having problems trying to find the upper playfield decal, does anyone know where i can purchase this from. also does anyone make the backglass for this game?
cheers
Trevor

You are looking for a translite not a BG.

Also if you are careful you can pull the existing decal from the original UPF with freon.
(Been there done that)

In case anyone is looking for pf parts...

Screenshot_20210814-172417_Chrome.jpg

just put comet sunlights in mine, looks great as usual

Do you have the link for this?
cheers

PM sent.

https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/254021796542562?media_id=0&ref=share_attachment

I had sent the seller a few messages asking for parts and never received a reply. Just FYI

Ditto.

Pinball inc has them

Hi all, I have a soft spot for Jokerz! since it was my first game restoration. You might have seen my old web pages on this from back in 2000:

https://www.videoengine.com/pins/jokerz/jokerzmain.htm

I'm sorry I let that machine go; I can only enjoy it in a simulation now. I wonder how many of them survive...never seen one out on location.

Asking a favor. I need the exact width dimension for the Jokerz! backbox, (my contractor needs it) and I'm getting mixed results from different sources. Mine's in storage, boxed/wrapped and currently inaccessible. Thanks in advance.

OD is 28 3/4" x 28 3/4"

The sides are tapered 9 1/4" at the top 7 7/16" at the bottom

Thank you meSz. That's what I needed!

1smd, 2smd or retro?

I converted my pop caps to blue, and used cool white. I think it is better looking than the more red look. I also used a blue LED display.