(Topic ID: 127663)

Jokerz! Club. Quiet! We are playing.

By oohlou

9 years ago


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  • 544 posts
  • 106 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by HighSpeed1
  • Topic is favorited by 53 Pinsiders

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There are 544 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 9 months ago
Quoted from boscokid:

Whelp - was able to use a couple pics in 10y Jokerz! sound issue threads to confirm the positioning of those two caps - sadly this did not fix my issue

What's the sound boards issue?

#502 9 months ago

Same question I had.

#503 9 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Finally got around to installing art blades for this game that I've had for many months. The game now fits nicely next to two of my other SS's. They add to the colorful appeal. I had to devise a way to lift the playfield up using a "sky hook": clearance between the PF edges and the pivot posts and hinges was way too restrictive for me. It was the only option besides removing the PF with 6 billion connectors that need to go with it. (The riskiest part of that is getting the reassembly routings and reconnections correct.) This may not be best for everyone but worked great for me. I have another set of blades on order for my SW so once that's complete, I can remove the ceiling hook and patch/paint the little hole. Or not.

Looking good. How are your ramp flap looking? Do you have something under it? I have seen many pictures on ramp flaps but none like yours, yours could explain why mine looks like this, or help to fix mine up a bit... is my ramp flap too short? Yours seems longer. Maybe should change mine.
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#504 9 months ago

I don't have a close-up pic handy, but... I cut and fit a second flap of blue steel and secured it with micro-thin double-sided 3M tape to cover and protect the damaged PF area from further scraping/paint loss. You lose the very tips of the "Royal fingers" this way, but it provides a smooth, safe sliding path back and forth for the moving flap above it. I also made a new lift ramp out of 1/4" lexan to better withstand the beating that assembly takes. It was a real project, but it works great.

#505 9 months ago
Quoted from Electronmagic:

What's the sound boards issue?

Quoted from fixintoplay:

Same question I had.

Sorry guys - just saw these posts. Here is my original post asking for help showing what had been done so far.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jokerz-very-low-volume-speech-and-no-music-#post-5620653

After recapping the soundboard the strength of 'let the game begin' is probably better as it had a slight speech warbling before which appears to be gone HOWEVER all other issues are still present(ie strong voice, then 'deal me in' sometimes very very faint and sometimes at full volume)

Music test - nothing

Sound test - it cycles thru and plays each sound but its barely audible

When you first power on the game after booting it gives one clear tone (according to the manual this tests the audio board and 1 tone = system Ok)

System 11B games have a test button on the CPU. Pressing this gives 1 low tone that lasts about 2s then 1 higher tone that lasts about 3s which just repeats. If I run this same test on my Police Force it has the exact same behavior so I take these 2 clear distinct tones to mean the CVSD & DAC both passed test

Sometimes when it first boots up I have the Press Advance message and after Advance it tells us 'Music Failure' not sure exactly what we can take from this other than the CPU knows its not playing the music so it cant really be a post soundboard - pre speaker issue.

Obviously when I tested a new CPU I reused the game ROMs so that is really the only easily swapped out item left - I ordered a new set of speech/music ROMs but kinda doubt this solves my issues as it may be the reason for No Music but really wouldnt explain intermittent low volume (yes the system volume is turned up close to max)

Anybody have other ideas I can check/test?

#506 9 months ago

Did you replace the volume potentiometer?

#507 9 months ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Did you replace the volume potentiometer?

Great question. I did replace it at some point but the game had worked fine after so never really considered it as a problem spot for this issue BUT when I look today there is the audio in & audio out wires with the 3rd prong of the pot not attached to anything. Schematic says its supposed to be a 'shield' wire there but there was no wire when I replaced the pot and there does not appear to be any unused wires in the cabinet.

Can somebody post of a picture of their Jokerz! volume potentiometer with associated wiring please - my Police Force has a 3 wire bundle with what appears to be a ground that is attached to the pot with a small resistor but the Jokerz! set up seems different.

****edit - found a picture of the volume pot previously posted by fixintoplay and it looks the same as mine so likely not an issue
volume pot (resized).jpgvolume pot (resized).jpg

#508 9 months ago

Found this thread about limiting volume for system 11s - looks like Williams may have installed this fix after Jokerz! I did try an alligator clip from the unused prong on the pot to ground and no change for my issue

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-volume-pot-value-game-too-loud

#509 9 months ago

Sounds like ROMs are the last best bet, if a CPU swap isn't fixing it.

1 week later
#510 9 months ago

So I'm getting ready to dis-assemble to upper half of the playfield on my jokerz. I want to swap the bulbs up there for LED's, replace the rubbers, and, most importantly, I have to address the kick-out hole up there. Usually when it kicks the ball out, it bounces right back in. Sometimes it takes a dozen attempts to get that ball back into play. So any advice on the process and fixing that hole? I assume for dis-assembly I'm going to have to remove the wire frame and all three ramps (two sides and center) before I can remove the upper-playfield? And for the hole I was thinking I need to clean all around there and maybe tighten/re-allign/bend back some of the metal guides surrounding that hole? Any other advice/suggestions?

thanks in advance!

#511 9 months ago

Just bought a jokerz, and i noticed my 4x is blinking on game start. Is this a setting, normal, or do i have an issue? I looked at 2 videos and both had 5x blinking, so i think its normal, but why is mine 4x?

#512 9 months ago
Quoted from JakeFAttie:

So I'm getting ready to dis-assemble to upper half of the playfield on my jokerz. I want to swap the bulbs up there for LED's, replace the rubbers, and, most importantly, I have to address the kick-out hole up there. Usually when it kicks the ball out, it bounces right back in. Sometimes it takes a dozen attempts to get that ball back into play. So any advice on the process and fixing that hole? I assume for dis-assembly I'm going to have to remove the wire frame and all three ramps (two sides and center) before I can remove the upper-playfield? And for the hole I was thinking I need to clean all around there and maybe tighten/re-allign/bend back some of the metal guides surrounding that hole? Any other advice/suggestions?
thanks in advance!

I've had this same issue since I've owned this pin. Tried everything but nothing works. Experiment with solutions, and if you come up with a possible fix, let us know.

#513 9 months ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

Just bought a jokerz, and i noticed my 4x is blinking on game start. Is this a setting, normal, or do i have an issue? I looked at 2 videos and both had 5x blinking, so i think its normal, but why is mine 4x?

That just determines when extra ball is awarded. 4x is normal and it advances to higher numbers for subsequent extra balls.

There may be a setting to make EB harder but default is definitely 4x

#514 9 months ago

Ok, that is what i was thinking, but thanks for confirming it for me

#515 9 months ago
Quoted from JakeFAttie:

So I'm getting ready to dis-assemble to upper half of the playfield on my jokerz. I want to swap the bulbs up there for LED's, replace the rubbers, and, most importantly, I have to address the kick-out hole up there. Usually when it kicks the ball out, it bounces right back in. Sometimes it takes a dozen attempts to get that ball back into play. So any advice on the process and fixing that hole? I assume for dis-assembly I'm going to have to remove the wire frame and all three ramps (two sides and center) before I can remove the upper-playfield? And for the hole I was thinking I need to clean all around there and maybe tighten/re-allign/bend back some of the metal guides surrounding that hole? Any other advice/suggestions?
thanks in advance!

Make sure the kicker arm tight and is "aimed" correctly and that the wire gate is not jammed (or installed backward). See photos...

tl (resized).jpgtl (resized).jpgtlcu (resized).jpgtlcu (resized).jpgtlmid (resized).jpgtlmid (resized).jpg
#516 9 months ago
Quoted from JakeFAttie:

I have to address the kick-out hole up there. Usually when it kicks the ball out, it bounces right back Any other advice/suggestions?
thanks in advance!

As far as your kick out hole on underside of playfield remove kicker mounting screws and fill holes by snapping tooth picks or wood splinters to fill screw holes. Remount this should sturdy up mounting from any movement.

1 month later
#517 7 months ago

Since my Jokerz is all functional (for the time being) I started playing with some lights. 24E49944-C66E-4942-B79F-25405CFF6AB0 (resized).jpeg24E49944-C66E-4942-B79F-25405CFF6AB0 (resized).jpeg91DF1072-F2D3-4333-9D13-08F15E0031F4 (resized).jpeg91DF1072-F2D3-4333-9D13-08F15E0031F4 (resized).jpeg

Does anybody have a picture of a playfield in mostly blue?

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#518 7 months ago

Well that's cool. I always wanted to design some kind of small castle structure mod around the center ramp/draw bridge but I've never had time and never got that 3d printer I wanted.

#519 7 months ago

Yeah something around the center ramp would be cool!

I’m also trying to rig up some smaller spotlights for the king and queen. I’m tapping into the 12v at the drop targets to expand my options.

1 week later
#520 7 months ago

Just posting my notes and pics for so many plagued with a misbehaving draw poker K/O hole. Every machine is different, but this worked for me so maybe someone can benefit. This was slow, progressive, one fix at a time, then test play. My under-playfield looked OK, but it had hidden problems. Some were mentioned in previous posts: new coil sleeve, fill bracket holes with wood/glue, etc. Tough area to work in.

Disassembly and inspection: This device has been hammered thru 100,000 cycles over 45+ years. The mounting bracket had a 15 degree bend which I straightened to 90. It's a wonder it worked at all.

Swapped the old worn saucer with a new extra one I had. Filled screw holes with toothpicks and wood glue.

Overhauled the coil assembly with new sleeve and mounted everything before wood glue dried. Test played. Moderate improvement, but still unacceptable. Had to trying something new.

The upper playfield had to be partially removed for these next steps, several times. Yeah, PITA. Remove the 3 machine screws and nylock nut holding it down to enable sliding over to the left gently. Notice I tried adding a felt pad in the K/O hole floor to help lift the ball out. Bad idea, so I removed it. Compare the last 2 pics: they show an "elbow" in the back guard rail. This was suspect to me so I bent it 12 degrees inward as shown to smooth the ball's exit path. This was the last fix before my final test play and maybe the key. It's 90+% success out of that 'effin hole. Is 100% possible? Maybe. I'm happy with this.
jokerz1 (resized).jpgjokerz1 (resized).jpgjokerz2 (resized).jpgjokerz2 (resized).jpgjokerz3 (resized).jpgjokerz3 (resized).jpgjokerz4 (resized).jpgjokerz4 (resized).jpgjokerz5 (resized).jpgjokerz5 (resized).jpgjokerz6 (resized).jpgjokerz6 (resized).jpgjokerz7 (resized).jpgjokerz7 (resized).jpgjokerz8 (resized).jpgjokerz8 (resized).jpg

#521 7 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Just posting my notes and pics for so many plagued with a misbehaving draw poker K/O hole.

Thanks man! very useful information! can't wait to try follow this path on mine.

quick question, I notice your saucer only has three screws in it? Is this how it's suppose to be? mine also only has three, but I figured one fell out along the way...

#522 7 months ago
Quoted from JakeFAttie:

Thanks man! very useful information! can't wait to try follow this path on mine.
quick question, I notice your saucer only has three screws in it? Is this how it's suppose to be? mine also only has three, but I figured one fell out along the way...

Only 3 screws here too.
(maybe to give the kickout arm that tiny bit more clearance?)

#523 7 months ago

I think that may be due to an assembly and/or repair issue -- inaccessible -- and not really needed. Side note: the bend in that back guard rail determines the path of the ball, so take it as trial and error. Mine needed adjustment since I posted the notes! Good luck.

#524 7 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I think that may be due to an assembly and/or repair issue -- inaccessible -- and not really needed. Side note: the bend in that back guard rail determines the path of the ball, so take it as trial and error. Mine needed slight adjustment since I posted the notes! Good luck.

1 week later
#525 7 months ago

Tweak update. After more games, I was seeing more like 10-20% bounce-backs into the hole. I had previously shaved an angle along that blue backing rubber's left side, so I removed and repositioned it closer the left edge of it's metal mounting plate. Now it's 100% working after more than 12 games. Have patience. Hope it helps somebody.

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1 week later
#526 6 months ago

Hi! If anyone has replaced plastics or has any spares, I am looking for this one particular plastic , sits above the ramp shot to keep ball from flying off
Lemme know what you got! A scan or even a photocopy I could cut one if needed

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#527 6 months ago

These are the scans for that piece of plastic.
PDF = scans
JPG = Size in Centimeters.
Hope this helps

Jokerz formaat.jpgJokerz formaat.jpgJokerzplastic.pdfJokerzplastic.pdf
1 week later
#528 6 months ago

Here's one that I made up to get cut a couple of years ago.

I can send you through the .dxf file that can be used.

Jokerz Plastic (resized).jpgJokerz Plastic (resized).jpg
#529 6 months ago

Having a bit of difficulty finding the wiring for the GI relay on the backbox. Could someone snap a quick pic of the wires for the 7 pinn connector?

Mine was burned up and I'm going to redo the connector that was long ago hacked by some operator.

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#530 6 months ago

This should help. Looks like brown, green, empty, tan, green, empty, empty then red, brown w/red stripe.

Let me know if you need any of these traced back farther than the wire bundle on the backboard

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#531 6 months ago

That's perfect. I was able to find the other end on the Interconnect in the schematics, but the relay was eluding me.

Thanks!

#532 6 months ago

Thanks for the assistance, I was able to get this one fully playing again. Rubber, LEDs, and a fresh new upper playfield are on the way! The before and after on Jokers is always great.

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#533 6 months ago

Best is to use this molex connector for both in backbox and under playfield.
It's getting to hot for the original connector. Have done mine a few months ago.

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#534 6 months ago
Quoted from Donysius:

Best is to use this molex connector for both in backbox and under playfield.
It's getting to hot for the original connector. Have done mine a few months ago.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Good approach to a nagging problem. Thanks. Hadn't seen this before. I plan to replace all suspect IDC connectors with these.

1 week later
#535 5 months ago

Just a couple of pics as I get the new Jokerz upper playfield installed. Money well spent. The difference is astonishing!

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#536 5 months ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Just a couple of pics as I get the new Jokerz upper playfield installed. Money well spent. The difference is astonishing![quoted image][quoted image]

Shows what smoking, old age and excessive heat can do to you. They don't even look like the same part. Question: are those 10 white plastic rivets between the outlanes that hold the decal in place? They look good compared to the metal rivets. I custom-fit flat head screws for mine to avoid rivets.

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#537 5 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Shows what smoking, old age and excessive heat can do to you. They don't even look like the same part. Question: are those 10 white plastic rivets between the outlanes that hold the decal in place? They look good compared to the metal rivets. I custom-fit flat head screws for mine to avoid rivets.
[quoted image]

I just like them because of the ease of use. They take 2 seconds and snap right in. Here's a link if anyone needs some. Push in Rivet, Keyhole, 1/8 in, PK25 https://a.co/d/cevmi1w

I think the whole swap took me 2 hours start to finish including the time it took to clean the adhesive off of the decal underneath. In my experience, the hardest part of the whole deal is getting the playfield up off the support hangers to access the back. Jokerz is just a bit more tricky than most because theres a mech in the way.

#538 5 months ago

Just about finished with this one. Mylar was still in nice shape so I decided not to pull it off. Full rubber and comet sunlight LEDs. Just a few more LEDs under the inserts and it will be finished.

3 months later
#539 81 days ago

Moved to another thread.

#540 81 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Is there a way to crank down the intensity of the backbox lighting? I just moved my comic edition from another room into the lineup with my other machines and the comparison is now blatantly obvious. Cold, harsh, overpowering brightness which I realize now casts a hard reflection on the top playfield glass surface which, in turn, obscures the view of much of the playfield. The condition is worse with the room lights off. If there's no way to control the intensity, I'm considering turning it off altogether. Any suggestions? Is this a question for tech support? Thanks.

What type of bulbs are in there? Regular incandescent bulbs are fine for the backbox. You can always just remove a few to your liking. If that doesn't help then get a piece of non-reflective glass for the playfield.

1 week later
#541 71 days ago

looking to sell or trade my nice jokerz! (in nor cal)

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/176535

#542 66 days ago

I took down my ad last night and instead spent 5 hours disassemling cleaning and replacing bulbs and rubbers on the upper half of the playfield! Difinitely the most complex action I've performed on a pin. very satisfying. I doubt it had ever been done on my machine. Wasn't sure I'd be able to put it all back together, but low and behold, IT PLAYS SO SWEET NOW. I think many of the issues I was having were just from a couple loose screws and bad rubbers. . Anyway, afterwards I ordered about $100 worth of parts for it and I'll be keeping and working on her for at least another few months. Maybe I'll just keep her.

I found I was actually missing one plastic (at the top of the right ramp) which is why the ball kept hitting the glass! In looking on-line I saw this set of plastics for Jokerz and I'm confused about all the clown faces in the middle of the picture... what are those? key chains? they're not on the machine, right?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1006-567

#543 65 days ago

Yes those are keychains.

1 month later
#544 27 days ago

Promo plastics, speaker plastics, and key chains. I scored the entire NOS set years ago and framed them.
PromoPlastic4 (resized).JPGPromoPlastic4 (resized).JPG

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