(Topic ID: 157710)

Jokerz adjust failure


By msadan

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by johnwartjr
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Got a Jokerz in from a customer who had just installed LEDs in the game. Before the LEDs it was working fine, now it gets the "ADJUST FAILURE" message. I'm not sure how the two could possibly be related but I'm not a big believer in coincidences. Anyway batteries are good so I tried to do a factory reset. I get to the factory reset setting, choose yes, then boom ADJUST FAILURE again. I would think that even if there was a problem with the batteries / battery holder / related circuit that I should still be able to do a factory reset, it would just be lost after cycling the power. I should also mention that as I was cycling through the settings I couldn't change most of them; the credit button did nothing. Not sure if that's relevant but it's definitely not normal.
Next step was to replace U25 with a 6116 version anyPin NVRAM that I had laying around. No help, exact same symptoms with the anyPin. So basically I'm seeing the ADJUST FAILURE message on power up and again as soon as the game tries to write to U25. Any ideas where to look next?

#2 3 years ago

Quick update, pressing the test button on the CPU board gets a MEM.PROT.FAILURE message, whether the coin door is open or closed.

#3 3 years ago

Is the coin door memory protect switch by chance stuck closed? Can you test it with a meter and confirm it is working correctly?

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Is the coin door memory protect switch by chance stuck closed? Can you test it with a meter and confirm it is working correctly?

This is what I'm thinking as well. Something isn't allowing writes to the RAM.

Ensure J114 is connected properly and no evidence of battery leakage damage in the area. Remove J114 from the board and try again.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

This is what I'm thinking as well. Something isn't allowing writes to the RAM.
Ensure J114 is connected properly and no evidence of battery leakage damage in the area. Remove J114 from the board and try again.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

I tested the coin door switch last night and it tested good. I'll try it with the connector removed today. I'll also check that area for damage. When I had the board out last night I checked the battery holder and surrounding area and there was no evidence of any leakage / damage, it looked like new.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from msadan:

I tested the coin door switch last night and it tested good. I'll try it with the connector removed today. I'll also check that area for damage. When I had the board out last night I checked the battery holder and surrounding area and there was no evidence of any leakage / damage, it looked like new.

I just tried hitting the CPU test button with the J14 connector removed, no change, still getting the MEM.PROT.FAILURE message. I pulled the board out to check the back, no signs of damage or corrosion around the connector. Put a meter across the two terminals on J14 that go to the memory protect switch (pins 1 & 2) and I'm seeing about 600Ω. Unfortunately I don't have another System 11 game around to compare it to but I checked the same thing on an old System 9 board and it shows about 5KΩ. Not sure if that's significant.

#7 3 years ago

with the board removed, and the batteries installed, do you have 4.5 volts?

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from scott_freeman:

with the board removed, and the batteries installed, do you have 4.5 volts?

I replaced the 6116 at U25 with NVRAM so the batteries are now out of the game.

#9 3 years ago

And you're absolutely sure your soldering job on the socket is good? No pulled traces or pads?

#10 3 years ago

check the connectors for the batteries to the MPU board. check the connectors in between the batteries as well.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from surfsled:

check the connectors for the batteries to the MPU board. check the connectors in between the batteries as well.

There are no batteries involved here, it's a NVRAM

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

And you're absolutely sure your soldering job on the socket is good? No pulled traces or pads?

I'm about 99.9% sure. I didn't have any issues removing the old chip, and I just checked continuity for the new socket's pins as well as I could - the traces that I could see going from the pins to nearby pads on the board all tested good, and the ones that I couldn't see where they were going each had continuity with a pin on the adjacent IC. I don't know for sure that the NVRAM is good but I have no reason to believe that it isn't. I wish I had a spare 6116 around to stick in there but I don't.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

And you're absolutely sure your soldering job on the socket is good? No pulled traces or pads?

Hey John I've got a couple of 6116s ordered. The original chip was a MB8417 and I think the 6116 should be a direct replacement. I'm going to try one and see if it makes a difference, if not I'd like to send this board to you and have you work your magic on it. I'm out of ideas at this point.

#14 3 years ago

One thing I also thought about - if the AnyPin has DIP switches, you may need to set them to 6116. I'm not sure if the game would work if the DIPs were set incorrectly.

#15 3 years ago

Yes the anyPin would definitely need to be set to 6116, or the CPU jumpered for 6264. Since the board is booting though, anyPin settings are correct.

This isn't an anyPin issue, the CPU is showing the same issue as before the anyPin install. So also not likely a soldering issue.

The CPU memory protect circuitry is likely bad.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

One thing I also thought about - if the AnyPin has DIP switches, you may need to set them to 6116. I'm not sure if the game would work if the DIPs were set incorrectly.

The anyPin NVRAM is the 6116/6264 version, and it does have the DIP switches set for 6116.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Yes the anyPin would definitely need to be set to 6116, or the CPU jumpered for 6264. Since the board is booting though, anyPin settings are correct.
This isn't an anyPin issue, the CPU is showing the same issue as before the anyPin install. So also not likely a soldering issue.
The CPU memory protect circuitry is likely bad.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

I'm guessing the memory protect circuit is fairly simple if it's similar to the earlier Williams boards. Is this something that I could just shotgun if it's just a few parts?

3 weeks later
#18 3 years ago

Just to update a thread with a resolution - U36-11 was shorted to ground. This is the 7404 that is connected directly to the coin door switches. Perhaps solenoid voltage was shorted through the switches during the LED replacement.

New 7404 at U36 and the game is back in business.

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